Originally Posted by 83

I'm not positive there's a way by looking at the outside of it to know if it's a 50 or 52...so you just need to know it came from an 83.

Originally Posted by BigMike

Check out our Transmission Input Bearing Identification Chart at the bottom of this page.

L45 4-speed (what you have) and a L50 5-speed both use either a 63/32N input bearing or a 032-2.

The L52 5-speed, which was only available in 1983, has a slightly stronger input bearing with either B32-14UR or 32BC08S1N part number written on the bearing race.

You will need to remove the nose cone from the transmission to expose and read the numbers from the input bearing race.

Really pulling the front nose cone is going to be the best way to ID the transmission.

Regards,
BigMike

Originally Posted by BigMike

Bingo. But you'll never know what the previous owner did to the truck and it's possible someone could have slapped in a L50 junkyard special into their '83 Hilux.

There actually is a way to know if the transmission is from an 83 simply by reading the serial number stamped into the bottom of the cast iron housing. If the first and second digits are 211 or 212, or if the first number is a 3, then 100% no questions asked it is a L52.

Regards,
BigMike

Originally Posted by JustDSM

Quoted from PBB:

Pickup and 4Runner Transmissions with 1st gear ratios.
L43 4 speed 79 - 80 3.67
L45 4 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L50 5 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L52 5 speed 83 3.93
G52 & G54 5 speed 84 - 88 (Carb) 3.93
W56 5 speed 85 - 95 (EFI) 3.95 Manual Hub Equipped Vehicles 89 and up Have W56, 89 and up ADD vehicles have G58.
R151F 5 speed 86 - 87 (turbo only) 4.31
G58 5 speed 89 - 95 3.93 ADD Equipped Vehicles
R150F (6 cyl) 5 speed 88+ 3.83

Identification:
G52/54 84-88' are twin stick, use a 8 bolt center section, 6 bolt gear t/case pattern, 21 spline output.
G58 89-95' twin stick, 8 bolt center, 9 bolt chain t/case, 26 spline
W56 85-88' (single stick), 89-95' (twin stick), 10 bolt center, 6 bolt t/case, 21 spline
R151F 86 - 87 (turbo only) will have two housings of four bolts each just like a G52, the difference would be the large rubber plug on the bottom of the bellhousing.

Info provided by Marlin Crawler
All 84 to 95 22R trans are 25.5" long including the bellhousing. The only shorter trans is the 79-83 year trans which are 20.75" long with bellhousing. These early short trans have had a poor service record due in part to their small bearings and lighter gears. The 82-83 L52 5 speed which had a 80 x 20 mm front input bearing has had the best service record. A number of years ago, I invented a way to install a oversize 80 x 23 mm input bearing with an inproved gear set which features a greater helix angle for added strenght. I call it my L52HD and is the strongest 20.75" long trans.

Originally Posted by 83

Part of this was posted by others over at the Marlin site, but I added to it & figure we could use our own swap thread over here in the pre-84 area. I think '79-81 trucks are different, but if you have an '82 or '83 with the "newer" style gauge, this will work.

**EDIT: The person who made this list came up with the numbers by counting every slot in the plug. The FSM numbers them differently because it only counts slots that have a wire in them, so don't try to compare the two or you'll get confused like I did!
It also seems better to use the wire #, as opposed to color, since some seem to be different. I'll post at the end of this thread what wire color I've got in what #slot. For that part I used the numbers from the FSM, not from this list below. Feel free to post here or PM me with any questions.

SR5----------Non-SR5---------Wire Color----Function

1<-----------------1-------------->GY------------>Right turn signal
2
3<-----------------3-------------->BR(B BR)------->Speed Sensor (-)
4<-----------------6-------------->GL------------->Speed Senson (+)
5
6
7<-----------------23------------->YG-------------->Water Temp
8<-----------------9-------------->RW-------------->Panel Lights (+)
9<----------------15-------------->YR--------------->Fuel Gauge
10<---------------12-------------->Y---------------->Ignition switch power
11<---------------21-------------->YB--------------->Oil Idiot Light
12<---------------22-------------->YW-------------->Charge Light
13<---------------14-------------->WB-------------->Ground
14<--------------------------------------------------Tach-must run a wire
15<---------------17----------------GB---------------Left Turn Signal
16----------------16----------------RB---------------Panel Lights (-)
17
18
19<---------------11---------------G-------------------4wd
20
21<---------------19---------------BY------------------Seat Belt
22
23<---------------13---------------RG------------------High Beam
24<---------------20---------------GW-----------------Brake

So if you get an SR5 cluster and simply plug it in to your truck, any of these wires that aren't the same number won't work. When I just plugged my cluster in, the right turn signal was all that worked. So you need to pull the wires from the corresponding number out of the plug and re-insert them into the SR5 location.


This shows what the back of the cluster looks like and the wire numbers. It also, if you can see it, shows you where the separate oil & volt cluster hooks in.



So to get the oil gauge & voltmeter working, you need to splice into the main cluster wires. You could get away with just splicing into hot wires here and there, but I liked doing it the way it would have been if it had been wired for it from the factory.

Back of gauges


Cut & labled


Connectors


My voltmeter ended up having some different wire colors than the FSM page listed, but they were all in the right location in the plug, so it was easy to figure out.
What I came up with after looking over the diagram is this, as far as what wires to tie the mini-cluster into:
Mini-------------Main
19 & 21(oil)---------->17
18 & 22-------------->6
21(volt) & 23--------->12
24------------------->Oil sending unit (SR5 model for GAUGE, not idiot light)
20------------------->Ground

Notice there is a #21 in each gauge for some reason.

If you want the oil idiot light and gauge to work, you need both sending units; one hooked up to the main cluster (switch), one hooked up to the new oil gauge (gauge). I just left the idiot light out..

Splicing into main cluster


Connecting to mini-cluster (I used 16 gauge wire)


I'll need to pull the part that connects the wire to the oil sending unit off a truck in a junk yard & splice it in, but for now I just have the wire wrapped around the sending unit and it works fine, but I'm guessing it'll eventually vibrate off if I leave it that way. That's it, mine works great.




***Here are my wire color locations (using the FSM slot #'s)

1___2___3___4___
G___BY__RG__GW

5___6___7___8___9___10___11___12
YR__Y___YB__G__WB__Tach_GB___RB

13___14___15___16___17
GY__Br____GL___YG__RW

Remember, B is black, Br is brown, L is blue.

Originally Posted by DeathCougar

motors are also lower compression than the NA motors,

Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r

you do realize the 22re head is quite different then the 22rte head right?

1985 - 1995 22R-22RE Cylinder Head
Square Intake Port
Pear Shape Exhaust Port
52/54 C.C. Combustion Chamber
82/83 C.C. Chamber (Turbo)
Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

Centramatic wheel balancers...4Crawler is the only member I am aware of that runs these things, they are basically automatic wheel balancers, no need to have a butt load of lead on your wheels or running air soft pellets or something like that, truckers have reported getting 200K out of a set of tires.
I figure with the rock rash my tires have, they would transfer to other sets of tires/truck...help eliminate some handling issues these are kind of must have at some point. I have thrown a wheel weight a few times.
They are $199 plus shipping
Centramatic FAQ: http://www.centramatic.com/Page.aspx?page=FAQ
how they work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ullnFQD4F1I

Originally Posted by vova

Here's anothers to use:

GEO TRACKER 1996
GALLON: 11
DIMENISON: 27 3/8 x 13 1/2 x 10

1994-1997 Toyota Corolla
13 Gal.
(23 x 37-1/2 x 8 1/2"),

1985-94, FUEL TANK, S10 BLAZER, S15 JIMMY, (W/ FI),
Dimension: 33" x 22" x 8-7/8"
Gallons: 13.2

87-91 Toyota Camry Gas Tank 13.5 Gal
Capacity: 13.5 Gallons/51 Liters
Dimensions: 38 X 23 1/2 X 8 inches

1985-87 Gas Tank 14 Gal GTS Coupe
Capacity: 14 Gallons/52 Liters
Dimensions: 33 1/8 X 21 X 9 1/2 inches

GMC S-15 Jimmy Gas Tank 13.2 Gal 2.5L 2.8L 85-87
US Gallon 13.2
Liter 50.0
Size 33" x 22" x 8 7/8"'

Originally Posted by ErikB

I just spent some time looking at Ford tanks. I think there's some confusion on these... :confused:

The e250 tanks were supposedly 34x23x9", but I couldn't find one like that.



I ended up with a rear tank from a '93 F150. It measures 34.5" x 26.5" x 8". It looks exactly the same as the one Harry put in his truck, but I never actually measured his and I'm not sure he did either. I'm not sure it holds 22 gallons, seems too small.


the ones I found from Ford vans looked like the pictures clutter1 posted and measured 34" x 23" x 11". This one is probably the 22 gallon one (definitely holds more than the one above anyway). Good size, but thicker than I wanted.

The F150 tank is nice and thin and shouldn't hang down much. Its actually a little less than 8" thick at the thick end, and the other end is closer to 7". Unfortunately, putting the thin end towards the rear to minimize dragging also puts the filler on the wrong side. I guess I'll see how it works out...
Hopefully this info will help somebody.

Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r

Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r

Simpler answer use one of these part numbers and attach a preferred length rubber hose and a universal oil breather filter on the end.

Nissan Part number 38323-C6010

Toyota 90404-51319: for 3/8” Barb
Toyota 90404-51026: for 1/4” hose
Nissan 38323-C6010: for 3/16” hose

or a standard 1/8" NPT to 1/4" hose barb fitting. as 4crawler mentioned it's not a perfect fit but his worked well.

Toyota part number for the OEM breather is 90930-03031

Originally Posted by Outsane

Rear seat belts will now bruise your shoulders along with you hips in the event of a sharp deceleration!


link to more info about these belts
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-belts-214268/

Originally Posted by wheatus

It seems that you can purchase lower door hinge replacements but not upper hinges. I modified my hinges to use replacable pins and bushings. To do this modification you will need: 12mm socket, ratchet, at least 3 inch extension, files or grinding tool, hammer, punch, vise, hacksaw, and a helper. (I will try and get the part numbers of the pins and bushings i used. I took my hinges to the parts store after i removed the old pins and bushings and found something close.)

1. Roll down the window, it makes the door easier to handle when removed.
2. If not equiped with power windows or locks skip to step 4.If equipped with power options you will need to remove the kickpanel and disconect the wiring.
3. Pull the wiring through the A pillar.
4. Using the ratchet, extension, and 12mm socket remove one bolt from each hinge.
5. Have your helper hold the door as you remove the last two bolts.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hinges to the door shell. There should be a total of 8 bolts.
7. Place the door shell in a place where it will not get damaged.
8. Take pictures or mark the hinges top and bottom to aid reassembly later. Work on one hinge at a time so you do not mix parts.
9. Secure the hinge in a vise.
10. Using a flat file or a grinding tool, a dremel or a die grinder work well, to grind the puddle weld holding the pin. Be careful not to grind too much off of the hinge.
11. Use the punch and hammer to knock the pin out of the hinge.
12. Remove the old bushings.




13. File, drill, or grind the hinges to fit the new pins and bushings. Notice that not all of the holes are the same size, check the fitting often.



14. Line up your marks or refer to your picture for reassembly.
15. Install new bushings.
16. Install new pin.
17. Reassemble the hinge.



18. Using the hacksaw you can cut off the excess pin. (optional)
19. Repeat steps 8-18 for the other hinge.




20. Reinstall the hinges to the door shell.
21. Have helper hold the door as you mount the hinges to the body.

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

swapped out the passenger door, my version of a quick release hinge was not a great success, so I decided to go with Stub's gravity version...much easier:

Originally Posted by 87hillbillyoter

- real easy to make quick release door hinges

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc2q_WiN9z0

Originally Posted by SC81YOTA

I am very interested in this. Ive always wanted to put intermediate wipers on my truck. I hate the only low and high option. I wonder if there is anything else than to just swap the controls.

Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r

Someone please sticky this.

NOTE: This ONLY goes for the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV etc series of carburetors not the 38.

This procedure assumes no modifications have been done internally to the carburetor. Including but not limited to primary and secondary main jets, air corrector jets.

It also assumes you have no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE including the popular two-piece adapter that typically comes with the kits. I HIGHLY suggest using the Transdapt 1 piece adapter. Others have had decent results with the LCE spiral adapter as well, even though that is also a two-piece unit. Easy way to test for vacuum leaks at the adapter is to spray carb cleaner in and around the entire base of the carburetor. If a change in idle (usually a stumble) is noticed then the adapter is leaking air into the engine and needs to be fixed before any accurate tune is achieved.

Other common areas for vacuum leaks are Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets.