farrier

I was coming home last week when I heard a small clunk from engine bay, and slowly lost power and finally died when I came to a stop along shoulder of road.
Got it towed home and saw it was not getting any gas to carb. So replaced fuel pump and now getting gas.
Then tried to start and then no spark. Coil tested good. Getting 11.74V to igniter. Hooked back up + connector to test to see if I'm getting power to transistor (yellow) connector on igniter. It showed 0.6 V. So I replaced igniter.
Installed new igniter and shows the same 0.6V reading.
Any thoughts?
Thank you.

1983 SR5 4x4

farrier

I don't understand the low reading I'm getting, but I did confirm I have spark from coil wire to ground.
Pulled dist cap and rotor not turning while motor is cranking.
Pulled distributor and shaft and gear look ok. I can turn the gear and rotor turns.
I'm not savvy to the 22R internals, but guessing some gear inside broke or fell off?

farrier

Broken timing chain,

L5wolvesf

That sucks. It is a bit of a time consuming job but not hard really. Good luck.

farrier

Been doing a lot of reading on this subject.
I was doing about 65 mph and pulling a small trailer when it went.
I'm guessing new valves or even a new head?
I'll try to pull head tomorrow and post some pics.

L5wolvesf

Hopefully just the chain - pics will tell if there is more.

83

Wow. Now that you say what it ended up being, it all makes sense...The fuel pump runs off the movement of the cam driven by the timing chain, etc. Crazy.

Yeah it's typically not a good thing when it breaks. Will be interesting to see what the damage is.

farrier

Man for a little truck there sure is a lot of stuff in the way.
I'm thinking maybe do a smog delete since I'm this far into it.
FSM wanted me to pull the head with both manifolds still attached. Really? I didn't do that.
Anyway this what it looked like with the valve cover off.
Don't think that port is supposed to be clogged with carbon.
And some pics of the block and head.

83

Hard for me to tell if there's damage. Someone who has seen more of these engines will have a better idea. I don't see anything obvious but don't know exactly what to look for if it doesn't just jump right out.

Pretty sure the clogged port is the EGR. Pretty much a given that it will be clogged at this point unless some previous owner cleaned it out over the years.

On my 20R, I did get the head off with the manifolds still attached. Saves some work, but man it adds a lot of weight, and you're already bent way over the engine compartment, in a bad position for lifting heavy stuff...

L5wolvesf

Make sure you have the complete chain and guide assembly when you take it off. Pieces missing can end up in the pan.
I don't see anything terrible, but clean it up then look it over.

If you don't have to smog it and don't care about what a potential buyer might have to do, then do the smog delete.

farrier

I'm no expert, but I can't see where any valve hit any piston.
If they hit, would it let a mark? Still bend a valve?
Since I'm right there, after I check for cracks and warping, maybe just replace valves, seats, stem seals, ect?
I plan on keeping truck a long time, barring any unforeseen complications.
Any benefit of a performance cam in a 22R?
Thanks 83 and Wolves

L5wolvesf

If they hit, would it let a mark? Yes, clean off the piston tops to see if there is a scar.
Still bend a valve? A quick, but not definitive, test is - turn the valves by hand while in the head and see if there is a wobble.
maybe just replace valves, seats, stem seals, ect? I just replace what needs replacing. If the valves and seats are good I would reuse them. Replace the guides they do wear some.

farrier

On further inspection, exhaust valves on # 1 @ 2 are bent, along with intake valve on # 4. Very slight marks on pistons.
Should have worn my glasses first time.

farrier

Few more pics with my glasses on.
Sorry the pics are about as fuzzy as my eyesight.

farrier

What's the odds of damage to pistons, rods, etc?
I will probably get new head. I don't have the confidence to replace valve train parts.
Thanks.

L5wolvesf

What's the odds of damage to pistons, rods, etc?
The nicks on the pistons aren't a big concern, but if they have a ridge try to file it down/off - carefully. Don't let filings get away from you.
If the nicks are small probably didn't effect the rods.

You only have some parts damaged not the head. Take it to a good machine shop and have them asses it and quote a price.

farrier

Thank you wolves.
As I progress I'll start a new thread.

kevin11mic

Clean it up. Desmog it, new head or have yours rebuilt at a reputable machine shop (the early 22R heads are hard to come by). Throw it back together with a new timing chain and guide and your good for another 100k miles.
If your on a real budget throw a new timing chain and guides and replace the valves that are bent and put it back together. It will probably be fine looking at the pictures. Roll the cam by hand and make sure everything moves as it should before closing it all up.
However, I do recommend de-smogging with a weber 32/36 carb if your state allows it. It cleans up the engine bay and gets rid of lots of potential vacuum leaks. I'm in Texas and anything older than 25 years is a safety inspection only.

farrier

Thanks, Kevin.
Sounds like a good plan to me.