1st gen 4runner custom rear seat 6.75" speaker install
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1st gen 4runner custom rear seat 6.75" speaker install
It turned out like this:
I have been happy with it and because it evolved though lots of looking at the collective knowledge here prior to the install I figured what I did might help someone else figure out what they want to do. So here is a rundown of how I got there.
I ended up doing what I did because:
-I wanted it to sound good, at 70mph with the windows down
-I wanted the rear roll bar space for a sub (eventually)
-I didn't want to lose sound quality by having my rear pair behind the back seat
-I wanted to be able to switch back to the stock parts if I didn't like it, no no chopping or major modifications to OEM stuff
-It had to be a reasonable total cost, (I would rather have $800 in my dif than my stereo)
As I mentioned, I did want it to sound good so I started with a pair of Pioneer TS-D1702R which reviewed particularly well but still fit the budget
Then it was time to enlist some help to figure out the best spot for them after pulling out a bunch of stuff.
The old thin fiber board wouldn't be strong enough to hang the fairly heavy speakers without LOTS of rattling so I grabbed a few scraps of commercial grade 1/4" underlayment and went to work with a drill and jig saw
Lots of repeated measuring and test fitting ended up with this
A quick stop at the local specialty fastener store in town on the way home from work netted some stuff like this:
The speaker mount screws hit the metal frame so they got trimmed back a bit
Then put the seats back in to be sure they will still fold with the new speaker location before getting too carried away
Then run some wire
On the drivers side the wiring harness makes it a bit too tight so a little persuasion (of the variety involving a hammer) made just enough room.
Since you can see it in the shot above we may was well mention spending some time with some Peel and Seal to cut down on road noise and vibration
Then get the other side put in and try it out for a week or two which led to the the discovery that the rubber well nuts (used where the threaded clips wouldn't fit) popped loose after a brisk run down a wash-boarded gravel road.
So it quick stop by MD Metrics led to having one of these in the tool box
I'm not sure how I lived with out it for so long. Rivet nuts and a setter are a very cool little tool that lets you put a stout threaded insert into a blind sheet metal location. If you want one go here http://mdmetric.com/prod/rivetnuttool/rivetnuttool.htm
Now with the much stronger hangers it is time to try to get some upholstery on without too much "helper" hair in the glue.
The keen observer will also note that at this point it was time for refreshments as well.
Put the panels in with all the trim
Then fight the seats back in and it's done
If you have specific questions let me know and I'll see what other details I can remember.
I have been happy with it and because it evolved though lots of looking at the collective knowledge here prior to the install I figured what I did might help someone else figure out what they want to do. So here is a rundown of how I got there.
I ended up doing what I did because:
-I wanted it to sound good, at 70mph with the windows down
-I wanted the rear roll bar space for a sub (eventually)
-I didn't want to lose sound quality by having my rear pair behind the back seat
-I wanted to be able to switch back to the stock parts if I didn't like it, no no chopping or major modifications to OEM stuff
-It had to be a reasonable total cost, (I would rather have $800 in my dif than my stereo)
As I mentioned, I did want it to sound good so I started with a pair of Pioneer TS-D1702R which reviewed particularly well but still fit the budget
Then it was time to enlist some help to figure out the best spot for them after pulling out a bunch of stuff.
The old thin fiber board wouldn't be strong enough to hang the fairly heavy speakers without LOTS of rattling so I grabbed a few scraps of commercial grade 1/4" underlayment and went to work with a drill and jig saw
Lots of repeated measuring and test fitting ended up with this
A quick stop at the local specialty fastener store in town on the way home from work netted some stuff like this:
The speaker mount screws hit the metal frame so they got trimmed back a bit
Then put the seats back in to be sure they will still fold with the new speaker location before getting too carried away
Then run some wire
On the drivers side the wiring harness makes it a bit too tight so a little persuasion (of the variety involving a hammer) made just enough room.
Since you can see it in the shot above we may was well mention spending some time with some Peel and Seal to cut down on road noise and vibration
Then get the other side put in and try it out for a week or two which led to the the discovery that the rubber well nuts (used where the threaded clips wouldn't fit) popped loose after a brisk run down a wash-boarded gravel road.
So it quick stop by MD Metrics led to having one of these in the tool box
I'm not sure how I lived with out it for so long. Rivet nuts and a setter are a very cool little tool that lets you put a stout threaded insert into a blind sheet metal location. If you want one go here http://mdmetric.com/prod/rivetnuttool/rivetnuttool.htm
Now with the much stronger hangers it is time to try to get some upholstery on without too much "helper" hair in the glue.
The keen observer will also note that at this point it was time for refreshments as well.
Put the panels in with all the trim
Then fight the seats back in and it's done
If you have specific questions let me know and I'll see what other details I can remember.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
sometimes it's good to live near the warehouse for a carpet and flooring distributor
Yeah it's running great, I'm about 3500 mi into it. It has really smoothed out and is pulling nicely.
Thanks again for making the haul up to help with the build
Yeah it's running great, I'm about 3500 mi into it. It has really smoothed out and is pulling nicely.
Thanks again for making the haul up to help with the build
Last edited by cameron110; 09-29-2011 at 03:01 PM.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
That looks really clean!
Any specific reason you left the gab in the new panels in the footwell?
Can you share any more info/photos of that rivet tool? does that basically insert a threaded cylinder into an existing/drilled hole, and then compress it so that it stays, leaving a threaded fastener held in place? Pretty cool!! I want to replace my rear plastic panels with diamond plate some day but always wondered how I'd secure them - this looks promising!
Any specific reason you left the gab in the new panels in the footwell?
Can you share any more info/photos of that rivet tool? does that basically insert a threaded cylinder into an existing/drilled hole, and then compress it so that it stays, leaving a threaded fastener held in place? Pretty cool!! I want to replace my rear plastic panels with diamond plate some day but always wondered how I'd secure them - this looks promising!
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Can you share any more info/photos of that rivet tool? does that basically insert a threaded cylinder into an existing/drilled hole, and then compress it so that it stays, leaving a threaded fastener held in place? Pretty cool!! I want to replace my rear plastic panels with diamond plate some day but always wondered how I'd secure them - this looks promising!
http://mdmetric.com/prod/rivetnuttool/rivetnuttool.htm
There are a couple animated GIFs on the vendors site that show how it works, as well as write ups and downloadable PDF instructions.
From what you wrote it sounds like you get the concept already.
The M6 Aluminum Rivet Nuts p/n ATA2-610 fit in a hole ever so slightly larger than the ones in the body for the OEM plastic clips, about 30 seconds with a rat tail file worked better than trying to drill it with the bit that came with the kit. I also put a dab of paint around the hole while I was installing the rivet nut to seal up the bare metal edge I had created.
There are a great many tools on the market to install a rivet nut but IMHO this is the best for occasional use, it is cheap, super simple and therefor very unlikely to break or wear out and it can be used for a wide range of rivet nut sizes (metric or SAE) simply by swapping out the compression bolt and possibly adding a shim for the smaller ones.
The only downshot is that it takes about 2 min to put in each rivet nut with this tool. No problem at all for the home mechanic but if you were using it in a shop where time is $$$ then you would probably want to shell out the $200 - $800 for the pro-grade tool.
here is a blurry (sorry) shot of the tool with an un-used rivet nut on the compression bolt and you can see an installed rivet nut complete with dab of paint there in the sheet metal
Last edited by cameron110; 09-29-2011 at 05:11 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
You can shrink them with any number of photo editing software but if you have them somewhere else online (picassa, snapfish, facebook, or my personal favorite smugmug) then you can insert them using the instructions listed in FAQ section of YotaTech:
https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq...b3_attachments
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums (?) in this way too.
https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq...b3_attachments
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums (?) in this way too.
Last edited by cameron110; 04-16-2012 at 06:16 PM.
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
You can shrink them with any number of photo editing software but if you have them somewhere else online (picassa, snapfish, facebook, or my personal favorite smugmug) then you can insert them using the instructions listed in FAQ section of YotaTech:
[URL="https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s"]https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s[/
URL]
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums (?) in this way too.
[URL="https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s"]https://www.yotatech.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s[/
URL]
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums (?) in this way too.
#15
#16
Clean install!
I'm with Philbert; Clean Install!
Thanks for sharing, and the reference to "Peel and Seal" - speaking of bang for the buck when in comes to sound-proofing!!
Thanks for sharing, and the reference to "Peel and Seal" - speaking of bang for the buck when in comes to sound-proofing!!
#17
Contributing Member
looks good man .. but doesnt the seat hit the grill , i had mine like that and would have to be careful not to tear the grill out , so i ended up removing them and putting some grills off a ford windstar. now i have some pioneer components back there and the second pics have some 6x9's
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Well ordered the rivet tool this morning since its coming from maryland and iam in california I'm gonna have to wait about 5 days for it to arrive , and wont have my 6 1/2 speakers til friday , i'am guessing my project wont be done til late next week.
As for those tabs are concerend i'm gonna stop by a shop that does car interiors and ask them whats the best way to remove them and if they got some more I can use put them back cause the inserts that
Go thru the panels are pretty thin so if I cut the tabs off I will be cutting the inserts of the plastic pieces , but I will find out tomorrow , then I can proceed with cutting the panels out.
As for those tabs are concerend i'm gonna stop by a shop that does car interiors and ask them whats the best way to remove them and if they got some more I can use put them back cause the inserts that
Go thru the panels are pretty thin so if I cut the tabs off I will be cutting the inserts of the plastic pieces , but I will find out tomorrow , then I can proceed with cutting the panels out.
#19
Contributing Member
^^dude those clips are just some metal washers type deal ,they just pop off ..when you remove them you will bend them , you can flatten them and re use them
Last edited by RMA; 04-17-2012 at 06:26 PM.
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
looks good man .. but doesnt the seat hit the grill , i had mine like that and would have to be careful not to tear the grill out , so i ended up removing them and putting some grills off a ford windstar. now i have some pioneer components back there and the second pics have some 6x9's
[IMG]http://
i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/rmalanis/Marcos%201988%204runner/IMG790.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://
i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/rmalanis/Marcos%201988%204runner/IMG790.jpg[/IMG]