02-09-2016, 10:04 AM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Interior Guides
- Toyota 4Runner 1984-1995 Aftermarket Sound System Modifications
Overview of popular modifications to customize your 4Runner
Browse all: Interior Guides
1989 4runner SR5 3.0L Stereo System Build
05-26-2012, 05:55 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1989 4runner SR5 3.0L Stereo System Build
Ok here is what I would like to do! I have read enough about the Impedance, volts, amps, etc. about using amps. Now I have decided that where money allows I am going with the same manufacturer as my stereo BOSS 638BA. The problem I am running into is I need input on which BOSS amp I can get away with and at the same time I want to go as big RMS as I can so if I decide to ever go more then one speaker (subwoofer) I will be able to. I really don't want to hack into my altenator as I saw a hack to change it over for more amps. Again for now I only want to run one subwoofer, but yet in the future have the option to add more to it.
Here is a nice little question: If the subwoofer is 200watts RMS and an amp is 500+ watts RMS (unbridged) per channel is that ok?
Another question now if I am right right from the research I have done my Yota has a factory alternator that has a rating of 60amps and the stock battery (well the standard one that one buys from the store) is it advisable to go with an aftermarket battery like this one... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-XHC600.html . Or open to suggestion on that too
. Also I will be replacing the battery cables (both neg and pos) and the engine to chassis ground cable (or put another one if necessary!).
So for all those who are experienced or experts let me hear your advice and input no matter good or bad.
Thanks a million,
Bill
Here is a nice little question: If the subwoofer is 200watts RMS and an amp is 500+ watts RMS (unbridged) per channel is that ok?
Another question now if I am right right from the research I have done my Yota has a factory alternator that has a rating of 60amps and the stock battery (well the standard one that one buys from the store) is it advisable to go with an aftermarket battery like this one... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-XHC600.html . Or open to suggestion on that too
. Also I will be replacing the battery cables (both neg and pos) and the engine to chassis ground cable (or put another one if necessary!). So for all those who are experienced or experts let me hear your advice and input no matter good or bad.
Thanks a million,
Bill
05-27-2012, 01:34 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok here is what I would like to do! I have read enough about the Impedance, volts, amps, etc. about using amps. Now I have decided that where money allows I am going with the same manufacturer as my stereo BOSS 638BA.
What is the price of the boss amp you are looking into? it may be worth your while to stay away from that brand amp, just a suggestion not trying to throw insults, but you typically get what you pay for when it comes to audio.
The problem I am running into is I need input on which BOSS amp I can get away with and at the same time I want to go as big RMS as I can so if I decide to ever go more then one speaker (subwoofer) I will be able to.
my first suggestion, is figure out the amps TRUE rms, not what the manufacturer tells you. the way i figure it out is amperage x voltage. your battery will at best see 14.4 volts, multiply that by the amperage rating on the amp ( size of fuses ) example, amp has two 30amp fuses in it. 14.4*30=432. so the most you will get out of the amp is 432 watts, regardless of what the 2billion watt sticker on it says.
I really don't want to hack into my altenator as I saw a hack to change it over for more amps. Again for now I only want to run one subwoofer, but yet in the future have the option to add more to it.
I have done many basic amp set ups in many vehicles, and have yet to change an alternator with a single sub amp. Again it wouldnt hurt to upgrade, but i dont see it as a needed thing. with a better battery, and better wires you should be good to go.
Here is a nice little question: If the subwoofer is 200watts RMS and an amp is 500+ watts RMS (unbridged) per channel is that ok?
What is the peak rating on the subwoofer? rms is what is suggested to keep the sub happy, but max is more what i would worry about. if its 200 rms and 1000 max, as long as you are over 200 and under 1000 you are good. also look for an amp that is stable at lower ohm loads. the amp may be 500x1 at 4ohm (good for one sub) but 1000x1 at 2ohms (achieved with a second sub, by lowering the impedance.) will help you down the road if or when you decide to add another sub.
Another question now if I am right right from the research I have done my Yota has a factory alternator that has a rating of 60amps and the stock battery (well the standard one that one buys from the store) is it advisable to go with an aftermarket battery like this one... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-XHC600.html . Or open to suggestion on that too. Also I will be replacing the battery cables (both neg and pos) and the engine to chassis ground cable (or put another one if necessary!).
it wouldnt hurt to have a gel cell battery in the vehicle, but certainly should not kill the truck from one sub amp drawing power. upgrading your cables is always a good idea as you mentioned, and certainly adding a larger,better ground from battery to body wont hurt either.
So for all those who are experienced or experts let me hear your advice and input no matter good or bad.
Thanks a million,
Bill
What is the price of the boss amp you are looking into? it may be worth your while to stay away from that brand amp, just a suggestion not trying to throw insults, but you typically get what you pay for when it comes to audio.
The problem I am running into is I need input on which BOSS amp I can get away with and at the same time I want to go as big RMS as I can so if I decide to ever go more then one speaker (subwoofer) I will be able to.
my first suggestion, is figure out the amps TRUE rms, not what the manufacturer tells you. the way i figure it out is amperage x voltage. your battery will at best see 14.4 volts, multiply that by the amperage rating on the amp ( size of fuses ) example, amp has two 30amp fuses in it. 14.4*30=432. so the most you will get out of the amp is 432 watts, regardless of what the 2billion watt sticker on it says.
I really don't want to hack into my altenator as I saw a hack to change it over for more amps. Again for now I only want to run one subwoofer, but yet in the future have the option to add more to it.
I have done many basic amp set ups in many vehicles, and have yet to change an alternator with a single sub amp. Again it wouldnt hurt to upgrade, but i dont see it as a needed thing. with a better battery, and better wires you should be good to go.
Here is a nice little question: If the subwoofer is 200watts RMS and an amp is 500+ watts RMS (unbridged) per channel is that ok?
What is the peak rating on the subwoofer? rms is what is suggested to keep the sub happy, but max is more what i would worry about. if its 200 rms and 1000 max, as long as you are over 200 and under 1000 you are good. also look for an amp that is stable at lower ohm loads. the amp may be 500x1 at 4ohm (good for one sub) but 1000x1 at 2ohms (achieved with a second sub, by lowering the impedance.) will help you down the road if or when you decide to add another sub.
Another question now if I am right right from the research I have done my Yota has a factory alternator that has a rating of 60amps and the stock battery (well the standard one that one buys from the store) is it advisable to go with an aftermarket battery like this one... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-XHC600.html . Or open to suggestion on that too
. Also I will be replacing the battery cables (both neg and pos) and the engine to chassis ground cable (or put another one if necessary!). it wouldnt hurt to have a gel cell battery in the vehicle, but certainly should not kill the truck from one sub amp drawing power. upgrading your cables is always a good idea as you mentioned, and certainly adding a larger,better ground from battery to body wont hurt either.
So for all those who are experienced or experts let me hear your advice and input no matter good or bad.
Thanks a million,
Bill
. Ok another question is could I be safe to use one of those "gel cell" as a replacement for my present battery?
05-27-2012, 06:37 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it wouldnt hurt, at the very least it is a "maintenance free" battery. I would stay away from optima. a few years ago i used to run them in some show vehicles, that did stereo competitions. i blew through those battries like water, they were terrible.
05-28-2012, 04:27 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By the way I really do appreciate the great advice
You giving me and patience.
05-29-2012, 05:56 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I'll stay away from optima for sure!! So a good decent maintenance free battery will do me just fine? Hmm here's something I was thinking would going with a higher then Oem amp hr battery be ok, also higher capacity or save my money and stay oem?
By the way I really do appreciate the great advice
You giving me and patience.
By the way I really do appreciate the great advice
You giving me and patience.
06-11-2012, 01:17 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok good news on this build!! 
I decided to go with a BOSS CX1100 1100watt peak amp. The subwoofers are Audiobahn 10" 300watt RMS 600 watt Peak. Yes there are 2! Came with an enclosure which is heavy as hell
.
Now the fun began on which wiring kit to use??? I decided to go with 4gauge hot and negative to the amp. That was not hard to run and tuck it nicely away. The ground I put to the roll bar fasten down bolts. Ok on that. Then I ran the remote wire from the Stereo to the amp (to tell it when to come and off.). Then I decided to run the RCA plugs from the stereo rear line out to the sub. I tucked those away under the center console.
Ok I want to mention that the Audiobahn speakers had dual voice coils, thus two different hookups on each of the speakers.
After I saw this I had to hit up the computer and do alot of reading on wiring them together lmao. Anyways I wired them for 2ohm resistance! Fastened them down into the box (without testing with the Multimeter). Lug the heaver !@#$% down to the 4runner and hooked up everything. Turned on the steroe and the amp and man I was sooo excited.... NO SOUND! Lights good on the amp, the setting were good, and rushed up to the front of the driver seat with the remote to the stereo in my and turned off. <--- Note I couldve just turned it off with the stereo remote lmao. So I thought hmmm, then 
there are two speaker inputs on the box and I was plugged into the wrong one!!!! I put the wires into the other port and hit the remote! YES!!!! Sound check good George! Then I noticed one speaker was NOT working, thinking s!@# now what?!?!?! I took the subs out and checked all the wires. OMFG, I forgot to hook up one of them ahahahaha. So I hooked it up refastened everything, double checking my progress all good. Then I got out the multimeter, tested and BAM 2ohm!!! 
. Hooked up the wires to the correct port then POWER UP! Threw in a mixtape of a BASS song and WOWSA nice beat! Soo that ALMOST completes my build up.
I decided to go with a BOSS CX1100 1100watt peak amp. The subwoofers are Audiobahn 10" 300watt RMS 600 watt Peak. Yes there are 2! Came with an enclosure which is heavy as hell
. Now the fun began on which wiring kit to use??? I decided to go with 4gauge hot and negative to the amp. That was not hard to run and tuck it nicely away. The ground I put to the roll bar fasten down bolts. Ok on that. Then I ran the remote wire from the Stereo to the amp (to tell it when to come and off.). Then I decided to run the RCA plugs from the stereo rear line out to the sub. I tucked those away under the center console.
Ok I want to mention that the Audiobahn speakers had dual voice coils, thus two different hookups on each of the speakers.
After I saw this I had to hit up the computer and do alot of reading on wiring them together lmao. Anyways I wired them for 2ohm resistance! Fastened them down into the box (without testing with the Multimeter). Lug the heaver !@#$% down to the 4runner and hooked up everything. Turned on the steroe and the amp and man I was sooo excited.... NO SOUND! Lights good on the amp, the setting were good, and rushed up to the front of the driver seat with the remote to the stereo in my and turned off. <--- Note I couldve just turned it off with the stereo remote lmao. So I thought hmmm, then there are two speaker inputs on the box and I was plugged into the wrong one!!!! I put the wires into the other port and hit the remote! YES!!!! Sound check good George! Then I noticed one speaker was NOT working, thinking s!@# now what?!?!?! I took the subs out and checked all the wires. OMFG, I forgot to hook up one of them ahahahaha. So I hooked it up refastened everything, double checking my progress all good. Then I got out the multimeter, tested and BAM 2ohm!!! . Hooked up the wires to the correct port then POWER UP! Threw in a mixtape of a BASS song and WOWSA nice beat! Soo that ALMOST completes my build up.
Trending Topics
06-15-2012, 06:28 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My next step is to upgrade the BIGGGGGG Thhhhhreeeeeeee... oooo ahhhhh! Always wanted to type that lmao. I have been looking at different types of wire and really can't decide. Either the same gauge as I have OR maybe 4 gauge copper? ### EDIT: I was looking up batteries and found that it already has 4 gauge wire lol. So any suggestion on what is top notch wire?
** THIS is where I am asking someone if it is ok to put a bigger gauge then OEM in place. Will it screw up TOYOTA's "perfection" parts???? Rather screw up something in the electrical system?
.
*** Also will soldering the terminal ends with the wire make a difference or just about the same?
While doing the BIG 3 upgrade/update I will clean the connection points of each end. If its metal frame or fender contact point take a light file or sand paper and get all the grease, rust, and dirt off. The others I will clean appropriately.
Battery: Hmm I will be going with OEM replacement as suggested but try to find the DUAL purpose mentioned earlier. The one I have now is ok with 575cca and size of a motorcycle battery, but OEM is like 770cca or close to that. Helluva bit bigger. In time I would "like" to add a spare battery with an isolator which I really do not need at this point but definitely worth having.
That's it for now. Please do answer the questions I asked above.
** THIS is where I am asking someone if it is ok to put a bigger gauge then OEM in place. Will it screw up TOYOTA's "perfection" parts???? Rather screw up something in the electrical system?
. *** Also will soldering the terminal ends with the wire make a difference or just about the same?
While doing the BIG 3 upgrade/update I will clean the connection points of each end. If its metal frame or fender contact point take a light file or sand paper and get all the grease, rust, and dirt off. The others I will clean appropriately.
Battery: Hmm I will be going with OEM replacement as suggested but try to find the DUAL purpose mentioned earlier. The one I have now is ok with 575cca and size of a motorcycle battery, but OEM is like 770cca or close to that. Helluva bit bigger. In time I would "like" to add a spare battery with an isolator which I really do not need at this point but definitely worth having.
That's it for now. Please do answer the questions I asked above.
Last edited by 1989FourRunnin; 06-15-2012 at 06:51 PM.
06-28-2012, 07:56 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Time for another update!
I added some 4in speakers into the front dash in place the OEM 10watt speakers. Instead of spissing with the 4 wire connectors that Toyota put into the Marvelous 10watters I ran my own 14gauge wiring. DO NOTE I left the original wiring in tact and unhooked. Wasn't to hard to hookup as they are routed to the "head unit" not the amp. So far and get this, there is no starvation from the electrical apparatus like headlight dimming/flickering from a decent bass pounding, morning awaking, and ear pleasing from this setup. I have yet to do the BIG3 upgrade.
I installed these:
http://www.amazon.com/Manufactured-A...ds=320watt+dub
2 DUB240 320watt peak (160watt peak each) 80 watt RMS each 4inch Speakers with Silke dome tweeters.
Dub speakers were manufactured by Audiobahn.
Another note there is a slight curve in the upper corners of the 10watt OEM speakers that have to be replicated for any other aftermarket speaker to accommodate the fit!!!! In detail on the passenger side the upper right side is bent inward towards the front face about 1/2 an inch. On the driver side it is the bend is on the upper left same as above.
Still have to consider what I am going to about the OEM speakers in the rear panels! At the moment I am using this little gizmo from the W store...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Fu...ofers/17128654 .
It does a decent job but not really what I am looking for. Probably will go with something from Audiobahn mid range in boxes. There is two places I am looking at to mount them 1. in the little cubby boxes on both sides, or 2. With custom boxes mounted on the inside rollbar pointing towards the front of the vehicle as it is for my listening experience lmao. I will update everyone soon.
I added some 4in speakers into the front dash in place the OEM 10watt speakers. Instead of spissing with the 4 wire connectors that Toyota put into the Marvelous 10watters I ran my own 14gauge wiring. DO NOTE I left the original wiring in tact and unhooked. Wasn't to hard to hookup as they are routed to the "head unit" not the amp. So far and get this, there is no starvation from the electrical apparatus like headlight dimming/flickering from a decent bass pounding, morning awaking, and ear pleasing from this setup. I have yet to do the BIG3 upgrade.
I installed these:
http://www.amazon.com/Manufactured-A...ds=320watt+dub
2 DUB240 320watt peak (160watt peak each) 80 watt RMS each 4inch Speakers with Silke dome tweeters.
Dub speakers were manufactured by Audiobahn.
Another note there is a slight curve in the upper corners of the 10watt OEM speakers that have to be replicated for any other aftermarket speaker to accommodate the fit!!!! In detail on the passenger side the upper right side is bent inward towards the front face about 1/2 an inch. On the driver side it is the bend is on the upper left same as above.
Still have to consider what I am going to about the OEM speakers in the rear panels! At the moment I am using this little gizmo from the W store...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Fu...ofers/17128654 .
It does a decent job but not really what I am looking for. Probably will go with something from Audiobahn mid range in boxes. There is two places I am looking at to mount them 1. in the little cubby boxes on both sides, or 2. With custom boxes mounted on the inside rollbar pointing towards the front of the vehicle as it is for my listening experience lmao. I will update everyone soon.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
09-09-2015 06:24 AM
Avenged
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
4
07-09-2015 07:55 AM
Vargntucson
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
0
07-04-2015 12:15 PM
