Creepycrawler87

Hi all, Im trying to do some research on a long travel build. I love everything about Long travel ifs except for how wide it makes your front end. I have ran IFS hub bodys on my solid axle truck to gain a little over 2 inches in width before, anybody done the opposite? solid axle hubs on a ifs spindle to narrow it up? Im sure they will have to swap to a different rotor or even have one made. just seeing if anyone had tried it...

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

I've never heard of it and I don't think it would work. If you look at your stock IFS front end, take a look at how close the rim and tire are to the upper ball joint and the upper control arm. If you move the rim inwards then you'll probably have issues there. If that ends up being okay, you'll have to worry about brakes. You might be able to use the factory non-vented SFA rotors with the SFA calipers but that would be a step backwards in braking. I would never recommend downgrading brakes.

E-ROC

By installing long travel, and then narrowing your track width, you are working against what you are trying to achieve as far as I see it. The main ingredient to long travel is having your wheels AWAY from the control arm mount (frame) to get your travel. The more you bring your wheel in towards the frame, the less it will travel vertically. Granted you will gain a bit more due to a longer axle shaft, but I don't think it will amount to the status of "long travel" that way. Just my thoughts.

P.S. Maybe get wheels with less offset and learn to like the stance over time.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

His idea won't limit the gains of long travel suspension. The suspension geometry determines travel. Wheels with more backspacing would achieve what he's looking for but once again, the clearance between the rim and the upper control arm makes it so that you can't have more backspacing than stock.

E-ROC

Blazelands L.T. kit doesn't change the geometry. It simply extends the length of the arms to push the wheel further out which results in increased travel.
Like 2 popsicle sticks, one at 3" long, and one at 5" long, both at a 45* angle off the ground. The longer one will go higher.
My point is that the less track width, the less susp. travel with control arms.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

The length of the control arms, or in your case, popsicle sticks, is part of the suspension geometry. If you increase or decrease the wheel backspacing you're not changing the geometry of the suspension. It has no effect on travel.

E-ROC

Ok. I will stop bickering with you so we can keep Yotatech a clean site and stay on point with this thread.












P.S. I don't care what anyone says. Popsicle sticks are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!

SacRunner

I'm right there with you on liking the idea of long travel but not the extra, super wide stance that comes with it (purely for appearance, nothing to do with functionality).

It looks like his pictures are gone, which is a shame, but look at drew02a's build of his 91 4Runner with Blazeland and some Tacoma (I think) rims. With the high backspace and narrow width of the stock rim plus the super narrow 255-85R16 tires, it looks like the wheels/tires only stick out a couple of inches.

Here's his build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...thread-233772/

And here are a couple of pictures I happened to have saved off:

rattlewagon

SA hubs on IFS trucks will push the tire into the upper control arm, unless you run backspaced wheels to push the wheel back out.....but then why?

You would also need to attach new break tabs some how.

BlazeN8

All good points and observations. Rim specifications are the simple way to explore this topic. A narrow rim with deep backspace will minimize track width while a wide rim with shallow backspace will maximize. A 35" tire on a 15x7 w/ 3.75" vs 15x10 w/ 3.25" will be night and day in track width. As for travel numbers they should be the same. The scrub angle will be drastically different as will the feel and handling on the road. Turning radius, bump steer, loads on components, etc. The tire will contact the outer tie rod end, ball joint, and UCA differently depending on the above. A drop Bracket lift will also effect these contact areas.

I have done many mock ups with various size "project tires" and rim combinations. There are so many variables its hard to summarize. A rule of thumb I find that works with Long Arms is if a certain rim and tire works before going to long arms it will work after. If the tire rubs a fender or something before installing long arms won't change. At ride height you may be sitting 3" higher but when the suspension compresses and stuffs the tire into the fender well you will be in a similar fit. Add a drop bracket lift and the same applies.

Creepycrawler87

Thanks for all the replies guys, its was Covered perfectly by SacRunner, Thats the look Im going for. Guess I just need to find some newer 5.5 backspaced rims. the main reason for solid axle hub bodies was so I could continue to run my 3.75 bs rims. But not a big deal to go to a newer style.

96taco4x4

I believe Tim at Wild West Offroad (shop that builds some of the U4 IFS) talked about the SA hubs on IFS many years ago. I dont recall there being any resolution though. If it's possible, I bet there would be some machine work required.

I agree that the easiest/cheapest way to do this would be deeper BS wheels, but I still want to see someone try SA hubs!!