Solid Axle Swap Has Begun!!!!! - Page 4

Toy4x4 · 12-24-2005, 12:30 PM

looks great...real tight in there with tie-rod and the spring at full compression but it fits none the less. An awesome job to say the least...when do you plan on starting the rear?

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93ToyKid · 12-24-2005, 12:43 PM

Yeah the tie rod is awful close, but doesn't touch even under full compression, so its going to work fine. We're probably going to add braces to the shock towers as some others have suggested. Thanks for the compliments! We're sort of looking at doing the rear either while I'm off for spring break, or next summer. That project could easily be done in a weekend, so we may do it earlier, but I don't know.

generalee7 · 12-25-2005, 03:27 PM

I would brace those shock hoops ASAP

Truck looks good!

westy44runner · 12-27-2005, 06:20 AM

good looking rig. clean work....id ditch the shock boots, they will just collect junk in them...

4rnr · 12-29-2005, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93ToyKid

Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)

Nice build I dont have all my parts so mine will take longer, plus im doing the rear. With the d-shaft issue Ive never heard that. Ive got the auto and one case. I was going to run a cv in front but after hearing that im may run a u-joint. Ill have manual hubs so it wont spin on the road anyway, I dont want to limit travel. Am I right or have I missed something?

BTW please tell me youve got body lift on that thing, bc my goal is to stay as low as possible, and you are freaking tall.

93ToyKid · 12-29-2005, 11:44 AM

Yea she has a three inch body lift. As for the driveshaft, we have it working fine now. Ours is the exact same setup as yours is: auto with one transfer and manual hubs. The driveshaft uses the stock CV up top, and a regular U-joint at the bottom. A CV off of an 84 or 85 has more clearance and will work better, but ours seems to be working. It may need some help from the dremel, but it's not going to bind up unless the front end is completely off the ground. It doesn't vibrate in 4WD on the road. Ohe thing that helped is that the axle is moved 1-1/2 inches forward from stock. You can mount the front hanger to run the axle in stock or forward location. Anyway, good luck with your build! The driveshaft is the hardest part...

93ToyKid · 12-29-2005, 11:47 AM

BTW...at one point we had a U-joint at both ends and it provided less clearance than the CV up top. It wouldn't even angle enough for us to get it on! So we had to punt again and put the CV back on. Also, our front axle is shimmed about 1/4", so that helped tremendously without messing up the alignment.

4rnr · 12-29-2005, 01:23 PM

HMM I guess ill just have to throw it togeather and see what happens. I have a noncv front shaft and a cv front shaft off a 97 runner. This is lame I just want a drive shaft to mainly be used for just offroad.

93ToyKid · 12-29-2005, 02:09 PM

I know what you mean. Ours was a real headache. You never know exactly how it will work until you slap it on and then go twisting the front end around. When we had U-joints put on at both ends we were sure it was going to work fine and you couldn't even put it on. Good luck with it!

93ToyKid · 02-05-2006, 08:57 AM

Still have the IFS 3rd with 488s and a true track left if anyone interseted

Toyota dad · 05-19-2006, 04:47 PM

Very Nice Truck-----

12-27-2005, 06:20 AM	#79 (permalink)
westy44runner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 967	good looking rig. clean work....id ditch the shock boots, they will just collect junk in them... __________________ '86 Toy Flatbed with a few modifications

12-29-2005, 01:23 PM	#83 (permalink)
4rnr Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Plainfield, IL Posts: 1,469	HMM I guess ill just have to throw it togeather and see what happens. I have a noncv front shaft and a cv front shaft off a 97 runner. This is lame I just want a drive shaft to mainly be used for just offroad. __________________ poop 1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top. 1990 fj62 stock and mint! 1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system. The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915

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12-24-2005, 12:43 PM	#77 (permalink)
93ToyKid Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State Posts: 387	Yeah the tie rod is awful close, but doesn't touch even under full compression, so its going to work fine. We're probably going to add braces to the shock towers as some others have suggested. Thanks for the compliments! We're sort of looking at doing the rear either while I'm off for spring break, or next summer. That project could easily be done in a weekend, so we may do it earlier, but I don't know.

12-25-2005, 03:27 PM	#78 (permalink)
generalee7 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Dublin, CA Posts: 87	I would brace those shock hoops ASAP Truck looks good!

12-29-2005, 11:44 AM	#81 (permalink)
93ToyKid Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State Posts: 387	Yea she has a three inch body lift. As for the driveshaft, we have it working fine now. Ours is the exact same setup as yours is: auto with one transfer and manual hubs. The driveshaft uses the stock CV up top, and a regular U-joint at the bottom. A CV off of an 84 or 85 has more clearance and will work better, but ours seems to be working. It may need some help from the dremel, but it's not going to bind up unless the front end is completely off the ground. It doesn't vibrate in 4WD on the road. Ohe thing that helped is that the axle is moved 1-1/2 inches forward from stock. You can mount the front hanger to run the axle in stock or forward location. Anyway, good luck with your build! The driveshaft is the hardest part...

12-29-2005, 11:47 AM	#82 (permalink)
93ToyKid Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State Posts: 387	BTW...at one point we had a U-joint at both ends and it provided less clearance than the CV up top. It wouldn't even angle enough for us to get it on! So we had to punt again and put the CV back on. Also, our front axle is shimmed about 1/4", so that helped tremendously without messing up the alignment.

12-29-2005, 02:09 PM	#84 (permalink)
93ToyKid Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State Posts: 387	I know what you mean. Ours was a real headache. You never know exactly how it will work until you slap it on and then go twisting the front end around. When we had U-joints put on at both ends we were sure it was going to work fine and you couldn't even put it on. Good luck with it!

02-05-2006, 08:57 AM	#85 (permalink)
93ToyKid Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: High Point, NC/School at NC State Posts: 387	Still have the IFS 3rd with 488s and a true track left if anyone interseted

05-19-2006, 04:47 PM	#86 (permalink)
Toyota dad Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47	Very Nice Truck-----