Fuel Atomizer On the 3.4 V6 Engine
3/5/2003

After I installed and adjusted the device on my 1996 Toyota 4Runner, I noticed a moderate increase in economy. I gained between 1.5-5.0 miles per gallon. I figured the gain wouldn't be significant due to the fact that I have a supercharger with all the additional fuel system upgrades. The Apex’i S-AFC was defeating the primary purpose of the device alone.

I wasn't entirely disappointed, though. After a month of driving my truck with the device installed, I noticed something just as beneficial as the extra mileage. The device was preventing A LOT of junk from being re-circulated through the engine. The junk consisted of unburned fuel, oil, and other contaminants. I was impressed.
So, for those of you who are interested in this device, the installation, and the results, the following should be helpful.

Before installing the Fuel Atomizer, it is beneficial to have a “baseline” to gauge any gain or loss of fuel economy after the installation of the unit. Keep track of your mileage at every fill-up. Note what kind of driving was done (for example: highway, city, combination city/highway, 4WD). I have created an Excel spreadsheet to monitor my mileage. E-mail me and I will gladly send you a copy of what I use.

Items required:
Fuel Atomizer
Should include:
1/8” copper tubing
NPT valve with hose fittings
3”  length 3/8” I.D. clear tubing
1” length 3/8” O.D. copper tubing

Items you will need:
6 feet 3/8” fuel line (high pressure fuel injection hose recommended)
Thermo-Tec Thermo Shield or equivalent insulating material (optional)
New PCV valve (optional)
7 Small hose clamps
Latex gloves
Thread sealing tape
Pliers
Flat screw driver
A means to cut fuel hose (razor, etc.)

INSTALLATION:
1. The Fuel Atomizer must be located as far away from heat sources as possible. I located mine behind the air intake box. There was an existing hole that the supplied screw fit perfectly. Do not secure it in place just yet and do not screw the sludge chamber (a.k.a. glass jar) into place yet.

Next, the gas line fitting will need to be installed into the fuel return line. The fuel return line is best accessible on the drivers side of the engine bay. Both the fuel supply and fuel return lines are held in place by a bracket bolted to the fender. The fuel return line is the smaller of the two pictured.

2. Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal. Remove the gas cap to relieve pressure from the tank. After all pressure has been released, screw the cap back in. Place a rag under the fuel return line. If you have latex gloves, put them on.
3. Cut the return line and be prepared for spilled fuel. There will be moderate pressure, but not a lot. One or two rags should be sufficient to catch all the fuel.
4. Install the gas line tee into the fuel return line. Make sure the valve is completely closed.
The wire ties are only temporary in the picture. They have been replaced with hose clamps.

5. Now, uncoil the 1/8” copper tubing. If you choose to wrap the tubing with insulating material, now is the time to do it. I used Thermo-Tec Thermo Shield. It has an adhesive backing and is easy to work with. I then wrapped vinyl tape the opposite direction so that, in the event the Thermo Shield adhesive failed, the insulation wouldn't fall off. Wrap thread sealing tape around the gas line tee threads and secure the copper tubing into place.
6. Route the 1/8” tubing to the Fuel Atomizer. Keep it as far away from heat sources as possible. Use shallow bends to avoid crimping the tubing. I placed mine at the back of the engine bay along the firewall.
7. Wrap thread sealing tape around the thread on the gas inlet valve on the Fuel Atomizer then secure the copper tubing in to place on the unit.

8. Locate the PCV valve and hose. It is on the passengers side valve cover. Remove the hose connecting the PCV valve to the intake plenum.

9. Cut a 4 foot length of 3/8” fuel hose and attach one end to the intake plenum. Do not attach the opposite end yet.

10. If you choose, now would be a good time to replace the PCV valve. Gently pull it out of the grommet and replace it with a new one.
11. Attach the remaining 2 foot piece of 3/8” fuel line to the PCV valve and secure it with a hose clamp.
12. Attach the opposite end to the Fuel Atomizer. Trim the fuel line as needed.

Testing and adjusting the Fuel Atomizer:
13. Locate the 1” length of 3/8” copper tubing and the 3” length of clear tubing. Insert the copper tubing into the clear tubing leaving ½” exposed. Secure it with a hose clamp.
14. Attach the brass tubing to the open end of the 4 foot fuel line.
15. Attach the opposite end of the clear tubing to the Fuel Atomizer.
16. Screw the sludge chamber onto the unit.
17. If any fuel was spilled anywhere other than the rags when the return line was cut, clean that area with a degreaser and spray it down generously with water.
18. Reconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
19. Make sure the gas line tee valve and adjustment valve on the Atomizer is completely closed.
20. Start the engine. Make sure no fuel is seeping past the seals on the gas line tee. If there is, turn off the engine and diagnose the problem (cracked line, loose connection, loose clamp, etc.)
21. Open the gas line tee valve ¼ turn. Again, make sure there are no fuel leaks around the gas line tee or the fuel supply connection to the Atomizer.
22. If there are no leaks, push the adjustment lever down slowly until you can see liquid fuel in the clear tubing.

23. Raise the lever (close the valve) slowly until very little liquid fuel is seen passing through the tube. Lock the lever in place with the wing nut.
24. Shut the engine off.
25. Disconnect the clear tubing from the Atomizer and fuel hose.
26. Connect the fuel hose to the Atomizer and secure it with a hose clamp.
27. Secure the unit behind the air box with the supplied screw.

The Fuel Atomizer is now ready to be road tested:
Several adjustments will need to be made over the next few tanks of fuel. Use your spreadsheet to monitor your mileage. Open the adjustment valve a tiny bit at a time until you notice a loss of fuel economy. The only reason for a loss is TOO MUCH FUEL. Close the valve until economy rises again.

The sludge chamber will need to be emptied every 1 to 3 months. I usually have to empty it and clean it out every oil change.

If you choose to do this task good luck, and if you have any questions  (HaveBlue) on the Yotatech Forum.

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