Front Sway Bar/End Link Bushing Replacement 3rd Gen 4Runner
7/3/2003

Parts Needed:
End Link Bushings
Sway Bar Bushings
Grease

If you're just interested in replacing the bushings and using the stock brackets, then I recommend the Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit from Wheeler's Off Road.

If you would like to install greasable bushings, then use the following information:

Energy Suspension 1” greasable sway bar bushings, part number 9-5161-G.

The “G” does not stand for “greasable”; rather it means that the bushings are “graphite impregnated”.
The poly/graphite bushings help to further reduce squeaking.
Thanks to Jalaber and his write-up for the information on that.

In addition, you'll need to pick up the following from your local hardware store for use in mounting the new brackets:

(4) M8 x 1.25 x 30 mm bolts, grade 8.8

(4) M8 lock washers

(4) M8 Nylock nuts

I apologize that there are no pictures actually taken during the job.
Since I greased these bushings by hand, I was way too dirty to take any pictures.

This job can be completed without jacking up your rig, especially if you have any sort of lift.

I had originally ordered a front sway bar bushing kit from Wheeler's Off Road.  This comes with end link bushings, sway bar bushings, and bump stops.  It's a nice kit.  You have a choice of colors – sort of.
The end link bushings and bump stops come in red or black, but the sway bar bushings only come in black.
The only downside to these is that they are only the bushings, so that means they are non greasable.
That is, you'll re-use the stock brackets, which do not have zerk (grease) fittings on them, and if you decide to re-grease the bushings at a later time, you'll need to first remove them from the brackets.

I ended up shearing off a stud on one of the brackets, so I had a choice:  either replace the bracket, or for the same cost, pick up a set of greasable bushings.  I opted for the second choice.

Energy Suspension makes a greasable sway bar bushing set, and it comes with new brackets.  The only thing this one lacks is the nuts and bolts needed to mount the darn things.

NOTE:  The bushings are physically different between greasable and non greasable models – there's a hole in them, so grease can flow in from the zerk fitting.  Therefore, I was unable to purchase just brackets with a grease fitting.
Luckily, the Energy Suspension kit comes with both the bushings and brackets.

First thing to do is to make sure the vehicle is sufficiently cool.  You'll read why very soon.
Next, hit the sway bar nuts and bolts with PB Blaster, or whatever variation of liquid wrench you may have on hand.
There are two sway bar brackets, and on each bracket, there is one bolt and one nut to loosen.
At the end of the bracket closest to the engine, there is a stud forged in to the bracket.  You'll need to loosen the nut on that one.
At the end of the bracket facing the rear of the vehicle, there is a bolt that comes down through the bracket.
Make sure these are well soaked, as it is easy to shear off the studs on these brackets.
I speak from experience! (See above)

Next, using a 12 mm socket, loosen the sway bar brackets.  Just loosen them, don't remove them completely.  You'll also notice that on the PS bracket, the exhaust pipe runs just close enough to the bracket to make working in there a real pain.  This is why the vehicle should be cooled off before you start this job.

Once the brackets are loose, you can move on to the end links.  Rotate the wheels to give yourself better access to the end link.  Use a 14 mm socket on the nut, and also use a 14 mm open-end wrench below the bushings to stabilize the end link.

Once the nut is off, rotate the end link out, and then remove the old bushings.
Grease up your new ones (grease is provided in the kit from Wheeler's), and install them.
Finish one side at a time.

Once the end links are finished, you can move on to the sway bar.  I found it easiest to do one side at a time here also.
Remove the nut and bolt from the bracket, and drop it down.
Slide the bushing over from underneath the mounting points, and then slip it off of the sway bar.

If you're going to re-use the stock brackets with the bushings from Wheeler's, then just grease up the bushings, put them in the brackets, and re-install.

If you're installing new, greasable bushings and brackets, then you'll basically proceed as above, with the main difference being the hardware you'll use to mount them.
The new brackets come with washers, but you'll need to provide everything else as listed in the parts section.

Put a washer on a bolt, and slip it up through the hole in the frame.  Then use a lock washer and a Nylock nut to tighten things down.

The socket size you'll use here depends on the head of the bolts you use.  In my case, the heads were 13 mm.  I held the 13 mm wrench on the nut, and then tightened the bolt down with the 13 mm socket.
This is not trivial however, as the PS can be a bear with that exhaust pipe in your way.
Be patient though, and you'll get it!

Once everything is secured, you're all done!

If you choose to do this mod good luck, and if you have any questions  (mertztr) on the Yotatech Forum.

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