Adding an amp and sub ideas.

mhill2079 · 07-26-2008, 09:45 AM

I have a 98 4runner. I am wanting to add an 8, 10 or 12 inch sub (whichever I can fit in) and an amp to my factory setup. I want it to be out of the way as possible because i need as much room in the back as there is right now between the wheel wells. The custom boxes that fit around the wells are to expensive. I figured I could get an amp small enough to fit under the passenger seat but not sure where to put the sub. Anyone have any good ideas?

Elton · 07-26-2008, 10:19 AM

Infinity BassLink ?

JasonWin · 07-26-2008, 10:38 AM

You could always just build a custom box if buying is to expensive.

X-AWDriver · 07-26-2008, 12:19 PM

I have a Bazooka 250w amp under my passenger seat and a 10" MTX sub in the back and it's an easy out,easy back in proposition when I need the extra room. I listen to hard rock generally and this combo has plenty of punch and enough to annoy people next to you in traffic but won't rattle your truck apart.

RobD · 07-26-2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elton

Infinity BassLink ?

I'm running one of these and love it. I got it for $90 off eBay. It has decent power, it's self-contained, will run off your speaker outputs or line-level out puts, and takes very little to wire up. The only downside is that it doesn't put out quite as much bass as a proper sub enclosure, but it doesn't take up nearly the same space, either.

mhill2079 · 07-26-2008, 03:37 PM

I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?

4Crawler · 07-26-2008, 05:03 PM

I put one of these in my DD a while back. It is working very well and was a snap to install. Is has an auto power on/off so all you need to di is hook up power and ground plus the line or low lever inputs:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...HB200A&g=51000

taikowaza · 07-26-2008, 05:27 PM

I just got the Alpine PLT-5. It's not installed yet but I will post pics when it is. It's an array of subs that hardly takes up any space but has a lot of bass. It's got the amp built-in and fits behind the seat. The reviews are really good, the unit itself is amazing, top quality and looks, I look forward to installing it. It is on sale at Crutchfield for $300 off list, read the reviews here

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/500/h500PLT5-o.jpeg

RobD · 07-26-2008, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhill2079

I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA

You can see the dimensions there, plus download the install manual. You would use the speaker level wires at your rear speakers to provide it sound (if using your factory head unit) or install a new head unit that has line level outputs and run wires to the back of your truck (best bet for sound quality).

kipres · 07-26-2008, 09:41 PM

google- mtx thunderform

olharleyman · 07-26-2008, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhill2079

I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?

If you know anything about building with wood you can build a set of boxes or if you want I have a set of boxes that i could sell you for cheap that are built to hold 1 10" each at .75 cubic feet of air each they just need covering , or I have a box for 2 10's again with .75 cu.ft. air space that is covered and both are made of 3/4 mdf and fully sealed air tight and if you want I can still port the dual box for more bass and I will do that for you free if you want .

All you have to do is pay shipping and a fair price and there yours. I went a different direction with building mine so I have these two sitting around doing nothing but collecting dust. Say $75 plus shipping for either of them and shipping to your door.

Pm me if interested and I will send you pics if you would like.

mhill2079 · 07-28-2008, 08:55 AM

thanks for your input. I'm thinking about the Blaupunkt. It seems to get really good reviews. Does anyone know if it will fit under a passenger seat in a 98 4runner. I haven't measured yet but i think it would be close. the seats are pretty low. It wouldn't cause an overheating problem if there wasn't much room above the thing would it? it would still have air from the front and back. If anyone knows how is it comparable to the basslink? it probably doesn't have quite the same bass but if it fits under the seat then if it is comparable it would be worth it.

dirtyXplorer · 07-28-2008, 11:18 AM

It sounds like you don't build much but check this out:

http://www.yotatech.com/f96/2nd-gen-...-ideas-127145/

I did it in my living room in my apartment for like $50 total, Mine is a 2nd gen 4runner but you could probably figure something out for yours.

wjwerdna · 07-28-2008, 11:36 AM

I have an amp mounted under my Driverside seat, connected to a (removable) sub box in the cargo area. Then everything is run to the amp under the seat, with only the speaker wires going to the sub, so removal requires only un-ratchetstrapping the sub, disconnecting speaker wires, and switching off remote power to amp.

Your remote wire comes from radio, or from any other switched power (ACC circuit, radio, wipers, ignition, etc) and can have a separate switch inline to be able to independently turn off the amp. Your input will come from either RCA's (new headunit), line-level (from wires behind stock radio going to (rear) speakers), or a line-level to RCA converter (installed behind radio, off of wires).

To remove your radio to get to the wires, pop off the trim around it, disconnect wire harnesses to clock/climate/etc, set to side. Remove 4(?) screws and radio slides out, there you will be able to get to the wires, carefully strip the wires you need (don't cut, just strip off a little insulation to get to metal), solder or just twist, and cover with tape.

see installdr.com for help, i'm pretty sure they are right.... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

mhill2079 · 07-28-2008, 12:59 PM

ok i think I may go with this setup. if anyone has any better ideas let me know and i'm not sure if this amp will power this sub or not. But i want to put the amp under the passenger seat to save on room then put the sub behind my seat for easy in and out.

Amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...9AP700M&tp=115

Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P210D2&tp=111

Box: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...T6510SS&tp=554

if i under stand correctly a mono amp is what i would want to just one sub. And a 2 ohm sub is better than a 4 ohm sub. but this amp only has 350 watts when the sub is 500. but they don't have many 500 watt amps that are mono. will it make a big difference?

4Crawler · 07-28-2008, 01:02 PM

Generally better if the speakers are rated for at least as much power as the amp can put out, so that would be fine, 350 < 500.

wjwerdna · 07-28-2008, 05:31 PM

your sub is dual 2ohm, which means it can be wired either 1 ohm or 4 ohm

1 if you put both coils in parallel (black1 to black2 to neg amp, red1 to red2 to pos amp)
4 if you wire in series (neg amp to black1, red1 to black2, red2 to pos amp)

with 1 ohm and 4 ohm, you will still have an RMS of 250, max of 500

your amp is 220 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms or 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

so I would wire your sub at 4 ohms, to match the subs 250 RMS with amps 220 RMS, and tune gain on amp to about 70-75%

OR you could find a 2-channel "high current" amp that was rated for around 250x1 @ 4 ohms bridged or 250x1 @ 1 ohm bridged (though @ 4ohm would be easier) the amp instruction manual will explain how to wire it.

A 2 ohm sub is not better than 4 ohm, or vice-versa, nor is dual voice-coil versus single voice-coil, it all depends on how you want to wire a combination of sub(s) and amp

OR you could get a DUAL 4 ohm Voice coil and wire it for 2 ohm (4+4 in parallel), and find a mono amp that was rated for same RMS @ 2 ohm as sub

It can get confusing when you are new at it, sorry if I threw out too much crap at once :/

I learned a TON from http://www.the12volt.com/Default.asp? along with a lot of experience, along with a little from here http://www.bcae1.com/

mhill2079 · 07-28-2008, 05:39 PM

ok after talking to someone at crutchfield they said I should use this amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P250P2&tp=115

because it meets the sub perfectly. but since I have a factory cd player i would need this also to wire it into the system

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...slc4&i=142SLC4

it is a Four-channel line output converter. now the amp comes with a wired Punch Bass EQ remote but they said I couldn't use that unless i hooked up the amp through rca's and my factory cd player wouldn't have them. so if I want to turn up or down the bass i would just have to do all the speaker at once through my cd player. but even If i can't use the remote wouldn't there be another way of doing the volume only for the sub?

wjwerdna · 07-28-2008, 05:49 PM

that is a good match, better than the Profile (IMO), and a good deal I too I think... technically for the other thing, you only need a 2-channel one, not 4-channel one, but yeah, since the amp does not have "line-level" inputs, you need to convert your "lines" (wires to speakers) to RCA's using that box

as said before, you just need to take out radio, splice box into rear left/right speaker wires (not necessary to connect front left/right unless you plan on adding 4-channel amp to door speakers later), then run RCA cable from box to amp RCA input, this RCA can probably just run right under your center console to under the DS seat if you mount amp there, then run power/ground/remote by driverside door, make sure you mount the amp so that you can get to the gain/freq controls under the seat. I have mine mounted so that I can get to the fuse/power connections if I slide the seat forward.

actually looking at amp, all the stuff is on one side it looks like so no prob there...

as far as the remote, it seems like it would still work, don't know why

07-26-2008, 09:45 AM	#1 (permalink)
mhill2079 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 22	Adding an amp and sub ideas. I have a 98 4runner. I am wanting to add an 8, 10 or 12 inch sub (whichever I can fit in) and an amp to my factory setup. I want it to be out of the way as possible because i need as much room in the back as there is right now between the wheel wells. The custom boxes that fit around the wells are to expensive. I figured I could get an amp small enough to fit under the passenger seat but not sure where to put the sub. Anyone have any good ideas?

07-26-2008, 10:19 AM	#2 (permalink)
Elton Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Toledo,Oregon Posts: 9,143	Infinity BassLink ? __________________ My Truck 98 4runner SR5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 E-Locker Mods Mom 07 Tundra d-cab limited 5.7L 4x4 auto mom 92 pickup SR5 X-cab 3.0L 5spd 4x4 Papa 89 Pickup SR5 X-cab 4x4 3.0L 5spd/98 4runner SR5 4x4 auto 3.4L R.I.P 91 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0L 5spd Totaled 5/13/06 My Wreck

07-26-2008, 12:19 PM	#4 (permalink)
X-AWDriver Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Littleton,CO Posts: 9,545	I have a Bazooka 250w amp under my passenger seat and a 10" MTX sub in the back and it's an easy out,easy back in proposition when I need the extra room. I listen to hard rock generally and this combo has plenty of punch and enough to annoy people next to you in traffic but won't rattle your truck apart. __________________ '99 4Runner Highlander 4wd E-locker,rear diff and deckplate mod * 265/75/16 Nitto TerraGrapplers * Yakima Load Warrior rack * clear corners/signals * Tacoma skidplate * Silverstar lamps/fogs Alpine CDA-9831,Bazooka EL Series 250w amp,MTX 10" sub

07-26-2008, 05:03 PM	#7 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 6,291	I put one of these in my DD a while back. It is working very well and was a snap to install. Is has an auto power on/off so all you need to di is hook up power and ground plus the line or low lever inputs: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...HB200A&g=51000 __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

07-26-2008, 05:27 PM	#8 (permalink)
taikowaza Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 632	I just got the Alpine PLT-5. It's not installed yet but I will post pics when it is. It's an array of subs that hardly takes up any space but has a lot of bass. It's got the amp built-in and fits behind the seat. The reviews are really good, the unit itself is amazing, top quality and looks, I look forward to installing it. It is on sale at Crutchfield for $300 off list, read the reviews here http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/500/h500PLT5-o.jpeg __________________ 92 4runner,Thorley Ceramic Headers,Stan's Custom Exhaust,OME Suspension,DowneyHDCoils,MarlinHD Clutch,PIAA520s,24/30"Magnaflow Muf/Cat,Warn Hubs,BudBuilt IFS Skid+Xmbr,Sonoran Truss,Odyssey Batt,33x10.5 BFG A/T,ISR Mod,Boyle's Alternator,TJM T-15,Demello Sliders,Warn XD9000,Dual 4.88 Truetracs,LCE bored TB,Weasy Cams,NWMP Xtnd Range Tank

07-26-2008, 03:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
mhill2079 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 22	I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?

07-26-2008, 09:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
kipres Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: yucaipa,ca Posts: 54	google- mtx thunderform

07-28-2008, 08:55 AM	#12 (permalink)
mhill2079 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 22	thanks for your input. I'm thinking about the Blaupunkt. It seems to get really good reviews. Does anyone know if it will fit under a passenger seat in a 98 4runner. I haven't measured yet but i think it would be close. the seats are pretty low. It wouldn't cause an overheating problem if there wasn't much room above the thing would it? it would still have air from the front and back. If anyone knows how is it comparable to the basslink? it probably doesn't have quite the same bass but if it fits under the seat then if it is comparable it would be worth it.

07-28-2008, 11:18 AM	#13 (permalink)
dirtyXplorer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mile High Posts: 216	It sounds like you don't build much but check this out: http://www.yotatech.com/f96/2nd-gen-...-ideas-127145/ I did it in my living room in my apartment for like $50 total, Mine is a 2nd gen 4runner but you could probably figure something out for yours. __________________ 93 4runner SR5, V6 3.0 Auto, Pro Comp ES9000s, 14" Magnaflow, Aisin manual hubs 93 Ford Explorer, lifted, 35"s

07-28-2008, 11:36 AM	#14 (permalink)
wjwerdna Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Montague, MI Posts: 1,856	I have an amp mounted under my Driverside seat, connected to a (removable) sub box in the cargo area. Then everything is run to the amp under the seat, with only the speaker wires going to the sub, so removal requires only un-ratchetstrapping the sub, disconnecting speaker wires, and switching off remote power to amp. Your remote wire comes from radio, or from any other switched power (ACC circuit, radio, wipers, ignition, etc) and can have a separate switch inline to be able to independently turn off the amp. Your input will come from either RCA's (new headunit), line-level (from wires behind stock radio going to (rear) speakers), or a line-level to RCA converter (installed behind radio, off of wires). To remove your radio to get to the wires, pop off the trim around it, disconnect wire harnesses to clock/climate/etc, set to side. Remove 4(?) screws and radio slides out, there you will be able to get to the wires, carefully strip the wires you need (don't cut, just strip off a little insulation to get to metal), solder or just twist, and cover with tape. see installdr.com for help, i'm pretty sure they are right.... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf __________________ Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: "six-spoke" stock alloys, PM if interested :) ... also, stock running boards, pm offer, and stock panhard bar, great for mod'ing longer for lift adjustment

07-28-2008, 12:59 PM	#15 (permalink)
mhill2079 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 22	ok i think I may go with this setup. if anyone has any better ideas let me know and i'm not sure if this amp will power this sub or not. But i want to put the amp under the passenger seat to save on room then put the sub behind my seat for easy in and out. Amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...9AP700M&tp=115 Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P210D2&tp=111 Box: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...T6510SS&tp=554 if i under stand correctly a mono amp is what i would want to just one sub. And a 2 ohm sub is better than a 4 ohm sub. but this amp only has 350 watts when the sub is 500. but they don't have many 500 watt amps that are mono. will it make a big difference?

07-28-2008, 01:02 PM	#16 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 6,291	Generally better if the speakers are rated for at least as much power as the amp can put out, so that would be fine, 350 < 500. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

07-28-2008, 05:31 PM	#17 (permalink)
wjwerdna Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Montague, MI Posts: 1,856	your sub is dual 2ohm, which means it can be wired either 1 ohm or 4 ohm 1 if you put both coils in parallel (black1 to black2 to neg amp, red1 to red2 to pos amp) 4 if you wire in series (neg amp to black1, red1 to black2, red2 to pos amp) with 1 ohm and 4 ohm, you will still have an RMS of 250, max of 500 your amp is 220 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms or 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms so I would wire your sub at 4 ohms, to match the subs 250 RMS with amps 220 RMS, and tune gain on amp to about 70-75% OR you could find a 2-channel "high current" amp that was rated for around 250x1 @ 4 ohms bridged or 250x1 @ 1 ohm bridged (though @ 4ohm would be easier) the amp instruction manual will explain how to wire it. A 2 ohm sub is not better than 4 ohm, or vice-versa, nor is dual voice-coil versus single voice-coil, it all depends on how you want to wire a combination of sub(s) and amp OR you could get a DUAL 4 ohm Voice coil and wire it for 2 ohm (4+4 in parallel), and find a mono amp that was rated for same RMS @ 2 ohm as sub It can get confusing when you are new at it, sorry if I threw out too much crap at once :/ I learned a TON from http://www.the12volt.com/Default.asp? along with a lot of experience, along with a little from here http://www.bcae1.com/ __________________ Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: "six-spoke" stock alloys, PM if interested :) ... also, stock running boards, pm offer, and stock panhard bar, great for mod'ing longer for lift adjustment

07-28-2008, 05:39 PM	#18 (permalink)
mhill2079 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 22	ok after talking to someone at crutchfield they said I should use this amp http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P250P2&tp=115 because it meets the sub perfectly. but since I have a factory cd player i would need this also to wire it into the system http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...slc4&i=142SLC4 it is a Four-channel line output converter. now the amp comes with a wired Punch Bass EQ remote but they said I couldn't use that unless i hooked up the amp through rca's and my factory cd player wouldn't have them. so if I want to turn up or down the bass i would just have to do all the speaker at once through my cd player. but even If i can't use the remote wouldn't there be another way of doing the volume only for the sub?

07-28-2008, 05:49 PM	#19 (permalink)
wjwerdna Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Montague, MI Posts: 1,856	that is a good match, better than the Profile (IMO), and a good deal I too I think... technically for the other thing, you only need a 2-channel one, not 4-channel one, but yeah, since the amp does not have "line-level" inputs, you need to convert your "lines" (wires to speakers) to RCA's using that box as said before, you just need to take out radio, splice box into rear left/right speaker wires (not necessary to connect front left/right unless you plan on adding 4-channel amp to door speakers later), then run RCA cable from box to amp RCA input, this RCA can probably just run right under your center console to under the DS seat if you mount amp there, then run power/ground/remote by driverside door, make sure you mount the amp so that you can get to the gain/freq controls under the seat. I have mine mounted so that I can get to the fuse/power connections if I slide the seat forward. actually looking at amp, all the stuff is on one side it looks like so no prob there... as far as the remote, it seems like it would still work, don't know why __________________ Andrew J W = WJwerdnA '99 4Runner SR5 - Pioneer MP3/IPod w/Infinity all around - lifted 2.5-3in susp. - 33's to fill the gap - sliders - ISR & Deckplate, yada yada - Satoshi - AIM:wjwerdna YotaTech Profile Custom Bumper Link for sale: "six-spoke" stock alloys, PM if interested :) ... also, stock running boards, pm offer, and stock panhard bar, great for mod'ing longer for lift adjustment