22r running horribly
#21
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No idea on miles. Previous owner told me the guy before him rebuilt it at some point but that is all he knew. Pistons tell that is the truth they are marked 20 over. The head gasket was not very old at all that's for sure.. The valves are factory valves. I'm wondering if he just did the bottom end? Although I don't know who would rebuild just a bottom end.. not sure what's going on here. Compression numbers were great. 155-160 in the other 3 cylinders. Was the leak down numbers I didn't get. And yes regardless I plan on getting the head a complete makeover. As well as timing chain
#22
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Yup like you said while I'm this far..... all new valves, seats, guides and seals. The cam looks to be in great shape. Rockers look like rockers. Not sure how to tell if they're worn out per say. Have plenty of meat on them.
#23
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Look at the face of the rockers where they can wear or gall. I would only replace the valves that need replacing - but that's just me.
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What would you do if you were in my situation? As far as the head goes, what would you have them do at the machine shop and what would you replace? Just curious and open to suggestions. First time I've had a valve problem
#25
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Why is that? Seems like one of those things if one fails replace the others while your at it..
What would you do if you were in my situation? As far as the head goes, what would you have them do at the machine shop and what would you replace? Just curious and open to suggestions. First time I've had a valve problem
What would you do if you were in my situation? As far as the head goes, what would you have them do at the machine shop and what would you replace? Just curious and open to suggestions. First time I've had a valve problem
Have the machine shop establish what happened and what parts are good and reusable and which aren't. For me if a good machine shop says a part is reusable I would reuse it - same with rocker arms. The seals are disposable items as are the guides. Valves can be reused after lapping in. But if most of the valves are on the edge of tolerance then do them all. Also make sure the studs are in good shape.
Another completely different thing you could do, if it interests you, is porting or port matching. I haven't done this kind of work on a 22R so I don't know if there are significant gains to be made. You would do this after the head has been machined, if it needs it. Then return the head to the shop for cleaning and assembly. If you do port I would go with a header.
#26
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First, what is you intent for the truck - is it a keeper or are you thinking of selling it (presumably for a profit)?
Have the machine shop establish what happened and what parts are good and reusable and which aren't. For me if a good machine shop says a part is reusable I would reuse it - same with rocker arms. The seals are disposable items as are the guides. Valves can be reused after lapping in. But if most of the valves are on the edge of tolerance then do them all. Also make sure the studs are in good shape.
Another completely different thing you could do, if it interests you, is porting or port matching. I haven't done this kind of work on a 22R so I don't know if there are significant gains to be made. You would do this after the head has been machined, if it needs it. Then return the head to the shop for cleaning and assembly. If you do port I would go with a header.
Have the machine shop establish what happened and what parts are good and reusable and which aren't. For me if a good machine shop says a part is reusable I would reuse it - same with rocker arms. The seals are disposable items as are the guides. Valves can be reused after lapping in. But if most of the valves are on the edge of tolerance then do them all. Also make sure the studs are in good shape.
Another completely different thing you could do, if it interests you, is porting or port matching. I haven't done this kind of work on a 22R so I don't know if there are significant gains to be made. You would do this after the head has been machined, if it needs it. Then return the head to the shop for cleaning and assembly. If you do port I would go with a header.
#27
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Found some more issues..
Pulled timing cover off and the timing chain guide was broken in half barely hanging on. And the collar on the smaller oil pump gear is snapped in half!
Oil pan has to come off to replace gasket and remove any timing guide...
Seriously having second thought on rebuilding the whole thing.. I would hate to put it back together as is and have bottom end fail.
Pulled timing cover off and the timing chain guide was broken in half barely hanging on. And the collar on the smaller oil pump gear is snapped in half!
Oil pan has to come off to replace gasket and remove any timing guide...
Seriously having second thought on rebuilding the whole thing.. I would hate to put it back together as is and have bottom end fail.
#28
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Found some more issues..
Pulled timing cover off and the timing chain guide was broken in half barely hanging on. And the collar on the smaller oil pump gear is snapped in half!
Oil pan has to come off to replace gasket and remove any timing guide...
Seriously having second thought on rebuilding the whole thing.. I would hate to put it back together as is and have bottom end fail.
Pulled timing cover off and the timing chain guide was broken in half barely hanging on. And the collar on the smaller oil pump gear is snapped in half!
Oil pan has to come off to replace gasket and remove any timing guide...
Seriously having second thought on rebuilding the whole thing.. I would hate to put it back together as is and have bottom end fail.
When you get the pan off loosely reassemble all the broken parts. If you don't have any missing pieces you're most likely OK. Pull off the oil pump and give it a good cleaning too.
#29
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The guide seems to break on a lot of them, it did on mine. Nothing to sweat over. I don't recall reading about the collar on the smaller oil pump gear breaking.
When you get the pan off loosely reassemble all the broken parts. If you don't have any missing pieces you're most likely OK. Pull off the oil pump and give it a good cleaning too.
When you get the pan off loosely reassemble all the broken parts. If you don't have any missing pieces you're most likely OK. Pull off the oil pump and give it a good cleaning too.
#30
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Another question, is the oil pan supposed to sit on the tie rod like thos or do I got a major steering/suspension issue
Last edited by Shagool22; 03-26-2017 at 06:12 PM.
#31
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No it shouldn't be touching at all - could be old or incorrect motor mounts too.
#33
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#34
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If the head ends up warped beyond use, I have a head off a 95 pickup that should be in good shape. Rocker assembly and cam were within new spec, engine had a spun bearing right after a rebuild. Odometer was 16xk. On the rebuilt engine, it's timing belt guides where slightly broken too. I think there's metal ones you can buy, but haven't searched it much.
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Back to the tie rod rubbing oil pan, I can find anything that's wrong.. here's a pic of my motor mount.. do you see any issues or are they wrong? And thanks for the luck. I'm gonna need it on this build lol. Previous owner did a hack job on most of it
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More carnage..., blows me away how good this truck ran with multiple bad valves, snapped oil pump gear, broken timing chain guide and now just found a snapped valve spring. Decided to pull all the valves out since I had a min and found this.. #3 exhaust valve
330k on valve train I'd say it's time to replace lol
330k on valve train I'd say it's time to replace lol
#38
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On the motor mounts it looks OK, but maybe not the right part. But that's just a guess. MAYBE the right one is thicker? I would pickup a known correct one and compare them - return if you don't need it.
#39
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More carnage..., blows me away how good this truck ran with multiple bad valves, snapped oil pump gear, broken timing chain guide and now just found a snapped valve spring. Decided to pull all the valves out since I had a min and found this.. #3 exhaust valve
330k on valve train I'd say it's time to replace lol
330k on valve train I'd say it's time to replace lol
#40
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I just pulled engine mounts off a 86 22re. Driver's side bracket uses a bracket (Power steering I think?) to space out for the offset. Passenger side had two thick washers that appeared to be the same thickness. This is the engine mount bracket to engine block. The engine appears to have been freshly redone, and the engine mounts look pretty clean and not rusted up, just oil covered. If you want I could send them to ya with the brackets etc for fairly cheap if you want to give them a shot. There's no marks on the oil pan that I can see anything rubbing, but this is a 4x4 pickup.
Also have the oil pump drive gear and such, looks like it's all in good shape.
Also have the oil pump drive gear and such, looks like it's all in good shape.