jhsantacruz63

Hello, I have a 1985 4x4 pickup with a new long block 22re that I just put in. I have only driven the truck about 100 miles since the install but noticed that the coolant temp doesn't stay above 160. The only time its gone about 160 was on the freeway going up a hill it climbed to about 170-175 then once I cleared the hill it dropped back down to 160. I have a new electric water temp gauge and I previously had a mechanical gauge on the old engine and both the new and old engine are running at the 160 mark. I replaced the mechanical one with the electric when I changed the engines because I thought that it was possibly reading incorrectly since it seemed to run alright and didn't have any idling issues and the heater blew hot air.

When I installed the engine I put in a new thermostat from my local auto parts store and was told it is an OEM one. I don't know what temp it was, but Im going to find out. It has a newer radiator in it and water pump (both about a year old) and I installed all new radiator hoses. The truck seems to run alright, no abnormal idling but may be running a little rich. The idle air control valve seems to operate correctly as well. I currently have the temp sensor in the location below the instate manifold where the stock sender goes but I can also put it in the intake tube above the thermostat.

Any help would be great because I can't seem to figure this one out and I haven't found anything online that has the same problem Im having.
Thanks
-Jeremy

Charchee

I bet you ended up with a 160 degree thermostat. They may have sold you one for a 22R. A lot of times the parts store computers focus more on the fit of the part as apposed to the actual recommended spec at which it is supposed to operate. When I bought my last thermostat from a parts house, they asked me whether I wanted a 160 or a 180. Neither of which is as high as specified.

jhsantacruz63

Thanks, Im going to check into that. I meant to ask but totally forgot when I got it because I was getting a bunch of other parts. I forgot to mention also that it has a new fan clutch and I don't think I have air in the cooling system but haven't put it on a hill yet to attempt bleeding it. When I filled the cooling system I removed one of the heater hoses and filled the radiator/engine then reconnected the hose. the coolant level hasn't changed in the 100 miles Ive driven so far either.
Thanks again!

Charchee

Yea, double check the spec on that thermostat. You should have the air burped out by now. You did run the heater while filling it didn't you? Regardless, air in the system would more likely block the coolant flow and cause it to run hotter than normal rather than cooler.

jhsantacruz63

Thanks for the help. Sure enough when I removed the thermostat that I just put in and it was a 160... put a 190 in and seems to be perfect. It always pays to make sure of what your getting

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I've had bad thermostats from parts store before. So I've gotten in the habit of testing thermostat in a pan of water prior to installing. FSM describes procedure. Just a FWIW

Charchee

I believe I'm going to adopt that habit as well. I already test all of the electronic components I buy before installing. I learned that lesson after working in the rain and mud for four days on a piece of equipment only to find that the first switch I replaced turned out to be bad from the factory. I also load test new batteries in my equipment if the installation is going to be difficult or dangerous. Don't want to be doing it twice.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

think I'll adopt the electrical test, haven't been bitten by that one but rather not.