WD_40

I have a 1985 4Runner with a 22-RE that has had a noisy valve train for awhile. I finally got around to adjusting valve lash and now it won't run at all.

I set the gaps to .008 intake and .012 exhaust, replaced the valve cover gasket and the bolted it back down. Unfortunately I don't have a torque wrench that measures in inch pounds, so I finger-tightened the valve cover bolts and then gave them another quarter turn. Some vacuum lines come unhooked while I was moving things around, but I'm fairly confident I have everything hooked up correctly now.

Now when I start the truck it fires right up and sounds great (no more clattering that I can tell) but only runs for a couple seconds before it starts stumbling and dies. I thought I might not have tightened the valve cover enough, so I gave it another 1/4 turn (half turn total). There was no appreciable difference after tightening the nuts.

I think the nuts are properly tightened and the vacuum hoses appear to be correct. What should I check next? Did I do a horrible job of setting the gaps or what?

annoyingrob

Feel aroud the back of the head just below the timing cover in the middle. There's a half circle rubber plug there. It's possible you knocked it out putting the valve cover back on, and created a huge vacuum leak. I know I've done that before, and did a lot of head scratching.

fishon1213

Make sure when you set the valve clearance the piston for that particular valve is at TDC. You will have to turn the motor over by hand. Or something like that.... Uh, hu hu

WD_40

Good tip on the half moon, annoying. I felt back there and it is in place, although it's leaking, so I should probably replace that soon.

I did have it at TDC when I gapped the first set of valves, then I rotated the engine to do the remaining valves. I turned it 360 degrees like I read about, but the same sets of valves were loose/tight as before, so I just turned the engine until the valves I needed to work on were free. Is that where I went wrong?

WD_40

Update: I just ran through the entire procedure again and took the opportunity to apply some RTV to the rear half moon seal. I got everything put back together and I'm still having the same problem. It starts, runs for a second or two and then stutters and dies. Giving it gas doesn't help to keep it alive.

What should I check next?

olharleyman

your vacuum lines then the afm for air leaks sounds like you have an air related issue somewhere in your system

annoyingrob

Make sure the connector to the AFM is plugged in. Make sure the intake hose from the AFM to the throttle body is properly seated, and tight.

taconasty

can you grab a couple pics of the motor or engine bay?

WD_40

Winner! I had unplugged the AFM connector to change the air filter and forgot to plug it back in. Thanks for the suggestion; sometimes you just need the obvious pointed out.

I've adjusted lash 3 times now: once hot and once cold. After the cold adjustment (and plugging the AFM back in) it ran really well. It started easily, idled nicely and had good power, but the valve clatter was LOUD! It sounded like a frickin' diesel, so I ran it up to temp and adjusted lash for a 3rd time. Now it doesn't start quite as well, it idles a bit rough and the valves are still loud.

I have a feeling the valve adjustment is probably as good as it's going to get and I'm probably chasing my own tail at this point. Should I adjust lash -again- or should I start looking in other areas to improve idle? It should be noted that this is my first attempt at setting valve lash, so I'm not 100% confident I've done it correctly. I suspect I may be setting the gaps a little too high.

bigt

sounds like his afm is unplgued my 22re did that.
it wont turn on your fule pump
jump +fb + b to test

olharleyman

Now that you have it running check all your vacuum lines and air intake connections see if you have a small leak somewhere or if you have one or two of the vacuum lines crossed.