desertdawg39

So, Driving home on the hwy, the 4Runner quickly over heated. I immediately pulled over and notice the radiator was bone dry... So I put some water in it and watch the temp start dropping, but the water level was dropping too. I refilled it again and after waiting about 20+ minutes, I cranked it up and started drviving. Took about a mile to BLOW the water out of the radiator. Immediately pulled back over and called the tow truck.

Once home, I started feeling around and found 2 hoses under the EFI that had split. I replaced them and refilled radiator. With the hood still open, I cranked the engine and it started shooting out water and could hear the belts complaining. So, I thought it was the water pump and replaced it. That didn't help.

I have NO water in the oil, but the engine is acting like it is pushing the compression out the cooling lines. It does not want to crank and I am not forcing it too (feels like a weak charged battery when trying to crank it, but its fully charged). Anyone got any idea??



I have lots of tools and little money, so I am hoping to be able to fix this myself, or willing to moderately brib someone to come help me.

Thanks!!

Sensei

No visible water leaks after you replaced the split hoses ? Have you done a compression test ? Could be a head gasket blown between cylinders or into the coolant passages.

desertdawg39

No visible water leaks at all after replacing the hoses. I filled it up with water and let it sit overnight and no drips on the driveway in the morning.

I have never heard of the HG leaking compression into the water passages before, but thats what it seems like it might be. I am used to the HG blowing coolant into the oil.

So, would that mean a HG swap (with new bolts) and head planed (since it over heated) would fix it? Guess I'd replace the timing chain while I was there.

Thanks!!

Fallingup

Yeah, I'd put my money on the head gasket/head condition. Make sure you check out the head pretty good, I've had a few warp pretty easily on me.

Sensei

I have never heard of the HG leaking compression into the water passages before, but thats what it seems like it might be. I am used to the HG blowing coolant into the oil.

So, would that mean a HG swap (with new bolts) and head planed (since it over heated) would fix it? Guess I'd replace the timing chain while I was there.

Thanks!![/quote]

Not a common occurence such as blowing between cylinders but it does happen. One check would be to fill it up with water, take the rad cap off, run the engine. If you get bubbles then its blowing compression. Another method is to block check with chemical but if you don't have the right equipment you won't get good results.
If you did blow the hg then definately have the head checked for warpage.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Wow lots of speculation here. Sensiei is right. you should find the root of the problem before you go and start replacing head gaskets and such. Definitely if you're broke and have lots of tools. To check for exhaust gasses in the radiator go ahead and rent/buy a kit from the auto parts store that will test that. It uses a fluid that turns from blue to green if there is exhaust present. It's a cheap kit and works well. The tell tail sign of exhaust in the coolant will be bubbles but in your case i bet the coolant system has air in it still due to the leak and will give you a false reading. Best to be sure. Make sure to bleed/burp the cooling system before you start diagnosing the problem and make sure all leaks have been fixed. By the way the coolant lines don't just start rupturing by themselves so might want to check the t-stat before you continue. (burping/bleeding the cooling system can be found by searching as can a test for the t-stat) And of course yes a compression test will help to diagnose as well. Good luck keep us updated.

desertdawg39

When I try cranking the engine now, its doesn't want to. It acts like the battery is weak, but I have it fully charged. Once I get it to fire, it sputters and doesn't want to stay above 700 RPM to idle. I can give it gas, but then the water is shooting out of the Radiator faster and being beside it taking a bath in the spray just plain sucks.

Going to check compression when I get home and have a better idea which cylinder is lossing the pressure, or if its non and is possibly the exhaust.

I have lots of basic and novice tools and know how to use them. I just don't have any specific use tools, besides feeler gauges, torque wrench, ring compress, etc. I have only been working on cars the last 7 years and have been playing catch up to all the younger guys since, BUT I am eager to learn new trouble shooting and repair skills.

I really appreciate the help!!!

Thanks!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

That is the *only* kind of head gasket failures I have seen, both on my Toyota (twice) and on my VW diesel (once). Engine compression pushes into the cooling passages, over pressures the cooling system, radiator cap blows and a bunch of water escapes with it. Two checks are a cooling system pressure test. Gauge on top of radiator and watch for pressure to rise with higher engine RPMs. Or chemical test kit, NAPA carries them. Chemical added to coolant sample changes color if there are combustion gases in the coolant.

heykw

Any update? I am gonna bet on the head gasket.

RAD4Runner

(This is being discussed in another thread, too.)

Agree with 4Crawler and Sensei. Most likely HG.

Water shot out of your radiator with cap off?
There are many "scientific" ways to check, but unless you put in a water pump that is way too strong (which u did not), the only thing that wud cause water to shoot out of your radiator and quickly dry it out wud be compression. You're also having hard start, because you're getting water into at least one cylinder.