Valve lash settings
#1
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Thread Starter
Valve lash settings
I have a new head and the 261C cam from Ted at engnbldr. He recommended valve lash settings at .007" for intake and .009" for exhaust. I did this today and immediately noticed much more clatter, or noise, from the engine. I don't know if I'ld characterize it as pinging or knocking but it's close. Is this normal? Or should I open up one or both a little more?
Also, the engine seems to have more of a "rumble" to it, almost like you can feel each individual combustion vibrating through the truck. I don't think I noticed that previously with the stock cam.
Also, the engine seems to have more of a "rumble" to it, almost like you can feel each individual combustion vibrating through the truck. I don't think I noticed that previously with the stock cam.
#3
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7 and 9 cold or hot? And a cam will have a little lope to it. That's normal.
I just dropped a motor with a 260 cam and they recommended .008 and .010 COLD. Most valve adjustments are recommended after warming up the motor is why I asked.
I just dropped a motor with a 260 cam and they recommended .008 and .010 COLD. Most valve adjustments are recommended after warming up the motor is why I asked.
#4
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Thread Starter
umm, nothing in the instructions from Ted about "break in" and nothing in FSM that I could find about cam break in. Answer is 'yes' only if you're referring to adjusting after test drive, I suppose.
hot, yea I did it after the engine was warmed. But Ted didn't specify cold or hot, I just assumed....
hot, yea I did it after the engine was warmed. But Ted didn't specify cold or hot, I just assumed....
#5
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did you at least dump a bunch of oil or grease up the cam during install?
The "new engine" breakin "procedure" also helps "bed" the cam to the rockers. This is why you vary RPM during breakin so you don't flatspot the cam which can lead to abnormal sounds from the valve train.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0...cam/index.html
just because our valve train doesn't have lifters, it is still a mechanical flat-tappet cam, essentially a solid lifter cam.
My cam from EB didn't come with instructions either and the FSM doesn't mention anything about how to breakin anything really, including new engines and brakes.
I would talk to EB and ask them if not holding the engine at 2500-3000 for 20 minutes or so while varying engine rpm periodically would damage that cam at all.
The "new engine" breakin "procedure" also helps "bed" the cam to the rockers. This is why you vary RPM during breakin so you don't flatspot the cam which can lead to abnormal sounds from the valve train.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0...cam/index.html
just because our valve train doesn't have lifters, it is still a mechanical flat-tappet cam, essentially a solid lifter cam.
My cam from EB didn't come with instructions either and the FSM doesn't mention anything about how to breakin anything really, including new engines and brakes.
I would talk to EB and ask them if not holding the engine at 2500-3000 for 20 minutes or so while varying engine rpm periodically would damage that cam at all.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 02-18-2011 at 06:13 AM.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
did you at least dump a bunch of oil or grease up the cam during install?
The "new engine" breakin "procedure" also helps "bed" the cam to the rockers. This is why you vary RPM during breakin so you don't flatspot the cam which can lead to abnormal sounds from the valve train.
My cam from EB didn't come with instructions either and the FSM doesn't mention anything about how to breakin anything really, including new engines and brakes.
I would talk to EB and ask them if not holding the engine at 2500-3000 for 20 minutes or so while varying engine rpm periodically would damage that cam at all.
The "new engine" breakin "procedure" also helps "bed" the cam to the rockers. This is why you vary RPM during breakin so you don't flatspot the cam which can lead to abnormal sounds from the valve train.
My cam from EB didn't come with instructions either and the FSM doesn't mention anything about how to breakin anything really, including new engines and brakes.
I would talk to EB and ask them if not holding the engine at 2500-3000 for 20 minutes or so while varying engine rpm periodically would damage that cam at all.
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#8
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#9
Registered User
I would still contact EB to see if not lubing or "breaking in" that cam has the possibility to flatten a lobe or two, causing valve train noise and quite possibly performance issues with the cam.
I was always taught you have to always run that 2000-3000 RPM breakin on a flat-tappet cam. Roller cams are a little different.
I was always taught you have to always run that 2000-3000 RPM breakin on a flat-tappet cam. Roller cams are a little different.
#10
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Thread Starter
I would still contact EB to see if not lubing or "breaking in" that cam has the possibility to flatten a lobe or two, causing valve train noise and quite possibly performance issues with the cam.
I was always taught you have to always run that 2000-3000 RPM breakin on a flat-tappet cam. Roller cams are a little different.
I was always taught you have to always run that 2000-3000 RPM breakin on a flat-tappet cam. Roller cams are a little different.
#11
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iTrader: (6)
with all the break in procedures aside, and yes they are valid at this point, did you install the valve cover correctly? I ask because if you over tighten the cover it will make noise as the rockers hit the cover. Also did you adjust the valve lash in the right order and proper process? A simple break down of the process to make sure.
Start with the motor at TDC at operating temp. Adjust intake valves 1&2 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 1&3 to .009. Rotate engine 360 deg. Adjust intake valves 3&4 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 2&4 to .009.
I know it sounds simple but as we all know people can and will miss the simple stuff. And on another note could the chatter be the injectors ticking? Your sig says 22r so i assume its a carb'd motor and the injectors are a non issue.
Honestly go back re-adjust your valves and see where it is after the first oil change and check them again.
Start with the motor at TDC at operating temp. Adjust intake valves 1&2 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 1&3 to .009. Rotate engine 360 deg. Adjust intake valves 3&4 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 2&4 to .009.
I know it sounds simple but as we all know people can and will miss the simple stuff. And on another note could the chatter be the injectors ticking? Your sig says 22r so i assume its a carb'd motor and the injectors are a non issue.
Honestly go back re-adjust your valves and see where it is after the first oil change and check them again.
Last edited by mightymouse; 02-18-2011 at 12:14 PM.
#12
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iTrader: (1)
OP,
I have the exact same head and cam from EB. I adjusted the valves cold on initial install, and made sure to grease the cam lobes as stated above. Then ran the motor for 500 miles, did a hot valve adjustment(valves were a little loose once i ran the truck) and now the motor is extremely quiet. From Ted at EB, he said that the head design they use helps keep valve tick quiet. So, I would double check your valve adjustments again and perhaps, as metioned above, check the valve cover
I have the exact same head and cam from EB. I adjusted the valves cold on initial install, and made sure to grease the cam lobes as stated above. Then ran the motor for 500 miles, did a hot valve adjustment(valves were a little loose once i ran the truck) and now the motor is extremely quiet. From Ted at EB, he said that the head design they use helps keep valve tick quiet. So, I would double check your valve adjustments again and perhaps, as metioned above, check the valve cover
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I know it sounds simple but as we all know people can and will miss the simple stuff. And on another note could the chatter be the injectors ticking? Your sig says 22r so i assume its a carb'd motor and the injectors are a non issue.
Honestly go back re-adjust your valves and see where it is after the first oil change and check them again.
Honestly go back re-adjust your valves and see where it is after the first oil change and check them again.
OP,
I have the exact same head and cam from EB. I adjusted the valves cold on initial install, and made sure to grease the cam lobes as stated above. Then ran the motor for 500 miles, did a hot valve adjustment(valves were a little loose once i ran the truck) and now the motor is extremely quiet. From Ted at EB, he said that the head design they use helps keep valve tick quiet. So, I would double check your valve adjustments again and perhaps, as metioned above, check the valve cover
I have the exact same head and cam from EB. I adjusted the valves cold on initial install, and made sure to grease the cam lobes as stated above. Then ran the motor for 500 miles, did a hot valve adjustment(valves were a little loose once i ran the truck) and now the motor is extremely quiet. From Ted at EB, he said that the head design they use helps keep valve tick quiet. So, I would double check your valve adjustments again and perhaps, as metioned above, check the valve cover
Did you do .007/.009 cold also?
#14
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#19
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