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Rear Lockout Hubs???

Old 09-18-2005, 12:22 PM
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Rear Lockout Hubs???

Has anyone ever had lockout hubs on thier rear axle??

If so... what all has to be changed???? Anyone have a write up??? Any pics??? Part requirements???


thanks
Old 09-18-2005, 12:35 PM
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i'm not quite sure thats possible, and why would you want to. If the rears unlocked you wouldn't go anywhere unless you put in in 4 and drove around with front wheel drive.
Old 09-18-2005, 12:40 PM
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exactly my point... if i want to tow my truck i don't want to be able to unlock the rear...
Old 09-18-2005, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by surelly09
exactly my point... if i want to tow my truck i don't want to be able to unlock the rear...
unbolt the driveshaft, I know thats what tow truck drivers do
Old 09-18-2005, 01:17 PM
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i suppose that a possibility.. but it would be easier to just turn the hubs...
Old 09-18-2005, 02:00 PM
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I think it is possible. Jeepers have a full floater kit for the dana 44, but I don't know if anyone has ever done one for a toyota axle.
Old 09-18-2005, 02:31 PM
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http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/floater.htm
There you go.
Old 09-18-2005, 03:48 PM
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Have patience, and I'll have pics and some write up info on the FrontRange Full Floater kit on my website. I just ordered thier Full Floater with the Supra rear disc brakes.

I should have them on in a couple weeks....

However, I have opted to use FROR's flange, instead of a manual hub. I have a manual hub as a spare, but the flange they have as an option is stronger.

regardless, I'll have info on this setup pretty soon.
Old 09-19-2005, 07:06 AM
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they have a link to a write up and pics by some magazine. its pretty nice stuff.
Old 09-19-2005, 07:27 AM
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thats pretty expensive......not to mention all those supplementary parts.
Old 09-19-2005, 07:31 AM
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Yeah, its pretty pricey. That price doesn't even include the calipers, bearings, gaskets, spindles, hubs. I'll have a price sheet when i get mine done.

BUT, this is a small price to pay so your wheel doesn't fall off. When I pulled my drum and shaft off, I was surprised to see how much play had developed in the bearings. I have 68k miles on the 4Runner, and the wheels looked like there were about to fall off.

Being that I load up my rig pretty heavy, I would rather pay now, and have peace of mind, than pay later when my wheel passes me on the highway because the bearing failed and let loose of the drum and wheel.
Old 09-19-2005, 07:46 AM
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how do you test the play in the bearing? take the drum off the housing and see if it moves? when i replaced my axle seal, i didn't recall any play around the drum or axle shaft. I suppose it takes a bit of abuse to damage it?
Old 09-19-2005, 08:05 AM
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I first noticed that I had play in the bearing as I was following my wife home. She was driving the 4Runner home from some event, and I noticed that the left rear wheel appeared to be wobbeling, not too much, but enough to notice.

Later when I pulled the drum and shaft off, It was very evident that the bearing was loose. I put the drum down on the floor with the shaft sticking up in the air. In this position, I could move the drum up and down while the shaft stayed still.

This translates into a bearing that is on its last bearing with others in hot pursuit. If you think about it, this stuff is all pressed together. When you are on the trail, and you have several thousand pounds of side-loading on the bearings, they are going to loosen up. I have weighed my rig in the past, and I have tipped the scales at 5200lbs. Thats a lot of weight that the "pressed" on parts are having to support. The type of rock crawling that we generally do puts a serious load on the tires, bearings and pressed in parts. Brain and FROR has seen these units fail. Since I'm trying to build a hybrid (expedition/rockcrawling) rig, I want to ensure that I have redundancy built in. Should an axle break, I can pull the alxe, and still drive home on the good axle, or the front axles. I may be going slow, but I'll get home.

Last edited by SteveO; 09-19-2005 at 08:06 AM.
Old 09-20-2005, 10:37 AM
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The other good thing about hubs on all 4 is certain muddy sidehill applications. Unlock the "downhill" side and this will keep the downhill side from pulling you downhill. it sounds crazy but it works!
Old 09-20-2005, 10:45 AM
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only if you have a locker....
Old 09-20-2005, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
only if you have a locker....

not necessarily true. Torque is supplied to the wheel with the least amount of traction. If the wheel on the bottom side of the slope had more traction then the top side, then that wheel would get the torque.

With the locker engage, and the rear hub unlocked that the wheel on the bottom side of the slope, torque will go to the top side wheel, keeping your line a little more straight.

If no locker was available, a turning break would work pretty nice....
Old 09-20-2005, 10:26 PM
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But if you unlock either side without a locker, the unlock side has 0 traction which is less than the otehr wheel and therefore the truck will nto move.
Old 09-20-2005, 11:30 PM
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I really like the idea of what the full floater does.....looks like it may be years until I get to htat point tho....unlelss i break something, breaking stuff usually results in me splurging on a mod that I would have otherwise waited to do.
Old 09-21-2005, 05:39 AM
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Thats why I'm doing it now. I have broken so many things on this rig......
Old 09-21-2005, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
only if you have a locker....

or if the diff is welded

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