1979 Truck that has been sitting 20 years!
#41
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gov't mule,
I think my biggest challenge now is to get up the money to afford the Weber. Me and some of my friends that own toyota's were talking about it last nite, and they are all pro and con about the Weber. I think with that style of mod to the Weber, I think it will run a lot better. Thanks for posting the link to it.
I think my biggest challenge now is to get up the money to afford the Weber. Me and some of my friends that own toyota's were talking about it last nite, and they are all pro and con about the Weber. I think with that style of mod to the Weber, I think it will run a lot better. Thanks for posting the link to it.
#42
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No problem man! And good luck with the truck...that's a GOOD looking '79! These first gen Yotas are the BEST! And like has already been mentioned, there is a wealth of information and experience in this forum...use it to your advantage!
#43
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Webers are great for 4x4. If this is the only reason you're not using one on your 4x4, then there is an easy and cheap fix:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0
I wouldn't run anything but a Weber on my rig. And that whole pressure regulator/electric fuel pump requirement is BS too. I've been running the 32/36 off the stock mechanical pump with no regulator on 2 different trucks for years now with NO issues.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0
I wouldn't run anything but a Weber on my rig. And that whole pressure regulator/electric fuel pump requirement is BS too. I've been running the 32/36 off the stock mechanical pump with no regulator on 2 different trucks for years now with NO issues.
Also, thanks for that vacuum diagram, sure it might come in handy some day.
#44
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I have the original service manual for the 20r and the chassis and body repair manual for the 1979, so if anyone needs a particular portion copied off to see a schematic, I will gladly do it.
#45
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Nope, I haven't but I haven't had my truck standing on it's bumper yet either.
#46
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After going back and forth with the carb issue I decided to stick with the original carb for a while to see what it can do. Besides I am working on putting a hydrogen assist system in it for better mileage and if something goes wrong which I don't anticipate anything, then I will only have to rebuild the stock carb and not the Weber.
#47
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Beautiful truck! And you're quite lucky your grandfather kept a canopy on it if it was stored outside, otherwise that bed would probably be toast. Haha good luck on the restore man!
#48
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i want round headlights now hahaha! just kidding love me some sq ones, wish i could score something that clean, mine sat in the atlantic ocean for 20 years.....
#49
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Dusty, if/when you put in a hydrogen assist system in please post a thread in it. Been thinking about it myself and would like to see what the results are on one of our first gens.
Also, ran the hell outa a 32/36 for years and loved it. Never had a problem on hill climb or off camber and saw a gain in hp and mpg. Just my experience.
Also, ran the hell outa a 32/36 for years and loved it. Never had a problem on hill climb or off camber and saw a gain in hp and mpg. Just my experience.
#50
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Nice find and it's great that your GF took good care of it. Most problems that people have with the stock carb is that it's dirty and needs to be cleaned. If you have the carb clean and the intake ported and polished (which is easier than you might think) you will get great response, the best possible gas mileage, and save $$$. Rebuild kits aren't expensive, but Weber's are.
You can also use electrolysis to remove rust (battery charger, sacrificial anode (all thread), and some washing soda and your set. I don't like WD-40 for anything but cleaning dirty parts. Marvel is better, SeaFoam 'Deep Creep' is better still. I sprayed my door handles with the 'Deep' and they were free and smooth in seconds-fixed the driver's side locking mech as well.
I would be interested in the hydrogen assist as well, seems like it is at least sound in theory.
You can also use electrolysis to remove rust (battery charger, sacrificial anode (all thread), and some washing soda and your set. I don't like WD-40 for anything but cleaning dirty parts. Marvel is better, SeaFoam 'Deep Creep' is better still. I sprayed my door handles with the 'Deep' and they were free and smooth in seconds-fixed the driver's side locking mech as well.
I would be interested in the hydrogen assist as well, seems like it is at least sound in theory.
#51
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In response to the question with the Hydrogen fuel assist on these older Toyota's, I think it will work wonder's! There are a few guys that I know that are running these garage built systems on thier rigs that I have been able to witness. One is an older Samurai, and the other is a four hundred plus horse older Buick that was in pretty bad motor shape. The Buick was getting about eight miles to the gallon on a good day. Now the Buick is pulling over sixteen under full load climbing some of the steep hills around our area. On the freeway he says he is getting about twenty-five. This is a drast improvement on an already problematic motor. He was also getting a lot of problems with fouling the plugs before putting the Hydrogen boost system to work. He pulled the plugs for me yesterday after running the Hydro fuel cell for six months now. They were astoundingly clean, almost looked new. I have have been tinkering in the garage with several different designs to work with the older Toyota's and am getting close to a final model. Just make sure if you try this that you always use a bubbler in line before jetting the Hydrogen gas down the carb. The bubbler prevents a back fire from entering the main fuel cell and causing some real bad problems. Would be similar to you throwing a match down the gas tank! I will post more on this the farther I get along on it!
#52
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Well after a short delay on restoring my 1979 Toyota, mainly because of money issues, I have began working on it again! I originally thought I would get away with using a engine rebuild kit on the old 20R, come to find out after a little closer inspection, there was a baseball sized hole in the block. So I have removed the engine, and now am in search of a 22R motor to throw my 20R head on. As I hear that is a good combination from what I read. I will soon update my thread with new pictures of the build soon!
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Webers are great for 4x4. If this is the only reason you're not using one on your 4x4, then there is an easy and cheap fix:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0
I wouldn't run anything but a Weber on my rig. And that whole pressure regulator/electric fuel pump requirement is BS too. I've been running the 32/36 off the stock mechanical pump with no regulator on 2 different trucks for years now with NO issues.
#59
bringing up a old thread(serching for 79 FSM) but going through this with 2 toys right now .my 79 sat for 5 years and my 91 4runner i donated to my work (long story) sat for many years .all i can say is replace anything that can dryrot belts hoses vac lines and all fluids and then start finding the real leaks. drive them and it will take at least 5 tanks of gas before it starts running better ,all the time my 79 fixs itself -turn signals started working the other day for my wife .ive been a mech. for 30 years and the worst thing you can do is let a vehical sit .i would rather have a toy with 300,000 that was a daily driver than a toy w/ 20,000 that sat in a garage its whole life. YMMV
#60
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buy some brake fluid, crack each bleeder and flush them until they run clean. brake fluid attracts moisture, and the lines can rust from the inside. sucks to blow one.
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