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square driveshaft

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Old 04-14-2004, 10:39 AM
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square driveshaft

I have a pretty good start on my 83 shortbed. I'm putting the rears up front with a few leaves from an 83 Wagoneer. My problem is I really don't have the time, or the money to buy a spline kit and have the shaft lenghtened. So as for right now, I figured that I'd build a square D-shaft. Does anybody have some good pics of one so I can get an idea of what to do? Or at least some good advise on how to go about doing this. It seems pretty straight foward. But, I wanna make sure I know what I'm doing before I tear into things.
Old 04-14-2004, 02:35 PM
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search on pirate, i've seen pics there. from what i see, it's quite straightforward. you grind down the yokes square to fit into the end of the tube and just weld it up. best for temporary/spare or low speed crawling though. from what i hear if you run around fast with the hubs locked it'll rattle your teeth out and eat your bearings
Old 04-14-2004, 02:43 PM
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Definately a low-speed driveshaft. I've heard of some that do alright up to 50mph or so but they seem to be in the minority. None do well above 50mph.
Old 04-14-2004, 11:40 PM
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How about, What size tubing should i use? I would figure 2in. and 2.25in. But that seems like there would be a lot of play between the two.
Old 04-15-2004, 10:54 AM
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you get the stuff at a hitch shop, so you'd buy the male and female tubes. should fit together nicely
Old 04-15-2004, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by roktoy84
How about, What size tubing should i use? I would figure 2in. and 2.25in. But that seems like there would be a lot of play between the two.
2"×¼" wall square and 2½"×¼" wall square. This is reciever hitch tubing (both parts). Trick is to find seamless 2½" stock, if not you have to grind a channel in the 2" stock so that they slide freely on extension and compression.
Old 04-15-2004, 08:04 PM
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By the time you do all this, how much more would it take to get it done right. A driveline shop can have you back on the road with a correct length driveline for about $150
Old 04-15-2004, 10:38 PM
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But can a driveline shop offer a 24" slip driveshaft for $30? I've pulled my front driveshaft apart too many times to count. Hell, it's disconnected in the photo at left you just can't see it. Wasn't even flexed at the time.

Last edited by toy283; 04-15-2004 at 10:40 PM.
Old 04-15-2004, 10:38 PM
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I'm kinda in a scramble to get this project done. And most of my money is being spent on the suspension and tires. Also plan to have dual cases soon. So IMO it's kinda a waste of money to buy one now just to have it lengthend later. Plus, I can later use the square d-shaft as trail only.
Old 04-16-2004, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by toy283
But can a driveline shop offer a 24" slip driveshaft for $30? I've pulled my front driveshaft apart too many times to count. Hell, it's disconnected in the photo at left you just can't see it. Wasn't even flexed at the time.
That would be more like a 24" slop, but I understand not wanting to waste money while you're going through multiple conversions. I'm on about my 6th front driveline alteration right now. Getting a CV joint put on my Jesse.
Old 04-16-2004, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by toy283
But can a driveline shop offer a 24" slip driveshaft for $30? I've pulled my front driveshaft apart too many times to count. Hell, it's disconnected in the photo at left you just can't see it. Wasn't even flexed at the time.

I know the feeling. My stock front shaft will seperate with Waggy springs under it in the stock location. Without really flexing it. I can't imagine how easy it would be to do that with the axle moved 3in.

the idea of using reciver hitch tubing is a pretty good one. My alternative was to weld strips of steel to the sides of the smaller size. But, that would be a P.I.T.A.

Last edited by roktoy84; 04-16-2004 at 10:48 PM.
Old 05-06-2004, 08:03 PM
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I figure that your talking about the front shaft. I had a terrible dilema with my front after SAS''ing. I couldn't get enough droop to save my freakin life. The length wasn't the problem at all. I finally figured to get rid of that double cardan joint by taking a rear double U-joint rear drive shaft and splicing it to the right length for the front with a sawzall, grinder, and a welder. It's not perfectly balanced, but I don't Baja so it does good for me. My rear driveshaft came apart about two weeks ago while bouncing the "front" tires on a ledge. It's been a joke that the front shaft is gonna outlast anything on my truck. As someone mentioned here earlier, I welded some small pieces of metal over the main weld to strengthen it. It's been holding strong since September. It works for me. Anyway, maybe give you an idea or two....
Old 05-14-2004, 08:46 AM
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I don't know how relevant this is, but Allpro Offroad offers a long travel slip spline kit. I could be way off, just a thought.
Old 05-14-2004, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by upndair
Getting a CV joint put on my Jesse.
I bet the wife is going to enjoy that!
Old 05-14-2004, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WATRD
I bet the wife is going to enjoy that!
She'd be more impressed if I had it on my Willy...

OK, so that should be "I'm getting a CJ joint put on BY Jesse."
Old 05-14-2004, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by upndair
OK, so that should be "I'm getting a CJ joint put on BY Jesse."
"CJ joint" == Constant J... ???? hehehehhehehe
Old 05-15-2004, 01:14 PM
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my front axle is moved 3 inches foward. With the stock d-shaft, I can't even get it together. The long spline kit would still seperate. I could have the shaft lengthened. But right now it's a waste of money (goin dual cases sometime this summer). Plus, I can make the square one with enough slip to possibly be used as a spare for the rear. But I haven't measured for that yet. This is just a good CHEAP way for me to get my truck done. 25 dollars for the tubing is a lot less than a 190 dollar spline kit.
Old 05-15-2004, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by WATRD
"CJ joint" == Constant J... ???? hehehehhehehe
Crappy Jeep Joint
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