farrier

I've got everything off the block trying to get timing cover off.
Can't brake loose crank bolt.
Put it in high gear, blocked wheels, and parking brake. Crank still moves.
Put bolts in pulley, then pry bar in bolts as a back up. Bent bolts.
I really thought I could put the socket and breaker bar on it, wedged in frame then hit starter. But no juice. Is there some kind of kill switch?
My little impact doesn't break it loose either.
FSM says remove crank bolt. ?????

farrier

Well I got it off.
Had to put a couple pry bars down on crank sprocket to jam it up, then brake bolt loose.
Sprocket had broken teeth anyway.
Hope this helps some other fool like me in the future.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Tire iron in the rear drive shaft could have worked too with high gear high range assuming your clutch isn't slipping just would want to make sure not to damage the U-joint. The bolt is pretty tight, how long was your breaker bar? 15in isn't bad but 20in+ makes it a ton easier (well 25% easier lol). Harbor freight has them pretty cheap yet good quality. My dad runs all snap-on and mac, but slowly is switching to Pittsburgh since it's dang close to the same quality but 1/10th the price. Screw drivers and cutting edges on pliers are not good, but sockets, and ratchets (and hopefully breaker bars) have been good.

farrier

ATC,
I had a 20'' 1/2'' drive breaker bar plus a 24'' cheater pipe with that. Still had to stain.
I was scared I was going to break it off or stripe it. I got lucky.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Crazy, must have been rust, or someone used an impact to put it on w\o torquing it right (not sure what the torque spec is off the top of my head).

farrier

I think it's 116 ft lbs.
Previous owner had timing chain done at some point, must have used a impact?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Possible, can't really guarantee it though lol. Biggest thing that counts is you got it off and it's not damaged etc.