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DFW 22RE Engine Rebuilders?

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Old 01-21-2011, 12:49 PM
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DFW 22RE Engine Rebuilders?

Any good places to have an engine rebuilt (or buy a rebuilt engine) in the Dallas/ Fort Worth area (preferably FW)? Looks like I need one. I know there are plenty of places on-line but figured I would check locally first.
Old 01-24-2011, 03:53 AM
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I asked the same question for the Corpus, San Antonio, Austin Area and never got a reply. Will be watching
Old 01-24-2011, 05:58 AM
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I am afraid we never will. I just got this email saying you had replied in the Texas Forum. I did not even know there was a Texas Forum.
Old 01-24-2011, 06:06 AM
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Me neither! Its a bit of a drive for you, but I have used a performance shop in Waco on previous projects that could rebuild your engine. Ledfords Performance on Austin St. His brother runs another shop called Ledfords as well, so be sure you call the one on Austin St. Owners name is Gary. I'm prolly just going to haul my 3.slow for him to do the machine work, and order a kit from Ted at engnblder.
Old 10-07-2014, 01:23 PM
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I wouldn't use Ledford's

Originally Posted by 88toyblackjack
Me neither! Its a bit of a drive for you, but I have used a performance shop in Waco on previous projects that could rebuild your engine. Ledfords Performance on Austin St. His brother runs another shop called Ledfords as well, so be sure you call the one on Austin St. Owners name is Gary. I'm prolly just going to haul my 3.slow for him to do the machine work, and order a kit from Ted at engnblder.
I wouldn't use Ledford's on Austin Ave in Waco for several reasons:
1. They took 5 months to get my shortblock back, and didn't really even really take a look at it until about 3 months in
2. They tried to charge me almost double what I was quoted initially
3. Charged me for things they didn't do, like "assemble longblock" etc.
4. tried to keep all of the other parts I had brought in initially, like the flywheel and a spare head for parts
5. machined and installed over $200 worth of parts (guides, seals, seats) on the wrong year head because they weren't paying attention...I had to re-purchase the same parts for them to install on the correct head. They charged me for the extra machining and labor, although it was their mistake.
6. Gary's wife Denise is a pain to work with / call in / talk to.
7. Told me several times that the motor would be done by a certain day, and it wasn't (after wasting a saturday driving a long way to pick it up).
and many other reasons.....
Here's sort of a rundown that I logged while dealing with them.

Originally Posted by joelsmithdesigns
just a little look into what I went through with the machine shop. What a nightmare.
3/??/14 - 1st motor

3/17/14 – 1st Block identified as early model – confirmed via email.

4/1/14 – found out block was un-salvageable

4/2/14 – tried to get other block from Austin

4/10/14 – 2nd 22RE block delivered to Ledford’s

5/1/14 – Email from Denise thinking the new block wouldn’t make .40 over.

5/6/14 – Email from Denise saying the block made it to .40 over
Ordered full rebuild kit from LCE performance

5/16/14 –call to Ledford’s to discuss engine
unanswered email sent to check on progress

5/30/14 – 2nd call to Ledford’s
unanswered email about bearings being packaged differently

6/6/14 – Rockers and Shafts Delivered to Ledford’s

6/17/14 – unanswered email asking about timeline and progress

6/21/14 – Call to Ledford’s - Was told it should be done by July 4th Weekend

7/2/14 – Call to Ledford’s – Was told it wasn’t going to be ready by July 4th

7/17/14 – Call from Ledford’s saying they would overnight ARP rod bolts from Dallas and have it finished by the weekend ***only call received from Ledford’s***

7/19/14 – 268 mile, 4 ½ hour, round trip from Denton to pick up finished motor. Engine was not finished.

8/9/14 – picked up finished motor

8/10/14 – realized Ledford’s had machined / installed all of the parts on the wrong (81-84) head

8/20/14 – was told that the head I had was cracked. Not sure if they heated up with a blowtorch and threw ice on it, or whether it was already cracked.

8/21/14 – ordered new head casting, Pro guides, SS seats, and new Viton seals from LCE.

8/25/14 – parts arrived at Ledford’s

9/20/14 – picked up finished head….finally. They tried to keep the machined 81-84 head as payment for the “extra” work, but when I pointed out that they were the ones that made the mistake, and that I had several hundred dollars in machine work and parts in that head, I ended up leaving with it.
Old 03-02-2015, 05:32 PM
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even BETTER news about Ledford's in Waco, TX

Even better than the headache above, they either broke the rings when installing them, or put them in upside down or out of order. I'm having to completely pull the motor again and have it redone.
Old 03-02-2015, 08:20 PM
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JIS engines in Arlington have always been good to me. jisengine.com 817-795-9933
Old 03-05-2015, 07:20 AM
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I used a shop in SA back in 07 for a short block. Didn't last long, sometimes you get what you pay for, excuse pun. Last engine was from a builder in WA, but was living on other side of WA. I found a business address to ship to saved a little on shipping.

If you looking for a performance build might be best to go with a builder that does lots of 22RE. Joel's experience makes me cringe.
Old 04-29-2016, 10:43 AM
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DFW Motor rebuilder- YES there is one

Guys I looked long and hard to find a DFW engine rebuilder. I needed a turn key service: drop off the truck, they pull it, rebuild it, and re-install it. I found one in Garland, TX. I
They will replace your motor or rebuild it for you.
He'll install your parts if you want- he wasn't pushing his parts for money. He called me down after they pulled the motor apart and went through the problems, answered all my questions. He kept in contact and if I called, responded immediately. They rebuilt the 3.0 on my 94 - I also had them install the head studs and the MLS head gaskets for me, install rebuilt injectors, etc. -no extra charge.... I am sure they would do a 22RE, but not sure about making it a custom motor.
I get it back Monday but I heard it run today and it was purring. I'll start a thread about it with updates once I get to the 15 posts.
The entire rebuild, uninstall, re-install was $2500-seemed very reasonable to me.

Last edited by Dewrunner; 10-10-2017 at 08:03 AM.
Old 09-30-2016, 10:24 AM
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Thanks Dewrunner. I am just about at the point of a rebuild or swap. Like you I don't have time to deal it myself.

Now that you have a few months on the engine is it still behaving well?

Carl
Old 09-30-2016, 11:45 AM
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I had my 3vz-e rebuilt at a shop in Mesquite, TX called Tower East Automotive. Its been a year, so far work seems solid. The only bad notes about them when I was getting my engine rebuilt were shoty costumer service & It took them 4 months to rebuild my engine because one of their master mechanics was out.
Old 09-30-2016, 02:34 PM
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Thanks janos01. I got home too late to call either but will try on Monday. My only quote so far in the DFW Area was "around "$4000" for pull, overhaul or replace, and reinstall. That includes parts that I'll want to replace while the engine is out (pumps, hoses, and such). It did not include new clutch but was told that could be done for parts cost once the engine was out.

to keep from hijacking the thread too much, I am guessing that labor would be about the same for 22RE as it is for the 3VZE.

Last edited by Green; 09-30-2016 at 02:37 PM.
Old 10-02-2016, 09:59 AM
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Hey Green -
I'll keep this a Quick Reply -
The 3.0 rebuild is running great. I've got 3,000 miles on it since the rebuild. No problems as far as the motor running well. I changed the oil at 1,000 miles, and I kept it below 3,000 RPM until then. It had a bit of a rough, high idle at about 900 miles, and I took it in and now it's fine.
I have had a small oil leak, maybe a drop after every drive It's not excessive, and it's not coming from the valve covers or heads. I am planning to take it in and have them look it over - Alex said they stand behind their work and they will diagnose and take care of it. I will be taking it in for that to be done within the next two weeks. The paperwork states that they warranty labor on the rebuild for 3 months. It's been 4 since the rebuild. I'll post again after the issue is resolved and let you know how they handled it.
Total cost for rebuild without my replacement parts was $2568.45. They had the truck no more than 2 weeks.
I will post some parts that I purchased. If you want more info, shoot me a PM.
If you find another shop in the DFW area, good luck! Keep us all posted if you do so we can help each other out in the area.

Last edited by Dewrunner; 10-02-2016 at 11:11 AM.
Old 10-02-2016, 10:00 AM
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3VZE rebuild extra parts

For what it's worth, here's a blip on some parts I ordered for the 3.0 rebuild(don't mean to hijack but I can't start a new one yet):
Recommended a new radiator:
https://www.amazon.com/CSF-2056-Radiator/dp/B000CFPH2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475432607&sr=8-1&keywords=csf+radiator+2056 https://www.amazon.com/CSF-2056-Radiator/dp/B000CFPH2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475432607&sr=8-1&keywords=csf+radiator+2056
Replaced injectors: 4 hole rebuilt upgrades off e-bay. Item number 261228448791.
Doug Thorley headers: http://shop.dougthorleyheaders.com/c...ders-thy-505-c
Head studs: Note the recommended torque on these is much higher than factory.: http://www.lceperformance.com/searchresults.asp?Search=1024065&Submit=Submit

I plan on keeping the 94, even if it's a 3.0. I couldn't find anyone who was interested in even talking about the 3.4 swap, let alone performing it. I didn't have the time, place, or mechanical aptitude.

Last edited by Dewrunner; 03-05-2017 at 10:24 PM. Reason: More info-removed MLS head gasket info
Old 10-03-2016, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Green
Thanks janos01. I got home too late to call either but will try on Monday. My only quote so far in the DFW Area was "around "$4000" for pull, overhaul or replace, and reinstall. That includes parts that I'll want to replace while the engine is out (pumps, hoses, and such). It did not include new clutch but was told that could be done for parts cost once the engine was out.

to keep from hijacking the thread too much, I am guessing that labor would be about the same for 22RE as it is for the 3VZE.
My rebuild cost me around $1600 for the heads & $2800 for the short block. The work was done by a local machine shop in Mesquite that they use. I dont know the name of it tho.
Old 10-03-2016, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Dewrunner

I plan on keeping the 94, even if it's a 3.0. I couldn't find anyone who was interested in even talking about the 3.4 swap, let alone performing it. I didn't have the time, place, or mechanical aptitude.
Hi Dewrunner,

Have you looked into picking up just a completely rebuilt turnkey motor from somewhere like City Motor Supply here in Dallas? http://www.citymotorsupply.com/index.php

or JDM in Richardson (currently have one for $2,000)? http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/jdm-en...us-engine.html

Otherwise, I'd use Wayne Calvert in Denton, but it's going to get pricey quickly.

I'd go for the crate option over trying to have yours rebuilt. I went through hell with my rebuild and would buy one straight out if I were to do it over again.

Joel in Denton
Old 10-03-2016, 11:53 AM
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Thanks again. I am in the same boat with less than the needed numbers to start a new post. I talked with Alex today and got good vibes in response to my questions. Numbers were in line with dewrunner's unless my crank is bad. That could add ~$400 for crank and bearings. Will not know till we open it up.

I asked about the conversion and he shied away stating they had not done them and like to keep quick turnaround with what they know as their priority. I did offer him the truck for whatever time he needed but, no. He did say he had a low mileage Import engine for $1300 if I did find someone to do the swap. (It does not have the ECU)

I'll get those parts ordered and schedule a time and keep y'all posted. Maybe by then I'll have the posts needed to start my own thread and quit hijacking this 22RE thread.

Btw - I did see that those injectors are also offered for the 22RE on eBay by the same seller. I almost made the mistake of ordering them. Good thing I caught that there were only four.

Last edited by Green; 10-03-2016 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Hit return too soon, had more to say. Spelling corrections.
Old 01-06-2017, 01:15 PM
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3.0 Rebuld update

Well the 3.0 is running fine but the oil leak came back. I believe it is the RT side head gasket. Soooooo....I just called and asked LCE about it. Evidently the MLS gaskets require a superior surface finish or they do no seal properly (15-30 micro inches Ra min, but recommended 8?). They said that if that was not done- I can't say it was, then to go back with a stock gasket, which is thicker, and does not require the surface finish Ra number(whatever that means). And use the head studs to proper torque and it will seal. Anyway it's going back in to be repaired on Monday. Let's see how Alex treats me, sounds like he is going to stand behind it. But it was my direction to use the MLS gaskets, but I had no idea of the surface finish requirements, neither did the shop. I was just reading on here to use them to eliminate the problem.
I should have just gone back with the factory gaskets in the first place I guess. I will not be beaten by this darn 3.0!
Old 01-06-2017, 04:52 PM
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So the multi-layer-steel (MLS) head gaskets only work with a precision that is almost a mirror polished head and block. Not only that, when using the milling heads that are able to get that fine of a finish, you have to make sure your machine shop also uses what's called a torque plate that simulates the pressure of the head as its bolted in while allowing access to the full head (have yet to see what this could possibly look like, but we're talking milling under torque NASA precision) . Virtually no local shops have those jigs for our 4 angry Japanese squirrels (LCE 22RPERFORMANCE, AND DOARACING, sure, that's all they do) most local shops deal with sbc's and the like. I'm certain that the shop you used took it to standard specs for a normal HG, but you (like me) insisted on the MLS. Use a stock Fel-pro or Timken? (jap) head gasket and if you're that worried about it blowing get some ARP studs. I even spray mine with a liberal coat of "copper coat" gasket dressing for good measure. You haven't overheated severely, gone 100k, and the job they did originally should work with a normal head gasket....just sucks they have to pull it again.
Old 01-06-2017, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by joelsmithdesigns
I even spray mine with a liberal coat of "copper coat" gasket dressing for good measure.
A very bad practice that may well contribute to premature head gasket failure.

Engines that have composite material construction; (aluminum head, iron block), rely on controlled slippage between the head and engine block surfaces because of the different expansion rates of the aluminum and iron.

Both the head surface, and the block deck should be degreased with acetone, and the gasket mounted clean and dry.

Doping headgaskets went out with the passing of iron on iron heads and blocks.


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