richf

Alright so after talking to some of the guys on here about a tick I kept hearing in my engine I decided to go ahead and replace the timing chain, cover, water and oil pump. I got the kit from engine builder. Anyways I broke it all down tonight to find some interesting things.




1.) The timing cover was a factory toyota but it looked like some one had replaced everything once before. I looked further into it and you can see that the old tensioner had broke and the chain did it's magic on the timing chain cover. Anyways the previous owner or who ever did it, did not replace the cover they welded the hole up and re used the cover. (I'll post some pictures tomorrow)

2.) The bolts that hold secure the water pump on are not actually bolts they are studs with nuts. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about this one. Anyone know if this is factory or did the PO half ass this?

3.) The part of the tensioner that touches the chain had some nice grooves in it from the chain. I'm assuming that this is normal but at this point I wouldn't doubt it's not.

874runnersr5

Yeap, there are suppose to be studs with nuts and i also think a couple bolts to..

toyospearo

1. If the welds on the cover are solid and don't interfere with the chain/guides then I say you are golden. If not get a new cover.
2. If you are talking about the 4 studs that attach the fan to the waterpump those are suppose to be studs. If you are talking about the studs that actually secure the water pump to the timing cover, well then those are suppose to be studs and I would replace them. I have tore down a few 22R motors where there WERE bolts instead of studs.
The new waterpump should have new studs in it if not, clean up your old ones and re use them. At least most of the 22re motors I tear down they are studs. Engine builder should have a million of those lying around. If not General Machine, where I work has boat loads of those.
3. The kit you bought from Engine Builder will have a new tensioner, guides, bolts for the guides and tensioner etc. Be sure to carefully label the bolts as you take them off the timing cover. They have to go back in where they came out. And don't forget the bolt up on the top submerged in oil

richf

The old timing cover is fine but I got a new one in the kit so it will be installed. I'm reffering to the (I think) 3 botls that hold the water pump to the new timing cover. The new cover does not have the studs my old one does but I haven't taken everything out the bags inside the box yet cause I didn't want to mix things up.

toyospearo

There are 3 studs with 3 locking nuts and 5 bolts (6mm and 10mm) one of which is the very long bolt that goes into the block with a torque setting of 15.
Here is a photo of one being built at the shop..

richf

Here are some pictures from the install can someone tell me if it looks like I'm going int he right direction or have I ˟˟˟˟ed something up. I would really hate to smash pistons into valves.

874runnersr5

the slack should be on the passenger side

richf

I had read that but can't seem to get it to do it. If I move the chain the shiny links will not be on the timing marks of the sprockets. Am I missing something?

richf

Alright I got the slack out of the chain and everything is ready to go. My only problem is this. The old cover had studs holding the water pump on and the new one requires bolts. Should I just get some bolts or do I need the studs? Here are some pictures so you can see what I'm talking about.

check6

Can't you just switch in studs? If you're in doubt, call or email engnbldr. They'll show you the light. Oh, they told me to add a bit of sealer to the threads of top center oilpump bolt. And make sure it doesn't stick out inside you timing cover...it'll jam the tensioner.

richf

I got everything back together Sunday night and she fired right up. Didn't have to mess with the timing at all. I'm kind of pissed the the ticking noise I have is still there. I thought the timing chain was the suspect but it wasn't. I'm going to adjust the valves one more time while the engine is hot and if that doesn't do it o well.

richf

UTOH!!!!! This can't be to good. I was picking up the shop and found this.

I'm guessing it is the alternator bracket. The thing went in fine with out it. weird? Is this the alternator bracket?

HighLux

power steering pump bracket...take a look here.... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

shows a pic of it....and then where it goes....

toyospearo

I am in the process of doing my timing chain on my 82. I converted to a dual row
Here are a few pics of it and that bracket you left out..




and the new dual row minus the tensioner and guides...

richf

damn I hope I don't have to take the radiator back out to put this in.

toyospearo

I don't think you have to pull the radiator. You will have to pull the PS pump and the alternator to get that piece to slide down in there.

richf

thanks for the help.

abeD85flatbed

I have built several 22R and 22RE motors over the past 12 years and every time i intentionally leave that bracket out. the PS pump would have to crack the head to have a problem. I know I'm going to get hate mail for the remark, but that bracket is junk. save yourself some trouble and leave the thing off.

Bring on the haters!

toyospearo

I put mine back on this morning and couldn't for the life of me figure out what good it was doing. It was just another PITA thing to deal with. Hell, I say leave it off. If it's ok?

richf

ok now that flat bed said it I will as well. The power steering pump is already held on by 3 bolts. 1 on the front and 2 on the drivers side of the head. I feel the same way about the bracket as you guys do. It's almost like it's a fail safe. I'm going to role without it and see what happens. I thought it was kind of interesting that the whole thing went together fine and I found this bracket after I already started the engine and did a burn out.