Tacoma Subwoofer Ideas
08-22-2005, 06:38 AM
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Tacoma Subwoofer Ideas
:rockband:
I am going to be adding a new head unit and maybe some speakers - but I also definetly want to add a subwoofer...
seeing as the taco (I have an x-cab) is pretty small inside I figure you probably dont need much punch to add definition to the music. I definetly dont want earth shaking bass, just good punch.
Wondering what people have set up in their tacos and how they like it.
also I would definetly prefer to someone set the subwoofer up so it is out of sight and doesnt take up some of the precious little space in the back..so anyone that has maybe stored a sub under their seat etc, chime in!
I am going to be adding a new head unit and maybe some speakers - but I also definetly want to add a subwoofer...
seeing as the taco (I have an x-cab) is pretty small inside I figure you probably dont need much punch to add definition to the music. I definetly dont want earth shaking bass, just good punch.
Wondering what people have set up in their tacos and how they like it.
also I would definetly prefer to someone set the subwoofer up so it is out of sight and doesnt take up some of the precious little space in the back..so anyone that has maybe stored a sub under their seat etc, chime in!
08-22-2005, 08:40 AM
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If the "BassLink" is'nt an option for you, you might want to check out NisAznMonk's post: Subwoofer option for Xtracab owners further down the board here where he constructed a box in the rear of his ride, under the seat. 
08-22-2005, 09:17 AM
#4
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I say buy a tonneau cover and do a cut through then put in 2 resonant engineering MT 18's and 8 RF T3000s. 24,000 watts RMS on 2 18s should make it punchy enough fer ya! 
08-22-2005, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
I say buy a tonneau cover and do a cut through then put in 2 resonant engineering MT 18's and 8 RF T3000s. 24,000 watts RMS on 2 18s should make it punchy enough fer ya!
That way you'll still have use of a mojority of the bed and the ability to mount some MONSTER sized subs in there that'll gaurantee that you'll smoke any and all competition..., since we're pushing the extreme and all ya know.
08-22-2005, 02:00 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Or..., permanently mount a "truck box" in the bed next to the cab and cut a pass-through into it, with a weatherproof grommet between the cab and the bed to keep out the weather, which you'll have properly sealed and insulated.
That way you'll still have use of a mojority of the bed and the ability to mount some MONSTER sized subs in there that'll gaurantee that you'll smoke any and all competition..., since we're pushing the extreme and all ya know.
That way you'll still have use of a mojority of the bed and the ability to mount some MONSTER sized subs in there that'll gaurantee that you'll smoke any and all competition..., since we're pushing the extreme and all ya know.
But yes, that gets my vote, 2 18s and 24kW and about 24 batteries to support the amps! Oh and a 383 small block swap to keep it moving under the weight. 
08-23-2005, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
Thats what i just said. But yes, that gets my vote, 2 18s and 24kW and about 24 batteries to support the amps! Oh and a 383 small block swap to keep it moving under the weight.
But yes, that gets my vote, 2 18s and 24kW and about 24 batteries to support the amps! Oh and a 383 small block swap to keep it moving under the weight. 
The problem with that would be the loss bed space, not to mention the extensive area that would require insulating whereas with a "box" you'd still have use of the bed and a couple of HP altenators and a series 5 capacitor would be all that would be required to power a pair of 20"
subs with a pair of piezo horns in the dash for the highs, 6.5 speakers in the doors and an 8" pair in the bottom of the back of the cab for the mid's to round it all out for what would be the absolutely loudest SOB in da hood. You'd probally have to invest in some lexan to replace the factory glass with because it all would be history after the first time you turn it up!
Last edited by 94x4; 08-23-2005 at 02:21 PM.
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08-23-2005, 07:09 AM
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Personally, im a Kenwood Headunit fan, i believe they make the one of the best headunits, i also have 2 10' Audiobahn Flame Compression subs, now they pack a punch! i will upload a pic of my headunit and my subs
08-23-2005, 10:16 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Nah ya did'nt..., you said through a "tonneau cover" on it "and do a cut through".
The problem with that would be the loss bed space, not to mention the extensive area that would require insulating whereas with a "box" you'd still have use of the bed and a couple of HP altenators and a series 5 capacitor would be all that would be required to power a pair of 20" subs with a pair of piezo horns in the dash for the highs, 6.5 speakers in the doors and an 8" pair in the bottom of the back of the cab for the mid's to round it all out for what would be the absolutely loudest SOB in da hood.
You'd probally have to invest in some lexan to replace the factory glass with because it all would be history after the first time you turn it up!
The problem with that would be the loss bed space, not to mention the extensive area that would require insulating whereas with a "box" you'd still have use of the bed and a couple of HP altenators and a series 5 capacitor would be all that would be required to power a pair of 20"
subs with a pair of piezo horns in the dash for the highs, 6.5 speakers in the doors and an 8" pair in the bottom of the back of the cab for the mid's to round it all out for what would be the absolutely loudest SOB in da hood. You'd probally have to invest in some lexan to replace the factory glass with because it all would be history after the first time you turn it up!
Time for some clarification - a "cut through" and a "pass through" are exactly the same thing - cutting out a rectangular opening below the window line where you will mount the subs in a box located in the bed. Obviously you use an accordian boot to seal it. You were thinking I said a "walk through" in which the rear glass is removed as well and one must use a TOPPER, (full sized bed cover.) A tonneau cover is a flat cover that sits atop the bed keeping the normal pickup truck profile. Walk throughs are a PITA to set up - a cut through/'pass through' is cake.
hehehe actually competitors dont replace glass with lexan/plexi because glass breaks (It actually wont) but rather to stiffen up the cab and increase the dB readings on the dash.
Only one vehicle I know of in over 5 years of competition on the world stage can break windows and thats the Riley Van....
It used 8 Team RF 15s and 32 BD1500s....All 8 fire at the right front portion of the windsheild from about 48" away and the RMS figure for the amp's power is exactly 48,000 watts. In reality, when they burp, about 80,000 watts is brought to bear courtesy of the 17v electrical system feedin the amps whose voltage protection circuits have been pulled.
On the new TL legal they were doing 167s...in superstreet division (oem in front of the B pillar) this is ungodly. On audiocontrol mics they'd be btwn 172 and 178. And it could only break its window when it was run WIDE OPEN. Anything less and no breakage.[/thread hijack]
08-23-2005, 10:23 AM
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In all seriousness to the poster, fiberglass is your friend! You will likely have to go with 8's which in the correct box WILL surprise EVERYONE who sits in the truck. But custom built is the only way to fly.
But custom built is the only way to fly.
08-23-2005, 06:40 PM
#14
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I dont think it's fair to say that one particular company makes the best. It really depends on the individual model. Nakamichi is a personal favourite of mine because they focus entirely on sound quality rather than cosmetic appearance.
08-25-2005, 05:37 AM
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Click Here for my current cut-through, blow-through, pass-through, etc setup.
Below is the old setup, prior to the toolbox. Three JL Audio 12w7's and three Rockford Fosgate Power BD1000a1's in a ported enclosure tuned to 34hz.
Click here for the thread 94x4 was talking about.
Below is the old setup, prior to the toolbox. Three JL Audio 12w7's and three Rockford Fosgate Power BD1000a1's in a ported enclosure tuned to 34hz.
Click here for the thread 94x4 was talking about.
08-25-2005, 08:34 PM
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A trully remarkable setup there NisAznMonk, talk about "Pimp My Ride", that is the shiznit, yo!
Seriously though, that almost mirrors the setup that I was trying to relay to Bumpin' with the exception of your actually mounting the speakers into the box, whereas I had envisioned them being mounted into the rear of the cab itself (with "ports" if I chose to go that route) and "passed through" into the truck's box to have full usage of the available space (approx. 10-12 cu. ft.) for a bass chamber for creation of as much "boom" as possible.
All in all, props to the installer, that is clean!
Seriously though, that almost mirrors the setup that I was trying to relay to Bumpin' with the exception of your actually mounting the speakers into the box, whereas I had envisioned them being mounted into the rear of the cab itself (with "ports" if I chose to go that route) and "passed through" into the truck's box to have full usage of the available space (approx. 10-12 cu. ft.) for a bass chamber for creation of as much "boom" as possible.
All in all, props to the installer, that is clean!
Last edited by 94x4; 08-25-2005 at 08:39 PM.
08-25-2005, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
A trully remarkable setup there NisAznMonk, talk about "Pimp My Ride", that is the shiznit, yo!
Seriously though, that almost mirrors the setup that I was trying to relay to Bumpin' with the exception of your actually mounting the speakers into the box, whereas I had envisioned them being mounted into the rear of the cab itself (with "ports" if I chose to go that route) and "passed through" into the truck's box to have full usage of the available space (approx. 10-12 cu. ft.) for a bass chamber for creation of as much "boom" as possible.
All in all, props to the installer, that is clean!
Seriously though, that almost mirrors the setup that I was trying to relay to Bumpin' with the exception of your actually mounting the speakers into the box, whereas I had envisioned them being mounted into the rear of the cab itself (with "ports" if I chose to go that route) and "passed through" into the truck's box to have full usage of the available space (approx. 10-12 cu. ft.) for a bass chamber for creation of as much "boom" as possible.
All in all, props to the installer, that is clean!
Mounting to the rear of the cab would be impossible I would think. As you probably already know, the bed and cabin does twist and move quite a bit. Building a box that would flex with the bed and cabin would be 99% impossible. I had to leave the 1% because some science genius would probably figure out a way
IF you were thinking about using the bed and bed cover as a free air setup, I would assume that you would have to fiberglass the bedcover permanetly to properly seal it off. But then agian Snug top and A.R.E. are watertight, so who knows
08-26-2005, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by NisAznMonk
Thanks!
Mounting to the rear of the cab would be impossible I would think. As you probably already know, the bed and cabin does twist and move quite a bit. Building a box that would flex with the bed and cabin would be 99% impossible. I had to leave the 1% because some science genius would probably figure out a way
Mounting to the rear of the cab would be impossible I would think. As you probably already know, the bed and cabin does twist and move quite a bit. Building a box that would flex with the bed and cabin would be 99% impossible. I had to leave the 1% because some science genius would probably figure out a way
O'kay, "science genius" here, but I'll answer to "genius"
and I'll take that "1%" and raise you 99% more with the use of an "accordian" gasket that can be used to create a water tight seal between the rear of the cab and the face of the bed and/or box mounted therein, thereby creating a "passthrough" directly into the box itself, which is what I would use instead of the tonneau cover for practicality purposes, plus it would help in maintaining overall structural integrity of the trucks' cab as you would need to cut only the holes required to accomodate the subs.
Last edited by 94x4; 08-29-2005 at 07:34 AM.
08-28-2005, 04:08 AM
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Allright, thanks for the replies guys 
...I kind of like the basslink; seems pretty easy and is the size I am looking for....now I know these things go for around $300 or so on crutchfield so how is ebay selling them for $170????????
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Infinity-Bas...QQcmdZViewItem
is this legit or prob a scam?
...I kind of like the basslink; seems pretty easy and is the size I am looking for....now I know these things go for around $300 or so on crutchfield so how is ebay selling them for $170???????? http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Infinity-Bas...QQcmdZViewItem
is this legit or prob a scam?
