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Missing, Knock CEL, Hesitation ~1800-2400RPM

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Old 05-08-2017, 06:14 PM   #1
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Missing, Knock CEL, Hesitation ~1800-2400RPM

Hey all, picked up a 1985 4Runner SR5 (manual, 22RE). It had a refurbished 22RE motor swapped in, but the truck has been missing since I got it. I have been trying to track down the issue, and haven't had any luck yet. I've been scouring the forums looking for things to check.

Issues: Missing, CEL - Knock, Hesitation/Stutter ~1800-2400 RPM

So far I've checked/verified/replaced/done the following:
- AFM - Checked, was bad and replaced.
- TPS - Checked and adjusted to in spec
- Wires, Plugs, Distributor Replaced (When I replced the distributor I set to 5 degrees BTDC)
- Pulled the Throttle Body and Upper Intake Manifold and cleaned them
- Pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves. [While I had it at TDC (0 degrees) the holes on the gear were at 12 o'clock]
- Checked the timing, it bounces around a bit but seems to be staying with 5-8 degrees at idle
- Adjusted idle to ~700RPM
- Replaced the vacuum hoses (I still think there might be a leak, but I can't pinpoint it.)
- Checked the injectors, all reading 2.5 OHMs, also listened to them and they are all ticking like I'd expect
- Compression Test shows 161-165 psi on all 4 cylinders (warm).
- Replaced the Knock Sensor. CEL is gone! (Still have the miss)
- Tested the ignitor and coil today (minus the dry cell battery test) and the primary resistance was 1ohm and the secondary was 13.81k ohms
- Fuel pressure jumpered 38psi, while idling vacuum pulled and plugged 40psi, and 30psi straight idling, pressure remained above 21psi while off
- Injectors & Wiring Replaced (No more Miss!)


I think at this point all I have left is to look into fuel and electrical issues. Is there anywhere else I should possibly look before I go down that route?

Any advice on which direction I should go and advice on order I should approach things?

Last edited by Saiba Samurai; 05-25-2017 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Updated test results.
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Old 05-12-2017, 01:04 PM   #2
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Would I be correct in assuming the item circled in red should be my knock sensor and the PO just plugged it?
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Old 05-12-2017, 01:42 PM   #3
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Hey there Saiba Samurai, you are correct, the spot circled in red is where the knock sensor is supposed to be. Its hard to tell from your photo but it looks like there is a sensor in the port, however it looks to be the wrong one...
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Old 05-12-2017, 01:43 PM   #4
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Hey there Saiba Samurai, you are correct, the spot circled in red is where the knock sensor is supposed to be. Its hard to tell from your photo but it looks like there is a sensor in the port, however it looks to be the wrong one...

I don't know if it's the right sensor.. but I do know there's a Phillips head screw plugging it...

I also think I found the pig tail on the other end and broken as well. So I'm guessing they just tucked the pigtail out of sight and plugged the knock sensor.
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Old 05-12-2017, 02:10 PM   #5
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I don't know if it's the right sensor.. but I do know there's a Phillips head screw plugging it...

I also think I found the pig tail on the other end and broken as well. So I'm guessing they just tucked the pigtail out of sight and plugged the knock sensor.
Ah, ok. when I first looked at your photo I thought that the PO might have gotten the sensors mixed up and used a low oil pressure sensor there..
As far as the pigtail goes is that the other item you have circled in your photo? Because the knock sensor is only a one wire connection.
The connector in the pic is a 2 wire is it not?
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Old 05-12-2017, 03:35 PM   #6
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No that is a different connector that I need to figure out what it goes to. The connector that I think is the knock sensor connector, has 1 wire.
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Old 05-13-2017, 03:45 PM   #7
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No that is a different connector that I need to figure out what it goes to. The connector that I think is the knock sensor connector, has 1 wire.
Ok, there is a way to determine if you have the right wire, assuming you have access to a voltmeter. Unplug the harness from the ECU, locate the pin for the knock sensor and check for continuity between that pin and the wire you believe is the knock sensor connector.( If you need the electrical pinouts for the ECU let me know and I'll post them up)
This method can also potentially be used to identify what the other connector is for as well.
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Old 05-15-2017, 01:12 PM   #8
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Ok, there is a way to determine if you have the right wire, assuming you have access to a voltmeter. Unplug the harness from the ECU, locate the pin for the knock sensor and check for continuity between that pin and the wire you believe is the knock sensor connector.( If you need the electrical pinouts for the ECU let me know and I'll post them up)
This method can also potentially be used to identify what the other connector is for as well.

I was able to get my hands on a new Knock Sensor.. and plugged it up today. The CEL is gone but still getting the miss.
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:11 PM   #9
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I was able to get my hands on a new Knock Sensor.. and plugged it up today. The CEL is gone but still getting the miss.
Well, that's a little bit of progress at least, solving the CEL code. I re-read what you have already checked/tested and you didn't mention if you tested the coil and ignitor. Have you checked these parts yet as well as the wiring to these components? Also you said that you think there might still be a vacuum leak? If it's a big enough leak that can cause your misfire.
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:51 PM   #10
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Well, that's a little bit of progress at least, solving the CEL code. I re-read what you have already checked/tested and you didn't mention if you tested the coil and ignitor. Have you checked these parts yet as well as the wiring to these components? Also you said that you think there might still be a vacuum leak? If it's a big enough leak that can cause your misfire.
I am going to try and tackle testing those tomorrow. Need to read up on the procedure a little bit first.

I don't think the vacuum leak is big enough to cause the misfire. I could be wrong, I replaced most of the hoses and the remaining ones seem pretty good.
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Old 05-16-2017, 02:51 PM   #11
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Nevermind.

Last edited by Saiba Samurai; 05-16-2017 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 05-16-2017, 03:52 PM   #12
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Sorry, just saw that you that you edited your post.

Last edited by 85TRD4runner; 05-16-2017 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 05-16-2017, 04:06 PM   #13
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Sorry, just saw that you that you edited your post.
Haha no worries. I didn't want to derail this thread, and I did some research and came to the same conclusion you did. I had the idle screw way up from all the other problems I have been chasing since I bought this one.

Now that I'm in a pretty good spot I cleared the ECU by pulling the fuse, and then went back through and adjusted the timing, idle, & tps, to ensure everything is still good.

So now I feel like I can refocus on the miss with a good base.

Still have the miss.

So I checked the ignition coil & ignitor, with the caveat that I didn't do the dry cell battery test in the service manual. (Don't have one handy.)
- Primary resistance was 1ohm
- Secondary was 13.81k ohms

So I think I'm back to fuel and wiring.

Note: I'm still not confident in testing the wiring via the ECU. Do I just pull the plugs out of the ECU and then stick my probes in there? Seems like I'm going to have to unbolt it from the sidewall to really tell if I'm in the right pin.

Last edited by Saiba Samurai; 05-16-2017 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 05-16-2017, 04:39 PM   #14
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Fuel pressure jumpered 38psi, while idling vacuum pulled and plugged 40psi, and 30psi straight idling, pressure remained above 21psi while off
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Old 05-16-2017, 04:52 PM   #15
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So I was removing my fuel pressure gauge and just as I was about to screw in the banjo bolt fuel started spraying everywhere.. somehow the pump got a signal to send fuel. Key was out of the ignition and the fuel diagnostic terminal was not jumpered.

Is this why they say disconnect the battery? Does the ECU endeavor to keep fuel in the line? I had assumed it was about safety, not something like the ECU trying to keep things primed.

If that's not the case would that point to possibly a wiring issue?

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Old 05-16-2017, 06:13 PM   #16
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Something that's likely not related but bothering the heck out of me.. Under my TPS is this vacuum hose that comes off the Dashpot and terminates on top of this thing. It's not sealed in anyway.. and most of the time falls off. What is this? Why is there a screw in it? Does this look right at all?

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Old 05-18-2017, 02:46 PM   #17
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Changed the plugs again and the ignition coil today. The misfire is a LOT better, but it's still there.. just in a different spot now. Only around 2800 RPMs now. The truck was feeling sluggish so I swapped back in the old ignition coil to see if that was it.. It's running better again but the 2800 RPM miss is still there.

On the downside, the exhaust has started popping now. :/

TLDR: Changed spark plugs.. made the miss better, but still there and now exhaust is popping.

I think I can hear a leak around the exhaust manifold when driving.. but when it's idling I can't hear it.. so it's hard to track down if it exists.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:20 PM   #18
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Changed the plugs again and the ignition coil today. The misfire is a LOT better, but it's still there.. just in a different spot now. Only around 2800 RPMs now. The truck was feeling sluggish so I swapped back in the old ignition coil to see if that was it.. It's running better again but the 2800 RPM miss is still there.

On the downside, the exhaust has started popping now. :/

TLDR: Changed spark plugs.. made the miss better, but still there and now exhaust is popping.

I think I can hear a leak around the exhaust manifold when driving.. but when it's idling I can't hear it.. so it's hard to track down if it exists.
In your previous posts you said that you were able to readjust your idle, tps and timing. Is everything at factory specs? Were you able to track down your vacuum leak? Also when you said that you replaced you ignition coil and it helped the misfire but it moved to a different spot, are you referring to RPM or referring to the misfire moving cylinders? If the misfire improved a lot like you said I would leave the new coil in place and verify that the wiring off the ignitor to the ECU isn't damaged (on almost every Toyota I've seen this wiring is damaged as it sits on top of the valve cover and crosses over the exhaust). As far as checking the wiring at the ECU you are correct that it needs to be unbolted. Disconnect the battery, unbolt the ECU from the body, gently pull it back, and pop the connector out that you need access to. Just exercise caution when removing the connectors, try to pull them straight out if possible and avoid rocking it back and forth as this can snap the pins on the ECU.For the possible exhaust leak, I would check for cracks in the header and look at the joint between the header and the Y pipe. If that all checks out, itís probably just time for a new gasket.
Oh, and in your pic that you posted with the vacuum line off the dashpot, it sure doesn't look factory, however my truck is an automatic trans that doesn't have this piece, so I can't confirm.(however looking at it, this could be the source of one of your vacuum leaks.)
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:21 PM   #19
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Figured out what caused the new problems.. it was me.

Forgot to plug back in injector #2 connector. (I was building a harness last night to test the injector spray.) Now that it's plugged back in, all the new problems are gone and the misfire is back.

Guess that means my misfire is probably something to do with #2... I'm thinking injector right now.

Last edited by Saiba Samurai; 05-18-2017 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:06 PM   #20
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Took off the upper intake manifold and pulled the injectors today.

Took some pictures...

What is the bottom connector for? The top has a plug but the bottom is plugged into nothing.
Found this wire just hanging out with no connector...
Lighting is horrible.. but 2 different injectors and a couple show cracks. The o-rings don't match and some were pretty lose.
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