KLM

Hello all,

I recently picked up an 84 xtra cab 4x4 with 135k on the clock. Super straight sheet metal with the exception of the typical cancer on the bed. I have known the previous owners for 20 years, who had bought it new. I am really happy with the truck, and for $500 I can't complain. Anyway, on to the question. I recently started hearing what sounded like some timing chain slap from the front so last night I popped the valve cover to check it out and sure enough the plastic guides are shot. The chain has worn the cover a little but not into the water jacket yet. The truck sat a lot over the last 10 years or so and the majority of the gaskets are dry and leaking, valve cover and oil pan for sure from what I can see right off. So my question is, I haven't done one of these timing chains before, I have seen several great write ups on it so I am not too worried there. My question is how much longer would it take to just pull the motor since most of the junk on the front end has to come off anyway? Pulling it would sure make it easier to do the gaskets and I could get a good look at the seals that way as well. I could also get all of the old oil residue cake off the motor and clean it up easier as well... Anyway, just looking for some advice from someone that has done a timing chain and has also pulled the motor so as to get an idea of time. Thanks in advance.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Pulling the motor makes the job a lot easier, but pulling the motor isn't exactly easy either. In order to pull the motor, you have to take everything off that you normally would to do the timing chain (ie: fan, fan shroud, radiator hoses, throttle, etc.) It would take about the same amount of time to pull the motor as it would to do it in the engine bay given the fact that it is a real PITA to do the timing chain in such minimal space in the engine bay. Just label everything appropriately and pull it, especially if you want to do some spring cleaning.

KLM

Thats what I was wondering since it doesnt seem that there is an over abundance of space to do the chain replacement with the core support and all of that 6 inches away. The largest issue I am concerned about when pulling the motor is the dreaded exhaust manifold bolts, maybe it would be better to pull them at the collector rather than pulling the manifold off the head? Also, anyone have an idea where I can get a good stock rebuilt carb for this motor? Thanks again for the responses.

rckcrwlr45

Its easy to pull the front grille and radiator and replace all the components that way. Plus you can power wash the engine down to clean.

Rusto

I recently changed the rear main seal, front main seal. oil pan gasket (by removing it and just using black silcon), valve cover gasket, timing chain and all the gaskets associated there, along with the clutch. Basically I changed almost every seal/gasket from the rear diff to the radiator.
I did it without removing the engine, but I did drop the tranny out.

I felt I had plenty of room to change the timing chain just by removing the fan shroud, radiator and fan.

My theory has, and will remain - don't take something out or tear it apart if you don't need to do so.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I hope you used Ultra Black. Normal black silicone isn't oil resistant and it will start to leak.

Rusto

I used the correct stuff. Just couldn't remember the name when I was typing.

KLM

Thanks guys for all of the information, I am hesitant as well to remove the exhaust, I grew up around a machine shop where my uncle frequently removed broken exhaust studs, always seemed like a nightmare. I will probably take the grill, radiator and fan out and look it over real good before going any farther. Need to do a compression test soon to see if its even worth throwing a chain on before a rebuild. Thanks again and if anyone else has comments I would love to read them. Thanks.

KLM

Okay guys I have one more question. I have found several very good resources on doing the timing chain replace on the 22r but every one I have found pertains to the 1985 and newer 22r. My truck is an 84 and from what I understand the engines are different in terms of torque specs and physical dimensions. Can anyone give me some guidance on the difference in process of replacing a timing kit? is it pretty much the same as far as making sure it is at TDC? what are the differences in torque specs? I guess that is more than one quesion... Thanks anyway.