Ears

I've got a problem that I can't seem to get around. I recently installed a new 22-re long block in to my truck. It ran fine, but it developed a intermittent rough idle issue. I did however notice that If it was idling rough, that it would stop as soon as I hit the AC button! Weird. I checked all the vacuum lines and found a crack in the line that runs to the PCV. I replaced that, cleaned the engine, re-charged the K&N, re-torqued the header and exhaust studs, filled the tank with 91 octane and used a fuel injector cleaner as well to make sure. Everything cleared up and it ran great again.
Today I took it to get it smogged and it failed in the idle section! (mind you the idle was very smooth too) As far as failing goes, It was only 7 points over. I figured it must have been the plugs or the wires so I changed those with genuine toyota parts. I pulled the dist cap and rotor to have a look at them, and put them back on. As soon as I cranked it over it ran like a turd. Missing like crazy. I found out it was missing in #4. I went down to toyota and bought a new rotor and it cleared up a bit, but still not good. The cap looks near new!
Any Ideas?

It also had a problem where the e-brake light would refuse to go out, or the 4wd light would pop on and flicker if the e-brake light did go out. The check engine light would come on, once but go out as soon as I hit the brakes. I assumed it was a ground issue so I cleaned all grounds, with no luck. It sometimes gets a loss of power to the starter soleniod. The Alt is near new.

Kiroshu

WEll for one sounds like you gotta lot of electrial probs. Which is not fun and not good. i hate electrial stuff. All vac lines good? All vac holes plugged and or hoses in right places? I would not recomend that 91 fuel either but its up to you. Reg 87 is what 22rs have been runnin since factory and are designed specifially for it. Are the injectors old? It may need a new injectors or one new one on #4. Fuel cleaner really does not work alot on very old fuel systems but can help a bit for a while. Check all your connects to your injectors make sure they are on and tight. Oil cap on tight lol? Can cause rough idle too. Fuel filter? Timming correct? May need new distributor cap just cause it looks new does not mean it don't have defects. They get lil cracks in them over time. Pcv valve? May need new one. Dunno about your brake light. Is it leakin Brake fluid any where from lines? Sometimes small leaks cause that light to come on. Dunno about your 4WD light unless its in 4WD right now and you don't know it and the bulb is burnning out from so long. Make sure e-brake is all the way in lol. If your check engine light is comming on and you hit the brakes and it goes off you may have a leaking brake booster which runs off vaccum from motor.

abecedarian

failed emissions by points? /me calls you out on that
post the HC, CO, NOx and CO2 readings as well as what RPM those were tested at and which jurisdiction you were having the tests done in

abecedarian

you don't fail emissions tests by 'points'

Ears

Points, I may have used the wrong word there. The low was 40 on the idle emission scale and the high was 150. I was at 157. When I pulled the plugs they were pretty bad. Good color, but the electrodes were really rounded off. I think that I might have a brake fluid leak though. I have to do some checking. What ever it is its basic and I am just not seeing it. It was running killer until replaced the wires and plugs and pulled off the dist cap and rotor. I've owned this truck since 1991 and it has always been a reliable truck, no electrical probs ever. It is a clean truck too. The chassis has 360,000 miles on it, but rebuild the auto trans,rear end, front end, and its on its third engine! I'll re-check that stuff to see what i come up with. I ordered a new toyota dist cap that i'll put on on weds. Keep ya posted...

Thanks.

abecedarian

No problems.
Emissions are measure in PPM (parts per million) or GPM (grams per mile). If the 157 was the HC (hydrocarbon) reading, the plugs could cause that. Worn plugs, or incorrectly gapped ones as well, could cause the misfire you're experiencing too.
Make sure all the wires are firmly seated in the distributor cap, coil and on the plugs as well and are routed clear of any metal and are not bundled too close to each other or other wiring. Also, many people claim issues with platinum and iridium plugs as well as nearly every brand other than NGK or Denso plugs. I've used AC/Delco plugs without issues but others have claimed problems. Also, double check your timing since too far advanced or retarded can affect emissions as well.
As for the electrical problems, check the plug to the gauge cluster is tight and the wiring behind the dash hasn't chaffed on something and is not shorting to anything. Check the e-brake switch is in good condition and adjusted properly, and if you have the brake fluid level sensor check that it's not sticking and you have enough brake fluid.