22R Desmog Tutorial
#21
Heater hose routing and throttle set up
I've got two questions, With the LCE water Block off plates on the underside of the intake and the back of the timing cover, where do I route my heater hoses? One to the underside of the intake and the other??? Also, where did you get your throttle linkage and bell?
#22
The heater hose will run from the 90* barb fitting that comes with the intake manifold plate to the heater core inlet on the firewall and then from the heater core outlet on the firewall to the factory fitting that comes off of the hard coolant pipe (mounted to the motor mount) on the driverside towards the front of the motor.
The throttle linkage is factory. I just gave it a very extensive cleaning.
The throttle linkage is factory. I just gave it a very extensive cleaning.
#23
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Great Writeup! I wish something like this had been available when I started my project!
A few comments and thoughts:
No offense at all! The thread followed my initial process, which used that factory Aisin. It is still a decent approach for entry level budget builders. My truck has since been converted to a Weber, which I love as well. I wish that they made those vacuum caps out of the same quality material that they make vacuum hose out of, I had a few caps degrade within months.
This is true. The main differences are in the carb, and the location of the PAIR ports in the header. If you are using a Weber, the only difference will be which block-off plates you buy for the PAIR ports on the exhaust manifold (or you can use my technique of tapping the holes and using cap screws).
It is worth mentioning that emissions laws are in place in all 50 states, that is why you have an EGR on your vehicle to begin with. Some states do not enforce them, and some states do not require smog checks on transfer or sale of vehicles. These laws may change at any moment if the federal government decides to enforce 50 state compliance. De-smog at your own risk, even in friendly states.
They make CA and NY, etc. smog compliant Webers. There is very little difference in manufacture, but there is a badge that says it is compliant.
x2. I loved my Aisin carb, but when it eventually broke, I replaced it with a Weber. I should have done it sooner.
The questions will come in waves, they will show up again later. If you want to keep your thread clean, I would recommend locking it now, telling people to PM you with questions, and posting the question and answer in your thread if it is relevant. I should have done that in my thread, now it is too late. ![Wink](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Again, really great info, and well presented!
A few comments and thoughts:
![Wink](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Again, really great info, and well presented!
#24
Thanks Pumpkin! (I never get used to calling you that...) Like I said, two different styles and methods to desmog, but both effective. Thanks too for the extra information you added. In plan in leaving this thread open so that people can discuss, help each other and share ideas. My main concern was making sure that I got the tutorial completed on the first page without a bunch of post between so that people looking for information didn't have to read through a dozen pages to learn how to do this. Lucky for the readers out there, I took plenty of pictures during my rebuild. Sad part is that I have this beautiful engine sitting on a stand ready to drop in while the frame is in pieces in my garage! I'm trying to take my time with my build, but it's so tempting to rush through it.
#25
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Excellent write up, thanks!
Is the Weber 32/36 a better choice then the 38 and if so why? Could you do some pics of the choke cable routing/mounting in cab? More info/why needed on the fuel pressure regulator and how to adjust? Im a novice when it comes to carburetors thanks!
Is the Weber 32/36 a better choice then the 38 and if so why? Could you do some pics of the choke cable routing/mounting in cab? More info/why needed on the fuel pressure regulator and how to adjust? Im a novice when it comes to carburetors thanks!
#26
Basically the difference between the 32/36 and the 38 is that the 32/36 opens one barrel then the next to improve fuel economy and top end. The 38 opens both barrels together to improve low end torque and HP but loses fuel economy. For the average daily driver or milf wheeler, you might want to consider the 32/36. For more extreme wheeling where low end torque is needed then you might consider the 38.
I ran my choke cable along side of the throttle cable with zip ties. In the cab, I actually mounted the knob to one of the holes with a cover on it on the lower dash. I believe this was where the optional manual choke would have gone from the factory. Unfortunately, my cab body is at a friend's house while I work on my frame so you'll have to wait for some pictures.
You need the fuel pressure regulator to prevent the carb from flooding itself. The stock fuel pump puts out about 8-12 psi and the weber only needs about 3.5-4 psi.
I ran my choke cable along side of the throttle cable with zip ties. In the cab, I actually mounted the knob to one of the holes with a cover on it on the lower dash. I believe this was where the optional manual choke would have gone from the factory. Unfortunately, my cab body is at a friend's house while I work on my frame so you'll have to wait for some pictures.
You need the fuel pressure regulator to prevent the carb from flooding itself. The stock fuel pump puts out about 8-12 psi and the weber only needs about 3.5-4 psi.
#28
It's only one wire, but there is also a temperature sending unit that has to read the water temp to switch the choke solenoid off. Before I rebuilt my motor, I only needed to choke it for about 10 seconds and it would run on its own. With the electric choke, the choke would stay open for several minutes until the water temp came up.
#29
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It's only one wire, but there is also a temperature sending unit that has to read the water temp to switch the choke solenoid off. Before I rebuilt my motor, I only needed to choke it for about 10 seconds and it would run on its own. With the electric choke, the choke would stay open for several minutes until the water temp came up.
Most electric chokes work using a bimetal spring that slowly opens as it is heated by an electric current. The choke starts in the fully choked position, and opens as it slowly warms up. Here is an excellent explanation:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-...work-7696.html
Here is a link to weber's troubleshooting manual, specifying 12v ignition switched hot:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf
Your point about the length of time the choke is closed is very valid however. My 32/36 stays choked for about 1 minute if it is warm out, and about 3 if it is not. The nice thing about manual chokes is the manual control over your vehicle, which I am certainly a great fan of. The flip side is the thought free operation of the electric, coupled with the ease of installation. I opted for the electric choke in mine, but it took some serious consideration.
#30
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The vacuum switches and sensor plugs that come from the wiring harness on the passenger side fender wall can either be plugged or taped off with electrical tape OR if you're feeling froggy, you can track all of those wires back to the Emissions Control Computer located on the driver side kick panel and completely remove all of the emissions electronics. I plan on removing the wiring from my truck when I get to the body work on the cab so I'll do a write up on that as well later. Meanwhile, it does not hurt to just have the wires and vacuum ports plugged or taped. The emissions equipment only "communicates" to its self so if there is no emissions equipment then it's talking to nothing! If you used all the block off plates mentioned above and removed all the smog equipment attached to the engine and manifold then THERE SHOULD BE ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO CAP OFF.
FILL YOUR ENGINE WITH COOLANT BEFORE STARTING!!!
After you complete your desmogging you WILL need to time your engine and adjust your carb. IT WILL NOT RUN PROPERLY if you do not do this! The timing for a 22R should be 5*BTDC at 700-950 RPM WITHOUT the Vacuum advance.
Now your engine is officially desmogged!
FILL YOUR ENGINE WITH COOLANT BEFORE STARTING!!!
After you complete your desmogging you WILL need to time your engine and adjust your carb. IT WILL NOT RUN PROPERLY if you do not do this! The timing for a 22R should be 5*BTDC at 700-950 RPM WITHOUT the Vacuum advance.
Now your engine is officially desmogged!
For you Kawa, with all the work you are doing, I would HIGHLY recommend just rewiring from scratch using a painless wiring kit. I used the 18 circuit universal offroad waterproof kit, and it worked perfectly with only minor modifications. It took me about two days to do, but it was so worth it. EVERYTHING in my truck works better now. As I removed my old harness, I noticed that every old wire I cut into was very oxidized inside. These trucks are 30+ years old now, so that is not hugely surprising. What is surprising is how much resistance that oxidation adds to your wiring. My rig charges much better now, the headlights and marker lamps are dazzlingly bright, and there is no alternator noise in my stereo. Also, my motor seems to run stronger, I believe due to better voltage to the coil.
If you decide to go this route and need help, hit me up. I still have my notes, and can talk you through a lot of it. Also, maybe then you could do the rewire write up that I never got around to doing
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#31
We're on the same page on that electric choke, in that the coil that heats up is a type of temperature send unit. Nonetheless, it takes time and like you said, I like being in control
So you like that wiring harness?? I had noticed that you did that and I was planning on picking your brain when I got there. Electronics aren't my strong suit so I'll probably need some decent help on that. The wiring that I have cut or eliminated so far hasn't been oxidized too badly, but I plan on investigating that further when I get to it. I certainly appreciate the offer to help!
So you like that wiring harness?? I had noticed that you did that and I was planning on picking your brain when I got there. Electronics aren't my strong suit so I'll probably need some decent help on that. The wiring that I have cut or eliminated so far hasn't been oxidized too badly, but I plan on investigating that further when I get to it. I certainly appreciate the offer to help!
#33
The water temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold right below the thermostate housing. It's right between the fuel lines and the regulator gauge in the picture below:
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I just plugged the fitting that goes in the hold in the air filter. I need to think of something clever to do with that.
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I just plugged the fitting that goes in the hold in the air filter. I need to think of something clever to do with that.
#34
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Hello.......
Just kinda curious about your fuel regulator. I myself am running a 87 toyota 22R. I pretty much completely De-Smogged myself exept for a couple small things.
My main question is why are you running a fuel regulator. I'm currently running a Weber 32/36 and I have no regulator. I'm running the factory manual pump as well. I know the weber carb only calls for around 3-5 psi of fuel to run however the factory pump has a return line on it so whats the purpose of the fuel regulator. Is it just so you can view your pressure or does it serve a valuable purpose?
Just kinda curious about your fuel regulator. I myself am running a 87 toyota 22R. I pretty much completely De-Smogged myself exept for a couple small things.
My main question is why are you running a fuel regulator. I'm currently running a Weber 32/36 and I have no regulator. I'm running the factory manual pump as well. I know the weber carb only calls for around 3-5 psi of fuel to run however the factory pump has a return line on it so whats the purpose of the fuel regulator. Is it just so you can view your pressure or does it serve a valuable purpose?
#35
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I installed the pressure regulator on my 22R with the factory fuel pump, and even when I turn it to max it only goes a little over 4 PSI. I set the regulator to about 3 PSI but I can't tell that it makes any difference. My fuel pump is pretty new, a replacement from NAPA as the old one was leaking gas. I hate that.
#36
From what I understand, the factory machanical fuel pump puts out around 8 PSI. The webber typically likes 3-3.5 PSI (or even lower for wheeling applications). The point in the regulator is to ensure that the fuel bowl is properly filled to adequately and efficiently feed the barrels. At higher RPMs, the mechanical pump will overwhelm the needle valve if there is not a regulator. This can result in studdering, stalling and flooding. At higher pressures, you also run the risk of knocking the needle off it's seat. The return line does not regulate pressure, it simply "disposes" of extra fuel volumes. Besides, if Weber says that you need a regulator then I would get one. I know a fair amount about carbs, but I have a hunch that they know a lot more!
As far as your regulator not reading anything past 4PSI, If it is like mine, it only goes up to 4 PSI (I have Holley regulator). So perhaps your's is a 1-4PSI model too.
As far as your regulator not reading anything past 4PSI, If it is like mine, it only goes up to 4 PSI (I have Holley regulator). So perhaps your's is a 1-4PSI model too.
#37
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From what I understand, the factory machanical fuel pump puts out around 8 PSI. The webber typically likes 3-3.5 PSI (or even lower for wheeling applications). The point in the regulator is to ensure that the fuel bowl is properly filled to adequately and efficiently feed the barrels. At higher RPMs, the mechanical pump will overwhelm the needle valve if there is not a regulator. This can result in studdering, stalling and flooding. At higher pressures, you also run the risk of knocking the needle off it's seat. The return line does not regulate pressure, it simply "disposes" of extra fuel volumes. Besides, if Weber says that you need a regulator then I would get one. I know a fair amount about carbs, but I have a hunch that they know a lot more!
As far as your regulator not reading anything past 4PSI, If it is like mine, it only goes up to 4 PSI (I have Holley regulator). So perhaps your's is a 1-4PSI model too.
As far as your regulator not reading anything past 4PSI, If it is like mine, it only goes up to 4 PSI (I have Holley regulator). So perhaps your's is a 1-4PSI model too.
#38
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Ouch! I bought the same one you have, using the link in your post. Sorry about that, you're right. The guage reads higher, that doesn't mean the regulator will go higher.
#40
The EGR crossover plate is technically optional, but I'll explain what it does. Essentially, it returns excess smog gases back to the exhaust. It "crosses over" the coolant cavity on the rear of the head. If you ever take your headers off you will see two holes (about 1/2") in the head below the #2 and #3 exhaust ports that mate up to holes in the exhaust manifold. Those two holes (and the threaded hole for the middle exhaust stud) lead to the rear of the head where it mates to the crossover plate and then over to the EGR valve.
Now in desmogging, the EGR crossover block plate isn't a big factor. Since you'll be installing the EGR block off plate (it's a triangular plate, you'll see) you won't "need" the EGR crossover block plate. HOWEVER, since gases aren't being returned to the exhaust anymore, that means that gases are coming FROM the exhaust-not a big deal, but it may heat the engine up a little more. It's more or less a performance and cosmetic thing.
Now in desmogging, the EGR crossover block plate isn't a big factor. Since you'll be installing the EGR block off plate (it's a triangular plate, you'll see) you won't "need" the EGR crossover block plate. HOWEVER, since gases aren't being returned to the exhaust anymore, that means that gases are coming FROM the exhaust-not a big deal, but it may heat the engine up a little more. It's more or less a performance and cosmetic thing.