Shaun Crystal Gomban

Just one of those irritating things about my truck that keep bothering me all day. I'm a bit obsessive.

I recently changed my clutch master and slave, aisin off Amazon. $50 free shipping for both

Anyways, that's all good. Bled system and no leaks, good pedal adjusted etc. I get 1/2 inch of clutch fork movement when pedal is depressed so I believe that's good. Fork not cracked.

Problem is apparent mostly during cold starts but can show it's face intermittently anytime. I push clutch pedal to floor but reverse Will grind. 1-4 won't even go in or grind. As soon as I move the stick in a gears direction I can feel the transmission. After trying the pedal a few times. ( not pumping it) I can go into second then no grind into reverse. From reverse I can go no grind into 1st. But, once I go neutral and release pedal, then press again I can't just go into gear again.

When in gear I get no slippage Or rpm change indicating slipping with pedal pressed. Shifting thru gears while moving is no problem, like butter.

I'm thinking that the clutch pads are constantly in some ever so slight contact with flywheel. Enough so that in neutral it spins the input shaft but when in gear the resistance is enough to keep it from spinning.

It gets much better once it's all warmed up and all. Any thoughts or similar experience? Throw Out bearing. Clutch grabs very good and smooth so I believe it still has life.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Do a couple of burnouts, should clean right up. Seems to be a lot of Chinese clutch disks out there that are a smidge too thick.

Shaun Crystal Gomban

Started up today and it was doing the same. Input shaft definitely spinning with clutch pedal pushed in. Reverse grind, forward gears wouldn't even go in but I could feel the truck respond when moving stick into a forward gears direction. Finally got it to go from second to reverse with a little grind. Went for a 5 mile drive. Once moving it's butter. Even went from reverse to 1st after exiting my driveway with the same pedal press. Got home and tried neutral to reverse and it went right in.

Since symptoms go away when clutch is warmed. Any idea what could be the culprit?

moroza

There are two adjustments to the clutch pedal (brake, too): a bolt with jamnut limiting its outward motion, and a threaded rod with a jamnut that can preload the master cylinder. Turn the latter out a few turns, to lengthen the rod and preload the cylinder slightly.

Team420

Have you checked the clutch pedal bracket under the dash? Mine started out the same way, then got progressively worse till i had to limp home in 3rd gear.

The bracket tends to develope a hair line fracture that causes the bracket itself to move just a smidge, rhus not allowing the clutch ro fully disengage.

Shaun Crystal Gomban

Yup. I adjusted both the mc rod and pedal stop nut so that the full range of mc piston is achieved. Also inspected and wiggled all angles on the bracket to see if it flexes and it's solid. No flexing at all. It only does it when clutch is cold and neutral to reverse or 1st. Once I get moving and clutch warms it goes away. I can go from neutral to reverse with a initial slight gear clack clack that immediately stops(input shaft stops spinning) and it slips right in.