theMonch

Thanks, yeah I'm psyched about getting it going. I am waiting on stage 8 header bolts so I can put the finishing touches on it and get it going. Hopefully they will be here in the next few days. I should come along rather quickly once they are here.

theMonch

For the last two weeks I have been doing a little here and there while I wait for parts.

The supercharger is on and I have been taking care of the little details.

Fuel High Pressure: I used a brand new stock '97 T100 high pressure hose and did the "flip" technique to get it on the passenger side. I then spliced in the tee from URD for the 7th injector. This allowed me to shorten the stock hose considerably, since the URD kit uses hose barb ends with clamps. This made for a nice neat install. I had to bend the stock hard line from the tank a little to gain enough clearance for the Downey headers I am running.
Fuel Low Pressure: I used some new fuel injection grade hose to run from the engines low pressure return to the stock tank hard line return.
Oil Filter Relocation: I started a seperate thread on this and you can see what I wound up with here.
Throttle Cable: I used the one from the '97 T100 donor. I did this because the travel distance of the two cable are different slightly. The 3.4 cable traveled approx 1/2-1/2 inch more than my stock 3.0 cable. This coupled with my 3.0 cable was starting to get wear on the plastic cable coating it was a no-brainer. The cable bolted right in place and attached to the pedal assembly identically.
Brake Booster Vacuum Line: I used one of the hoses from the 3.0 setup and the hose from the 3.4 setup to retain the vacuum check valve that was stock with the 3.0. This should yield identical brake booster performance to stock.
EVAP system: I decided to go with the stock 3.0 canister in it's stock position and the VSV's from the 3.4 setup. This left me with the most engine compartment space and made for a neat setup. I made a custom aluminum bracket to hold the three components neatly on the passenger side firewall. I ran the vacuum hosing as per ORS's conversion instructions, with a little help from Brenenraj's pictures for reference.
Cruise Control: My '88 has the vacuum type CC that has the cable going to the throttle pedal and not the butterfly. I spliced the vacuum line for it into the purge return line from the EVAP that goes into the supercharger's driver side vacuum port. I did this because it was the shortest route to manifold vacuum and I have read a few things about trouble with a good vacuum source. This coupled with the speed sensor wire hookup in my conversion harness should yield a working CC system.
Heater Hoses: I used parts of the stock 3.0 hoses and got these ran pretty easily. All I did was flip these around a bit to make them hook up to the 3.4's inlet and outlet ports.
Tach Mod: I did the 10k ohm 1/4 watt resistor modification to the back of the tach module itself. I used the picture that I had found here for the "older" style SR5 cluster. While in there I noticed my tach already has a potentiometer (small white dial) on it. I hope between the new resistor and the adjustability allowed by the pot I should have a spot-on tach when finished.

theMonch

Made some more progress this weekend. I put in the URD (walbro 190) fuel pump, finished up on the power wiring underhood from the alt to the battery and the battery to the fuse block. I took this opportunity to pull out all of the aftermarket wiring I have done over the years and put in an aux fuse block that will now be handling all of that stuff.

My header bolts came in that were holding me up and I got the headers on for good hopefully. I put in the alternator, ac compressor and power steering pump and have the front of the motor pretty buttoned up. I went with the stock power steering hoses from the 3.0 setup and they fit perfectly. I had to loose the idle-up vacuum valve that the 3.4 had, but I have plans to get this feature back in the future. I fabricated a bottom bracket for the alternator that does not have adjustability since I have the dynamic tensioner with the S/C setup. This allowed me to position the Alt where it will get the most clearance from the steering linkage.

The fuel pump has relatively easy because of the "trap door" that the 4Runners have to access it under the passenger back seat. The hardest part was getting the wiring connector to unclip for the fuel pump. After 22 years it was stuck togehter pretty good. I PB blaster'ed the bolts and lines on the pump and they came loose without issue. The ground wire from the pump to the connector broke off because of age and I wound up drilling and tapping the connection and affixing with a screw.

I have the conversion harness in place and ran all of the pigtails to their new homes. Here is a pict of the harness with descriptions of what plugs are for what. Don't quote me on the 3.0 plug names (i.e. N3 & N5) as I did this from memory. Once I get it up and running and confirm the wiring, I will be posting up a wire for wire diagram as to what did what and why. The T-100 Evap wiring was part of the dash harness so the EVAP pigtail had to be run up into the engine compartment through the engine harness hole. I also ran the OBD-II power out there as well to attach to my new aux fuse block. In addition I also ran a 10 wire harness that will be for all of my aftermarket electronics up through the same hole.

I hope to have pretty much everything buttoned up by the end of the week for a key-turning ceremony. Then I just have to drive with open headers to the guy doing the exhaust.

Here are those picts. The first is the fuel pump access door opened. The second is the difference in size between the stock '88 fuel pump and the URD/walbro 190 pumps. Hopefully bigger isn't always better. The stocker had to be twice the physical size. ANd the last is the conversion harness that has been taking up my kitchen table for a few weeks (It's good to be single!)

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

looks like a clean project, I will be referencing this thread once I get my runner under way, thanks for the detailed write up!

theMonch

Thanks, I'm trying to go as clean and stock looking as possible. I plan to have it for quite a while longer if the 3.4 works out the way it should.

theMonch

When attempting to button up the accessories this evening I noticed that the pulley on the A/C compressor and the A/C adjustment pulley were not in line with the crank pulley. This would have caused the belt to throw right off when started.

They had to be off by 2-3 degrees. I looked eveything over and came to the conclusion that due to the 3.0 motor mounts sharing the same bolt holes with the compressor bracket (sandwiched underneath), the mounts flange thickness of 3/8" was yawing the bracket and compressor out of alignment. The 3.4 mounts used different mounting holes on the block than the bracket so the bracket used to mount flush against the block. I decided to pull it all apart and gring the necessary 3/8" off of the brackets' lower mounting hole. This allowed for the bracket to position straight and solved the problem. The upper mounting hole that is shared by the mount was offset out, so that just required a couple of washers to sandwich everything tight.

All in all not a huge problem, but it was a little discouraging to have to pull the engine hoist back out to take the weight off of the mount, I thought I was done with it for a while.

I wish I had stopped to take some picts of the bracket with the modification, but I was in a hurry to beat the sun setting. In all of my research I had done, I don't remember anyone having this problem before. I am assuming that it is a T-100 donor specific problem.

I have been taking notes as I go along of all of the T-100 donor pro's and cons that I'll post up when I am done and she's running.

theMonch

Took the day off today and was able to get a bunch more done.

I installed my billet optima battery box, new aluminum core radiator, stainless overflow tank, the stock 3.4 T-100 fan, and got the conversion harness in place loosely for test start-up. I was able to re-use the T-100's lower rad hose, but none of them would fit the top. I'lll have to go to auto parts store tomorrow and look at the wall of hoses to try and get one to do the job. The shroud also doesn't even seem to be close. I'll have to run without a shroud for now until I can figure something else out.

QUESTION: Is anyone successfully running without a shroud?

QUESTION: Does the ECM have to be mounted (grounded) through the bracket for the engine to run? I was hoping on getting things going with it laying on the floor of the passenger side for now, till I can confirm that everything is good to go and button up the harness.

Well here are a few picts of the batt box/overflow tank, the aux fuse box, and an overall of the engine bay as it sits now.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I'm running with shroud, just missing the lower clip for it due to body lift.

The ecu grounds from the wiring harness. So it will run, just don't jump the truck without mounting it.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

Hey, I got the same exact intake parts on my Taco! I insulated the chrome portion with some hot water heater insulation and some aluminum tape and made a home-made isolator box out of some stuff from home depot, looks gettho but works OK.

Had to comment as I just put those same parts in mine lol

Nice looking, good luck on that first crank

theMonch

Yeah it's the $65 intake special that they sell on eBay. I figured it was a good cheap way to solve the intake problem and not have to shoehorn in the stock airbox. I hate the chrome look and will probably be painting it black or something.

I also plan to make an isolator shield from sheet steel from home depot as well. But for now it's all on the back burner till I get this thing running, I can't believe how much I miss it as my daily driver.

hamish_18

lol I was going to comment on that as well. Same intake as mine. Bastards are gettin' rich off us! lol

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

Here's the link to some photos of my 'custom' intake. Autozone chrome tube ($40) some black PVC, stock MAF tube, brass barbs/fuel hose and a box to help insulate. Wrapped the tube with some insulation and aluminum tape, I'm with you on wanting to get rid of the chrome look. It also heats up much more than the stock rubber tube, not sure how much it will rob air density but everything helps.

The box I made out of some crap I got at home depot in the roofing section; some galvanized sheet metal and a role of aluminum flashing + pop rivets and rubberized insulating paint = ghetto but functional.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...esults-205018/

If you want the measurements of the box let me know, it was pretty fun to build. It won't keep all the water or heat out but it has to help.

theMonch

So I just gave it a shot and it runs for a second while cranking, but as soon as I let off the key it stalls out. So immediately I am thinking COR relay wiring. I can hear the COR relay click off a few seconds after it stalls out so I am pretty confident it is staying closed like it should. So then I hot wired the fuel pump directly to make sure it is going and same thing starts right up and then stalls. I remember reading about someone else having this same issue, but I can't seem to find it anywhere.

I have a scanner hooked up and evrything seems to be OK so far no codes or anything. I also double-checked for vacuum leaks, etc.

Anyone have any ideas??

theMonch

So it has been a long and arduous month of working nights and neglecting just about everything else in my life but she's a 4"RUNNER" again. It turns out I had the MAF in backwards (documentation picts to the rescue).

It's running open-header right now and I have quite a few things to button up like the tiny fuel leak coming from the FP gauge that I incorporated into the stock fuel rail, but all in all I should be driving it to get the exhaust hopefully Saturday.

Once the MAF was in straight it started right up and ran perfect. I let it idle for 10-15 minutes to check for leaks, etc then made sure the clutch engaged/disengaged. I'll post up later with specifics on the electrical check rundown, etc., but for right now I have to go back outside and stare at it a little bit more!!

I'll right up an official longwinded thank you to everyone that helped out but for now THANKS EVERYONE!!!

theMonch

Oh, almost forgot the "first-run" payoff video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2grLDhq4fY

mbomberz1

haha thats awesome, congrats man. Sounds pretty beastly with the open headers! Gotta do another video when you get the exhaust all done so we can hear the SC!

hamish_18

Congrats man!

theMonch

Thanks, I lOOOVVVEEE the open headers, but it is a bit much. Will do with the video after the exhaust.

theMonch

Thanks!

theMonch

I know that this COR business has been beat to death, but even after the hours and hours of reading I did last night I still can't seem to find a direct answer.

On my 3.0 application there were two wires that effected the COR Relay/Fuel pump circuit that get lost in the swap. The blu is simply the test lead that used to go out to the Diag port out on the fuse block and the other is the green which came from the MAF sensor (vane type). According to the FSM the green wire from the MAF is grounded when ign on engine NOT running. And NOT grounded when engine is running.

Then we have just the one wire that was interrupted from the 3.4 ECM Grn/Yel. (FC on ECM). This wire is supposed to be energized 12v positive with IGN on and NOT running and switches to less that 3 volts when running.

Right now I simply have the Grn 3.0 wire that was from MAF grounded permanently and it seems to be running fine, but for some reason this just doesnt seem right to me.

So my questions are:

1. Is the 3.4 ECM supposed to have fuel pump on/off control via this FC lead to turn the pump on and off while running via the COR?

2. Will simply leaving the green 3.0 wire grounded all the time lead to any long-term problems?

3. What has everyone else done?

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.

Here are the specifics on the wires and their functions.

3.0 COR wires
(pin 1) Blu - From 3.0 check connector on fuse box to switched pole of COR relay pin location 1
(This wire will energize the fuel pump bypassing the COR for fuel pump testing)
(pin 8) Grn - From AFM to COR relay grounding switch
(AFM will ground this wire when engine NOT running to enable fuel pump during a starting situation)
This should be grounded during IGN on Engine not running
This should be not grounded during engine running


3.4 COR wires
(pin 16) Grn/Yel - From ECM FC terminal to COR relay pin 4
(I believe this energizes the COR relay during a start situation to energize fuel pump. It will change voltage and de-energize the COR relay after ECM detects engine running? )
IG switch ON 9 – 14v
Idling 0 – 3.0v