zebuz

I have a 1988 toyota 4x4 169k miles it idles good but no power when i try to drive it...

i checked my timing with a timing light and its about 15-20 BTDC and when i turn the distributor its all the way advanced and its on the right timing but runs even worse and wants to die...

ive replaced the timing chain and guides they where okay when i removed the timing cover but i still replaced them to be safe at 169k

so what could my problem be im loosing it here trying to get this thing running right

someone has to have came along this problem before and can help me im not sure what to attempt next....a rebuild but that's money i don't have and i know this engine doesn't need to be rebuilt its just something stupid i just don't understand why i cannot get the timing on and it run right!

please someone give me some tips much appreciated

zebuz

***UPDATE***

fixxed the rough idle stupid....

i left a towel in the throttle body...



so it idles pretty good just no get up and go power...

timing still running 15-20 btdc

HELP

Motox711

Are you shorting out the t2 e for timing. this needs to be done to get acurate timeing on the 22re.. i think those are the ones. check 4crawler.com on timing. he has some good stuff. The other thing is your dizy could be off or your timing chain off one link. to fix the dizy put tdc and make sure the dizy is just before the #1 spark plug. I just went through this on mine because stupid me forgot to mark the dizy when i took the engine apart. hope this helps

zebuz

I did the t2 to e on diagnostic and when i do get it to 5 btdc it runs like crap and wants to die, plus my dizzy is all the way advanced when i put it on correct timing...

abecedarian

When you put the jumper in the check connector, does the engine sound like it's running differently?

Jumper in- idle drops; pull the jumper and idle raises?

zebuz

It doesnt change nothing at all

snobdds

This is how I set my timing and it's perfect every time.

1. Bring engine to TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Now, you can do this 2 ways. Rotate the engine until the line meets up with 0* on the crank. A trick to "feel" the compression stoke is; it will be real hard to turn the engine as it comes to 0*. If you rotate the engine again 360*, it won't be so hard due to you being on the EXHAUST stroke. Or you can take the valve cover off, rotate the engine until the #1 piston's valves are both loose and your at 0*. This is probably better for you so you can double check the cam timing. If cam timing is good, proceed, if not redo your TC.

2. If you have a 22RE you will want to advance the crank to 5*, aligned with the match mark. If you have a 22R, no adjustment is necessary.

3. Take the dizzy and orient it like your going to put it on. Then take the rotor and point it at 12:00. There should be a little match mark on the gear of the dizzy. Grab the rotor and keep it aligned and slowly insert it keeping the match mark at 12:00. Once it's seated correctly, one of the signal vanes inside the dizzy will line up with the signal generator. That will tell you if your on the correct tooth of the gear. Also, your bolt should be dead center of the adjusting hole.

4. Nine times out of ten, the timing will only need a slight adjustment to time it. So, hook up your light, jump Te1 and E1 and check it. That should be it.

5. Now set your idle to 800 RPM’s and recheck the timing.


Now if your idle does not change when you jump the two terminals, that means your TPS is messed up. However, always set your timing correct before you mess with the TPS.

Sorry about the long-winded post, I just put in a new dizzy today so it's fresh in my

abecedarian

Thanks for the "good posting" thing.

Anyhow....

If inserting the jumper does not result in the idle speed changing and the timing light settling down, as it should since the timing should change from the ECU calculated settings (based on rpms, tps and afm feedback) to the basic / initial setting (which we are trying to reach here now, aren't we?)...
... the tps may not be adjusted correctly or is bad, or the trottle cable(cables- may be an automatic?) or decel dashpot (with a manual but don't worry about this yet) are not letting the throttle return to the fully-closed position.

You can check for issues with the throttle cable by simply inserting the jumper and trying to pull the throttle closed with your hand. If the idle and timing change, a cable or spring may be holding it open.

You can check the TPS operation by following the instructions 4Crawler (a highly-esteemed Yotatech member) gives here.

87redtruck

I had the same problem on my 22re I just bought. The timing was an inch or two left (advanced) of 12 degrees so I thought i would just time it normally to bring it back to 5*. When i drove it after adjusting the timing, I had no power. Checked timing again and saw that when i jumped it, the timing mark would not move. That meant the TPS was bad (thank you yotatech), so when I previously timed it to 5* it was giving me a false reading and I was actually retarding the timing beyond 0*, hence no power.

I replaced and adjusted the TPS (let me know if you have any questions because it can be very finicky). Started it for the first time after TPS install and it ran horribly and at high RPMs. But, my check engine light was off and I could jump the terminal and see the timing move. Success in TPS. Let it warm up and was eventually able to get RPMs down and timing to spec. (before warming it up, I had the idle screw all the way to the right and the RPMs wouldnt drop below 1500.)

While at idle, I sprayed throttle body cleaner where the throttle body meets the air plenum and the idle smoothed out. I believe it to be a vacuum leak and ordered the right gasket and am waiting for it to be shipped.

kornhuskerwizard

just had the same problem...the reason its not advancing is because your tps isnt correctly adjusted. it will stay at base timing if the tps isnt set correctly, after you set it correctly it should read 2.3ohms of resistance with a .058mm feeler gauge in the throttle stop. theres links on the proper procedure. i did this, set base timing to 5degrees btdc, after i pulled the jumper it advanced to around 11 or 12 btdc. i fought this for awhile until i realized how the system works. night and day difference in power and starting,idling. to check the resistance on the tps you use the bottom two terminals on the tps sensor with a multimeter.