1983 Toyota Sunrader jolt while accelerati
#1
1983 Toyota Sunrader jolt while accelerati
Hi guys, I am having an issue with my 1983 Toyota Sunrader 22-R motor carbeurated 2RWD. maybe y'all can help me out I'm at a loss.
when I'm pushing on the throttle in higher rpms (no matter what gear) I will occasionally get a buck or jolt. It happens most offen when motor is cold.
my instinct just wants to push the throttle harder as it feels like something's clogged ( this is just how it feels
I am not saying anything is clogged I don't know)
it it happens as I am building up speed and gears are pushing.
what I have done to remedy
Spark plugs
wires
cap
rotor
ignitoion coil
Voltage regulator
Fuel filter
seafoam in fuel
seafoam in carb
air filter
new belts
i tested my egr valve and vacuum module and they are good
fuel pump is only a few months old
im at a loss. Here is a twist. When I did anything in the ignition path... plugs, wires cap rotor coil.. it seemed to be fixed for a few days then slowly problem crept back..
when the problem started I was coming down from high altitude. Just thought I'd mention it. Not sure if that's a thing.
one other thing. When I clod start the truck after a few minutes I hear a click then motor dies down for a second and comes back up. Not sure if it's a related issue or not.
Really look forward to hearing I'm quite stuck and would love your input.
when I'm pushing on the throttle in higher rpms (no matter what gear) I will occasionally get a buck or jolt. It happens most offen when motor is cold.
my instinct just wants to push the throttle harder as it feels like something's clogged ( this is just how it feels
I am not saying anything is clogged I don't know)
it it happens as I am building up speed and gears are pushing.
what I have done to remedy
Spark plugs
wires
cap
rotor
ignitoion coil
Voltage regulator
Fuel filter
seafoam in fuel
seafoam in carb
air filter
new belts
i tested my egr valve and vacuum module and they are good
fuel pump is only a few months old
im at a loss. Here is a twist. When I did anything in the ignition path... plugs, wires cap rotor coil.. it seemed to be fixed for a few days then slowly problem crept back..
when the problem started I was coming down from high altitude. Just thought I'd mention it. Not sure if that's a thing.
one other thing. When I clod start the truck after a few minutes I hear a click then motor dies down for a second and comes back up. Not sure if it's a related issue or not.
Really look forward to hearing I'm quite stuck and would love your input.
#2
Registered User
I wish I could help but I think we need a photo of your sunrader
I would check to make sure the carb is properly tuned and working right; no leak at the acceleration pump, no clogs, and tuned properly. No vacuum leaks. Good grounds on the engine. No clogs in the exhaust. Never a bad idea to check the timing, adjust the valves. Click is probably the carb choke. Even though the idle comes back up, so long as it does drop down eventually once the truck is warm, it's probably more or less nothing. Never hurts to really clean the carb, though. If it's original...probably time to replace. Unless you have serious rebuild skills, a Weber 32/36 is the way to go. I put one on my 78 Chinook and it was great.
I would check to make sure the carb is properly tuned and working right; no leak at the acceleration pump, no clogs, and tuned properly. No vacuum leaks. Good grounds on the engine. No clogs in the exhaust. Never a bad idea to check the timing, adjust the valves. Click is probably the carb choke. Even though the idle comes back up, so long as it does drop down eventually once the truck is warm, it's probably more or less nothing. Never hurts to really clean the carb, though. If it's original...probably time to replace. Unless you have serious rebuild skills, a Weber 32/36 is the way to go. I put one on my 78 Chinook and it was great.
#3
Registered User
My 78 longbed does that too. But since I've replaced everything mentioned above, I'm thinking clutch and/or throwout bearing. I know mine is going bad. If I rev above 1500 & ride the clutch pedal out slow in 1st, I hear a whining, & get some shuddering too.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Now in your case I expect when you do get into the clutch it's going to actually be broken not just worn.
#5
Registered User
If it is, it's not that broken yet. I can still drive it normally without hearing the whining sound. Far from working smooth as silk, but it's ok for now. Next project on the list to get done tho.