crash

It depends on aplication. There are a # of variables I use to figure cost's

ChrisCo

dernit! I wish I'd of caught this thread the other day! I was off work Thursday and Friday, and I woulda' come over to assist! Instead, I spent the first quarter of yesterday's work time normalizing, then quenching a blade... The other 3/4 went to trying to straighten it back out after the quench...dang'd thing ended up crookeder than a politition

I saw it out front yesterday afternoon, and was wondering if that was Gibby's rig... That thing is friggin' huge!

Nice work (not that I'd expect any less from ya')

crash

Glad to see ya getting back to the hobby

crash

Now that the frame is prepped, time to get the big heavy stuff ready...

Here is the th350



Here is the 203 (unfortunatley I am missing a couple internal parts so it will have to come back off)

crash

I gave up trying to pick this heavy A$$ 205 Got it all cleaned up and ready




And here is the whole works bolted up. Gotta love a good quality tranny jack.




Got the tranny wheeled under the rig, so, now it was time for the other heavy item.

crash

Now here is where the tricky part starts, getting everything in, making it fit, and making everything jive together. Right now I am just pre-fitting it(usually will have a motor in/out 3-4 times to get it right) to see where, if any sheet metal needs some lovin



So I got it where I wanted it and got a few things figured out (fit was pretty decent for a first shot) and pulled the motor back out.

So before it goes back in, I needed to first build the new motor mounts(on the engine side)

Here is how they turned out( due to header clearance and the mechanical fuel pump, was a tight/tricky fit)





So, now that was completed, it was time to give the firewall its first taiste of mr. 2 pound sledge



The lower corners of where the tunnel/firwall meet will also need some luvin due to the bellhousing...

ChrisCo

Well, I've been working on that blade for quite a while now... It took me a full weekend to forge it to shape, then another to grind the edge...

Any ideas what the heck kind of steel the steering shaft of a '73 FJ-40 is made from? Dang that some tuff stuff to forge!

OK, thread-jack over... You're just getting to the part I enjoy

midiwall

Wow... _AWESOME_ thread.

Thank you for taking the time to track this Crash!

Yoda

Hey Crash,
Does the 4runner have A/C? If so, you hookin it back up? I didn't remember seeing anything A/C on there.

Hmmmm, I have a certain Landcruiser that I'm not happy with the motor mounts. I was looking at these to replace mine.

pic about half way through thread
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...ht=motor+mount

They are designed for chev in a cruiser, somewhat adjustable, then most guys weld them

Yoda

Hey ChrisCo,
You living in the same neighborhood as Crash? I knew you're up there somewhere.

We were thinking about running the pit up there sometime (soon?)

upndair

It did have A/C and we're going to try to retain it if we can.

WATRD

He's just around the corner from Crash. Every time I drive up there, I flip Crash off, just on general principles, to keep his head from getting too big hahhahhahahah

WATTORA is putting the final details on a Reiter run on the 22nd if you want to come play with us.

uboatcmndr

Man this is great! Who's got the popcorn?

ChrisCo

Yup, I'm literally just about a hundred yards from the doors of his shop (if that far)

Yoda

Was it an R12 system or a 134a system? Should be able to install a GM compressor for the correct freon, and get the hoses fabbed for it. I used to do A/C work before Boeing.

upndair

I think we're going to try to reuse the Toy A/C.

crash

I am going to try and use the stock a/c compressor, but, we will have to see. As its looking now, custom lines will need to be made due to the location where the compressor will have to go....

upndair

Any pics or updates from today?

crash

Its been slow going, didn't spend any time on it on sunday due to family stuff. But it is going forwards, and actually welding the motor mounts in place and then some fine tuning on sheet metal....

crash

After a few times of yanking the motor, I finally found right where I wanted it.



The 205 is a tight fit, and will have to re-work the coolant lines for the rear heater, it will all fit. Another issue I might have, the horseshoe x-member will probably need to be notched for the drivehsaft to clear.



So now that I have the motor in perfect placement, the risers for the engine mounts are tached into place and it was time to pull the motor one last time (hopefully)

crash

And here is how the finished product looks. One thing I have found, to run the riser to the top edge of the frame and then gusset it to help dispurse the load against the frame. I haven't had a single failure and one rig I did, the owner loves the skinny pedal Also, if you look, the motor is 3/4" to the drivers side, to help with clearance of the front driveshaft to trany pan. Granted, due to the fact the front 60's center section is inboarded about 1.5" from the stock spring perch, I have a feeling there will be a clearnace issue, but there is nothing that can be done except restrict compression of the suspension.






I also found a lil more firewall work was in need. The right middle area was needed to help clear the right hand rear corner of the valve cover.



And the fireawall also needed more work where the distributor sits. For those of you running a stock tbi setup with the stock distributor won't have this issue as its small.



So tommorow night I will get the motor dropped back in, and will have to work a little on the front edge of where the tunnel meets the firwall (just the drivers side)...

upndair

[QUOTE=crash]Also, if you look, the motor is 3/4" to the drivers side, to help with clearance of the front driveshaft to trany pan. Granted, due to the fact the front 60's center section is inboarded about 1.5" from the stock spring perch, I have a feeling there will be a clearnace issue, but there is nothing that can be done except restrict compression of the suspension.
[QUOTE]

There may be another option here, other than limiting compression, and that's a thinner front driveline. We could go with a front driveline like S&N build using axle shafts. They're a good 2" thinner than the current driveline.

KING

Once again, amazing work by Crash.

Impressively done.

crash

[QUOTE=upndair][QUOTE=crash]Also, if you look, the motor is 3/4" to the drivers side, to help with clearance of the front driveshaft to trany pan. Granted, due to the fact the front 60's center section is inboarded about 1.5" from the stock spring perch, I have a feeling there will be a clearnace issue, but there is nothing that can be done except restrict compression of the suspension.
A smaller diameter will help, but, its not going to stop it from hitting unfortunately due to where the pinion sits ( I may be wrong though)

Thanks King, so far its going good..

upndair

Can the output be rotated down a little, or would that not help? The doubler looks like it could be redrilled to move front output down and inch or two. I know the pics can be deceiving, but it looks like the output may go beside the tranny pan??
The center section wasn't inboarded (I don't think.). The right side spring perch is in the factory location. Are you saying the the center section is moved closer to the center line compared to where it would have been prior to being shortened and retubed?