mcm375

Hi everyone,

You probably remember me as the paranoid guy who rebuilt his 22re recently ultimately to find out that his VAFM was giving the ECU jacked up readings resulting in some rather ridiculously rich fueling conditions.

Well, after pricing out a new VAFM and checking out a series of junkyard units (all buggered in one way or another), I decided to spend a littttttle little bit more on a full blown MegaSquirt setup.

The nice people at Diyautotune.com now have a new kit called DIYPNP. Basically this bridges the gap between their full out "PNP" kit which is available for some specific vehicles, and their VERY "DIY" base MS kits historic and current. It uses Microsquirt as the basis for the ECU.

Of course the greatest "feature" of these kits is that they are plug-compatible with the stock ECU. This is important because while EGR and PAIR devices have been disabled for initial tuning, the ultimate intention is to run a cleaner and more efficient than stock setup, however due to CARB laws I will need to be able to quickly and easily revert to the OEM ECU for smog testing. If you would like to have a debate on the morals of doing this PLEASE PM ME RATHER THAN CLUTTER THIS THREAD.

So, I decided to give it a shot after reading a little about ronmar's efforts on his 22RTE pickup and reading a little background on the DIYPNP kit.

I'm going to write this up over a period of time, as I am still in the final stages of tuning and now would like to do a few things differently which I will explain in due course. For now you will see an outline below plus descriptions and photos from various phases of the project, hopefully this will be detailed enough for anyone to follow along mostly step-by-step using instructions either defined here or referred to from this post.

My Truck

1989 Toyota Pickup
22RE
~1500 miles on rebuilt motor
Daily driver, street vehicle
0.020 over, engnbldr street RV head + valvetrain, total seal rings

Easily Obtained ("Plug N Play") Features of DIYPNP for the 22RE

• Elimination of the troublesome VAFM
• Hugely simplified intake tract
• All the benefits of a Speed Density tune (implicit altitude adjustment, not having to worry about "unmetered air")
• Take advantage of higher octane fuels now available
• Modern software for EFI tuning, features like launch control, wideband EGO controller with PID algorithm control (very cool), comprehensive rev limiting (fuel + spark), table switching via hardware switch.

More Complex Features of the DIYPNP, requiring modifications to the 22RE/Truck

Some of the features I am interested in, for the future:

• Sequential injection (needs individual injector wiring)
• Coil on plug (needs COPs, associated wiring, and crankshaft trigger wheel setup)
• Flex fuel conversion (needs GM's flex fuel sensor in the tank, plus any fuel system hose and seal & injector changes associated with running ethanol)

Parts list, tools, and ordering

I ordered all of my parts from http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/-c-75.html

I used a very basic 40w soldering iron with a fine top for most of this, then started using a nicer temp adjustable 10-60w unit later on. I did most of the work at a setting of 600 deg F which seemed to be appropriate for the size of components involved. I am not hugely experienced in electronics and soldering but have done a little of it before, also I TIG weld so heat control isn't a foreign concept for me. If you have never soldered before either reconsider this project or go watch a few youtube videos (there are HEAPS!), buy a decent soldering unit and practice on some cheap PCBs and componentry from your local electronics store. It really is something that is scarier looking than it really is to do, most of these components are way tougher than you would assume and really there are no super sensitive or tiny tiny suface mount components you work with yourself in the DIYPNP kit.

My parts/tools list

1 x USB to Serial Adapter - Works with MegaTune! (USB-2920) = $20.00
1 x DIYPNP Sequential Injection Kit (DP_SEQMOD-K) = $38.00
1 x Lead Bending Tool (T-LeadBend) = $5.50
1 x MegaSquirt Stimulator / DIYPNP Power Supply (StimPower) = $7.50
1 x DIYPNP Nippon Denso 42pin Unassembled Kit (DIYPNPN42-K) = $460.00
1 x GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail (IATwPiggy) = $22.25

With shipping it came out to right on $600.

Here is a pic of the lead bending tool, I definitely recommend you get this!



I found the packaging and labeling to be FIRST RATE, very clear, and really left no possibility of misinterpreting or confusing something.



The Power Supply is a 12v 0.5a output unit, so if you already have one lying around you don't need to buy one.

The IAT sensor is also optional, I plan on removing the entire intake tract ahead of the throttle body so I need to put an IAT sensor into the manifold. As noted by another individual who has done a MS2 conversion on the 22RE, the upper intake manifold's cold start injector hole can be tapped to fit a very common 3/4 to 3/8 NPT adapter that will fit the GM IAT sensor. Very convenient place for the IAT sensor and you do not need the cold start injector with MS (which incidentally also frees up a nice spot on the fuel rail for a fuel pressor sender!)

Lastly, the sequential injector kit was something you won't be able to use without rewiring the injectors to be able to get at each one individually rather than the two "banks" that are wired into the stock wiring harness. You may not ever care to do this but one day I'd like to play around with this.

Assembly

Read all of this: http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs.html

This page (http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs/main_assembly.html) does a good job of walking through the assembly. I went ahead and installed components for "all features" just in case. This includes the knock sensing circuit which has the most components. I have not set this up yet but it will be interesting to see if the 22RE's KNK pin produces a compatible signal for the DIYPNP circuitry to deal with (can I just hit my block with a hammer to test this? hmm...)

A few resistors soldered in place:



The back side (where you do the soldering) should end up looking a little like this:



I soldered then trimmed the leads from the components, I just found this easier to keep things in place.

With each "layer" of componentry, you will insert the components through, flip the board over and start soldering. It will look like this:



Here I have added all of the resistors for all features:



Here the MAP sensor (top left), and several diodes, capacitors, and a couple of ICs have been added:



Take note of the resistor in the "OPTO+" 12v pullup on the bottom right. This is the only pullup resistor you need to install. You will also need to install a jumper on "OPTO GND". I used a removable jumper shunt for all jumper locations just because I hate hardwiring like that.

Your soldered joints should look like this on the "top side" (other side from that which you are doing the soldering). Note that I am NOT an experienced solderererer, it's just not very difficult with this scale of componentry:



Here the external connectors for Serial (DB9), External inputs/outputs (DB15), and power have been added:



This is the underside of the DB15 layout, note the 15 little jumper wire connection points for anything you need to get in or take out signal wise that isn't already coming in or going out on the 22RE's stock ECU pins. Thus far I have put a signal ground to one of these pins, and my wideband O2 sensor's signal wire on another. There are obviously truckloads of possible uses here, e.g., external switches, LEDs, logic level on-off devices, blah blah. Pay attention to DIYPNP's documentation on which pins have thicker traces which can be used for higher current purposes:



Currently I am using the DB15 pins as follows:

1. Unused
2. Unused
3. Unused
4. Unused
5. Unused
6. Unused
7. Unused
8. Unused
9. Wideband o2 Input
10. Tach Output
11. Unused
12. Unused
13. Unused
14. Unused
15. Signal Ground

All of the basic components have been assembled here, including the boost control (WHAT BOOST?... maybe some day), and four high current ignition outputs (not used for the stock 22RE since you will be driving spark via the VAST system):



After soldering up the 4 ing million pin headers for the Microsquirt module, the main board is complete. Note that the Microsquirt does cover some components but it is attached with a 50 pin and 10 pin header so it can be removed if needed without desoldering.



Note that both the main board and the adapter board has generous "PROTO" area, grids of linked connection points. I used two pairs of spots on the adapter board proto area to take the Knock Circuit Enable jumper out to an area I could put a jumper shunt on. The Microsquirt module covers this jumper location on the main board so thought I would do this for accessibility.

After assembling the main board, jumpering to the adapter board (refer to Ron's jumper configuration linked below!) is what happens next:



I thought I would be clever and do this on the UNDERSIDE and also space the boards apart by enough to get the adapter board slid completely in and out of the case without removing the main board. As you can see, the jumper wires start to really add up:



Jumpering on the underside was a good idea, it keeps the top side clutter free. Spacing them out like shown in the above photo was not such a good idea, it works but it's just not really as useful as I thought and ended up packing a crapload of wire into a small space. If I did it again I would just butt both boards up against each other and jumper on the undersides, then slide both into the case rail mounts at the same time from the same side, THEN attach the end plates.

I followed Ron Marlett's adapter jumper configuration to the letter, as the 1989 22RE (non turbo) is identical for these inputs and outputs: http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...-22rte-mt.html

Here's what she looks like with the case assembled, I have the external power supply and the serial to USB adapter connected here:








Loading Firmware



I found the instructions on DIYPNP to be pretty crap for this. Go with the MS2/Extra code and follow their instructions up to #5 then just follow the prompts the program gives you, ignore #7 as it's just confusing vs what you are actually prompted for with the flash utility.


Plugging the DIYPNP in

Simply unplug the stock ECU and plug those connections into the DIYPNP. Try to pull a little bit of slack from the wiring harness if you can, but don't go crazy and break anything else you will have a fun wiring job on your hands.



Remember to run a vacuum line from the manifold to the MAP sensor input on the DIYPNP! I ran mine through the same grommet as the main wiring harness on the passanger side of the vehicle by poking a little hole through the flexible rubber grommet then feeding a length of alum tig welding rod into the vacuum hose to provide some rigidity such that it could be pushed/fed through into the cabin (1/8" alum rod is good because it can be easily bent to further pull the hose through from the cabin side).



Yes my interior is all effed up! Don't laugh.. I have some broken interior components that I needed access to...

>>>TO BE CONTINUED:<<<

Recommended software

• Firmware: MS2/Extra 2.1.1 beta 20090815 get the latest software package from here
• Tuning Software: TunerStudioMS
• Log Viewer: MegaLogViewer
• Wideband o2: Innovate LC-1 LM Programmer (comes bundled with LogWorks), LC1 Firmware

Setting initial parameters in TunerStudioMS



See my photo album with comments HERE.

Generating an initial VE table

Setting your AFR target table

Here is the AFR target table I have setup for my truck:





Setting your ignition timing table

Firing it up for the first time, idling

My 5 minute guide to tuning!

I am a noobie when it comes to EFI tuning but it really wasn't that hard to get the thing running fairly well in a couple days!

91Toyota

Wow...this thread makes my head spin.

Can you please explain to me (I'm an idiot) why you would need to do this? What are the advantages?

jimep

Makes my head spin too but I've been interested in doing this for a while. Just have ALOT to learn before I'm ready for it... I'm hitting the limits on my truck at about 10 to 11 lbs boost. It would be nice to get more out of it for this price compared to those other standalone kits that cost around or over $1,500. And like everything else on my truck that I built, Why not build the brain for it too... maybe if I can find sombody in my area who knows anything about megasquirting a turbo'd yota pickup I'd get the ball rolling. I'm a little scared to try it myself... I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

mcm375

Definitely you should track down ronmar on the 22rte-turbo site, he has done exactly this with the DIYPNP kit on his turbo truck. The MS can operate boost control devices also, and once you start stepping up injector size to deal with big fueling requirements of high boost applications you really Just Have To deal with the ECU.

mcm375

Well I can climb hills in 4th now, couldn't do that before... Running down to 13.5 AFR around max torque and a little over 12.5-13 AFR around 4500 ~ max power

Of course it all comes down to the tune and what your objectives are. I am quite interested in going leaner on very light loads/cruising to improve mileage.

mcm375

Added some links to the collection of software I use or have needed. Fixed some typos. Will post my current configuration parameters here tonight! I will keep this updated as I tweak things but right now my truck starts, runs, idles pretty well. I still have some fine tuning to do but it's looking pretty good.

I will also add a little write up of the VAST system (well, a link to a write up and my comments on it). I have not found the VAST system to be particularly wonderful to interoperate with, there seems to be an amount of inaccuracy in the signal used to determine crank position with changing engine speeds, and it is not to do with the usual problems described in the DIYPNP ignition setup documentation. I suspect the best way to resolve this is to put a crank trigger wheel and sensor on the car and wire that into one of the DB15's pins for use as a VR input; that way the MS will DEFINITIVELY know the crank position. I believe firing spark via the stock VAST system and distributor will continue to be doable and much more accurate with this. We will see.

jimep

Will have to look him up if he's somewhat local. I want to be able to sit down with someone who has had experience and can help me build and tune it in. It's still a little out of my league. I want to be the one doing it though so if I have issues later I can fix em...I'm running 370 cc injectors on the factory system with a decently built motor and it hasn't given me any issues, good for about 350 hp but I'm only shooting for 250 to 300 tops with no more than 20 lbs boost.

jimep

lol. I'm already doing that with 38's and stock 4.10 gears. at around 3,000 rpms. Imagine if I had mine tuned (and got 5.29's for it) the gears come first though as soon as i can afford them.

mcm375

Yeah but you have turbo

mcm375

Added screenshots and comments of my current ECU parameters sans VE and spark which are part of the tuning effort. I have linked to a public facebook album here, since it was easier to deal with the photos and will be easier to update as time goes by.

weaselman

im confused, but very interested. just for the simple fact i like messing around with things that shouldnt be messed around with in some people minds. lol....

is this basically what you did??
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...-22rte-mt.html

or what?
i was under the impression you could use a stock computer somehow. i vaugley remember reading that some where?? i could be wrong tho..

can u pm me? i might forget to check this thread. lol..

thanx!

dem0nk1d

33137! Elite! leet! hardware hacker win! now all we need to do is pay a company in China to do all the hard labor. How much is it a difference to have the mega squirt pre-built ?

weaselman

another 22re link http://diyautotune.com/tech_articles...oyota_22re.htm

jimep

MCM375, Couldn't find the pics ur talking about in that album.

strykersd

Does the kit come with a wideband O2 sensor?

mcm375

You can buy a wideband o2 sensor separately from the same place.

Does this link not work? http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=3cfc63bcbd

Demonkid, some people do offer that service but I think it's usually an extra $200? If you have ever soldered anything before I recommend you do it yourself, you will gain a better understanding about the whole thing.

RTFM.

mcm375

Sorry about the delay have been busy.

Today I installed a GM IAT sensor into the intake manifold. What I had read turned out to be true, that a 1/2" NPT tap can be run through the Cold Start Injector hole, then a 1/2" to 3/8" pipe bushing (adapter) can be used to thread in the sensor.

I ran one lead to the "THA" pin (7th from left) of the VAFM connector (harness side), and another lead to the "E2" pin (3rd from left).

Then I jumpered "Fc" (1st from left) with "Vc" (5th from left), and back in the MegaSquirt board jumpered the A5 adapter pin (this is "Vc") to FUEL PUMP. FUEL PUMP is the contact on the MegaSquirt mainboard that is grounded when the MS ECU needs to run the fuel pump (e.g., Ign On and Cranking or Running). What this in effect does is provide ground through the "Vc" circuit that is now jumpered with "Fc" which is the Fuel Pump relay controlled by the original VAFM. When this is grounded, the fuel pump runs. So w/o making any wiring changes to the original harnesses, now MS controls my fuel pump too! Cool.

Oh and now I can put a fat ass cone filter right on the front of the TB...

mcm375

Also note that running a 1/2" NPT thread through the Cold Start injector hole does not ruin this hole for re-use as a CSI mount point if you wanted to "go back to stock", because the CSI plate seals with a gasket.

Targetnut

I'm running a MSII in my truck and was wondering whether you could share your spark advance settings. I don't really need the whole table just what is your peak advance and at what RPM

I've been playing with mine trying to get the best mileage and right now I've got a peak of 37deg at 3100rpm.

strykersd

Ok, so total we're looking at $600 plus $200-300 for a wideband O2 sensor? I'm just trying to get an idea of how much the whole setup will cost me...