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#1 (permalink) | ||||
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Time for another solid axle post
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#2 (permalink) |
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11 nuts and it is yours. Make sure to bring a hammer, a punch (crappy screwdriver will work), some PB Blaster, and a TRE separator along with you rachet and sockets (deepwells). Best thing for the job would be a CO2 setup and an impact or a torch if you have either of those available...
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Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd SAS 4.30s 255/85/16s 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB |
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#3 (permalink) |
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I don't have the separator, but I might take from the steering box down, my little bro has an '80 that he's working on and he wants the steering for some reason. Anyways, if there's anything else that I need to know before I tackle it let me know. Also, is $150 a good deal?
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#4 (permalink) |
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cordless sawzall. its an 84 toyota, so it probobally has rust. it is a PITA to unbolt everything. with only my 18v sawzall, and a hacksaw, it took us about 25 min. to have the axle on the cart and on out way out. and that is only because the battery died before we could cut off the steering. if you have access to a plug, you can make quick work of that front axle. you will be installing new shocks, so just cut them in half. cut at the end where the piston isnt, it will be faster. you will be getting new u-bolts, so that is no big loss. brake lines, i would hope you arent re-using those. steering, you are going hy-steer anyway, so just cut the little arm in half that runs from the box to the knuckle. torque rod, who needs that anyway?
sawzalls make it much faster and easier, pluss more fun if your bro needs the steering, then i guess you will have to unbolt a couple things. $150 isnt a bad deal, but you will want to rebuild it anyway, just for safety. its much easier to rebuild an axle on a bench than under a vehicle. if you are serious about the SAS, then grab it. good luck and have fun
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-Joe Z Chicago 4x4 My Webshots 1985 Toyota 4Runner, 3" Trail Gear rear/ All-Pro front springs, 42x14 IROK's, Allied Rockathons, spool rear/detroit front, 30 spline longs, Dual cases w/4.7, Marlin High steer, lots of other stuff.. 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4, 12valve CTD, not stock. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I'm very serious about doing the SAS. Problem is, this toyota isn't at a junk yard, it's at someone's house. I don't want to do a hack job and leave it there in the front of their house, so the sawzall is kinda out of the question. I plan on asking for a lot of money for x-mas, and an early birthday present which consists of money too. I'm going to get 4.56's put in the diff, along with an ARB. I'm going to buy this kit for my truck. I'll be pretty much set, but I do need to figure out what to do for a drive shaft so if any one knows a good set up, let me know.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
EDIT: I'm sure I don't need to say this but just in case, you torch the rod of the shock and not the canister...
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Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd SAS 4.30s 255/85/16s 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB Last edited by 44Runner; 11-18-2003 at 10:19 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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I have to just unbolt the whole thing. I'm in college, and I don't have the means to rent a torch. I've got my tool kit here also. I'm just wondering if it's going to take a whole day, or just an hour or two.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
if this truck is in there yard, or they still have it, see if you can just buy the whole truck for cheap. take off everything you need, part it out, and then tow it to the yard and get a little scratch for whatever you couldnt sell.
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-Joe Z Chicago 4x4 My Webshots 1985 Toyota 4Runner, 3" Trail Gear rear/ All-Pro front springs, 42x14 IROK's, Allied Rockathons, spool rear/detroit front, 30 spline longs, Dual cases w/4.7, Marlin High steer, lots of other stuff.. 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4, 12valve CTD, not stock. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I'd love to do that, but my issue is also space. I wouldn't have a place to work on it. I plan on taking the solid axle off and dirving home next monday for thanksgiving and leave it at home. Also, she's got somebody do take the engine and trans also.
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#10 (permalink) |
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It shouldnt take long at all. As far as unbolting it, sawzalling, or torching, it isn't gonna make a mess any of those ways. No madder how you remove the axle, the truck will be out front on stands or blocks without an axle. I'd personally get some WD-40 and unbolt the u-bolts, a sawzall would be quicker and easier but pay attn carefully and don't cut into anything on the axle. Get a ball-joint splitter for the steering and that's it "unless" you want the box also. It's a piece of cake man. You can have that thing off in an hour. Yeah, I don't think $150.00 is bad at all.
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87 SAS Toyota. HY-X-over Steering. BFG MT's. Saleen race seats. Last edited by lcopelan22; 11-18-2003 at 07:20 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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It has push/pull steering, so no "seperator" or pickle fork will be needed for the draglink. Pull a cotter pin, and screw the insert out and thats taken care off....
It should not take more than an hour to unbolt it, the time spent usually is wiggling it out from under the rig... |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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You are TAKING THE FRONT AXLE!! I wouldn't worry about the hack job. They are going to have to flatbed it out of there after your handywork - unbolt, sawzall, torch - it doesn't really matter.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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much faster!
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