1988 Toyota 4Runner Starter Issue
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1988 Toyota 4Runner Starter Issue
I am so frustrated right now I am ready to scrap this thing and buy a Chevy! Okay, not really, but I have tried everything and I am at my whits end.
1988 4Runner, Manual Transmission, 22re. I have worked for months to get this thing running and make it all like new under the hood and I am finaly 100% done and ready to start my 22re for the first time and I CAN NOT get the starter to engage the flywheel.
I have removed the starter several times, taken it apart, tested it, checked cable voltage on both cables and bypassed the ignition altogether. I have searched here and elswhere and even asked questions here. I have tried all the normal starter suggestions--everything is as it should be where the starter is concerned.
Now I have a fresh remanufactured Toyota starter ($100) and it does the same thing as my old starter.
Problem is the start just clicks. The solenoid is trying to engage but it is as though the teeth on the flywheel and starter will not mesh. I have tried rotating the engine to try and allow things to line up while I try to engage the starter with a bypass wire.
I just don't understand what could be wrong at this point. The only thing I can think of is that I have the wrong flywheel. I got a replacement from Carquest. I am pretty sure I mathced it up to the old one perfectly (but I do not have pics to verify)--it bolted to the crank and the clutch bolted to it. It seems right.
Sorry for the rant but I don't know what else to do and I am desperate to get this thing started. Can anyone help???
1988 4Runner, Manual Transmission, 22re. I have worked for months to get this thing running and make it all like new under the hood and I am finaly 100% done and ready to start my 22re for the first time and I CAN NOT get the starter to engage the flywheel.
I have removed the starter several times, taken it apart, tested it, checked cable voltage on both cables and bypassed the ignition altogether. I have searched here and elswhere and even asked questions here. I have tried all the normal starter suggestions--everything is as it should be where the starter is concerned.
Now I have a fresh remanufactured Toyota starter ($100) and it does the same thing as my old starter.
Problem is the start just clicks. The solenoid is trying to engage but it is as though the teeth on the flywheel and starter will not mesh. I have tried rotating the engine to try and allow things to line up while I try to engage the starter with a bypass wire.
I just don't understand what could be wrong at this point. The only thing I can think of is that I have the wrong flywheel. I got a replacement from Carquest. I am pretty sure I mathced it up to the old one perfectly (but I do not have pics to verify)--it bolted to the crank and the clutch bolted to it. It seems right.
Sorry for the rant but I don't know what else to do and I am desperate to get this thing started. Can anyone help???
Last edited by MortonPhotographic; 07-06-2011 at 03:05 PM.
#2
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Try this simple test:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
Important is that is must be done in the vehicle and the voltage measured under load. If that voltage is not within 0.5 volts of the battery, look into why. Without full voltage (which produces full current), you won't have the full pull of the solenoid magnetic coil on the plunger and that is what pushes the gear into the flywheel. I think it was you reporting ~10 volts at the solenoid, that is going to reduce the current in the solenoid by about 20% and that means 20% less pull on the solenoid.
The flywheel teeth should be straight cut, so maybe look into the hole the starter plugs into and see what they look like. Maybe they are damaged on the engine side and that is hanging up the starter drive gear.
And what transpired from when it used to start OK and when is did not?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
Important is that is must be done in the vehicle and the voltage measured under load. If that voltage is not within 0.5 volts of the battery, look into why. Without full voltage (which produces full current), you won't have the full pull of the solenoid magnetic coil on the plunger and that is what pushes the gear into the flywheel. I think it was you reporting ~10 volts at the solenoid, that is going to reduce the current in the solenoid by about 20% and that means 20% less pull on the solenoid.
The flywheel teeth should be straight cut, so maybe look into the hole the starter plugs into and see what they look like. Maybe they are damaged on the engine side and that is hanging up the starter drive gear.
And what transpired from when it used to start OK and when is did not?
#3
Registered User
Verify you have a fully charged battery.
If so:
Remove the starter and use jumper cables to connect the starter directly to the battery. Connect the positive cable to the stud that the battery cable connects to and the negative cable to the end of the starter housing, where it goes into the transmission. This is simulating how the starter sits in the vehicle. Use a jumper wire (14 or 16 ga will work) to momentarily connect the battery stud to the "S" terminal where the wire from the ignition stitch connects. When you touch the connector spade in the plastic housing on the starter the starter should turn and the bendix should come out. Stay clear of the area!
If the starter works like this, it isn't the starter that's the problem. If the starter doesn't work--you need to find yet another starter. If it works, next check the solenoid power from the ignition switch and battery cables.
Install the starter again. Set the parking brake, chock the wheels, make sure the trans is in neutral, and have a helper hold the clutch just in case. Use the jumper wire to connect the battery stud and the "S" terminal again. Works: bad wiring from the ign switch to the starter, ign switch, or clutch start switch. Doesn't work: Bad battery cable, either positive or negative, or a bad battery.
Good luck,
Bugs
If so:
Remove the starter and use jumper cables to connect the starter directly to the battery. Connect the positive cable to the stud that the battery cable connects to and the negative cable to the end of the starter housing, where it goes into the transmission. This is simulating how the starter sits in the vehicle. Use a jumper wire (14 or 16 ga will work) to momentarily connect the battery stud to the "S" terminal where the wire from the ignition stitch connects. When you touch the connector spade in the plastic housing on the starter the starter should turn and the bendix should come out. Stay clear of the area!
If the starter works like this, it isn't the starter that's the problem. If the starter doesn't work--you need to find yet another starter. If it works, next check the solenoid power from the ignition switch and battery cables.
Install the starter again. Set the parking brake, chock the wheels, make sure the trans is in neutral, and have a helper hold the clutch just in case. Use the jumper wire to connect the battery stud and the "S" terminal again. Works: bad wiring from the ign switch to the starter, ign switch, or clutch start switch. Doesn't work: Bad battery cable, either positive or negative, or a bad battery.
Good luck,
Bugs
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hi 4Crawler. You helped me with that in another post. I went through all of that.
I have a new battery, however it is almost a year old and I have been keeping it charged with a Battery Tender. I also have new 4 gauge power wire and ground wires from battery to the block, and then down to the frame. An 8 guage wire is grounded to the fender.
I have been trying to start the engine with a small battery charger on "start". I just moved the chrager ground to the engine and I saw the engine turn a little. So now I think the battery might be bad--could it be this simple? It never seems to be with me!
Battery measures 12.99 volts alone. With the charger I get up to 13.49 volts or so. The starter doesn't draw too much, maybe .5 to .75 volt drop when I crank.
I have a new battery, however it is almost a year old and I have been keeping it charged with a Battery Tender. I also have new 4 gauge power wire and ground wires from battery to the block, and then down to the frame. An 8 guage wire is grounded to the fender.
I have been trying to start the engine with a small battery charger on "start". I just moved the chrager ground to the engine and I saw the engine turn a little. So now I think the battery might be bad--could it be this simple? It never seems to be with me!
Battery measures 12.99 volts alone. With the charger I get up to 13.49 volts or so. The starter doesn't draw too much, maybe .5 to .75 volt drop when I crank.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
@bugs1961,
Thanks for the info. Luckily I did try putting the battery charger directly to the starter. It started clicking again, but it did turn the engine over I think. At first I thought it was just spinning itself, but after another test I think that sound is the engine turning.
I think I am going to try another battery next...
Thanks for the info. Luckily I did try putting the battery charger directly to the starter. It started clicking again, but it did turn the engine over I think. At first I thought it was just spinning itself, but after another test I think that sound is the engine turning.
I think I am going to try another battery next...
#6
Registered User
Yeah, if the engine turns over at all, it isn't the starter. Very likely a battery that has high internal resistance. It can show good voltage without high amperage but has too much resistance to allow the current necessary to operate the starter.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
IT CRANKS!!!
The problem? A single little star washer. Yup, a star washer I had cost me $100. And of all the problems to have, this is the one I would know most about how to fix.
So here is what happened... I put all new, heavy duty ground wires in the truck. I even grabbed a star washer to make sure there was good contact at the engine (a star washer bites into the metal, even through paint, to make good contact). Of course I dropped and could not find the star washer until after I tighened down the grounds. Turns out there was too much paint on my fresh engine to allow for a good ground. And this was enough to cause all my problems.
Oh well, at least I have a nice new, Toyota starter that I will take care of and rebuild from now on.
Thanks for all the help you guys. Now we will see if she starts... fingers crossed!
The problem? A single little star washer. Yup, a star washer I had cost me $100. And of all the problems to have, this is the one I would know most about how to fix.
So here is what happened... I put all new, heavy duty ground wires in the truck. I even grabbed a star washer to make sure there was good contact at the engine (a star washer bites into the metal, even through paint, to make good contact). Of course I dropped and could not find the star washer until after I tighened down the grounds. Turns out there was too much paint on my fresh engine to allow for a good ground. And this was enough to cause all my problems.
Oh well, at least I have a nice new, Toyota starter that I will take care of and rebuild from now on.
Thanks for all the help you guys. Now we will see if she starts... fingers crossed!
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