Flatbed costs. How much?? pics

toyospearo · 05-18-2009, 01:55 PM

What is a reasonable price to pay to have a flat bed done like the one below minus the roll bar?

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TOYOTA 1 · 05-18-2009, 02:02 PM

thats a pretty nice one, and metal is expensive. i spent 250 on just metal for my front bumper, and over 200 for the rear.

rough guestimate id say 500-800. but thats just a guess.

gilby4runner · 05-18-2009, 02:51 PM

Have you looked into the Allpro kit?
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupt...ckupflatbedkit

netwt12 · 05-18-2009, 03:37 PM

building it yourself or paying someone to do it?

**DeathCougar** · 05-18-2009, 03:41 PM

You would likely be paying over $5-800 to pay someone to do a custom flatbed, materials included. I paid $300 PLUS materials for a cage in my race car. It used roughly 80ft of 1.5" .095 HREW tubing. And a buddy did it since he still owed me money.

toyospearo · 05-18-2009, 04:55 PM

I was planning on having a local fab guy do it here. If I had a pipe bender that would be different conversation...but I don't.
Thanks guys!

drew303 · 05-18-2009, 05:13 PM

well, you obviously were checkn the pirate flatbed thread. =) That particular truck's bed is the inspiration of the design I have for the one i'm gonna build hopefully this summer.

A lot of folks, most folks on the "internet" all share the same opinion that pipe is for poop. I disagree and have done lots of reading and research into why. And know folks who have used pipe over HREW for certain applications.

Pipe is cheap. You can bend pipe with a harbor freight bender. It's still strong. It doesn't dent like HREW or DOM does. It's better than sheet metal for protection.

It's a great option to use for a flatbed. You might not want it for your 'rollcage' or bar. But even still it's better than NOTHING. I'm going to be using pipe on my flat bed and as the roll-bar of my own design.

I suggest going and reading up on how pipe is used and find some locals who've used it on their buggies and trucks.

the HREW vs DOM argument is a joke IMO. It's internet hype out the butt. Go find someone who's pipe, HREW or DOM designs failed in some way. I've yet to find anyone who's system failed due to the metal used, only to their own bad designs and/or bad welding.

slacker · 05-18-2009, 06:29 PM

I suggest an original bed or replica ...

I Personally do not like ANY flat beds I have seen .. just not for me .. I wouldnt want one myself .

I run a topper/Canopy on my bed .. and use the bed all the time .. I guess it just comes down to what you need and want .

.

Plumbrbob · 05-18-2009, 07:31 PM

my flat bed is made out of pipe and is bent with a harbor frieght bender, i have taken many very hard hits including flopping on it and it holds up. only one real dent in the pipe.

i ditched my bed after i dented it so much i was embarressed to sport my sheet metal trophy

i would not suggest pipe for roll protection or sliders

Plumbrbob · 05-18-2009, 07:37 PM

oh yea cost me around $300 to make including the bender but i am cheap .... got remnants from the steel yard, poop pipe, and re-used stuff laying around to make brackets like this shackle bracket LOL

it just happen to work out good for getting started

**waskillywabbit** · 05-18-2009, 07:40 PM

That is a 1st class job. Materials alone would be $350+ depending on steel pricing and whether or not your went with the sheet steel or used some diamond plate bling bling.

I'd say $750 to $1000 range for the whole thing, as details cost money.

Plumbrbob · 05-18-2009, 07:42 PM

keep the original bed design if you still street drive it that woudl be good you can build tube armor intergrated with it somehow.

I fall into a special vehical catagory now that makes my vehical not street legal!
but I only get busted on the way to certian trail parks and have been warned many times about losing my license plate

toyospearo · 05-18-2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drew303

well, you obviously were checkn the pirate flatbed thread. =) That particular truck's bed is the inspiration of the design I have for the one i'm gonna build hopefully this summer.

Actually no, I wasn't checkn the Pirate thread. Those photos were sent to me by Jeff at Badland Bumpers. Same guy I got my bumper from. It is to much to have a flatbed from him shipped here.

toyospearo · 05-18-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drew303

well, you obviously were checkn the pirate flatbed thread. =) That particular truck's bed is the inspiration of the design I have for the one i'm gonna build hopefully this summer.

A lot of folks, most folks on the "internet" all share the same opinion that pipe is for poop. I disagree and have done lots of reading and research into why. And know folks who have used pipe over HREW for certain applications.

Pipe is cheap. You can bend pipe with a harbor freight bender. It's still strong. It doesn't dent like HREW or DOM does. It's better than sheet metal for protection.

It's a great option to use for a flatbed. You might not want it for your 'rollcage' or bar. But even still it's better than NOTHING. I'm going to be using pipe on my flat bed and as the roll-bar of my own design.

I suggest going and reading up on how pipe is used and find some locals who've used it on their buggies and trucks.

the HREW vs DOM argument is a joke IMO. It's internet hype out the butt. Go find someone who's pipe, HREW or DOM designs failed in some way. I've yet to find anyone who's system failed due to the metal used, only to their own bad designs and/or bad welding.

That is great info!! I appreciate that!

toyospearo · 05-18-2009, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plumbrbob

That is a nice truck!!
That flat bed looks great!

05-18-2009, 03:37 PM	#4 (permalink)
netwt12 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Auburn,Al Posts: 518	building it yourself or paying someone to do it? __________________ 1985 X-cab pickup. stock 1988 Trail Truck. SAS, Dual Cases, FROR Twin stick, 30 Spline Longs & IFS Hub Gears, Exoed, Aluminum Trail-Ready Beadlocks, 37" Boggers, and Extreme Rock Rash. 2008 Camry LE.

05-18-2009, 04:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
toyospearo Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: way way nor cal Posts: 1,579	I was planning on having a local fab guy do it here. If I had a pipe bender that would be different conversation...but I don't. Thanks guys! __________________ 94 Ext. cab 22re Aussied, 4.88's, SAS,ed, FLATBED, Old Man Emu rear leafs w/TG 5.5" shackles, TG sliders, LC Header, Marlin super HD clutch, 32's- Swamper TSL's- RC rims, Badland Bumper, lifted, lighted, LED'ed, Warned, alternatored (LC High ouput), Hammed, gusseted, trussed, etc, etc... My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/great-w...ck-sas-164531/ My Flatbed build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f88/toyospea...-build-191787/

05-18-2009, 05:13 PM	#7 (permalink)
drew303 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Olympia, WA Posts: 2,032	well, you obviously were checkn the pirate flatbed thread. =) That particular truck's bed is the inspiration of the design I have for the one i'm gonna build hopefully this summer. A lot of folks, most folks on the "internet" all share the same opinion that pipe is for poop. I disagree and have done lots of reading and research into why. And know folks who have used pipe over HREW for certain applications. Pipe is cheap. You can bend pipe with a harbor freight bender. It's still strong. It doesn't dent like HREW or DOM does. It's better than sheet metal for protection. It's a great option to use for a flatbed. You might not want it for your 'rollcage' or bar. But even still it's better than NOTHING. I'm going to be using pipe on my flat bed and as the roll-bar of my own design. I suggest going and reading up on how pipe is used and find some locals who've used it on their buggies and trucks. the HREW vs DOM argument is a joke IMO. It's internet hype out the butt. Go find someone who's pipe, HREW or DOM designs failed in some way. I've yet to find anyone who's system failed due to the metal used, only to their own bad designs and/or bad welding. __________________ 1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

05-18-2009, 06:29 PM	#8 (permalink)
slacker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 2,114	I suggest an original bed or replica ... I Personally do not like ANY flat beds I have seen .. just not for me .. I wouldnt want one myself . I run a topper/Canopy on my bed .. and use the bed all the time .. I guess it just comes down to what you need and want . . __________________ 86 4x4 , fiberglass bed , 1/2 doors , hood ... more to come . 84 2WD "hotrod" Intercooled 7MGTE 83 Trekker SR5 CURRENT BUILD My home page MY PAGE 2WD fourm I frequent NEW Trekker forum

05-18-2009, 07:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
Plumbrbob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Tacoma, Washington Posts: 925	my flat bed is made out of pipe and is bent with a harbor frieght bender, i have taken many very hard hits including flopping on it and it holds up. only one real dent in the pipe. i ditched my bed after i dented it so much i was embarressed to sport my sheet metal trophy i would not suggest pipe for roll protection or sliders __________________ 79 YotA ThinG Mods: http://www.yotatech.com/blogs/plumbr...list-mods.html

05-18-2009, 07:37 PM	#10 (permalink)
Plumbrbob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Tacoma, Washington Posts: 925	oh yea cost me around $300 to make including the bender but i am cheap .... got remnants from the steel yard, poop pipe, and re-used stuff laying around to make brackets like this shackle bracket LOL it just happen to work out good for getting started __________________ 79 YotA ThinG Mods: http://www.yotatech.com/blogs/plumbr...list-mods.html

05-18-2009, 07:40 PM	#11 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	That is a 1st class job. Materials alone would be $350+ depending on steel pricing and whether or not your went with the sheet steel or used some diamond plate bling bling. I'd say $750 to $1000 range for the whole thing, as details cost money. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

05-18-2009, 07:42 PM	#12 (permalink)
Plumbrbob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Tacoma, Washington Posts: 925	keep the original bed design if you still street drive it that woudl be good you can build tube armor intergrated with it somehow. I fall into a special vehical catagory now that makes my vehical not street legal! but I only get busted on the way to certian trail parks and have been warned many times about losing my license plate __________________ 79 YotA ThinG Mods: http://www.yotatech.com/blogs/plumbr...list-mods.html

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