tell me what you think.

killa b · 11-08-2007, 06:35 PM

this is the front side of the plates

this is the back side of the plates

need to know if these look good ive been praticeing for a while and not sure whats good or not yet thanks for the help.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

**waskillywabbit** · 11-08-2007, 07:11 PM

Cut the plate apart down the weld with a band saw...and check the pentration and porosity. Your welds should look like a stack of dimes when looking at them perpendicularly. It is hard to tell in those pics because the welds are not close up.

Practice makes better, but only if you are doing it right.

killa b · 11-08-2007, 07:25 PM

it doesnt look like dimes stacked together. but does look like <<<<<<< that like v shapes one on top of each other. on the back it stickes out like 32ed of an inch. i did three passes on the top one center and two on the outsides also beveled down.

**waskillywabbit** · 11-08-2007, 07:31 PM

killa b · 11-08-2007, 07:35 PM

what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks

**waskillywabbit** · 11-08-2007, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killa b

what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks

Circle motion or half circle motion weaving back and forth. That is just a pic I pulled off the net somewhere but that is about how they should look...perhaps a bit tighter and smoother.

killa b · 11-08-2007, 07:39 PM

thanks for all of the help. i will give that a try tommorw and see how they turn out thanks for the help

44Runner · 11-10-2007, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killa b

what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks

that looks like a TIG weld.

to comment on your weld we will need better pics

also tell us about your setup

killa b · 11-10-2007, 09:52 AM

i can try for better pics and those were done with a linclon 220v at work. i have a miller 140 110v at home.

44Runner · 11-11-2007, 05:05 AM

I will assume solid wire, gas shielded?

killa b · 11-11-2007, 09:35 AM

yea soild wire and sheiding gais and flux core on the 110v.

gearbox · 11-14-2007, 10:20 PM

I suggest NOT using circular motions with any process not conducive to penetration (SMAW). The reason being that you cannot be certain of penetration [in certain joints] when you're doubling back over cooling metal laid over what should be a bare joint.
Since you're doing SMAW it won't look like what the Wabbit showed. That was TIG on aluminum. Steel and MAG will look different and have different properties and characteristics.
FCAW you can weld drunk while balancing on a basketball and get good penetration (not to be confused with a good WELD as a whole), whereas SMAW you have to use an entirely different technique.

Can you supply a better photo and some stats such as method, machine settings and position?

Your weld doesn't look consistent, which is one of the primary attributes a bead requires. (Not that I'm one to talk, just giving another opinion)

apalmer1 · 11-14-2007, 10:28 PM

If your welds are making more of a >>>> instead of a dime overlap try adjusting the angle you are holding the tip at, and if your pushing the puddle you might want to slow down a bit

90inworks · 11-14-2007, 11:45 PM

what works best for me is to make "z"s and dip in when im at the far points- for tig... looks good keep practicing it will come to you some days i like "J"s its all personal preferance on how you hold and how fast u go while still geting penitration... keep at it !

11-08-2007, 07:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,547	Cut the plate apart down the weld with a band saw...and check the pentration and porosity. Your welds should look like a stack of dimes when looking at them perpendicularly. It is hard to tell in those pics because the welds are not close up. Practice makes better, but only if you are doing it right. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

11-08-2007, 07:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,547	__________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

11-11-2007, 05:05 AM	#10 (permalink)
44Runner Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 993	I will assume solid wire, gas shielded? __________________ Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd and big plans... 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB

11-14-2007, 10:28 PM	#13 (permalink)
apalmer1 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Bend, OR. Posts: 664	If your welds are making more of a >>>> instead of a dime overlap try adjusting the angle you are holding the tip at, and if your pushing the puddle you might want to slow down a bit __________________ 04 taco, 3.4 5spd. loads of goodies, FZJ80 axle SAS in progress. 85 pickup, 327sbc, truggy, in progress. 86 mazda b2000 street queen haha. 92 mazda B2600i 4x4 absolutely mobs. 81 ford bronco drinks gas 90 mazda mx-5 all original. when in doubt, tach it out.

11-14-2007, 11:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
90inworks Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sedro Woolley washington Posts: 794	what works best for me is to make "z"s and dip in when im at the far points- for tig... looks good keep practicing it will come to you some days i like "J"s its all personal preferance on how you hold and how fast u go while still geting penitration... keep at it ! __________________ 1994 p/u v-6 4x4 ex-cab Mods, flowmaster 40 series cobra cb tinted windows alpine 6 button cd player 10in mtx square all sorts of trail lights SAS with 8in lift 3in body lift 35in toyo m.t's tires Soon to be mods, tires, wheels, rocker pannels, alarm, Air lockers. :)

11-08-2007, 07:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
killa b Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: phoenix az Posts: 304	it doesnt look like dimes stacked together. but does look like <<<<<<< that like v shapes one on top of each other. on the back it stickes out like 32ed of an inch. i did three passes on the top one center and two on the outsides also beveled down.

11-08-2007, 07:35 PM	#5 (permalink)
killa b Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: phoenix az Posts: 304	what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks

11-08-2007, 07:39 PM	#7 (permalink)
killa b Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: phoenix az Posts: 304	thanks for all of the help. i will give that a try tommorw and see how they turn out thanks for the help

11-10-2007, 09:52 AM	#9 (permalink)
killa b Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: phoenix az Posts: 304	i can try for better pics and those were done with a linclon 220v at work. i have a miller 140 110v at home.

11-11-2007, 09:35 AM	#11 (permalink)
killa b Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: phoenix az Posts: 304	yea soild wire and sheiding gais and flux core on the 110v.

11-14-2007, 10:20 PM	#12 (permalink)
gearbox Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sac, CA Posts: 24	I suggest NOT using circular motions with any process not conducive to penetration (SMAW). The reason being that you cannot be certain of penetration [in certain joints] when you're doubling back over cooling metal laid over what should be a bare joint. Since you're doing SMAW it won't look like what the Wabbit showed. That was TIG on aluminum. Steel and MAG will look different and have different properties and characteristics. FCAW you can weld drunk while balancing on a basketball and get good penetration (not to be confused with a good WELD as a whole), whereas SMAW you have to use an entirely different technique. Can you supply a better photo and some stats such as method, machine settings and position? Your weld doesn't look consistent, which is one of the primary attributes a bead requires. (Not that I'm one to talk, just giving another opinion)

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search