biglilyota

I've got two questions, With the LCE water Block off plates on the underside of the intake and the back of the timing cover, where do I route my heater hoses? One to the underside of the intake and the other??? Also, where did you get your throttle linkage and bell?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The heater hose will run from the 90* barb fitting that comes with the intake manifold plate to the heater core inlet on the firewall and then from the heater core outlet on the firewall to the factory fitting that comes off of the hard coolant pipe (mounted to the motor mount) on the driverside towards the front of the motor.

The throttle linkage is factory. I just gave it a very extensive cleaning.

Pumpkinyota

Great Writeup! I wish something like this had been available when I started my project!

A few comments and thoughts:

No offense at all! The thread followed my initial process, which used that factory Aisin. It is still a decent approach for entry level budget builders. My truck has since been converted to a Weber, which I love as well. I wish that they made those vacuum caps out of the same quality material that they make vacuum hose out of, I had a few caps degrade within months.

This is true. The main differences are in the carb, and the location of the PAIR ports in the header. If you are using a Weber, the only difference will be which block-off plates you buy for the PAIR ports on the exhaust manifold (or you can use my technique of tapping the holes and using cap screws).


It is worth mentioning that emissions laws are in place in all 50 states, that is why you have an EGR on your vehicle to begin with. Some states do not enforce them, and some states do not require smog checks on transfer or sale of vehicles. These laws may change at any moment if the federal government decides to enforce 50 state compliance. De-smog at your own risk, even in friendly states.

They make CA and NY, etc. smog compliant Webers. There is very little difference in manufacture, but there is a badge that says it is compliant.

x2. I loved my Aisin carb, but when it eventually broke, I replaced it with a Weber. I should have done it sooner.

The questions will come in waves, they will show up again later. If you want to keep your thread clean, I would recommend locking it now, telling people to PM you with questions, and posting the question and answer in your thread if it is relevant. I should have done that in my thread, now it is too late.


Again, really great info, and well presented!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Pumpkin! (I never get used to calling you that...) Like I said, two different styles and methods to desmog, but both effective. Thanks too for the extra information you added. In plan in leaving this thread open so that people can discuss, help each other and share ideas. My main concern was making sure that I got the tutorial completed on the first page without a bunch of post between so that people looking for information didn't have to read through a dozen pages to learn how to do this. Lucky for the readers out there, I took plenty of pictures during my rebuild. Sad part is that I have this beautiful engine sitting on a stand ready to drop in while the frame is in pieces in my garage! I'm trying to take my time with my build, but it's so tempting to rush through it.

FIRTH4X4

Excellent write up, thanks!

Is the Weber 32/36 a better choice then the 38 and if so why? Could you do some pics of the choke cable routing/mounting in cab? More info/why needed on the fuel pressure regulator and how to adjust? Im a novice when it comes to carburetors thanks!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Basically the difference between the 32/36 and the 38 is that the 32/36 opens one barrel then the next to improve fuel economy and top end. The 38 opens both barrels together to improve low end torque and HP but loses fuel economy. For the average daily driver or milf wheeler, you might want to consider the 32/36. For more extreme wheeling where low end torque is needed then you might consider the 38.

I ran my choke cable along side of the throttle cable with zip ties. In the cab, I actually mounted the knob to one of the holes with a cover on it on the lower dash. I believe this was where the optional manual choke would have gone from the factory. Unfortunately, my cab body is at a friend's house while I work on my frame so you'll have to wait for some pictures.

You need the fuel pressure regulator to prevent the carb from flooding itself. The stock fuel pump puts out about 8-12 psi and the weber only needs about 3.5-4 psi.

FIRTH4X4

Thanks for that info. One more question, what is it about the electric choke carbs you dont like? Only one wire isnt it?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

It's only one wire, but there is also a temperature sending unit that has to read the water temp to switch the choke solenoid off. Before I rebuilt my motor, I only needed to choke it for about 10 seconds and it would run on its own. With the electric choke, the choke would stay open for several minutes until the water temp came up.

Pumpkinyota

Hmmm, I don't think this is quite right my friend...

Most electric chokes work using a bimetal spring that slowly opens as it is heated by an electric current. The choke starts in the fully choked position, and opens as it slowly warms up. Here is an excellent explanation:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-...work-7696.html

Here is a link to weber's troubleshooting manual, specifying 12v ignition switched hot:

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf

Your point about the length of time the choke is closed is very valid however. My 32/36 stays choked for about 1 minute if it is warm out, and about 3 if it is not. The nice thing about manual chokes is the manual control over your vehicle, which I am certainly a great fan of. The flip side is the thought free operation of the electric, coupled with the ease of installation. I opted for the electric choke in mine, but it took some serious consideration.

Pumpkinyota

By the way, I forgot to mention this earlier, but if you are sticking with stock wiring, you can just unplug and remove the ECC, it is no longer functional.

For you Kawa, with all the work you are doing, I would HIGHLY recommend just rewiring from scratch using a painless wiring kit. I used the 18 circuit universal offroad waterproof kit, and it worked perfectly with only minor modifications. It took me about two days to do, but it was so worth it. EVERYTHING in my truck works better now. As I removed my old harness, I noticed that every old wire I cut into was very oxidized inside. These trucks are 30+ years old now, so that is not hugely surprising. What is surprising is how much resistance that oxidation adds to your wiring. My rig charges much better now, the headlights and marker lamps are dazzlingly bright, and there is no alternator noise in my stereo. Also, my motor seems to run stronger, I believe due to better voltage to the coil.

If you decide to go this route and need help, hit me up. I still have my notes, and can talk you through a lot of it. Also, maybe then you could do the rewire write up that I never got around to doing

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

We're on the same page on that electric choke, in that the coil that heats up is a type of temperature send unit. Nonetheless, it takes time and like you said, I like being in control

So you like that wiring harness?? I had noticed that you did that and I was planning on picking your brain when I got there. Electronics aren't my strong suit so I'll probably need some decent help on that. The wiring that I have cut or eliminated so far hasn't been oxidized too badly, but I plan on investigating that further when I get to it. I certainly appreciate the offer to help!

timinator

How did you block off the hole in the air filter, and where is the water temp gauge sensor?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The water temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold right below the thermostate housing. It's right between the fuel lines and the regulator gauge in the picture below:




I just plugged the fitting that goes in the hold in the air filter. I need to think of something clever to do with that.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

Hello.......

Just kinda curious about your fuel regulator. I myself am running a 87 toyota 22R. I pretty much completely De-Smogged myself exept for a couple small things.

My main question is why are you running a fuel regulator. I'm currently running a Weber 32/36 and I have no regulator. I'm running the factory manual pump as well. I know the weber carb only calls for around 3-5 psi of fuel to run however the factory pump has a return line on it so whats the purpose of the fuel regulator. Is it just so you can view your pressure or does it serve a valuable purpose?

enigmaT120

I installed the pressure regulator on my 22R with the factory fuel pump, and even when I turn it to max it only goes a little over 4 PSI. I set the regulator to about 3 PSI but I can't tell that it makes any difference. My fuel pump is pretty new, a replacement from NAPA as the old one was leaking gas. I hate that.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

From what I understand, the factory machanical fuel pump puts out around 8 PSI. The webber typically likes 3-3.5 PSI (or even lower for wheeling applications). The point in the regulator is to ensure that the fuel bowl is properly filled to adequately and efficiently feed the barrels. At higher RPMs, the mechanical pump will overwhelm the needle valve if there is not a regulator. This can result in studdering, stalling and flooding. At higher pressures, you also run the risk of knocking the needle off it's seat. The return line does not regulate pressure, it simply "disposes" of extra fuel volumes. Besides, if Weber says that you need a regulator then I would get one. I know a fair amount about carbs, but I have a hunch that they know a lot more!

As far as your regulator not reading anything past 4PSI, If it is like mine, it only goes up to 4 PSI (I have Holley regulator). So perhaps your's is a 1-4PSI model too.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

That's the kinda answer I was looking for..... My weber came with good instructions but said nothing about a regulator. I guess this could explain the smoking tailpipe and accasional flooding.

enigmaT120

Ouch! I bought the same one you have, using the link in your post. Sorry about that, you're right. The guage reads higher, that doesn't mean the regulator will go higher.

redhorsejack

My only question was the EGR crossover plate on the back of the head, is it necessary? I have ordered all the other necessary components from LC.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The EGR crossover plate is technically optional, but I'll explain what it does. Essentially, it returns excess smog gases back to the exhaust. It "crosses over" the coolant cavity on the rear of the head. If you ever take your headers off you will see two holes (about 1/2") in the head below the #2 and #3 exhaust ports that mate up to holes in the exhaust manifold. Those two holes (and the threaded hole for the middle exhaust stud) lead to the rear of the head where it mates to the crossover plate and then over to the EGR valve.

Now in desmogging, the EGR crossover block plate isn't a big factor. Since you'll be installing the EGR block off plate (it's a triangular plate, you'll see) you won't "need" the EGR crossover block plate. HOWEVER, since gases aren't being returned to the exhaust anymore, that means that gases are coming FROM the exhaust-not a big deal, but it may heat the engine up a little more. It's more or less a performance and cosmetic thing.