FS[PacNorWest]: For Sale: 1988 4runner $2500 needs work - Seattle WA
11-07-2016, 11:55 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
For Sale: 1988 4runner $2500 needs work - Seattle WA
V6, SR-5, 5 speed manual. 350,000+ miles on it. Needs some work, but honestly nearly everything that's going to break has been replaced. Get it running and it will make a great daily driver or trail rig.
THE GOOD:
Engine/Drivetrain:
- Remanufactured v6 long block, has ~50,000 miles. New clutch installed with rebuild, 6 years on it. Aftermarket pressure plate so you can actually drive this in traffic without gnawing your own leg off.
- 31" Toyo MTs w/ 60% tread or so on cheap 16" steel rims. Full sized matching spare.
- ASIN Manual locking hubs. Rebuilt five-ish years ago.
- 4.88 gear replacement front and rear. On the the 31s this gets you a little under stock gearing. Speedo runs about 109% of actual.
- Detroit Locker in front, rear is stock/open. Don't ask me why it's like this, it just worked out that way. Both diffs recently serviced.
- New magnaflow muffler + all new cat back piping
Suspension:
- 2" suspension lift. Old Man Emu Dakar rear leafs, Aluminum ball joint spacers in front.
- OME nitro-charger shocks all around + steering stabilizer.
- OME greaseable rear shackles (stock length)
- Recent upper ball joint replacement.
Electrical:
- 160 amp alternator (w/ big 3 wire upgrade) so there is power for all the stereo, lights, and then some.
- Wicked sound system. 2x 600w 6x9s on 400w stereo amp. 12" sub on 800w mono amp. Replaced factory dash speakers and installed additional dome tweeters. Pioneer head unit w/ bluetooth audio and all that.
- Hella 500 driving lights on front bumper, all properly wired and integrated into standard hi/lo beam switch. Street-legal 55w bulbs.
- Back up cam wired to rear-view monitor, automatically tied to reverse. I parallel park this in Seattle easily.
- All major exterior bulbs replaced with LED lights, never change a taillight again.
- All dash lights replaced with red LED lights. Easier on your eyes for night driving.
- Keyless entry w/ additional fob buttons to roll rear tailgate window up and down.
Brakes: braking is "firm and reliable". Most trucks this old are more like "terrifying". You will still want to stop early.
- All new rear drums a while back (aka they are not rusted on)
- Complete master-cylinder replacement a couple years ago.
- Stainless brake hose upgrades, front and back.
Misc:
- Aftermarket 2" tow hitch, 6 wire connector w/ brake controller. (Class II tow rating = 3500 lbs / 350 tongue weight)
- Custom plate steel rear bumper, integrated with tow hitch to frame.
- Clean title.
- The body is actually pretty straight
- "Never wheeled hard". I swear.
- AC works!
- Custom overhead cargo rack. Still clears under 7'
- Have all receipts and service records. Recently spent over $4k on differential and drivetrain work. Right before the headgasket went. Seriously.
THE BAD:
- V6 motor has a blown headgasket, and there's no coolant, so it can't be started or driven. Typical heat issues with #6 cylinder on the 3VZE.
- Battery is shot, won't hold charge.
- Passenger seat slide cable is broken so getting in the back seat is hard
- Some driveline vibration at highway speeds.
- Passenger window won't roll down (motor tests fine, probably bad wire or switch)
- Have OME torsion bars to install, but the adjusters are rusted solid. Will need brute force to remove.
THE UGLY:
- The interior is...musty. Not rotten, but def. needs a deep cleaning.
- Paint sucks, some minor surface rust but no major body cancer or frame rust.
- The rear window is a little funky and sometimes needs a little push to get un-stuck
- Sunroof will leak a bit in a monsoon.
- The roof rack basket is cheap, so it has some rust streak
THE GOOD:
Engine/Drivetrain:
- Remanufactured v6 long block, has ~50,000 miles. New clutch installed with rebuild, 6 years on it. Aftermarket pressure plate so you can actually drive this in traffic without gnawing your own leg off.
- 31" Toyo MTs w/ 60% tread or so on cheap 16" steel rims. Full sized matching spare.
- ASIN Manual locking hubs. Rebuilt five-ish years ago.
- 4.88 gear replacement front and rear. On the the 31s this gets you a little under stock gearing. Speedo runs about 109% of actual.
- Detroit Locker in front, rear is stock/open. Don't ask me why it's like this, it just worked out that way. Both diffs recently serviced.
- New magnaflow muffler + all new cat back piping
Suspension:
- 2" suspension lift. Old Man Emu Dakar rear leafs, Aluminum ball joint spacers in front.
- OME nitro-charger shocks all around + steering stabilizer.
- OME greaseable rear shackles (stock length)
- Recent upper ball joint replacement.
Electrical:
- 160 amp alternator (w/ big 3 wire upgrade) so there is power for all the stereo, lights, and then some.
- Wicked sound system. 2x 600w 6x9s on 400w stereo amp. 12" sub on 800w mono amp. Replaced factory dash speakers and installed additional dome tweeters. Pioneer head unit w/ bluetooth audio and all that.
- Hella 500 driving lights on front bumper, all properly wired and integrated into standard hi/lo beam switch. Street-legal 55w bulbs.
- Back up cam wired to rear-view monitor, automatically tied to reverse. I parallel park this in Seattle easily.
- All major exterior bulbs replaced with LED lights, never change a taillight again.
- All dash lights replaced with red LED lights. Easier on your eyes for night driving.
- Keyless entry w/ additional fob buttons to roll rear tailgate window up and down.
Brakes: braking is "firm and reliable". Most trucks this old are more like "terrifying". You will still want to stop early.
- All new rear drums a while back (aka they are not rusted on)
- Complete master-cylinder replacement a couple years ago.
- Stainless brake hose upgrades, front and back.
Misc:
- Aftermarket 2" tow hitch, 6 wire connector w/ brake controller. (Class II tow rating = 3500 lbs / 350 tongue weight)
- Custom plate steel rear bumper, integrated with tow hitch to frame.
- Clean title.
- The body is actually pretty straight
- "Never wheeled hard". I swear.
- AC works!
- Custom overhead cargo rack. Still clears under 7'
- Have all receipts and service records. Recently spent over $4k on differential and drivetrain work. Right before the headgasket went. Seriously.
THE BAD:
- V6 motor has a blown headgasket, and there's no coolant, so it can't be started or driven. Typical heat issues with #6 cylinder on the 3VZE.
- Battery is shot, won't hold charge.
- Passenger seat slide cable is broken so getting in the back seat is hard
- Some driveline vibration at highway speeds.
- Passenger window won't roll down (motor tests fine, probably bad wire or switch)
- Have OME torsion bars to install, but the adjusters are rusted solid. Will need brute force to remove.
THE UGLY:
- The interior is...musty. Not rotten, but def. needs a deep cleaning.
- Paint sucks, some minor surface rust but no major body cancer or frame rust.
- The rear window is a little funky and sometimes needs a little push to get un-stuck
- Sunroof will leak a bit in a monsoon.
- The roof rack basket is cheap, so it has some rust streak
11-07-2016, 01:41 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
