jb9

Hello,

I have a 1987 PU 4x4 with a 4-cylinder 22R engine. It's starting to get cold and I am noticing that my clutch pedal is losing pressure and it is becoming more and more difficult to shift. Rather than destroy my transmission, I am fairly certain I should get this figured out. How can I accurately diagnose whether I should replace the Clutch Master or the Clutch Slave? Or both? Also, based on what I have been reading here, it seems that the Aisin models are considered OEM and are recommended as the most reliable. Also, is all I need a 10mm Flare Nut Wrench for the lines and to do the bleeding? I am sort of a newbie but I think I could pull off this repair with a little encouragement from the forum. If anyone has any recommendations, I'd be grateful. I need this truck to get to work...

Thanks in advance. Much gratitude to all the knowledgeable folks here...

jb9

RAD4Runner

Check for leaks, especially around the plunger that the clutch pedal pushes. Inspect floor below that for signs of leak. If problem found, replace both master and slave cylinder with Aisin. Don't waste your time and money on after-market. Even if they have warranty you'll still waste your time replacing them.
Check FSM for proper travels.
Drain all fluid and replace.
Bleed well, yep, simple. all you need are 10-mm box-end wrench and an assistant.

SEARCH the forum for more details. I'm sure this simple thing has already been covered.

jb9

Thanks. I took a look at the plunger where the pedal meets the firewall and did not see any signs of fluid leaking to the floor. Also, when I looked online for Aisin slave cylinders for a 1987, I found a whole bunch at autopartswarehouse.com but I wasn't sure which one to get. They all looked similar but I wasn't sure if some were new or rebuilt or had slightly different designs. Should I take a photo and just make I match it exactly by the photo?

Thanks again in advance.

jennygirl

Behold! The AlexMan!

[YOUTUBE]5p115o_2SiU[/YOUTUBE]

Dunno what it is but I kinda have a crush on this guy

If you're not leaking from the master cylinder, it has to be the slave or along the tubing from one to the other which is easy to spot if you follow it up and around the engine along the firewall. It's a stupid simple system. Follow the AlexMan, he will show you the light!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Both the Master and Slave should be done at the same time along with the rubber hose as with age they tend to balloon and swell.

The hydraulics can also fail internally and not leak making even harder to find.

Never go by pictures online trying to match parts .

The Aisin Part numbers are CMT-003 Master cylinder

Slave Cylinder CRT-001

Parts numbers from Aisin Aftermarket

Just be aware some web sites use their own part numbers.

jb9

I got the part number from Aisin Aftermarket (CRT-001).

Can anyone recommend an online resource where I could be sure I was purchasing this particular part?

Also, if I needed to replace the section of tubing, where would I get a section? Or would I have to make it?

Thanks.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Wyoming9 has a good point. Usually it is the slave cylinder that fails and then shortly there after the master cylinder will fail. I have started changing the master and slave cylinder when I change a clutch. They are usually starting to wear out by then and with the higher pressure, they seem to fail after replacing a clutch.

Rockauto has the parts available. Toyota still sells the metal line from the slave cylinder for $20 if I recall right.

RAD4Runner

Try Rockauto.com.
Also highly recommended to get OEM (Aisin) I went cheap and got aftermarket from O'Rielly. Part failed after a few months. I wasted my remove and replace time, but not my money because O'Reilly covered it under warranty and the resourceful salesperson found me an AISIN! for about same price as the cheap after-market.

jb9

Update:

So I ordered the Aisin parts and am still waiting for the Master (got the Slave yesterday). I hit the retaining bolts, line nut and bleeder valve on the existing slave with some Aero-Kroil and everything will loosen cleanly. Just for the hell of it, I decided to bleed the line with a friend and things defintely improved. I don't have any regrets that I bought the Master and Slave, but I may not do the replacement (first the slave as suggested) right away (I have to move (close by) in about 13 days) until I get moved into my new place... If for some reason, I botched the job, I would be without my truck for the move. The truck shifts fine now but I am wondering... If I am under the truck when a buddy engages the clutch, should I see the slave actuate AND HOLD until he releases it? Like I said, I know I will be able to nail this job (you guys are great), but I am just happy to have a driveable vehicle for my move (a half mile away). Plus it is getting really cold here (wish I had a garage). If anyone has any strong opinions, feel free to reply. Otherwise, sorry for the long reply and hope everyone has a great Xmas.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

When you replace the slave cylinder, you will need to bleed the air out of it. You will see the slave cylinder and it will move the fork that engages/disengaes the clutch.

To bleed it, have someone to pump the clutch 4 times and hold it to the floor. You will open the bleed screw and let the air/fluid out, then close the bleed valve and have other person to repeat the process. I keep bleeding until I get clean fluid thru the system and no more air. Keep the resivoir full.

soilsnick

I'm currently having the same issue on my '91 pickup. These tips look great and I'm going to investigate further. Thanks!