YotaTech Forums

W56 Reverse Idle Gear, Now Available

Unobtanium Parts — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 03:08:17 GMT

I was contacted with a request to make these gears. Pictured is my test part, and I will be making a batch of these, finishing in June. I will have them up for $189 at that time, but I�m offering a preorder price of $175 until then. There are two versions that I am aware of, one with a 8mm groove width and one with a 10mm.

Below is the pre-order link. I should have a batch ready in June

https://www.unobtaniumparts.com/product-page/preorder-toyota-w56-reverse-idle-gear-8mm-groove-width

W56 Reverse Idle Gear, Now Available

Unobtanium Parts — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 02:52:02 GMT

[img alt="I was contacted with a request to make these gears. Pictured is my test part, and I will be making a batch of these, finishing in June. I will have them up for $189 at that time, but I�m offering a preorder price of $175 until then. There are two versions that I am aware of, one with a 8mm groove width and one with a 10mm.

I have good news! I�m making brand new chromoly reverse idle gears. Below is the pre-order link. I should have a batch ready in June

"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yotatech.com-vbulletin/1900x2000/img_0584_7f8b4f4335c9a956611f8d8360fce4f0de45d870. jpeg[/img]
I was contacted with a request to make these gears. Pictured is my test part, and I will be making a batch of these, finishing in June. I will have them up for $189 at that time, but I�m offering a preorder price of $175 until then. There are two versions that I am aware of, one with a 8mm groove width and one with a 10mm. Below is the pre-order link. I should have a batch ready in June.

https://www.unobtaniumparts.com/product-page/preorder 10mm groove

https://www.unobtaniumparts.com/product-page/preorder-toyota-w56-reverse-idle-gear-8mm-groove-width

Duramax Delete Pipe Questions and Considerations

notele — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 22:33:04 GMT

Hello everyone,

I am researching exhaust modifications for my Duramax diesel truck and keep coming across discussions about delete pipes. I am trying to understand what a delete pipe actually changes in the exhaust system and why some owners choose to install it.

How does it affect engine performance, fuel economy, reliability, and maintenance in the long term? I am also concerned about emissions compliance and inspection requirements in different regions. Are there legal risks or penalties associated with such modifications?

I would appreciate insights from experienced owners on whether the benefits outweigh the drawbacks in real-world driving conditions please.

Where Does This Part Go (4Runner)

Phear — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 18:49:11 GMT

I took apart most of my 1989 4Runner a few years ago. I'm just now getting parts de-rusted, primed and painted.
Can someone tell me the correct location where this part (there is a Left and Right part) goes? Thanks.

Rear window breakdown

tns1 — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 03:11:55 GMT

My 1998 4runner ltd has the usual issue with the rear window. I sometimes carry long lumber which I hang out the back window. I found out what happens if you have too much weight resting on the window - one or both sides of the glass will drop down into the hatch. The reason is the window regulator has two scissor arms powered by the motor. At the end of these arms is a spherical pivot bolt which snaps into a plastic slider/roller bushing, which in turn slides/rolls in two metal guide rails attached to the window glass. Too much weight will cause the thin scissor arms to twist and the pivots to pop out of those plastic sliders.

In the future I think I will build a simple wood frame for my lumber to rest on instead of the window glass.

In my case it was simple to remove the regulator cover plates, raise the regulator and glass to about 3/4 closed, and pop the pivots back into their sliders by squeezing with channellock pliers. One of these sliders is cracked but still holding. Others have reported that you cannot buy those sliders or rails for the gen3, only the entire regulator assy. I do see used ones on Ebay. I have to wonder if some other toyota model uses those same plastic parts, otherwise drilling out the pivots and attaching a small ball bearing might be a lasting fix.

Does anyone have a manual page showing all the related parts belonging to the hatch?

Efi relay burning up�

That�92sr5 — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 22:22:58 GMT

Efi relay is blowing/burning up�
1992 3vze 4x4 203k miles
Damn thing just died coming home one day, swapped the efi & starter relay and it wouldn�t crank. (Cranked fine on the starter relay) finally had a chance to revisit it yesterday. I put the starter relay in the efi spot and jumped the starter. It started right up and ran an hour no problem. Got a new relay today and beings as I suspected the efi would burn up I put the new one on the starter, cranks no start-swap the relays starts and runs fine.
The efi relay gets super hot, like so hot it�ll burn you if you touch it for just barely a second.
Pulled the relay and from the looks of it pin 87 is burnt. That�s the pin that feeds the output for the efi (fuel pump + injectors)
Anyone have experience with this or know where to start?

what parts do i need to pair auto trans to 3.4 on 2nd gen

milichoppa — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 04:35:32 GMT

I'm doing the 3.4 swap on my 1994 4runner with a A340H transmission but i haven't really seen any information on what torque converter or what i will be needing to pair up the 3.4 to the trans. i plan on using the 3.4 flywheel if that's possible, apart from that engine wise i pretty much have most of it figured out since there is so much information on it online. if any one can help me out with my transmission questions i would greatly appreciate in. thank you

FS [PacNorWest]: 1st gen 4runner rear seat delete

ovrarok — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 19:20:39 GMT

rear seat delete for 1st gen 4runner. 400 firm. Located in placerville ca

98 Tacoma 2.7 4 cylinder Resurrection

Tigerfreak — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 17:31:57 GMT

Background. I have had this truck since it was new off the lot. Its a 98 Taco 2.7 4 cylinder 4x4 extra cab 6 lug. I had a 6 in Trailmaster lift installed years ago. Anyway, long story, but my truck has been parked for many a years. Im going get her back on the road. To start with im replacing the Traildisaster lift. I am looking into the Tuff County 5 inch lift. It says it will not work on the 4 cylinder trucks. No one can give me an answer as to why? It has 6 lug wheel spindles. I still have all my original parts also. Has anyone ever done this successfully on a 4 cyc?

Value for a 1983 Toy Trailblazer

maistroyoda — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 15:58:07 GMT

Hi everyone, I recently came across an 83 Toyota Trailblazer in a somewhat abandoned/dilapidated warehouse. I first thought it was a pickup, but after closer inspection and finally making contact with the owner, it's a real deal Trailblazer. It was parked and left some time in the 90's. It's a bit rough inside and out (passenger side is covered in bird poop), but the owner says it has about 70k original miles and he has the title (he bought it new). He says it's missing the radiator but everything else should be there. We plan on really checking it out in greater detail in the near future. What do you all think would be a fair price for this beauty that needs a makeover? Thank you all in advance and I hope to hear from you.

1980 Toyota Chinook Resurrection

Tin Whisperer — Mon, 20 Apr 2026 23:05:40 GMT

Hello everybody.

I'm starting to resurrect my Toyota Chinook project. I originally finished and did a lot of RVing in this rig in 2009. It's now been sitting for a very long time so I'm cleaning it up and renovating it. I'll post some pictures of it soon.

I recently replace the carburetor and got this machine back up and running .

So the current point I'm at is installing new fenders. I am missing the original bolts which wouldn't be an issue for U clamp nuts on the top of the Fender but the issue I'm having is finding a bolt that fits the threads that are right into the body at the bottom of the Fender.

Any information will be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I'm gonna have a lot more questions along the way. Thank you!

1980 Toyota pickup lower front Fender bolt thread

Leaking Steering Box - I think

chrismelto — Mon, 20 Apr 2026 19:11:59 GMT

Facing the front of my truck, the steering box is to the right of the radiator, there is a hole on the left side of the steering box on the top. When I put ATF into the reservoir, it just drains out immediately from this hole. I tried puttig a screw into this hold, but it threads down and never tightens. What is this hole? Why is the ATF draining out of this hole?

Grille Clips

Sumuno — Mon, 20 Apr 2026 18:54:44 GMT

Had to remove grille and noticed lots of cracks (fixed) and clips missing or broken. Cant find any around here, anyone know a source or have extras. I�m in Canada but depending on price and shipping i am close to border.

Persistent Hub Squealing Noise Diagnosis

22RENE — Sun, 19 Apr 2026 16:00:05 GMT

Hey folks,

EDIT: I noticed this wasn't in my signature (just edited) but just in case: 1990 DLX pickup reg cab.

I noticed a squeal/squeaking noise coming from my front end in the fall of last year. It�s coming from the front left hub area and is definitely not related to the brakes. The noise is intermittent, and will start/stop for days at a time, or just a single drive in a day, or just for a few minutes while I�m driving.

I went nuts trying to figure out where it was coming from and took apart the hub multiple times, checked my brakes, etc. I found this wear/discoloration pattern on the spindle, which I couldn�t feel with a fingernail, but sanded it down with emery cloth and thought it looked pretty good.

This made no difference and I also needed to rebuilt a CV axle and had been wanting to do my upper + lower ball joints so it all came apart again - this time I installed new wheel bearings as well. The noise was still there.

The only thing that ended up seeming to get rid of it was the temperature. I live in the Northeast US and this was all in November/December. Once the temperatures permanently dropped below then 40s/50s, the noise went away entirely...

Until last week when it�s been warmer here and I heard this little squeaking noise come back. It�s driving me crazy!

So what could it be? I have two theories

The inner race of then wheel bearings are spinning on the spindle. I use the 4crawler method to torque the wheel bearings and have done this procedure many times. Is it possible I just need to torque at a higher spec on this side due to the now worn bearings? Otherwise, is it possible to replace just the spindle? I see that trail gear makes this one but it�s not clear to me how to actually replace it on the knuckle or if maybe the year is a typo and that�s for a solid axle knuckle. My other route is going used but there aren�t a lot of parts Toyotas out here.
The noise is coming from something else- maybe the brass bushing? I don�t know much about this part/have never done any maintenance on it. However, when I rebuilt my CV axle it was REALLY hard getting the little snap ring back on, like the axle was just barely getting in. Maybe some tolerance in there is too tight and somethings rubbing on the bushing? I don�t think this makes sense since the axle isn�t spinning unless it�s locked in but I�m trying to stay open minded�

For good measure, picture of the truck about to hit Engineers Pass in CO when I was out there a few years ago:

New to forum: Weld in repair panels - 1991 Pickup 4x4?

vespaman1 — Sat, 18 Apr 2026 18:28:30 GMT

Hi everyone - New to this forum but I have owned my 1991 3VZ since 2000 (150K miles!) and feel like it is time for a little aesthetic love. I'm sure I'll have many questions and I am excited to slowly learn and give back as my project progresses. My local body shop said that if I remove panels and bring them to them they'll be happy to paint the professionally. First step will be both fenders, the hood, and whatever the grill thingy is called that the windshield wipers stick out of. Both fenders have significant rust at the base where they attach with two bolts by the lower door hinge. I could see this area was in bad shape but once I removed the right one I found it was worse than I thought. My initial idea was to get two new fenders to address the rust. Looking online I found they are discontinued and settled on a $100 right hand side one from PartsGeek.com. For $100 I was willing to risk the quality and see what showed up before I ordered the left .

Today I unbolted the old one and found that the mounting point is pretty much rusted through. I am OK at welding and since this is an area that is not really seen I was wondering if there are patch panels available? I suppose I could bang something together but I'd much rather weld in a new connection point in the area that the body panel completely covers. This is what it looks like this morning:

The next step was to test fit the new panel and I am not impressed. It looked right but when it was put in place it just showed how slightly different the quality was. I tweaked it as best I could but each solution in one area meant a problem somewhere else. Little discrepancies that means nothing really lines up as well as the original.

Huge gap to the bumper when all bolted solid:

So if I am going to take the time to do a project I might as well do it right. The rest of the original fender is in great shape, so here's where I jump in a little over my head, but think I might make this work. I plan to use the new fender but only as a small replacement part for the old one. I will cut out the area in the image below and do the same with the new fender and tack weld and then final weld it into the old fender. Worst case is I lose $100 and need to take it to someone who actually welds for a living.

So back to the original question: Do patch panels for the lower cab mounting point area exist or do I need to make something from scratch? I had a look and maybe I am just calling them the wrong thing in my search. Any resources to recommend?

Thanks - wish me luck.