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Old 12-15-2005, 07:18 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 934rnr
You probably need a flat pitman arm or a 3/4" less drop arm since your ifs box is in the stock location.
www.sky-manufacturing.com and OTC sells them.


Yep, that is it after looking back at the pics.

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Old 12-16-2005, 03:51 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Old 12-18-2005, 08:26 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Solid axle swap is COMPLETE!!!! All we have to do now is pick up the front drive shaft from the shop tomorrow and bolt it on, then hit some trails!!! Here are some pics of the finished product (wheelin' pics will be up as soon as we go).







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Old 12-18-2005, 08:28 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Looks real good, well done
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Old 12-18-2005, 10:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
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now its time to get rid of those huge lift blocks in the rear!
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:35 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Haha!! I second that. And those ridiculous shackles need to go. We're probably going to get Marlin's kit for the rear, but it'll be a while.
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:28 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Looks good!

IMO, you need to brace those shock hoops something like this:



Brian you need to more your box forward. I see some binding in your future under compression on the driver's side. As much as you like fabricate stuff I'm suprise you haven't moved it up to the body mount and move your front axle forward.
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Old 12-19-2005, 05:23 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Me Like!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLROACH
Brian you need to more your box forward. I see some binding in your future under compression on the driver's side. As much as you like fabricate stuff I'm suprise you haven't moved it up to the body mount and move your front axle forward.
My box is as far forward as it will go w/o hacking into stuff. I've cycled the suspension pretty well last time I was out and had no issues and the front axle has been moved forward 1.5"-2".

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Old 12-19-2005, 05:25 AM   #59 (permalink)
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WOW. you waste no time. I like it
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"Just wheel what you got until it doesn't cut it anymore".
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:01 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLRoach
Brian you need to more your box forward. I see some binding in your future under compression on the driver's side. As much as you like fabricate stuff I'm suprise you haven't moved it up to the body mount and move your front axle forward.
you need to remember, the axle swings in an arc. it moves back when it moves up and will clear the pitman arm. my setup looks very similar, and it clears just fine when compressed
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:33 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Did you go 4" or 5" lift on your SAS kit?
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:00 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Very nice swap. Quick and clean, just the way it should be. Congrats.
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:23 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Very Nice Job!

So where did you wind up mounting the transfer case cooler?
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:34 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Nice truck! Very clean job. That's what my truck wants to be like when it grows up!

On a side note, my truck was black with the same striping until I repainted it. That brings back memories.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:08 AM   #65 (permalink)
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i second the idea of bracing your shock mounts. Because the stick up so high they are really likley to break. Have you decided what your going to do in the rear as far as springs go if you remove the blocks?
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Old 12-19-2005, 11:21 AM   #66 (permalink)
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nice work. turned out great. what brake setup are you using up front?
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:10 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Man, that thing is tall!
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Old 12-19-2005, 05:37 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon047
you need to remember, the axle swings in an arc. it moves back when it moves up and will clear the pitman arm. my setup looks very similar, and it clears just fine when compressed

Need no to remind me how things work on a rear shackle setup...I have the same setup on my 85.
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Old 12-19-2005, 05:41 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Well when I decide to do a SAS, guess who I'm calling. Just kidding, but since you're near by I will probaly end up asking for some help. You did a real clean job, really good looking. Glad everything went well for ya.
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Old 12-19-2005, 06:12 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillbilly
Well when I decide to do a SAS, guess who I'm calling. Just kidding, but since you're near by I will probaly end up asking for some help. You did a real clean job, really good looking. Glad everything went well for ya.
Just remember who to call...his DAD!

Again, looks real nice!

What a great Dad to help! I hope to help my boys SAS a rig of their own someday!

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Old 12-19-2005, 07:39 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Haha...yeah my dad is pretty awesome. Thanks for all the compliments guys, I think it turned out pretty good! As for the tranny cooler...it hasn't really found a permanent home yet. Right now it's just jimmy-rigged up out of the way. But we're working on using some holes that are already in the frame and just modify the bracket. As soon as we figure it out, I'll post pics. The springs up front are 4". The brake setup is just the rotors that came in the kit (Land-Cruiser style vented), and extended brake lines. The stock IFS calipers mount up perfectly to the solid axle, with a little sawzall work on the disc guard. We may have to order the steel brake lines that run from the caliper. Marlin has these. The stock IFS ones have too much length and don't really fit in the brackets like they should. As for the rear, what we really want to do is install the rear lift kit from Marlin. The springs are longer, so the brackets must be cut and moved. That project may be a while, but that's what we have planned.
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)

Last edited by 93ToyKid; 12-19-2005 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:55 PM   #72 (permalink)
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On a side note...to those of you who are considering doing this swap, I say go for it. It sounds intimidating, with cutting on the frame and all, but its really not that bad. You just have to take your time and do it right, because you don't want to fubar your frame! The cutting and grinding are the toughest parts, but that's just because they're really time-consuming. Everything else is pretty straightforward. Having all the parts in one nice kit was a HUGE plus. All the parts in Marlin's kit are extremely top-notch. Plus...working on the solid axle is MUCH easier than working on the IFS. Once you get all the welding and cutting done, everything else pretty much just bolts on. Though we did it from start to finish in just over a week, that was working pretty diligently every day. This was the first thing like this we've done, so we took our time and did it right. If you know how to weld, and you have all the parts there ready, it could probably be done in a weekend. Again...the kit was a big plus. The templates made it very easy to get everything line up right, and the project was alot of fun!
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:25 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Here's my tranny cooler re-mounted, hope it helps
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:38 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93ToyKid
Hah
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
Here is the link http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

I got my IFS driveshaft clearenced and splined by high angle driveline. Jess spent a lot of time on the phone with me, with a single transfer case and the auto he said I had 2 options: A non cv drivshaft that won't bind but will vibrate or a cv driveshaft that won't vibrate but will require a limiting strap to keep it from overextending and binding. I chose the CV because I want to be able to run at freeway speed in 4wd. Beacuase I have a relativly low lift and a high pinion 3rd I don't have any binding issues. You don't read about that on marlin or allpros website. If you have a second case the driveshaft becomes longer, the angle smaller and the problem goes away. Not sure if that helps, I can take a picture of mine if you would like.

Phalanx, did you need to do anything with the hoses to get your cooler there ? Thanks for the pic.
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Last edited by RobG; 12-19-2005 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 12-24-2005, 11:07 AM   #75 (permalink)
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So we went over to our pasture today to see how she flexes.
You can't tell from the pics, but that ditch we are in is very deep. Nothing really challenging, but we got some awesome flex shots, and got to see what she would do
Well...I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves!



The coolest part is how when the suspension is flexed to the max...the body remains level!! MUCH more stable than the IFS




These two shots are when the front suspension was flexed to the max.
Here you can see it at full droop:

And though you can't see it...this side is touching the bumpstop:

Our driveshaft seems to be working okay, as it never bound up during all of this.

Last edited by 93ToyKid; 12-24-2005 at 11:11 AM.
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