84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

22re died while driving, won't start

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Old 03-30-2017, 12:22 PM
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22re died while driving, won't start

First off, I'll start by saying I've read every thread I could get my hands on, here and otherwise. I'm just flat out of ideas.

85 4rnr, 22re. Just driving her down the road, then out of the blue she lost most power. No sounds, smells, shutters, anything. Pulled over, and wouldn't start. Turns over without any issue. Ended up flat towing her home. She's been running like a top until this.

All fuses are good. Swapped EFI relay, no luck. Have fuel coming out of the cold start injector, and fuel pump seems to be happy. Cap and rotor look great. Pulled valve cover, timing chain and valves look good. Replaced the plugs, and I have spark at all four. Have continuity on all 3 wires running from the ECU to the ignitor. Signal generator ohms out correctly. Swapped over coil, ignitor, ECU, rotor, and AFM from another truck, none helped. My ECU would allow another truck to start and run. I have 12v at the ballast resistor, and at all injectors. Have 12v at N10 and N20 at the ECU, and continuity between E01, E02, and ground. Also tried unplugging AFM and/or TPS, with no luck.

Right now the truck is sitting with all her own parts in. But to my mind, I have spark, fuel, timing, and air. I did finger test compression when doing the plugs, and nothing felt out of the norm.

Anyone have any other ideas? I'm plumb out.
Old 03-30-2017, 01:54 PM
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Just for giggles, you could try baby feeding it, aka throw a little gas down the intake. If it stumbles/fires you know it's fuel delivery or injectors.

Seems you've covered most electronic things, so all I can think of is mechanical like fuel delivery. You'd need enough pressure and flow for the injectors to work correctly, internally they could get plugged up etc. Kind of weird for all to go bad at once though. Igniter could be bad to, was the one you swapped in the same part number? I've heard they changed the pin out a couple times.
Old 03-30-2017, 02:27 PM
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I tried shooting some stating fluid down her throat yesterday, with no luck. Just tried again, and still nothing. Not even a try. The ignitor ohmed out ok per FSM tests. The other one was also off of a 85 (maybe 86?) I can feel fuel pressure in the lines, and when I cracked the fuel filter, it spirted out like a stuck pig.

One question I did have though. When the cold start injector fires, it should be firing with the other 4, correct? That's the only thing I'd really like do is throw a noid light on, but I don't have one, or really access to one. Nor a decent way to make one out of an LED or other dash light. But I also can't think that all 4 injectors died at the exact same time, especially when they all have power, and N10 and N20 do as well. You can absolutely smell fuel when I crank it for 5sec.

Last edited by PltJett; 03-30-2017 at 02:50 PM.
Old 03-30-2017, 02:59 PM
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Sounds like you lost your ignition exciter or whatever it is called. It is the single most expensive part on a 22r, I'm guessing it is the same on yours as mine. I was driving down the road and it was just like someone turned the ignition off. My manual had the steps to take to test it. Here is a link to the part I am talking about:
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2997088434935063110?q=22r+ignition+exciter&safe=ac tive&biw=1600&bih=784&bav=on.2,or.&bvm=bv.15132523 2,d.cGw&tch=1&ech=1&psi=x4zdWNSYEOuM0wKt5baACQ.149 0914504132.5&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiws9a7qf_SAhWmrFQKHZS _DzAQ8wIInwEwAQ


Good luck,

grey
Old 03-30-2017, 04:46 PM
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That just looks like the ignitor to me? But with more leads than I have. I did all three tests for the ignitor that my FSM has, and all three came back nominal. I didn't try to start the truck with the dizzy leads spoofed, just because I needed another set of hands for that.
Old 03-30-2017, 05:15 PM
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Can you take a photo or scan the FSM. I've seen people talk about ohm readings twice, but yet no one has the specs. The newer ones don't have a ohm test, it's a signal in, signal out type of setup on them, the older ones I'd assume is the same way, but maybe I'm wrong? If you were able to swap the ecu to another machine to test, then try the ignitor on the running machine and see what happens.

I don't have any wire diagrams for this old of truck, furthest back I can get is 1990
Old 03-31-2017, 08:06 AM
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I'll do you one better. Here is the link to the one I'm currently using.
http://www.truckporn.com/tech/FSM/Toyota/1985fsm.zip

Technically, it isn't an ohm test. You basically just make sure you have 12v at the positive and negative terminals at the coil when grounded to the ignitor body. The last test is to take the lead that goes to the dizzy, and put 1.5v down the pink wire from either a AA or AAA. Positive on the pink, negative on the white. Then read the voltage from negative terminal on the coil, and the body ground. Should be between 5-8v.

All three of those check out for me.
Old 03-31-2017, 02:11 PM
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Just sharing my experience with my 85 two wheel drive 22R Truck.

Good luck,

grey
Old 06-24-2017, 04:31 AM
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so whats the outcome ? I'm in the same situation.
Old 06-27-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PltJett
First off, I'll start by saying I've read every thread I could get my hands on, here and otherwise. I'm just flat out of ideas.

85 4rnr, 22re. Just driving her down the road, then out of the blue she lost most power. No sounds, smells, shutters, anything. Pulled over, and wouldn't start. Turns over without any issue. Ended up flat towing her home. She's been running like a top until this.

All fuses are good. Swapped EFI relay, no luck. Have fuel coming out of the cold start injector, and fuel pump seems to be happy. Cap and rotor look great. Pulled valve cover, timing chain and valves look good. Replaced the plugs, and I have spark at all four. Have continuity on all 3 wires running from the ECU to the ignitor. Signal generator ohms out correctly. Swapped over coil, ignitor, ECU, rotor, and AFM from another truck, none helped. My ECU would allow another truck to start and run. I have 12v at the ballast resistor, and at all injectors. Have 12v at N10 and N20 at the ECU, and continuity between E01, E02, and ground. Also tried unplugging AFM and/or TPS, with no luck.

Right now the truck is sitting with all her own parts in. But to my mind, I have spark, fuel, timing, and air. I did finger test compression when doing the plugs, and nothing felt out of the norm.

Anyone have any other ideas? I'm plumb out.
I was going to suggest you check the fuel pump until I read your post, wow you did it all, try some starter fluid and if it turns over you could be the victim of a bad joke, is it possible someone put water in your tank?
Googer
Old 06-27-2017, 07:44 PM
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