OBA using your A/C Compressor and an air tank.
09-04-2011, 08:52 PM
#61
Contributing Member
BAHAHAH!!! Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa? 
I almost did a writeup on my steering gearbox rebuild...or my elocker install/overhaul build...OR......I'm still working on my rear bumper build........how about a rebuild power steering pump write up(thats next)? 
DUUUUUUUDE! Me tooooo, tired of paying for it or dealing with slow electric compressors.....Having the tank makes the difference for sure.
I almost did a writeup on my steering gearbox rebuild...or my elocker install/overhaul build...OR......I'm still working on my rear bumper build........how about a rebuild power steering pump write up(thats next)? DUUUUUUUDE! Me tooooo, tired of paying for it or dealing with slow electric compressors.....Having the tank makes the difference for sure.
again nice job on the OBA.
09-04-2011, 08:58 PM
#62
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Thank man!
all right, all right...I still have all the pics from when I did the rebuild of my steering box. Actually, I just rebuilt one today for a buddy's histeer conversion. I think I did it right anyways....hehehe
all right, all right...I still have all the pics from when I did the rebuild of my steering box. Actually, I just rebuilt one today
for a buddy's histeer conversion. I think I did it right anyways....hehehe
09-13-2011, 07:02 AM
#66
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Well, the pressure switch is WAAAAAAAY beefier than I needed. It's supposed to be used right at the motor power feed. It came with 8 or 10 gauge wire leads...
So, I'll basically cut those down and use some spade connectors or might just use a weatherpack connector.
Its a Vacuum Switching Valve. Basically a solenoid yes, it controls the idle speed when the AC is engaged by allowing intake air around the TB.
So, I'll basically cut those down and use some spade connectors or might just use a weatherpack connector.Its a Vacuum Switching Valve. Basically a solenoid yes, it controls the idle speed when the AC is engaged by allowing intake air around the TB.
09-16-2011, 07:18 AM
#70
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Update, 16SEP11
Well, I finally replaced the VSV only to find out that the system STILL wouldn't idle up. 
I double checked the old VSV which was internally bad. I operationally checked the new VSV and it clicked open to port air like it's supposed to. So, I tore the glovebox out and trouble shot the wiring from the A/C amplifier(which controls the RPM that the clutch gets disconnected).
There is two wires that go to the VSV. One is a 12v power and one is the ground. BOTH wires start/return to the amplifier. Using my wiring diagram I determined which wire from the amplifier was the ground and basically jumpered the ground wire from the VSV to that. Viola!!!!!! Idle up!!!! I then adjusted the airvalve on the upper intake to the RPM I wanted for running the A/C compressor.
Basically, the amplifier is shot obviously not allowing the ground circut to go from the VSV through the amplifier to, well, ground. I simply pulled those two pins and ran a jumper wire, replaced the pins back into the plug and ultimately bypassed the amplifier FOR GROUND.
Next up: replacing my 85-105psi pressure switch to a 90-125psi pressure switch and rerouting airlines to put the water serperator on the output line of the tank.
I double checked the old VSV which was internally bad. I operationally checked the new VSV and it clicked open to port air like it's supposed to. So, I tore the glovebox out and trouble shot the wiring from the A/C amplifier(which controls the RPM that the clutch gets disconnected). There is two wires that go to the VSV. One is a 12v power and one is the ground. BOTH wires start/return to the amplifier. Using my wiring diagram I determined which wire from the amplifier was the ground and basically jumpered the ground wire from the VSV to that. Viola!!!!!! Idle up!!!! I then adjusted the airvalve on the upper intake to the RPM I wanted for running the A/C compressor.
Basically, the amplifier is shot obviously not allowing the ground circut to go from the VSV through the amplifier to, well, ground.
I simply pulled those two pins and ran a jumper wire, replaced the pins back into the plug and ultimately bypassed the amplifier FOR GROUND.Next up: replacing my 85-105psi pressure switch to a 90-125psi pressure switch and rerouting airlines to put the water serperator on the output line of the tank.
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-30-2011 at 01:26 PM.
09-18-2011, 07:44 PM
#75
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Update, 18SEP11
Ok, well did some tinkering today.
Replaced the pressure switch, rerouted airlines and installed two new weatherpack connectors.
I also tried to moved the check valve but eventually put it back in it's original spot. I wanted to try and get pressure to hold through the compressor to reduce startup lag but the check valve provides to much restriction on the intake side. Oh, well.
After moving the air lines around so that the water separator was on the output side of the airtank, I notice a good flow of dry air. Ultimately, being at the end of the day on the trail where it's hot and the tank is constantly cycling will really tell the tale.
Lastly, I'll need to upgrade to a higher rated pop off valve. I forgot that it pop's at 125psi, IIRC. Well, the first time it popped I was bleeding the water separator and PSSSSSSSH!!!! Holy hell I peed a little on that one...lolz. The pressure switch shuts off at 120psi but I noticed that, according to the gauge, the tank was charging to 125psi+!!! So, pop went the weasel...or whistle...valve...
LIGHTBULB: Now that I know the inner workings of the A/C amplifier, I could actually tie the VSV in to the pressure switch. That way the motor wouldn't always be idling high, just when needed....thoughts??
Replaced the pressure switch, rerouted airlines and installed two new weatherpack connectors.
I also tried to moved the check valve but eventually put it back in it's original spot. I wanted to try and get pressure to hold through the compressor to reduce startup lag but the check valve provides to much restriction on the intake side. Oh, well.
After moving the air lines around so that the water separator was on the output side of the airtank, I notice a good flow of dry air. Ultimately, being at the end of the day on the trail where it's hot and the tank is constantly cycling will really tell the tale.
Lastly, I'll need to upgrade to a higher rated pop off valve. I forgot that it pop's at 125psi, IIRC. Well, the first time it popped I was bleeding the water separator and PSSSSSSSH!!!! Holy hell I peed a little on that one...lolz. The pressure switch shuts off at 120psi but I noticed that, according to the gauge, the tank was charging to 125psi+!!! So, pop went the weasel...or whistle...valve...
LIGHTBULB: Now that I know the inner workings of the A/C amplifier, I could actually tie the VSV in to the pressure switch. That way the motor wouldn't always be idling high, just when needed....thoughts??
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-30-2011 at 01:25 PM.
09-21-2011, 08:00 AM
#77
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Update, 21SEP11
All right then. I'll see if I can wire it up to work that way.
I installed a new 150psi (i think
) pop off valve. Can't wait to go wheelin
Off to go air up the wifes cars tires....
I installed a new 150psi (i think
) pop off valve. Can't wait to go wheelin Off to go air up the wifes cars tires....
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-30-2011 at 01:24 PM.
09-30-2011, 01:23 PM
#80
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Update, 30SEP11
Ran the system through and topped off all 10 tires of the wifes vehicles.
I will have to put a regulator on the tire inflator gauge. "90 PSI MAX..." oooops....
I will have to put a regulator on the tire inflator gauge. "90 PSI MAX..." oooops....
