The 96-98 models’ intake plumbing is different than the 99-02. Take a look at the pic below:

Take a look at the pic below:

As you can see, compared to the 99-02 intake, there are a few boxes branching off of the main intake hose that runs from the output of the MAF to the Throttle Body. We will be eliminating Part #’s 9, 10 & 11 from the intake path. The mod isn’t accomplished quite as simply as it is on the newer trucks because of this fact. However, this can be a good thing. You have several options with this truck. I will detail them in order of the most expensive to the most frugal. At the end of the three options I will detail the items of the mod that are common to each option to avoid repeating myself several times.

The intake system hoses between the MAF and Throttle Body on the 99-02 4Runners will fit on the 96-98 models.

Take a look at the pic below:

This is a pic of the 99-02 models. Parts 10 & 11 along with Clamps part # 13 will retrofit onto the intake system of the older trucks. Then you can make a pipe similar to the pipe made for the 99-02 trucks. I met up with YotaTech forum member Micker, who owns a 96 Limited. We test fit my intake on his truck and it was an exact fit. I would make the Silencer Replacement Pipe a tad longer than the pipe made for the 99-02 trucks. The reason for this is to give the intake a little “play” for engine movement.

Here are my recommended dimensions:

Length – 6.00"
Diameter - ID - 2.5"
Diameter - OD - 2.625" ~ 2.75” (Larger than 2.75” OD will be a tight squeeze.)
Pipe is 14G Mild Steel.

The advantages to doing the mod this way:
1. Cleaner engine bay. No more black boxes hanging everywhere.
2. Smoother, straighter airflow path with the newer intake hoses.
3. It's a plug and play install.

The disadvantages are:
1. Cost is considerably higher than the following two methods.
2. I can't think of any other bad points… :D If it were my truck, I would choose this option.

The prices at the dealer for part #’s 10 & 11 for the 99-02 hoses are as follows:

Part #10 ~  $36.19 with a 15% discount.
Part #11 ~ $27.09 with a 15% discount.

I did a little searching a found the same parts at a wrecking yard for $45 plus shipping. This price also included the Clamps, part #13.

J Shaped Resonator – 1 11/16” OD
Front Silencer (Big Box) – 2 5/16” OD
Rear Silencer (Small Box) – 15/16” OD

There might be as much as 1/8” of room to go larger than these dimensions. Simply find some plumbing end caps of the appropriate diameter and clamp them in place of the boxes. Face the “Cap” towards the inside of the intake hose to minimize the size of the pocket it will create inside the hose. This will help minimize turbulence. You can use ABS, PVC, and Copper, Aluminum or Stainless Steel end caps. Whatever are the handiest and your own personal choice.

Advantages:
1. It's less money than Option #1.
2. It helps clean up the engine bay. No more black boxes.

Disadvantages:
1. The benefit of an “OEM” appearance is lost.
2. Not as smooth of an intake path as Option #1.
3. Might be difficult to find the appropriate diameter end caps.

Remove the three boxes from your intake hose. Clean the inlets really well, then cover them with Duct Tape and reinstall them. Voila!!! You're done. I don't recommend this as a permanent fix, but at least you can check it out this way.

Advantages:
1. It's damn cheap! Who doesn't have Duct Tape?
2. Did I mention how cheap this is?
3. It's quick. (And cheap.)
4. You can “Try before you buy.”

Disadvantages:
1. Not a permanent fix.
2. It shows everybody what a skinflint you are.
3. It leaves those nasty big boxes hanging everywhere.

The Common Stuff - Stuff you just gotta do.

Okay, now that we've looked at 3 ways to make this mod happen, let's take a look at some stuff you're going to have to do no matter which option you choose.  (This is Loosehead’s truck, 1998.)

Take a look at the pic below:

See the hose attached to the top right corner of the Silencer? That goes to your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). No matter which Option you've chosen, you've basically cut off air from reaching that hose. We will need to make a Tee fitting to attach that hose. This part of the mod will be just like the 99-02 setup. We can use the same parts for the Tee.

Here's the Pic:

I know what you're saying, “But there's TWO Hoses attached to the Silencer on MY truck.” Take a look at this pic: (This is Micker’s truck, 1996.)

Here's the Pic:

See the hose on the front of the Silencer that heads downward? It goes to your Power Steering Pump (PSP). You will need to use 2 Tee fittings. Connect the first Tee to the intake plenum as it is on the single hose systems, then add another Tee on the hose going towards the FPR Fitting, send one side of the Tee to the FPR and the remaining side goes to the PSP.

Okay. Well that's it for now! Thanks for stopping by. Good luck on this. If you have any ideas for more ways to do this mod for the 96-98 owners, shoot me a line and I will update this article, giving credit where credit is due.

Thanks goes to Loosehead and Micker for the willingness to be guinea pigs with their trucks and for providing me with great information.
 

Dr. Zhivago
If you choose to do this mod good luck, and if you have any questions  (Dr. Zhivago) on the Yotatech Forum.

New information has been brought up on doing this to the 2002 3.4 engines. Please click here for more info.

Back to YotaTech

PS, stay tuned all you 3.0 fans. Blu is working on a write-up using the Doc's method here, and we will have it online at YotaTech soon.
Rumor has it he is very well pleased with the performance on the 3.0 engine.
Hey! It's done and online now. View Blu's write-up here.
Corey