navyredneck

Ok, I'm copying a couple of people on here but I wanted to see if anyone had input on some of the things I'm not sure about. Here are some of the threads I'm using for ideas: the Bandit's rear bumper here: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=106655 http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...rearbumper.htm http://www.extremefabricator.com/BB/viewtopic.php?t=68 I have an 85 pickup that I've been working on in this thread: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=107890 and one of the first things I want to do is a simple rear bumper and I already have a friend who is gonna weld for me in exchange for some free tires. (next will be sliders and spring hangers...) I plan on using this truck for hunting and as a DD so no rock climbing (at least until I move somewhere else). I want it to be simple and easy to make and heavy is not a bad thing as it will help me maintain traction with my rear tires. I want a hitch mount and two shackle points. This thing will be hitting trees and used to pull me out and pull others out. Additional shackle points are for anchoring myself to trees when using my winch to pull others. Here is the design I want to use: -2x4 steel 3/16" thick, cold rolled, slightly shorter than the width of my truck, boxed on ends to prevent rust -cut into the bottom of it to insert the hitch (not sure which size the hitch needs to be or if I can buy that seperately to save fab time) and weld it, also with some bracing from underneath -take 2" by 2" by 1/2" plate cut diagonally for my 2 shackle hangers (maybe that needs to be bigger?) -cut brackets to bolt to my frame out of 1/4", whatever steel will fit into my frame. Will probably mock up something out of cardboard that will fit the bumper close to my truck in spite of the 3" body lift. It needs to withstand a pulling load of 6,000 lbs on the hitch and shackles. Depending on how much of the stock license plate location it covers up, I may have to put a plate mounting spot on the bumper as well which means I'll have to mount a light on it. Thanks for the input.

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

Gerdo

You may want to do a 45* angle on the ends, for aesthetics. Something like this? Except not on a Jeep.

Definitly go with a 2x2 receiver. You can buy receiver tubes from hitch shops, local and internet.

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2000 4Runner Sport, 3.4L, 5 Speed, Custom Front Winch Bumper, Opened intake, K&N Airfilter, BFG A/T LT265/70R16, Bilstein Shocks, FreeFlow Exhaust, Poly Rack Mounts & Swaybar Mounts, Tundra TRDs up front and OME 891s out back. ToyTec Panhard Bar Drop. SS Front Diff Drop. Home-built 2x2 Sliders. ARB rear locker, OBA, CO2 See My 4Runner!

-TheBandit-

You can slide 3"x0.25 C channel into the frame rails. On a pickup, just cut the roll pan behind the frame rails so you can slide the channel directly into the frame. There are already holes in the frame that you can use as bolt-on points for the channel. You can then weld the 2x4 directly to the C-channel.

To recess the receiver into the 2x4, drill four holes at the four corners of the square you want the receiver to slide into. Then use an angle grinder and cut off wheel to connect the holes, therebye making a close-fitting square hole you can slide the receiver tubing into.

Since you want a decent towing capacity, gusset the receiver on the backside of the bumper. You should also run some tubing that connects the back of the receiver to the frame rails.

If you want to make the ends angled like mine are, you can use a cutoff wheel to cut the angles out, then use a torch to heat & beat the material into shape. Next weld the newly joined ends and grind the weld down. Here are some pictures:







For more pictures of my very simple & cheap bumper, go here: http://www.extremefabricator.com/BB/viewtopic.php?t=68

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In theory, practice and theory agree. In practice, they don't.

navyredneck

Thanks a lot Bandit. Already found a place to order some pre-fabbed shackle hangers:

http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/r...y/shackles.htm

$15 each would save me some fabbing...

Probably gonna combine that order with some new synthetic rope for my very old winch.

Oh, and I had already linked to your fab site on extremefabricator without realizing that was you. Awesome link there!

Can you explain this more?

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

navyredneck

My rockstomper shackle hangers ($15 each) arrived and I picked up a 12" receiver blank from Northern tools for $20. As soon as my welding friend is ready to weld we'll be ordering steel from his company (discount $$).



Questions:
If I'm using a 2" by 4" steel bumper made of 3/16" thick steel, how much bracing should come off of the blank behind the bumper? I'm looking to tow up to 6000 lbs (not long distance or anything, just thinking of how much weight I could end up pulling if I hook up another truck to the hitch). If I don't brace it I'll be putting the worst case stress on that bumper bc I'll be pulling straight from the middle. Ideally I'll be pulling someone from the winch while my shackle hangers will be chained to the treesaver which would be attached to the tree. Because of that I'll mount the shackle hangers in line with my frame to reduce stress on the bumper itself. Of course if I'm just pulling myself then I don't have to worry about the rear bumper.

How far should I make the bumper stick out on the sides? I think I'm gonna try the taper idea of Bandits, too. Any pictures of bumper mounts would be really helpfull here. I'll post up the picture of the old hitch bumper I pulled off. Not that I want to use it because it dropped the bumper too low because it didn't compensate for the 3" body lift.

If I use C-channel steel to attach to the frame that means I have to cut into my truck bed which I don't want to do. How should I do the frame supports then? I want the bumper as snug to the bed as possible to reduce my departure angle...

Thanks for any advice/criticism

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

Knuckles

i dont understand anything about welding, but i love custom bumpers.

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97 Limited 4Runner

navyredneck

haha, neither do I. That's why I traded some tires for the welding skills of my friend.

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

bruzer1123

If you have access to a torch, you can trace the reciever onto the bumper and torch it from either side...touch it up with an angle grinder, ensure that it is level and even and tack it in place. I did a taper on the ends of my bumper (same steel you are using) but did less than Bandit did. I ended up cutting it on a bandsaw and then taking 2" flat stock, tacking it, heating it and welded it as a cap to the ends. Not sure if that makes sense. On my truck, I did exactly as Bandit said, and cut the bottom sheet metal off to get a straight shot from the frame to the bumper...increased my departure angle. I used 1/4" flat stock that slid inside the frame and used the existing bolt holes (4 bolts total). I also used flat stock to gusset the brackets. For the reciever, I torched it out, mounted it relatively flush and welded it on the front and backside...added a plate with holes for safety chains and called it good. If you would like I can email you pics of my bumper and the brackets-just tell me where to send them.

navyredneck

Sounds like you and me are talking about the exact same bumper design!! PM sent for additional pictures!

I really hated to cut into the sheet metal of my truck bed but if it really has to be done...

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

Gerdo

I would do as much cutting with a cut off saw, partial cuts into the bottom the depth of the hitch. Also use the angle grinder, with cut off blades. The cleaner the cuts the less to clean-up.

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2000 4Runner Sport, 3.4L, 5 Speed, Custom Front Winch Bumper, Opened intake, K&N Airfilter, BFG A/T LT265/70R16, Bilstein Shocks, FreeFlow Exhaust, Poly Rack Mounts & Swaybar Mounts, Tundra TRDs up front and OME 891s out back. ToyTec Panhard Bar Drop. SS Front Diff Drop. Home-built 2x2 Sliders. ARB rear locker, OBA, CO2 See My 4Runner!

bruzer1123

Any progress on this?

navyredneck

No, still tweaking the carb to get it to run well... I'm also waiting on air conditioning parts to arrive. USPS is taking their time delivering my stuff. 4 day estimate online is now 9 working days and still no sign of the package. Current plan is to get carb adjusted and a/c charged with R-134a at the same time, then reinstall my front grill, and then get the bumper welded at the same time as my front warn brushguard that needs some spot welds. I never truly understood why critical path is such a painful thing before in maintenance...

I have another friend who has plenty of scrap steel for me to use. Of course, he's also telling me to not cut into the bumper to mount the receiver as it will weaken the bumper. He was a professional welder for many, many years so I can't really discredit him either. Any opinions on this?

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

bruzer1123

I am not a pro welder by anymeans...I suppose it would cut down on the strength of the steel, but I really don't know. Mine is welded completey around on the front and completely on the back plus the gussett with the chain holes is completely welded on all sides to the bumper and to the receiver. Did you check out Sonoran steel's bumper...it is similar to the one you want I think, and Steve isn't the type of guy to cut corners. Also, I based mine on Rob (WATRDs) bumper who is huge into safety.

Sonoran Steel bumpers: http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_custom_bumpers.html (scroll down to see the 1989-1995 bumper)

navyredneck

After many, many months I've finally acquired all the steel to do this:





My welder is hoping to get this done at the end of the month.

The brackets came free off of a 1987 toyota pickup with a damaged rear bumper. They bolt up perfectly and are 1/4" steel. My plan is to bolt them up and then do cuts and welding to 'bend' them back to about 1/2" below my bed, and then weld them to the 3" by 3" steel stock you see.

I found the 3x3 at a steel salvage yard. It's 1/8" steel as I'm trying to conserve weight and I have an experienced welder telling me to go that thin so the bumper gets damaged instead of my frame if I get rear ended. I turned in 140 lbs of scrap metal and then walked out with the steel stock and only paid $1.36.

My plan is to rig the brackets then weld the bumper onto the brackets. Then cap the end of the 3x3 and weld on my shackles, as close to the axis of the frame. So far I'm also being told not to weld in a receiver hitch as that would also weaken the bumper. I have the receiver but still not sure about whether to use it or not. Realistically I'm not doing any towing with this truck anyway.

Last I've got to install a license plate bracket and lights as I think the stock location will be hid.

I've also got to find a way to use those shackles to connect to a tow rope or tree saver or whatever. Any ideas on this?

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

navyredneck

(I cut and pasted this from my build link in the 84-85 toyota pickup section.)

It took us about 4 hours to get all of this done. My buddy never went to welding school. He just bought a welder and started. I think it looks awesome!

I started with this some months ago:


The 3/16" steel came from a scrapyard which cost me 6 bucks (or whatever it is above) after I turned in some scrap. The brackets came free from a friend's junkyard. They came off a 2wd 87 toyota truck. I also took the bolts that went with the brackets

First I created a carboard template of the bracket and then did a Z cut on the bracket to shorten it how I wanted on the template. Then I transfered the template to the bracket and started cutting and welding:


My buddy saw some offroad truck show where they showed that the Z cut would be stronger. And yes, the brackets are on the outside of the frame because I couldn't fit it inside the way I wanted.

Then we cut and welded 1/4" steel plate on the other side to strengthen it up.


Next I took the piece we cut out of the middle and sheared both ends. Then I mated it up next to the end of the new bracket and drilled through both ends to reuse the bolts I pulled off of the junkyard yota.

Next we cut along the bottom of the bumper to install the hitch flat with the bottom of the bumper and then welded it in. I think the hitch was $24 from a local store. No, I do not plan on any serious towing with this hitch. It's there for someone to hit me and take the force of the impact in case of an accident. Hopefully it will save the rear axle and most of the bed.



Next we welded the D-rings on that came courtesy of www.rockstomper.com. They cost $15 per which brings my cost to $60.

Then I parked the truck on near level ground and put a level on the frame and then transferred that same level to the bumper which I held while my friend tack-welded the brackets to the bumper.

Next we tack-welded some 1/8" steel as caps, ground down the edges, and then welded it in and finished the welds on the brackets. The 1/8" steel was from some scrap that my buddy had.

Finished bumper (with some grinding and painting left to go)




I decided to go with bolting the brackets onto the bumper so I wouldn't have to weld up everything when I change my BL which I will probably do if I change my spring height. Now I'll only have to weld new brackets and then transfer the whole bumper to the new brackets. Not bad for $60 and a few hours spent welding and grinding.

Look at this shot:


My bed is leaning. What are the chances that this is due to a failing left, rear spring? (another reason I had to get the bumper level with the frame and not with the ground)

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

navyredneck

I originally thought the steel was 1/8" but after we measured it with a caliper we figured it was 3/16". Big difference but I eyeballed it the last time. I know this bumper is heavy now! Also, I decided not to do a taper based on our limited fab skills. Next time I'll do the taper.

Thanks all for the ideas and guidance!

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

tortis

you need to paint it safety yellow. looks good and stout.

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89 Truck X-tra Cab
LCE Timing Chain
31'' Maxxis Buckshot
4.88's built by ZUK(the mind reader)
Aussie Locker Front and Rear
63'' Chevy Springs
Marlin HD Clutch
Bilstein HD Shocks
2.5" Exhaust W/Dynomax Muffler
2-50 Watt Backup Lights

bruzer1123

Looks good-the only regret I have with my bumper is that the shackle mounts were "custom made" and are not as beefy as the rockstomper ones. In the future, I might purchase the shackle mounts that extend all the way through the bumper-so they can be welded on the front and the back. Anyway-nice work! Any plans for a front bumper?

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1993 Pickup 22RE 4x4 5 spd.
Mods: Engnbldr Street RV Head with 261 C, Trueflow air filter, custom rear bumper, roof rack, 2.25 exhaust from cat back, Thrush muffler, Rancho 5000 shocks, tiny MTRs
Future Mods: Diff breathers. Rear locker? Winch? OBA? Flatbed?

navyredneck

Currently I have a warn tube bumper with integrated winch cradle. Eventually, yes I would love to make one. The problem is that I have about 6 projects for this truck ahead of the front bumper idea.

That said, I'm already thinking of visiting the scrap yard to pick up some more steel...

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1985 pickup std cab 4wd rebuilt 2.4L 22r by Oregon Engine Rebuilders, RV cam, oversize valves, Weber 34 DGEC, 8k on engine,5 speed, OME shocks N93/N85 front/rear, rear diff breather, Durabak interior, Summit proportioning valve, SR5 cluster mod, 3" RB body lift, warn winch brushguard with harbor freight winch, custom rear bumper, FROR floating rear axle with pickup disc brakes all around

waterdog

nice welding

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dont make me flex

LIYOTA

Bumper looks really good. Seems sturdy as S#!t. Exactly what im looking to replace my stock bumper with. Nice pictures.