atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Looking forward to the video being uploaded =). Most cameras (not cell phones) have a spot on the bottom to mount to a tri-pod, maybe you could use that in some way to mount it under the hood like a hole though fender well or something.

Fugen183

if i can first convince my wife to let me use her camera lol

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with that one . A cheap older Nikon would work, but the only place I know to get them pretty cheap is on ebay. Most picture cameras can take video even if it isn't the greatest quality. Memory size would probably be the limiting factor of how long it can record for. A cellphone would work too if you had an older model sitting around or something, kind of hate to see your good one get messed up.

Fugen183

i have an old cell phone not sure quality will be enough to see though

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Retarded ignition timing,
you are mostly just interested if it is going back to zero or beyond to ten degrees atdc (whichever the limit is)..

Retarded valve timing,
You don't seem to have understood what I described. We're not talking about the valve lash, it is a component but you would see that at all rpm ranges. I mentioned the chain stretching and altering the valve timing, this happens due to the cam lagging ( inertia )

Engine coolant temperature sensor,
Not the thermostat the sensors located on the front of the lower intake (below the radiator hose and thermostat housing), they need to have a good ground which they get from the intake housing.

Probably some other stuff I am forgetting but I just got done spending the last two hours doing technical support over the phone for someone who thinks that a computer should function as simply as a strike anywhere match..

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Been there done that with the "title" of database administrator even though I rarely saw databases lol.

Ok back on topic now.

Fugen183

Making some progress i guess. Changed my signal generator and she runs better and the bogging isnt constant. However took her for a test run and got to 65 in 5th with power to spare but halfway through the test drive she bogged to the point that adding gas to it made her bog worse. Had to shut her off and let her sit a few minutes fire her up and haul ass a few times to make it home. Let her sit running today and let her warm up first and she started again. Both times this happened my temp gauge wasnt reading at all leading me to believe the temp sensor possibly even an injector as a side bonus if it does it again while the gauge is reading. When popping the hood the first time i could smell a little coolant although ive no hose or radiator leaks and no white smoke to indicate a blown head gasket today i would get a little smoke coming from the exhaust manifolds connection to the engine at the #4 cylinder leading me to think the gasket is going or the manifold or head could be damaged...let her cool and ill check the temp gauge and get a little mirror to see where i cant get to

snobdds

I would start from scratch. Pull the valve cover and make sure your cam timing is correct. It should be at 5* BTDC. Then make sure your ignition timing is correct. The distributor hold down bolt should be dead center of the adjustment range after inserted, if the distributor is maxed out in either direction, its wrong. Then make sure your idle speed is correct. Recheck your timing with and without the jumper. With the jumper, it should read 5*, without the jumper it should be around 12-13*. Once that is set, double check your TPS adjustments.

I'm guessing your cam timing is off, just going by the bogging down.

On a side note, it's sad to see this place void of all the good people with the 22re. It's a simple motor but is seems to really trip up people now a days.

Fugen183

not a bad idea just alot of work but ill get started on that later thursday or next monday when i can have plenty of free time. Had code 51 for the tps because i installed the new one and adjusted then later cleaned my butterfly valve in the intake and didnt readjust it till this morning.

22res are beastly little engines when they are running but i refuse to let go off that engine if i can help it.

Boostincx

Haha I am EXACTLY where you are with my problem. I noticed it revs up and drives real good when its cold. Only starts to bog and give me a 1900~ rev limiter when it warms up a bit. Lead me to believe the Engine coolant temp sensor "could" be bad... a real shot in the dark as im not throwing any codes at all. But currently my entire upper intake manifold is off my truck, got the new sensor put in, a ROYAL pain in the arse i might add. Accidentally snapped the neck off my heater control valve while i was doing so, so i had to order up a new one. I'll report back in a few days once i get the heater valve back in if my problem persists.

Fugen183

i grabbed a new coolant temp sensor for $16 cheap enough to warrant a replace test....although i replaced my o2 sensor this morning. We can only hope it fixes both of our problems lol

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Since the original problem started with your AFM, I would go back to it. Did you get a new one or a salvage AFM? Just because it passed the electrical check does not mean it is good. Does the flapper inside move freely? They can get stiff and move incorrectly. The AFM has never thrown a code for me unless you forget to hook up the cable. I have had some bad AFM and never threw a code.

EGR I have always got to work just by cleaning them. They can get clogged and dirty.

Fugen183

i ohmed the MAF/AFM and checked the flapper and its checks out. But ive got the problem down to only when its warmed now so theres some progress. Replaced the coolant temp sensor this morning but i have next to no gas so i need to grab more todat and test again

Boostincx

Any improvement since you installed the coolant temp sensor?

Fugen183

ahh yes sorry. Coolant gauge works and she runs great!....until she hits operating temp then she bogs exactky as you described yours lol. Imma research a bit and check my choke and bvsv next week while im off.

Fugen183

Well i think i figured it out! Tested the bvsv(bi-metal vacuum switch valve for anyone wondering because i know i was) and it tested....fine! Its fine....stuck my little mirror down near the exhaust connection with the heads looking for a puff of smoke when i add throttle and i found a coolant leak coming from my head gasket as well as the smoke. So yay gotta replace my head gasket....thats the one thing i wanted to avoid well im already invested( money and emotion wise) to bonnie so im getting her running! Just needed to wait on tax returns for my lift kit and parts to fix my bonnie.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Before I got into doing a head gasket, I would pull the plugs and see if one is clean. Also do a compression check and see what you come up with on the numbers.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

My 4runer has the blown head gasket problem too, it lacked power but everyone goes on and on about how they are a 3.slow, figured that was "normal" till it had antifreeze steaming off the back part of the head. It had a miss that I didn't get much time to look into, pretty sure I know what it is now. It didn't really bog in my situation though, it just lacked power all the way though, probably because it's a 5 cyl atm lol.

The head gasket kits aren't super bad price wise, I've heard the job is a bit of a pain, but that's kind of expected with a v6 instead of a inline 4.

Good luck with the head gasket job, if you have questions, post them up so we can make sure the job gets done right.

Fugen183

with my tax return coming i just want her fixed right so ill go ahead and replace the gasket and all. Ive done it before on a 22re in an 85 runner it was....difficult but we also replaced the heads entirely and more.

Boostincx

Sorry to hear about your head gasket, I dread having to do that job. I finished my coolant temp sensor, intake mani gasket, tb gasket, Pcv valve, O2 sensor, New distributor, New coil.... Ugh. Runs really good, smooth idle and revs up nice all the way until it's fully warm now. I went out for a drive and after a few miles, back with the same bogging/cutting out rev limiter problem, this time around 1600~ rpm. I'm starting to think the whole time there has been junk in the gas tank, clogging the fuel pump pickup... I haven't dropped the tank yet or tested my fuel pressure, just speculating. If it's just sitting in the driveway it revs up all day long, no codes stored in the ecu, but when it cuts out the engine light does flash just nothing gets stored.