QLogic Enclosure - rattles free installation?

idodgimus · 08-05-2008, 02:25 PM

Hi there,

I know there's been lots of posts about the custom Q-Logic Enclosure and many people claim it rattles and others that they've installed it in such a way that it sounds great...

Well, I've a chance to purchase a 2nd hand enclosure for a decent price (not cheap, but not extortionate) and was really hoping to get a central place for installation advice on how to do it 'rattle free' - what to attach it with, what to dynomat, where might need foam etc etc

oh, and if anyone's getting rid of an enclosure for a 3rd Gen 4Runner ('99) lemme know

thanks guys, this forum's great!

D!

Djlarroc · 08-14-2008, 08:15 PM

*subscribing*

Looking at one of these maself...

idodgimus · 08-15-2008, 11:05 AM

Any advice folks? I'm not looking for audiophile grade sound, just a decent and somewhat stealth thump ?

The time I have to buy this (its about $100) is getting short, he might just sell it on if I dont get back to him soon...

Djlarroc · 08-15-2008, 11:46 AM

Just buy it. If you can't get it rattle free, I'm sure someone else will be willing to try it. What sub are you going to use w/it?

kramykram · 08-15-2008, 12:06 PM

Yea, I agree. If you can afford the bill get it and try to make it work. Worst case you lose 10 or 20 bucks re-welling it. Best case it works!!!!

idodgimus · 08-15-2008, 12:06 PM

thats a fair point!!!

I've a rockford-fosgate P2 10", its currently sitting in the sealed enclosure that was sitting in my old POS car. I'll be using this budget amp to drive it:
http://www.sasbazooka.com/products/m...amplifier-P319

it's uber budget, but it was more than enough for the sub in my old car - its got the bonus of being small so its easy to hide (i'm thinking somewhere between the paneling and the frame)

Djlarroc · 08-15-2008, 12:17 PM

Yeah, that's a good spot. If it's really light you could probably use a lot of velcro (or industrial velcro) to hold it on.

olharleyman · 08-15-2008, 03:36 PM

You may want to conceder that your old car had a lot less airspace to move and bump that amp up to something with a lot more power to get the same sound you got from the car

Djlarroc · 08-15-2008, 06:43 PM

I think the opposite. I think you need less power to make a sub sound good in an SUV. I think it should sound even better now.

drpdmazda · 08-16-2008, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djlarroc

I think the opposite. I think you need less power to make a sub sound good in an SUV. I think it should sound even better now.

care to explain that thought??

Djlarroc · 08-16-2008, 06:37 PM

In a regular sedan/trunk install, you need more power to make more bass to sound better in the cabin.

In an SUV/Hatchback, you're already sharing the same cabin, so you don't need more power to sound the same.

I had a box w/2 10s in my BMW 5 series. That box sounded like chat. When I put that same box in my 1st gen Runner with the same power. BIG DIFFERENCE.

drpdmazda · 08-16-2008, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djlarroc

In a regular sedan/trunk install, you need more power to make more bass to sound better in the cabin.

In an SUV/Hatchback, you're already sharing the same cabin, so you don't need more power to sound the same.

I had a box w/2 10s in my BMW 5 series. That box sounded like chat. When I put that same box in my 1st gen Runner with the same power. BIG DIFFERENCE.

alot of bmw's had or have the battery in the trunk, therefore they have technically a " fire wall " in the rear behind the seats. so yes you will definately notice a difference when going from that tight sealed trunk to an open air cabin of an suv, but that doesnt mean you need less power the sub still requires a minimal amount of power for it to perform properly. if anything you would want to keep the power the same as what you had it to make the sub perform at its best. im not trying to be arrogant or argue with you so please dont take it that way just wanted to make sure it makes sense, especially since this thread is aimed towards a person looking for help in there audio setup.

just my two pennies

jason

2000t4rAKS · 08-17-2008, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djlarroc

In a regular sedan/trunk install, you need more power to make more bass to sound better in the cabin.

In an SUV/Hatchback, you're already sharing the same cabin, so you don't need more power to sound the same.

I had a box w/2 10s in my BMW 5 series. That box sounded like chat. When I put that same box in my 1st gen Runner with the same power. BIG DIFFERENCE.

I am going to have to agree. My buddy works at an alarm and sound shop and he said that my Runner would need less power because it has tons of air space compared to a sedan. Also, the earlier post has a good point about the whole "fire wall." There is a physical barrier between the sub and the cabin. Never bothered to ask him about the science behind more air space = better sound but it just seemed to make sense to me. The whole point is to move as much as AIR as possible, right??? I was really thinking about getting the Infinity BassLink but also considering the Q-Logic because then it could be stealthy. I did not want to put in another amp just for the sub, hence going with the Infinity BassLink but then if a small is necessary then I can put it under the passeneger seat and mount the sub in that little compartment in the rear of the cargo area. From my research here and over at T4R, people with the Q-Logic setup complain alot about the rattle from the Q-Logic. I am thinking that it is partly due to not enough insulation, but I could be wrong. I was thinking of using Dynamat to insulate that whole area and then putting the Q-Logic in. Anybody else have any input???

drpdmazda · 08-17-2008, 05:43 PM

im not disputing that it will sound better in the open area of an suv, i am simply saying that it is kind of pointless to need or want less power just due to the fact of more available air space. having a larger air space means that the sub will technically need to work harder to push that larger area of air more efficently in turn saying you still need at least the same amount of power, if not possibly more. make sense?.....

Djlarroc · 08-17-2008, 07:12 PM

What I'm saying is if he kept the same amp, it would sound better because the bass will echo in an SUV. The sub will "push" the same amount of air in a trunk or SUV. But it's the echo sound you get in a hatchback or SUV, that amplifies the low frequency's sound.

Another good example is if you have a sub box in the trunk where the back seats fold down, play it with the seats up and down. Most likely it will sound better w/the seats down because you're sharing the same cabin, like an SUV.

drpdmazda · 08-17-2008, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djlarroc

What I'm saying is if he kept the same amp, it would sound better because the bass will echo in an SUV. The sub will "push" the same amount of air in a trunk or SUV. But it's the echo sound you get in a hatchback or SUV, that amplifies the low frequency's sound.

Another good example is if you have a sub box in the trunk where the back seats fold down, play it with the seats up and down. Most likely it will sound better w/the seats down because you're sharing the same cabin, like an SUV.

i'm following you and agreeing with you. as stated i just dont want the op to think they can step down the power to the sub.

idodgimus · 08-18-2008, 10:44 AM

interesting chat fellas, but i definitely wont be swapping out my amp for another one (less or more powerful) for some time yet - i'm just looking for decent helping of bass preferably in a stealthy fashion...

2000t4rAKS - i've read a couple of threads where people have managed to get decent sound by using dynamat and/or sealing the area. I just havent found any more details that cover the where/what/how of their installation...

2000t4rAKS · 08-18-2008, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idodgimus

interesting chat fellas, but i definitely wont be swapping out my amp for another one (less or more powerful) for some time yet - i'm just looking for decent helping of bass preferably in a stealthy fashion...

2000t4rAKS - i've read a couple of threads where people have managed to get decent sound by using dynamat and/or sealing the area. I just havent found any more details that cover the where/what/how of their installation...

I have also read about people going the Dynamat route but then again not much information out there. I was thinking of using that spray foam stuff to REALLY insulate that area. Also, while everyone complains about the rattle, they do not elaborate on the issue.

idodgimus · 08-18-2008, 02:27 PM

yup, was hoping that this thread would be a place that those folk could elaborate/hashout their ideas and solutions... guess i'll just have to give it a shot and post my findings - could be messy, i dont know jack about this kinda thing!!!

without seeing one in person i'm thinking that their might be a sealing issue between the box and the interior but maybe silicone would help that? other than that, maybe there's the cord/clip in the storage pocket and maybe some things in between the interior paneling and the frame...

my chance to buy this one cheap is running out, so i figure i'll just bite the bullet and see what i can do - hopefully some advice/ideas will come in before i screw up my interior, hahaa

drpdmazda · 08-18-2008, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idodgimus

yup, was hoping that this thread would be a place that those folk could elaborate/hashout their ideas and solutions... guess i'll just have to give it a shot and post my findings - could be messy, i dont know jack about this kinda thing!!!

without seeing one in person i'm thinking that their might be a sealing issue between the box and the interior but maybe silicone would help that? other than that, maybe there's the cord/clip in the storage pocket and maybe some things in between the interior paneling and the frame...

my chance to buy this one cheap is running out, so i figure i'll just bite the bullet and see what i can do - hopefully some advice/ideas will come in before i screw up my interior, hahaa

dynamat is pretty easy to work with, just be careful because the edges are sharp.

08-05-2008, 02:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
idodgimus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: vancouver, bc Posts: 40	QLogic Enclosure - rattles free installation? Hi there, I know there's been lots of posts about the custom Q-Logic Enclosure and many people claim it rattles and others that they've installed it in such a way that it sounds great... Well, I've a chance to purchase a 2nd hand enclosure for a decent price (not cheap, but not extortionate) and was really hoping to get a central place for installation advice on how to do it 'rattle free' - what to attach it with, what to dynomat, where might need foam etc etc oh, and if anyone's getting rid of an enclosure for a 3rd Gen 4Runner ('99) lemme know thanks guys, this forum's great! D!

08-14-2008, 08:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	subscribing Looking at one of these maself... __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R

08-15-2008, 11:46 AM	#4 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	Just buy it. If you can't get it rattle free, I'm sure someone else will be willing to try it. What sub are you going to use w/it? __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R

08-15-2008, 12:17 PM	#7 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	Yeah, that's a good spot. If it's really light you could probably use a lot of velcro (or industrial velcro) to hold it on. __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R

08-15-2008, 03:36 PM	#8 (permalink)
olharleyman Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: maryland Posts: 1,838	You may want to conceder that your old car had a lot less airspace to move and bump that amp up to something with a lot more power to get the same sound you got from the car __________________ 1990 4 runner 5 Speed Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear Aussie Locker front 5.29's Front And Rear 35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels Super Charged 3.4 on the way 1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed 4" front 5"rear 5.29's 35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S Dick cepek DC 1's 1955 Harley Davidson Springer Stock 1955 Hardtail Frame 4 Speed Kick Start Only Streached 5.5 gal. tanks 16" Ape Hangers 3" open primary 1998 Harley Custom Dresser 107 rwhp 139 ft.lbs.trq.

08-15-2008, 11:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
idodgimus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: vancouver, bc Posts: 40	Any advice folks? I'm not looking for audiophile grade sound, just a decent and somewhat stealth thump ? The time I have to buy this (its about $100) is getting short, he might just sell it on if I dont get back to him soon...

08-15-2008, 12:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
idodgimus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: vancouver, bc Posts: 40	thats a fair point!!! I've a rockford-fosgate P2 10", its currently sitting in the sealed enclosure that was sitting in my old POS car. I'll be using this budget amp to drive it: http://www.sasbazooka.com/products/m...amplifier-P319 it's uber budget, but it was more than enough for the sub in my old car - its got the bonus of being small so its easy to hide (i'm thinking somewhere between the paneling and the frame)

08-15-2008, 06:43 PM	#9 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	I think the opposite. I think you need less power to make a sub sound good in an SUV. I think it should sound even better now. __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R

08-16-2008, 06:37 PM	#11 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	In a regular sedan/trunk install, you need more power to make more bass to sound better in the cabin. In an SUV/Hatchback, you're already sharing the same cabin, so you don't need more power to sound the same. I had a box w/2 10s in my BMW 5 series. That box sounded like chat. When I put that same box in my 1st gen Runner with the same power. BIG DIFFERENCE. __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R

08-17-2008, 05:43 PM	#14 (permalink)
drpdmazda Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 219	im not disputing that it will sound better in the open area of an suv, i am simply saying that it is kind of pointless to need or want less power just due to the fact of more available air space. having a larger air space means that the sub will technically need to work harder to push that larger area of air more efficently in turn saying you still need at least the same amount of power, if not possibly more. make sense?.....

08-17-2008, 07:12 PM	#15 (permalink)
Djlarroc Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,324	What I'm saying is if he kept the same amp, it would sound better because the bass will echo in an SUV. The sub will "push" the same amount of air in a trunk or SUV. But it's the echo sound you get in a hatchback or SUV, that amplifies the low frequency's sound. Another good example is if you have a sub box in the trunk where the back seats fold down, play it with the seats up and down. Most likely it will sound better w/the seats down because you're sharing the same cabin, like an SUV. __________________ '89 4Runner: 22RE 5spd, 4:10s w/202K, 16x8 w/265-75 MT, Diamond headlights, Aisin hubs, Tortis' custom roll on paint job, Home made bikini, 1" Body Lift, 1.25" greasable lift shackles, TG Sliders, 1.5" BJ spacers, Rust is gone! - SOLD! '00 4Runner: Locked F/R Last edited by Djlarroc : 08-17-2008 at 07:15 PM.

08-18-2008, 10:44 AM	#17 (permalink)
idodgimus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: vancouver, bc Posts: 40	interesting chat fellas, but i definitely wont be swapping out my amp for another one (less or more powerful) for some time yet - i'm just looking for decent helping of bass preferably in a stealthy fashion... 2000t4rAKS - i've read a couple of threads where people have managed to get decent sound by using dynamat and/or sealing the area. I just havent found any more details that cover the where/what/how of their installation...

08-18-2008, 02:27 PM	#19 (permalink)
idodgimus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: vancouver, bc Posts: 40	yup, was hoping that this thread would be a place that those folk could elaborate/hashout their ideas and solutions... guess i'll just have to give it a shot and post my findings - could be messy, i dont know jack about this kinda thing!!! without seeing one in person i'm thinking that their might be a sealing issue between the box and the interior but maybe silicone would help that? other than that, maybe there's the cord/clip in the storage pocket and maybe some things in between the interior paneling and the frame... my chance to buy this one cheap is running out, so i figure i'll just bite the bullet and see what i can do - hopefully some advice/ideas will come in before i screw up my interior, hahaa