paynemw

I have a 1987 2WD with a 22R and manual transmission. The guy I bought from pieced the truck together, so I'm not sure if I have a 1987 22R or not, but once I find the serial on the block then I will be able to tell, regardless, based off how it was put together it seems to be from one year. My truck is running at high idle and I don't believe it is the fast idle cam, I think it is the coolant temperature sensor, the only problem is the connection I have does not match what is offered at the local Napa or other parts stores. Can you guys help identify what I might have. Thanks.
-Matt

slow-mo

That "sensor" is not realy a sensor as it is more of a temperature switch. One the engine coolant reaches a certain temperature, that switch will trigger. Since I do not have the service maual with me I can't be certain which thermo-switch that is, meaning if that switch turns on or off at that desired temperature. I have the same year truck as you but mine's a California model which has two of the thermo-switches, the one you have plus and another one for emisions. On mine, one switch turns on and one switch turns off at that set coolant temperatue. Since yours looks like a Federal model, I don't know for certain which one yours is.

I found out, as you are finding out, that the only place to get it is from Toyota.

Either go to your local dealer or go to http://www.toyomotorparts.com/ and then input your VIN. From there you want to click on the "Electrical" tab. From there click on "Switch & Relay". Then you can open the parts diagram to view the different components and part numbers.

Here's the link for the parts fiche for now.

http://www.utoyot8.com/FullImage.asp...%2c6%23%2c7%23


Oh, I forgot to mention. Any of these coolant temperature sensors & switches do not effect the idle of the carburetor. On California vehicles, one temperature switch does affect the carburetor but not the idle, but that's a different subject. The computer only uses these switches and sensors to trigger other engine related components. But it does not affect the carburetor. Some of the components are the Cold Mixture Heater (CMH), the EVAP system, lets see what else is there.....well, anyways, the factory repair manual shows all that the switches and sensors controls.

There have been instances where a faulty Bi-metal Vacuum Switch Valve (BVSV) and a faulty Axillary Accelerator Pump (AAP) will allow fuel to circumvent the carburetor by going directly into the intake maifold.


When you say you have high idle, when does it occur?

paynemw

VERY good explanation. So, it will run at high idle from a cold start, and from a warm start. I adjusted the idle to the lowest setting, and when operating correctly the engine will idle at around 900 RPM, obviously after I bump the gas to let the fast idle cam "disengage" completely. But sometimes when driving I have to bump the gas to get it to go below 1500 RPM at "idle" (not pressing the gas, sitting at a stop light) and typically it will "idle" around 1200 RPM. It doesn't help that he removed the EVAP system, so I'm still looking for all of the parts while going to school and working on the 4Runner. Here's a picture of how the carb looked when I picked it up. I have since rewired everything and it looks factory now, nice copper crimps with solder and shrink wrapped, then bundled together. this picture gives you an idea of how everything else looks.

There are a ton of exposed portions of wire, so I am slowly repairing the wire harness to remove those exposures. I did have a significant improvement in how the engine ran after I fixed the harness that supports the carb. The reason why I asked about that sensor, was that I am believing that the computer believes the engine is still cold, so therefore running at a higher idle until I tap the gas, but now that you mention it, I wonder if I just didn't fix the problem with the fast idle cam. Do you have any recommendations on where I can read up on how the fast idle cam works, and or recommendations to pinpoint the problem? So far I haven't found anything sufficient via forum searches here. Thanks for the help!

slow-mo

Here's a pic of the Fast Idle Cam:




The Fast Idle Cam disengages one of two ways. One way is that since it is indirectly connected to the choke plate, when the choke plate opens, the arm connected to the Fast Idle Cam will also adjust. However, since the Fast Idle Cam is only indirectly connected, when the choke plate moves, it does not directly move the Fast Idle Cam. The friction exerted by the throttle valve, which in the picture the Cam Follower is connected to, prevents the Fast Idle Cam from stepping down the RPMs. When you blip the throttle, then the friction or pressure on the Fast Idle Cam is released enough to allow the Fast Idle Cam to rotate to where the the choke valve arm is at. It is then that the Fast Idle Cam steps down to a lower step to reduce the engine speed.

Secondly, once the engine coolant reaches a specified temperature, the Bimetal Vacuum Switch Valve (BVSV), will switch the vacuum from the Axillary Accelerator Pump (AAP) to the Choke Pull Off diaphragm. This will force all residual choke related mechanisms and Fast Idle Cam settings to the "off" position.

The BVSV that controls the AAP and the Choke Pull Off is located in between the intake manifold and the middle of the cylinder head. It is threaded into a small water "housing", I guess one could call it that. That housing is bolted onto the cylinder head.

In this parts fiche, the housing is part number 11185.

http://www.utoyot8.com/FullImage.asp...08-++++)22R%23

So, for you high idle issues, look for any vacuum leaks first. I can see in the picture you posted of your carburetor, there is a open hole right next to the large red wire feeding to the choke. It's next to the lower crimp. You do state that this is a "before", so you may have already seen and delt with it.

One thing I noticed on my carburetor is that the throttle arm will stick open ever so slightly from the normaly closed position. That will cause my idle to be a little bit higher than normal. What you can do is to try to duplicate the same high idle condition and then open the hood and manualy try to turn the throttle valve closed. If it does close some more, like mine, then you have a problem in the throttle valve shaft itself. With me, my throttle cable has enough slack in it that the cable itself is not what is causing the throttle valve to close.

87 toyota pickup

First time here, I hope someone can help me I have a 87 Toyota pickup 22r carburated, recently it's been giving me a hard time,my problem is that when the truck's cold it iddles really rough but it runs good ,I recently had a mechanic clean the carburetor thinking that would solve my problem but it didn't he keeps adjustin the carburetor and it keeps doing the same thing please any opinions would help alot Thank you. Hope I'm not getting in nobody's way on this post but I'm new at this.

C17loadclear

I had posted this problem under the topic choke voltage but I think my problem is possibly the BVSV. My high idle cam is not rotating out of the way once the truck is warm but the choke is opening. I can reach in and manually push the high idle cam out of the way but if I crack the the throttle it will engage again. I have checked for vac leaks so the question is, how to troubleshoot the BVSV??

Thoughts??