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You dont need a foot long bit like mine, lol. Turn bit slowly, plastic should just peel out. Remove mounting braket from cable, just use locking washers and nut.
Just an FYI. Those BSTP fittings can be found at industrial hydraulic/pneumatic hose places. I got mine from the Aeroquip dealer and I believe Parker has them too. BSTP threads are identical to the JIS threads Toyota uses.
Here is a Desmogging video straight from the source - LCE Performance. They show it exactly like I have except I decided to retain the PCV and routed it to the manifold via the EGR plate provided with the Weber (They eliminate the PCV and replace it with a breather). The reason why I retained a PCV hose is so that if for some reason it ever decided to spew oil everywhere, it would not go all over my engine compartment. Either way is adequate. ENJOY!
Dave, first of all, thanks for putting so much time and effort into this write up, it has so much great information and I keep coming back to it over and over.
I see that you have run your heater core hoses on the bung under your intake manifold to the top bung on the heater control valve. I am planning on doing the same thing, but realized that the 79-83 heater control valve top bung points toward the intake side, but 84-on (as in my case) it points toward the brake booster. Any chance you might know if I can reverse the heater core hose routing? Specifically, can I run the "yellow" hose to the bottom of the intake manifold water plate bung and run the "blue" hose to the steel pipe that the "yellow" one is currently hooked up to? I've read conflicting arguments that it doesn't matter which is inlet/outlet. If I can reverse the hose orientation, it would really simplify the plumbing and prevent me from having to use a 90* bend fitting and look super cluttered.
I don't really see anything wrong with the way you have it now, but You could do that with no real problems. The only adverse effects that you would have is that since the valve would technically be controlling the flow after the heater core then you'd have a little bit of radiant heat coming off of the heater core from the warm coolant just sitting there. You'd still get the same heat that your had before when the valve is open and the coolant is circulating. You could help prevent that radiant heat by installing a ball valve in the yellow hose coming from the intake manifold to the heater core so that you can shut off the flow completely during the warmer months.
Ok cool. I think I'll try to plumb it "opposite" so the yellow line will run to the bottom of the intake and the blue will run to the steel pipe on the driver's side. That's a good idea about the ball valve to isolate it completely when it's not needed, that should be easy to do as well.
You're right though, the picture is a little misleading, it shows the way Toyota runs them, if I were to keep it like that, I would have a to run a 90* bend from the top of the blue line and run it back across the valve cover and under the intake manifold... it would work, but would look cluttered and messy.
Awesome thread! Thanks for taking the time, so much great info. As to the hot air injection- can you simply "cap off" the air pump and the hose that formerly ran from the air cleaner? Marked em in red. I live in the city with very little room to work and I reeeeallly dont feel like getting under there and pulling the ASV and air pump- much rather cap it off if that isn't going to blow anything up.
For one, you need to be carefully when using caps to cap anything drawing vacuum; particularly rubber caps. Rubber caps deteriorate and crack rather quickly thus causing vacuum leaks. If you do end up using caps for anything spend the extra money and get silicone caps.
Two, the air pump can't simply be capped off. Removing the air pump is rather simpe, but at the very least you'll want to remove the belt that drives the air pump pulley. If just cap it and don't remove the belt then you'll just blow off the caps.
The ASV can be capped, but again, removing it really isn't that difficult.
You would do anything catastrophic to the engine if you forget something or do something wrong. It just simply won't run - primarily due to a vacuum leak. Honestly, it don't take long and it isn't difficult to remove everything and do the job properly.
Thanks for the reply. I'll look at blocking it of next week, but right now the wife *needs* some furniture moved into storage and the words 'I'm installing a Weber' means nothing to her lol. Good to know it can be capped off momentarily.
Please post your questions regarding Desmogging in this thread. I have received numerous PM's asking the same questions over and over. I don't mind helping out, but if you post your questions here then we can answer them as a community and avoid repetition in my inbox. Thanks guys!
I recently wrote a thread regarding the rebuild on my 22R for my 1983 Toyota Pickup (My 22R Rebuild - KawaZX636). In rebuilding my engine, I completely eliminated any and all factory smog equipment. Since I created that thread, I have been approached by several YotaTech members with questions regarding the desmogging of a 22R. I don't mind helping, but it has become rather time consuming answering all of the questions I have received thus far so I decided to create a thread on desmogging a 22R. There are other threads out there that discuss the desmogging process, mainly Pumkinyota's De-Smogging an early 22R thread. Pumkinyota's thread is highly informative, but it has become inundated with questions and uses a slightly different approach to desmogging a 22R which involves capping vacuum hoses and utilizing the factory carb (no offense intended to you Pumkinyota).
In this thread, I will go over all the smog equipment, vacuum hoses and vacuum switches that need to be removed as well as which LCE block off plates to purchase and install in order to completely and effectively desmog a 22R engine. This desmogging guide will also utilize a Weber 32/36 carb with a manual choke. This guide will be based on my most recent 22R rebuild with the engine removed from the truck; however, all step shown below can be completed with the engine in the vehicle. I BELIEVE that desmogged the 20R is very similar to the 22R, but there may be slight variations.
Keep in mind that smog regulations vary from State to State so check your local laws prior to yanking your smog equipment. Eventually, I would like to develop a list of States with and without smog regulations with the help of YotaTech members.
In order for this thread to remain clutter free, I ask that you put off asking questions until I have completed the tutorial. So sit back and relax, the posts will be coming shortly.
If i deleted and plugged of the smog items with the factory aisin carb, do you know if it would run ok then?
First off, THANKS for the fantastic write-up (and that of Punkinyota, whose 20R project thread has also helped me a ton)! I'm replacing the stock carb (water choke) with a Weber 32/36 electric choke on a 1976 Toyota Corona wagon. At this time, I don't want to pull the intake manifold, fyi. So everything I'm doing is with the engine in the car, and the car in the parking lot at work. I've run into a couple problems peculiar to my old 20R, and have searched for many hours on the web for answers. Here's the stuff I'm still kinda stuck on, I was able to solve the majority with googling and with these threads:
1) Crankcase plumbing: my Weber includes an adapter plate to run the PCV into the intake manifold, and the crankcase vent to run into the bottom of the air cleaner. The intake on my 1976 20R doesn't have a place for the PCV adapter. It just ain't there. There's a vacuum widget sticking out, but it's threaded direct and there are no holes for the adapter and hose barb to bolt down. Believe that vacuum widget on the intake is Japanese threads, so I'm hesitant to unscrew it-- it's tighter than the Grinch on Christmas-- and then stand around scratching my head for a BPST threaded hose barb to feed the PCV into. I went ahead and ordered an EGR blockoff plate from LCE to delete the EGR entirely-- the thing that came with the kit doesn't fit on my model-- so that bit of plumbing is taken care of .
Could I run the PCV into the Weber airbox? Or will it spew crap into the carb and gunk it up?
Unless I'm missing something dire, I'm planning to put a breather on the front hole in the valve cover, fyi. If the PCV should absolutely not go into the airbox, then I reckon I'll plumb the breather into the airbox like the Weber conversion instructions instruct.
2) Vacuum: like Punkinyota, my old 20R distributor advance only has one line. I had some new 7/32" line which fits great on the distributor side, but the vacuum port on the Weber is WAY bigger. Looks like the capped vacuum line on the Weber (just behind the "main" vacuum port, and oddly labeled "EGR" in some 32/36 DGEV schematics) is smaller-- can I unscrew that and run my vacuum there? I kinda hate to, since it means I'll need to cap the main/front vacuum port. Sigh. I hate caps. Maybe there's an adapter pipe to move from 7/32" to 5/16" (didn't have tools to measure, but the main vacuum port on the Weber is a LOT larger diameter!) available? Still, I hate splicing stuff in. Would the vacuum advance draw okay if I fed it off the intake? There's a whole bird's nest of fittings to choose from on the intake! Still would leave me plugging the port on the Weber...hmmm...
3) For those that's done it on an ancient 20R, what's a good place to tie in my ignition-on electric choke wire?
4) One last redneck question and I'm done: back in the day, we used to plug up extra vacuum lines with Permatex and golf tees, rather than fancy rubber plugs. Anything wrong with this approach? Many Solex VW carbs on de-smogged, air-cooled VWs had a bloom of golf tees protruding in all directions...
Thanks to any and all ideas/ advice. And FYI, if it sounds like I'm kinda half-assing this thing right now, it's because I am. Long story why it's stuck in the parking lot at work. Let's just say a "professional" mechanic gave up and asked me to come get it from his shop. I want to get it running well enough that I can drive it home and put it in my garage, where I'll tidy it all up at my leisure. And without the boss yelling at me about that POS abandoned out front where customers and bigwigs can see it...
Awesome write up! With this post and a few parts from LCE I desmogged my 79 with ease!!! My only problem now is I dont have much for heat. I have back washed heater core and get a decent flow so im not sure whats wrong and when your from central Illinois you gotta have heat in the winter
Awesome write up! With this post and a few parts from LCE I desmogged my 79 with ease!!! My only problem now is I dont have much for heat. I have back washed heater core and get a decent flow so im not sure whats wrong and when your from central Illinois you gotta have heat in the winter
did you use the water block off plates? If so then you no longer have a heat source to your heater core. Thats why i didn't use them, their completely unnecessary to desmog. Im not sure why people use them really? Other than to clean the look up a bit. You just need the EGR and exhaust gas recirculation plates to desmog. I think there is way to maintain the H2o plates and have a heater but I dont know exactly how? As i said never did this so dont know for sure.
my top hose runs to this brass fitting under the intake seen in this pic when I did replaced the head gasket. Should I plug this and run the hose from the connection below where the mechanical fuel pump would normally be?
Got it running without any issues; thanks for the help dudes! Noticed that fuel pressure was at 2.5ish lbs and tried adjusting, doesn't seem to go anywhere so I just spun it back lol. Runs so much better, I was barely able to accelerate before let alone get above 40 mph.
Did you tap out the hole on the rear of your intake manifold for your distributor vac line or were you able to find a fitting that matched it? I've been looking for that fitting to reroute my vac line there, but I'm not removing my manifold any time soon either.
Who has desmogged their 22r and used the stock Aisin carb? I'm just finishing an engine rebuild and swapping in a new W56 transmission into my 86 4x4 pickup and am doing away with all smog equipment but I'm keeping the Aisin carb. Any particular vacuum lines that you chose to keep aside from the brake booster and vacuum advance to distributor?
03-25-2016, 08:56 AM
