Stick Welding??? WTF???

Team420 · 07-18-2008, 07:04 PM

Ok...Someone please tell me what im doing wrong. I know how to mig and tig weld, I learned tig welding with aluminum, supposedly its the hardest to learn.
I cant for the life of me lay a bead with this stick welder! It is a pro-arc 1150, yes a tiny one... something like 115 amp, and it runs off a regular 110 outlet.
I am only trying to practice on an old rotor I had kickin around, I have an assortment of different rods.. the one that works best so far is a 6011, I cant read the #'s on the others, but the 6011 are about 1/4" diameter. and I have others that are much bigger, and a box of thin rods.
I guess my question is...am I wasting my time? Is this welder powerfull enough?
TIA....sorry for the newb question, but I have never used one of these before.

Ya...btw, now I know why its called stick welding...cuz your rod always sticks to the metal...lol

76ANTHONY · 07-18-2008, 07:08 PM

does it have heat settings. and do you have some thin stick to practice with? its a tad easier....

***waskillywabbit*** · 07-18-2008, 07:25 PM

Never seen a stick welder worth a damn that didn't run on 220.

I would imagine with a 115 you'd want a very thin rod.

NicCantDecide · 07-18-2008, 08:28 PM

you need pretty thin rods for that stuff, even 1/4" is pushing it. You're not passing enough current to fully melt the stick. I'd imagine you're getting pretty cold, spotty, splattery welds?

Why are you stick welding anyway? Just use your MIG with fluxcore and no gas if you really want to

4Crawler · 07-18-2008, 08:28 PM

Yes, you would want 1/8" or even thinner rod for that, I carry some 3/32" rod for use on the trail with either batteries or my on board welder (also have the 1/8"). 6011 is a good easy to use rod, you need to run it with the electrode positive (work grounded):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Welding

Team420 · 07-18-2008, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 76ANTHONY

does it have heat settings. and do you have some thin stick to practice with? its a tad easier....

Yes, It goes from 10a to 100a, the thiner rod gets real hot real fast, and if it is on full blast, it actually drips.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NicCantDecide

you need pretty thin rods for that stuff, even 1/4" is pushing it. You're not passing enough current to fully melt the stick. I'd imagine you're getting pretty cold, spotty, splattery welds?

Why are you stick welding anyway? Just use your MIG with fluxcore and no gas if you really want to

yes.. cold splattery, lumps. I do not have any other welders... I just know how to use them...I worked in a metal shop for a couple years.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Crawler

Yes, you would want 1/8" or even thinner rod for that, I carry some 3/32" rod for use on the trail with either batteries or my on board welder (also have the 1/8"). 6011 is a good easy to use rod, you need to run it with the electrode positive (work grounded):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Welding

Work is grounded(actually bought a new clamp, cuz it didnt seem like it was grounding well) the 6011 is by far giving me the best "bead", but it is not consistent. Thanks for the link... I will check it out, and keep trying.
I got this welder from a friend, found another for $250 that runs on 220 and uses up tp 350 amps... maybe that is the solution.

scuba · 07-19-2008, 12:15 AM

I mean, if you know how to weld on the others, just keep practicing with that 6011 and youll get it.

In High school i started with stick, then went to mig then tig,
stick was the hardest i think.

If you have some cash lying around i would pick up that other welder.
Just my 2 cents

4Crawler · 07-19-2008, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team420

Work is grounded(actually bought a new clamp, cuz it didnt seem like it was grounding well) the 6011 is by far giving me the best "bead", but it is not consistent. Thanks for the link... I will check it out, and keep trying.
I got this welder from a friend, found another for $250 that runs on 220 and uses up tp 350 amps... maybe that is the solution.

I have a 220 volt stick welder, I think it does 230 amps/AC and 140amps/DC and that works great with 1/8" rod. I think I paid around $200 for it with a boat load of extras.

algranger · 07-19-2008, 07:17 AM

i started learning a month ago and at first i was SO pissed cause i couldnt get the arc going, i had to take a bunch of brakes cause i was so frustrated. its like striking a match but instead of just swiping you swipe the stick on the metal and then stop half way and hold it a little bit away, i know its frustrating to say the least but youll get it. just keep trying. thinner electrodes are generally easier to weld with although i had the easiest time with a 6011 but i was at 160 amps. as for a welder id go pick up a little lincoln theyre not too expensive but theyre one of the top names in with hobart and miller.

Team420 · 07-19-2008, 08:03 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. Im thinking that if I do buy a welder, ill prob get a mig, dont see much sense in spending $ on something I dont know how to use.
Just curious... but why would anyone use a stick over mig any way? I guess I heard that stick is easier to use(though I would never have guessed), and more versatile. Is stick really that usefull? Or do u need stick to weld real thick metal?
Sorry...I know...newb questions again.

***waskillywabbit*** · 07-19-2008, 08:11 AM

A stick welder is more versatile as it doesn't require a separate shielding gas to lug around and you can weld in a wider variety of environments. Try MIG/TIG welding outside in a breeze.

When I learned to weld you were taught oxy/ac torch stuff first, then stick in all positions before you even got to touch a MIG/TIG.

I have a Millermatic 251 MIG machine that will weld 1/2" one pass.

Stick makes a lot more splatter, but it is more versatile than MIG, but you have to clean up the welds from the slag (as the flux is on the rod) with stick too.

I prefer MIG when working on vehicles, but stick is great for outside applications like repairing farm equipment (and you don't have to prep the metal as much with stick).

HTH

hurley842002 · 07-19-2008, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

A stick welder is more versatile as it doesn't require a separate shielding gas to lug around and you can weld in a wider variety of environments. Try MIG/TIG welding outside in a breeze.

When I learned to weld you were taught oxy/ac torch stuff first, then stick in all positions before you even got to touch a MIG/TIG.

I have a Millermatic 251 MIG machine that will weld 1/2" one pass.

Stick makes a lot more splatter, but it is more versatile than MIG, but you have to clean up the welds from the slag (as the flux is on the rod) with stick too.

I prefer MIG when working on vehicles, but stick is great for outside applications like repairing farm equipment (and you don't have to prep the metal as much with stick).

HTH

x2 and I hated oxy/ac, I was too eager to get on the arc and always burned holes with the oxy/ac.

DanStew · 07-19-2008, 08:24 AM

For all my big projects I use a stick. I liked it because it is cheaper and much simpler than the mig (not many moving parts) It does require alot more cleanup of the slag on the weld and th shop floor

But for the price it is great and you can do fine welds with it if you have enoguh practice. It is kind of daunting to use it at first, but once you do it, it is handy to know especialyl if you have to put a few batterys together in the field. You can get cutting electrodes and use the welder to blast throguh some metal, but it makes a hell of a mess. I have a small MIG for sheetmetal and small brackets. Stick welding gets alot of flack. It is perfectly fine to use for projects. I get the impression alot of peopel hate stick welders just because it is harder and they havnt gotten to use it proficently.

Team420 · 07-19-2008, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Try MIG/TIG welding outside in a breeze.

Ya I know.

When I learned to weld you were taught oxy/ac torch stuff first, then stick in all positions before you even got to touch a MIG/TIG.
I think thats my problem... I learned by tig welding thin aluminum.

I have a Millermatic 251 MIG machine that will weld 1/2" one pass.

Thats what I'm talkin about.

Stick makes a lot more splatter, but it is more versatile than MIG, but you have to clean up the welds from the slag (as the flux is on the rod) with stick too.
I dont mind all that...just wanna learn to lay a bead... so far, all I can manage, is a 1" long slug.

I prefer MIG when working on vehicles, but stick is great for outside applications like repairing farm equipment (and you don't have to prep the metal as much with stick).
This is what I thought.
HTH

Yes it did...thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanStew

For all my big projects I use a stick. I liked it because it is cheaper and much simpler than the mig (not many moving parts) It does require alot more cleanup of the slag on the weld and th shop floor

But for the price it is great and you can do fine welds with it if you have enoguh practice. It is kind of daunting to use it at first, but once you do it, it is handy to know especialyl if you have to put a few batterys together in the field. You can get cutting electrodes and use the welder to blast throguh some metal, but it makes a hell of a mess. I have a small MIG for sheetmetal and small brackets. Stick welding gets alot of flack. It is perfectly fine to use for projects. I get the impression alot of peopel hate stick welders just because it is harder and they havnt gotten to use it proficently.

This is also what I thought... and even if after I learn decide to go back to mig, I still wanna know how.

DanStew · 07-19-2008, 10:23 AM

It is good to know. I have been wanting to learn to torch weld so i can have that knowledge, unfortunately i have nobody that i know locally to show me. I dont have the time right now to take classes.

texcat101 · 07-19-2008, 10:44 AM

Look in the pawn shops swap shops etc. I have bought 2 small migs for under 150.00 in the last couple of years. One was a Lincoln 120 amp flux core wire setup it lays a pretty bead. IMO If you weld in a shop out of the wind thats all you need for auto work.

rhah · 07-19-2008, 10:58 AM

delete

07-18-2008, 07:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
*waskillywabbit* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 11,506	Never seen a stick welder worth a damn that didn't run on 220. I would imagine with a 115 you'd want a very thin rod. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC www.myspace.com/wabfab 6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009 WabFab Off-Road Salvation Army Online Kettle

07-18-2008, 08:28 PM	#5 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 6,254	Yes, you would want 1/8" or even thinner rod for that, I carry some 3/32" rod for use on the trail with either batteries or my on board welder (also have the 1/8"). 6011 is a good easy to use rod, you need to run it with the electrode positive (work grounded): - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Welding __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

07-19-2008, 07:17 AM	#9 (permalink)
algranger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Yelm Posts: 1,001	i started learning a month ago and at first i was SO pissed cause i couldnt get the arc going, i had to take a bunch of brakes cause i was so frustrated. its like striking a match but instead of just swiping you swipe the stick on the metal and then stop half way and hold it a little bit away, i know its frustrating to say the least but youll get it. just keep trying. thinner electrodes are generally easier to weld with although i had the easiest time with a 6011 but i was at 160 amps. as for a welder id go pick up a little lincoln theyre not too expensive but theyre one of the top names in with hobart and miller. __________________ Hi-Tech Redneck

07-19-2008, 08:11 AM	#11 (permalink)
*waskillywabbit* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 11,506	A stick welder is more versatile as it doesn't require a separate shielding gas to lug around and you can weld in a wider variety of environments. Try MIG/TIG welding outside in a breeze. When I learned to weld you were taught oxy/ac torch stuff first, then stick in all positions before you even got to touch a MIG/TIG. I have a Millermatic 251 MIG machine that will weld 1/2" one pass. Stick makes a lot more splatter, but it is more versatile than MIG, but you have to clean up the welds from the slag (as the flux is on the rod) with stick too. I prefer MIG when working on vehicles, but stick is great for outside applications like repairing farm equipment (and you don't have to prep the metal as much with stick). HTH __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC www.myspace.com/wabfab 6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009 WabFab Off-Road Salvation Army Online Kettle

07-19-2008, 08:24 AM	#13 (permalink)
DanStew Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Posts: 335	For all my big projects I use a stick. I liked it because it is cheaper and much simpler than the mig (not many moving parts) It does require alot more cleanup of the slag on the weld and th shop floor But for the price it is great and you can do fine welds with it if you have enoguh practice. It is kind of daunting to use it at first, but once you do it, it is handy to know especialyl if you have to put a few batterys together in the field. You can get cutting electrodes and use the welder to blast throguh some metal, but it makes a hell of a mess. I have a small MIG for sheetmetal and small brackets. Stick welding gets alot of flack. It is perfectly fine to use for projects. I get the impression alot of peopel hate stick welders just because it is harder and they havnt gotten to use it proficently. __________________ Dan Stewart 1952 CJ3a 1989 4Runner

07-18-2008, 07:08 PM	#2 (permalink)
76ANTHONY Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 468	does it have heat settings. and do you have some thin stick to practice with? its a tad easier....

07-18-2008, 08:28 PM	#4 (permalink)
NicCantDecide Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA Posts: 165	you need pretty thin rods for that stuff, even 1/4" is pushing it. You're not passing enough current to fully melt the stick. I'd imagine you're getting pretty cold, spotty, splattery welds? Why are you stick welding anyway? Just use your MIG with fluxcore and no gas if you really want to

07-19-2008, 10:23 AM	#15 (permalink)
DanStew Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Posts: 335	It is good to know. I have been wanting to learn to torch weld so i can have that knowledge, unfortunately i have nobody that i know locally to show me. I dont have the time right now to take classes. __________________ Dan Stewart 1952 CJ3a 1989 4Runner

07-19-2008, 10:44 AM	#16 (permalink)
texcat101 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: west Texas Posts: 203	Look in the pawn shops swap shops etc. I have bought 2 small migs for under 150.00 in the last couple of years. One was a Lincoln 120 amp flux core wire setup it lays a pretty bead. IMO If you weld in a shop out of the wind thats all you need for auto work. __________________ 85 4runner, 22re, 3" spring lift, Precision Gear 5.29's w/power brute posi frt & rear, Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 33x12.5x15, Warn M8000 winch, Optima redtop, Marlin Crawler Front, Rear Bumpers and Sliders, Allpro crossover steering & U bolt flip, LC rotors '94 calipers and booster. 4.3 / 700r4 swap in progress - MORE POWER http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...01/43v6007.jpg

07-19-2008, 10:58 AM	#17 (permalink)
rhah Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NWO, Canada Posts: 66	delete Last edited by rhah : 07-19-2008 at 11:00 AM.