1988 4Runner
#1
1988 4Runner
I finally have the 4runner going again, thanks to you guys. Now I am working on a few minor things. The rear window seems to be a common problem with the 4runner. The window will go up and down while using the key in the tailgate although while using the switch on the console nothing happens. I used an ohm meter to test the console switch and window lock switch and they are working fine. Are there relays or switches between the console and window motor that could be bad that are not used when using the key? The vehicle has been sitting up for many years so I am thinking something is corroded from lack of use. Any suggestions?
#2
Registered User
Poppie - well, there aren't any different relays depending on rear key switch or console switch, there is an up relay, a down relay, an ignition relay, and one for the wiper. The ignition has to be on for the console switch to work, and of course as you figured the lock button must not be engaged. Could be a problem in the wiring between your console and the relay board.
Here's a schematic from 4Crawler:
Here's a schematic from 4Crawler:
#3
No need tp troubleshoot the relay yet, But thanks, Coryc85! That may come in handy later.
Poppie51,
For now, grab a digital multi-meter, some jumper wires, and a couple of UNINSULATED, Clean paper clips
Here's how rear window control works.
Do you have 12Volts at Pin 8 of rear window control relay? If not, one of the yellow circuit breaker piggybacked on fuse/relay block in kick panel left-hand side may have blown/tripped. Else, trace wire all the way to engine fuse. The 12V comes from the engine fuse. Fix any problem and let us know.
IF you have 12V at pin 8, Do the following checks ONE AT A TIME:
Jump pin 4 of window control relay directly to body ground. (can probe back of connector with paper clip connected to grounded jumper wire.) Window should roll down.
Jump 5 to ground. Window should roll up.
If both of the above work, you're merely missing ground side from console Up-down switch, through window lock switch, to top-off switch off.
Let us know what you find out.
Sometime in the past 27 years, could someone have spilt coffee, soda or beer on the console switches? Bad location so I fixed it here, and freed up good location for a cup holder
Poppie51,
For now, grab a digital multi-meter, some jumper wires, and a couple of UNINSULATED, Clean paper clips
Here's how rear window control works.
Do you have 12Volts at Pin 8 of rear window control relay? If not, one of the yellow circuit breaker piggybacked on fuse/relay block in kick panel left-hand side may have blown/tripped. Else, trace wire all the way to engine fuse. The 12V comes from the engine fuse. Fix any problem and let us know.
IF you have 12V at pin 8, Do the following checks ONE AT A TIME:
Jump pin 4 of window control relay directly to body ground. (can probe back of connector with paper clip connected to grounded jumper wire.) Window should roll down.
Jump 5 to ground. Window should roll up.
If both of the above work, you're merely missing ground side from console Up-down switch, through window lock switch, to top-off switch off.
Let us know what you find out.
Sometime in the past 27 years, could someone have spilt coffee, soda or beer on the console switches? Bad location so I fixed it here, and freed up good location for a cup holder
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-13-2015 at 10:28 PM.
#4
i've been through the rear window electrical several times already, including replacing all of the relays on the circuit board, and re-wiring it per the 4crawler directions.
at various times either one of the console switches wouldn't work, or the key switch in back didn't work in both directions... i'd get it put back together, and then after a few weeks, nothing worked.
it turned out that there was some sort of a connector issue, where the harness plugged into the circuit board... the harness hangs down, constantly being pulled by it's own weight and the vibration of the truck... i cleaned the board connections, and tried to re-torque the connector side of the harness, but it wasn't until i tied the connection together with tie wraps that i got consistency in operation, that lasted for more than a few weeks.
at various times either one of the console switches wouldn't work, or the key switch in back didn't work in both directions... i'd get it put back together, and then after a few weeks, nothing worked.
it turned out that there was some sort of a connector issue, where the harness plugged into the circuit board... the harness hangs down, constantly being pulled by it's own weight and the vibration of the truck... i cleaned the board connections, and tried to re-torque the connector side of the harness, but it wasn't until i tied the connection together with tie wraps that i got consistency in operation, that lasted for more than a few weeks.
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