Dana 44 ?'s - Page 2

amusement · 02-05-2004, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 44Runner
joez went pretty light on you. I'm not sure if anything in this post is right. ... I could go on and on...

The info was a near qoute of what is written in
"Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser" by Moses Ludel
pages 330-331.

If the info in the book is not correct then I would like to know.

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44Runner · 02-05-2004, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by amusement
The info was a near qoute of what is written in
"Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser" by Moses Ludel
pages 330-331.

If the info in the book is not correct then I would like to know.

not sure why any of that info would be in a book about Toyotas but yes, the majority of what you posted is incorrect...

joez · 02-05-2004, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 44Runner
joez went pretty light on you.

Yup, but i know that this isnt pirate and and there is a lot of missinformation floating arround out there. How it got published i will never know. amusement, any chance you could scan pages? My library doesnt have that book.

Anywho, back on topic, Robinhood is correct, lockers will get you a lot further than flex alone. If you definately plan on a SAS in the future, spend the money on a quality rear locker, and then either get a used 3rd member for the front, or something like a lockwrong. If you spend $900 on a front locker only to SAS in 6 months, you are pretty much throwing your money down the drain. If you plan on keeping the IFS for a while, then invest in something a little better.

ozzfan1JC · 02-06-2004, 02:35 PM

I was wondering about that. See, I have just graduated from a 2wd Taco to this..... 4WD's are not my area of expertise. My brother's Taco has open diff's. One main reason I wanted to SAS my runner....I love flex.....I love to crawl.... But I might just take the advice and lock-up quick... I don't really have the money now for ARB's, so what kind of locker's would you recommend? Front and rear? My truck is 5-speed, so I think that helps with the offroading. I was actually thinking of the 4.7 transfer gears, but I need help elsewhere first. Maybe the lockers are my route out... Thanx a bunch for the info....

Josh

upndair · 02-06-2004, 02:42 PM

Where to start is one of the most challenging questions. My answer says that you also have to look at where you want to finish. Tires, Gears and lockers tend to be the typical first place to go. Base your gear choice on the FINAL tire size you plan to go to. With your rig, 5.29 gears is probably optimal if you plan on going 35s or larger. You can do lock-rites fairly inexpensively and they'll work even when you change gears. They are a cheap locker, but most guys like them. They're a little weak for the larger tires...

Good aggressive tires, lock-rites and then gears. The dual t-case is an amazing option, but you're getting into some serious bucks by that point.

44Runner · 02-06-2004, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ozzfan1JC
I was wondering about that. See, I have just graduated from a 2wd Taco to this..... 4WD's are not my area of expertise. My brother's Taco has open diff's. One main reason I wanted to SAS my runner....I love flex.....I love to crawl.... But I might just take the advice and lock-up quick... I don't really have the money now for ARB's, so what kind of locker's would you recommend? Front and rear? My truck is 5-speed, so I think that helps with the offroading. I was actually thinking of the 4.7 transfer gears, but I need help elsewhere first. Maybe the lockers are my route out... Thanx a bunch for the info....

Josh

the 4.7 t-case gears are not an option for you...

then I echo what everyone else is saying...

Robinhood150 · 02-07-2004, 08:44 PM

Standard operating procedure for 3rd gens is to lift ~2-3inches with spacers $, OME suspension lift $$, or sway a away suspension lift $$$$, and throw on 33in tires and rock sliders. At this point you'll be just as capable as the tacoma.

Now, you have decide if you want to lock front and rear, or just rear. Do your research on selectable lockers Vs auto lockers, auto lockers have some quirks (especially in the front). Keep in mind it's not absolutely necessary to regear with 33s, it's still driveable.

I think you'll be surprized at what you can do with just a rear locker. You can get dual transfer cases once you learn the limits of your truck.

data · 02-08-2004, 07:39 AM

ozzfan1JC, all I have to say is....

http://www.marlincrawler.com/

ozzfan1JC · 02-08-2004, 02:50 PM

Well first lemme say my mods. I first installed a revtek spacer lift in the front, and OME lift coils in the back. Now my problem is wanting to keep my front-end from turning all the time, but that's another issue. I have new model Tundra wheels, and 285/75R16 Remington Mud Brutes as rolling stock. No scrubbing until almost full flex in the rear, with no sway-bar. I am looking into lockers now. If any more advice.......just say.... Thanx people....Keep the info coming....

Firefyter-Emt · 02-10-2004, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by data
ozzfan1JC, all I have to say is....

http://www.marlincrawler.com/

I want one of these..
That would be pretty cool, and I "fake" low 2wd with my hubs unlocked all the time.. be nice to really have it!

Mad Chemist · 02-13-2004, 03:23 PM

I find myself posting this about once every couple of weeks.....

I keep seeing posts by people wanting to build a competent offroad vehicle, and automatically assume that they need a solid axle up front. They decide this without ever really exploring the ability of their IFS vehicle. Why spend all the time and money to do a SAS, and realize that you'd be just as happy with a rear locker? If you've got the money and know-how or know-who (someone thats going to help you), go for it. However, this is what I'd suggest. Spend a little bit of money and throw a locker in the rear of your vehicle. This is something you'd likely do anyways even if you did a SAS. From my (limited) experience, the times I've seen people not be able to get through particular obstacles has been due to 1) lack of traction (get a locker) and 2) not enough ground clearance (get a lift). Wheel with a locker in the rear for 6 months, and if you're still aching for better articulation and are getting left in the dust by your friends, go nuts and get a SAS. I'm all for making incremental changes and building up your skills in the process, instead of going on one or two runs and deciding that you have to have a tubed out buggy to have any fun offroading.

WATRD · 02-13-2004, 03:28 PM

upndair · 02-13-2004, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mad Chemist
I find myself posting this about once every couple of weeks.....

I keep seeing posts by people wanting to build a competent offroad vehicle, and automatically assume that they need a solid axle up front. They decide this without ever really exploring the ability of their IFS vehicle. Why spend all the time and money to do a SAS, and realize that you'd be just as happy with a rear locker? If you've got the money and know-how or know-who (someone thats going to help you), go for it. However, this is what I'd suggest. Spend a little bit of money and throw a locker in the rear of your vehicle. This is something you'd likely do anyways even if you did a SAS. From my (limited) experience, the times I've seen people not be able to get through particular obstacles has been due to 1) lack of traction (get a locker) and 2) not enough ground clearance (get a lift). Wheel with a locker in the rear for 6 months, and if you're still aching for better articulation and are getting left in the dust by your friends, go nuts and get a SAS. I'm all for making incremental changes and building up your skills in the process, instead of going on one or two runs and deciding that you have to have a tubed out buggy to have any fun offroading.

I hate to disagree

No I don't I love to disagree - it makes it fun.
This is coming only from my own personal experience, including the effect on my bank book. I think it's a good idea to decide where you want to end up and then find a good path to get there. I have no problems with the idea of adding a locker in the rear and then go have fun, since you'll probably use it anyway. But, if a guy want's to build a solid trail rig with good lift, tires, lockers etc, it makes more sense to go the SAS route before he ever buys a lift kit. The IFS lift kits are quite expensive and if you go with any 4" kit, you are asking for trouble if you stretch the limits too much. For not a lot of extra money, you can go with a basic SAS and and a rear coil spring lift for not much more than an IFS lift. By basic I mean, Toy rear leafs, plain Jane solid axle with the stock rotors, brakes, etc.
My story is all about how much stuff I threw away realizing it wasn't enough for what I wanted to do. Now if I could only pay attention to my own preaching!

Off my soap box. Flame suit on!

Mad Chemist · 02-13-2004, 04:16 PM

I agree with what your saying Gibby. To restate/rephrase my earlier statement- if you can test the waters without potentially wasting too much money in the process, then that's what I'd push for. To take a daily driver all the way to SAS without any intermediate steps is a pretty big leap. I just see people spending alot of time on yotatech and other boards and getting all hyped up with the idea that theyhave to have SA vehicle to be "hard core" without really knowing what their vehicle can do. Its one thing if the person is an experienced wheeler, but I get the impression alot of guys just get sucked into the hype of SAS without realizing they might be happy with just wheeling what they have.

I would have to disagree about the cost of a real basic lift compared to SAS, particularly for 3rd gen 4runners. 800 bucks for new coils and a pair of SAWS is a whole lot cheaper than a solid axle swap. If you go with spacers in the front instead of SAWS, it'd even be cheaper. Hell, if you're main goal was increased ground clearance, get a cheap body lift and you could run 33's. 95% of the vehicles on Yotatech have got 3 inches of lift top, probably 5% of that 95% seriously push the limits of their vehicle, and 2% of that 5% of that 95% could really justify doing a SAS. Its late on a friday afternoon, but if you do the math, you'd see a pretty small number of people that really "need" a SAS. I think my guesses are pretty close, based on a couple thousand yotatech members, and all of 2? SAS'ed third gens....

upndair · 02-13-2004, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mad Chemist

I would have to disagree about the cost of a real basic lift compared to SAS, particularly for 3rd gen 4runners. 800 bucks for new coils and a pair of SAWS is a whole lot cheaper than a solid axle swap. If you go with spacers in the front instead of SAWS, it'd even be cheaper.

I was quoting a basic SAS vs an IFS lift. You can pick up an SAS kit for about $150 with the brackets that you need. You can pick up an 82 complete front end for about $250 and a set of used Toyota rear leafs for about $50. You may or may not need a driveline change - probably not at 3". Now I'm talking about 2nd gen. I know nothing about 3rd gen. Add a simple cross over steering for $250 more and you've got an SAS for under $1000. It's a little more than an IFS lift, but the performance certainly will exceed an IFS lift AND, you don't throw the IFS lift away next summer.

I agree that a well designed IFS truck with lockers, great tires and a good driver can do just about anything the pacific northwest has to offer - if they have a winch

If they want to build a higher end, more durable trail rig, SAS is the way to go. WATRD has gone through the same stuff. We all agree that learning to drive with a more stock rig, and growing the rig as your ability grows is the ideal way to go.

We do see this all over the boards - how should I do my build up? I have $1000 for the first stage, where should I spend my money? Tires, lift, locker - what should I do first? Recongnize any of these subjects??

There still isn't a single answer to this question. I personally like to see people ask the question so that those in the know can throw in their two cents and help someone make a more informed decision - even if it's not the one we would have chosen. I get tired of the Pirate and SNORT guys telling everyone to search, search, search. Sure, search is good, but it's a lot more fun to work your own thread and get the answers to your questions, rather than someone elses. That was a different soapbox, but even though I post there as well, that really bugs me. Sometimes there are way past the point of rude.:pig:

WATRD · 02-13-2004, 04:48 PM

I am really torn on this. I agree with points that both of you make. I do think that there are a lot of folks running around with SAS stars in their eyes who haven't even touched the abilities of their IFS. But, at the same time I understand cutting to the chase and SASing out of the gate instead of spending a zillion dollars along the way.

I went the gradual route, building the IFS up until it let me down, then building it up again. Five different lift combos in all. That's a lot of cast off parts. But, along the way, I learned at each stage what my rig was capable of and what it's weaknesses were. I also learned a lot about the rig by doing the work myself.

Once it became time to SAS, I knew pretty much every bolt in my suspension, so I had a pretty good understanding of what needed to change to accomodate the swap.

If I had it to do again, knowing what I know now, I would probably cut out the intermediate steps, but I am glad, for the most part, that I did it the way I did to get the knowledge I have.

My personal peeve is a bit of a tangent from the topic, but is related. It's folks who don't even come close to pushing their IFS and don't have a clue how the parts come together, but are going to pay a shop to do an SAS for them. I pity them when they are out with their newly SAS'd rig and something breaks. Odds are good they won't have any better understanding of the SA than they did the IFS, but it will get them a lot further in before it breaks. I worry when someone who couldn't change an IFS half shaft on their own, suddenly gets the SAS bug. I am not implying that everyone must do their own swap, even though I think that would be preferred, but you should at least have a really solid understanding of how it works before you make that step.

upndair · 02-13-2004, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by WATRD
My personal peeve is a bit of a tangent from the topic, but is related. It's folks who don't even come close to pushing their IFS and don't have a clue how the parts come together, but are going to pay a shop to do an SAS for them. I pity them when they are out with their newly SAS'd rig and something breaks. Odds are good they won't have any better understanding of the SA than they did the IFS, but it will get them a lot further in before it breaks. I worry when someone who couldn't change an IFS half shaft on their own, suddenly gets the SAS bug. I am not implying that everyone must do their own swap, even though I think that would be preferred, but you should at least have a really solid understanding of how it works before you make that step.

I did fall guilty to part of this peeve. When I stated the Dana 60 project, I had S&N do all the axle disassembly, modification and reassemble. I don't have a clue how one of these things comes apart - but I honestly hope to never need to! I know the basics pretty well on all this stuff, but the inner workings of my existing axle - I have to defer to Markus if anything needs fixed!

Mad Chemist · 02-14-2004, 08:16 AM

Wow.....I think we seriously hijacked this thread, but I hope he's learning something in the process. Anyways, good posting guys. There's certainly not one "right" way to go about this, certainly there are plenty of unsafe wrong ways.

upndair · 02-14-2004, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mad Chemist

Wow.....I think we seriously hijacked this thread, but I hope he's learning something in the process. Anyways, good posting guys. There's certainly not one "right" way to go about this, certainly there are plenty of unsafe wrong ways.

Yeah, sorry bout that Ozfan. Even though it was a bit of a tangent, it still is related to your question - kinda

AnotherTacoGuy · 02-17-2004, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WATRD

...Odds are good they won't have any better understanding of the SA than they did the IFS, but it will get them a lot further in before it breaks. I worry when someone who couldn't change an IFS half shaft on their own, suddenly gets the SAS bug. I am not implying that everyone must do their own swap, even though I think that would be preferred, but you should at least have a really solid understanding of how it works before you make that step.

I feel much the same way. I am becoming more and more familiar with the IFS, but I am far more comfortable with the workings of the solid axle. I was reading the fourwheeling rags like Four Wheeler and Petersen's long before I even had a driver's license, and gained some general knowledge about drivetrain and suspension systems, among numerous other things.

I bought a set of 1-ton GM axles for my old GMC project, having researched the necessary equipment for running the larger tires (40") under a somewhat heavy fullsize truck (Sierra Classic 6.2 diesel) in all-around offroad situations, and deciding to build it as close to the right way that I could manage.
I tore into those axles, knew exactly what each part that I was looking at was called and what function it served, and I dissambled the units from a complete state to just the housings.
Even before I tore into my Ford HP-44, I pretty much exactly knew what I needed to modify or replace to make the axle work for a Tacoma solid axle swap.

I have read ever little tidbit of information on TTORA and other sites about what suspension, steering, and other setups will work best for my desired goal.

I was hellbent on buying a Fabtech bracket-style lift, some coilovers, and running 35s or larger on IFS. After adding up all the required basic parts, plus the added luxuries like heavy duty half-shafts and what-not else, into an Excel spreadsheet, I quickly realized that I was entering the price range of a somewhat basic SAS. I then remembered the axles that I had sitting around, restored and waiting for guts, and how much better they would handle 35" and larger tires. I am now convinced that with my D44 being free, and having a couple of fabricator friends who can make spring hangers and shackles etc., I may be able to spend the same amount or LESS and have a more capable and durable truck.

Anywho, those are my thoughts, however simple or (hopefully) complex they may be. I know what I am getting into, I am fully aware, but I also know what ends I seek and exactly what means I need to get there.

Good luck to all, regardless of their project or goal!

Joe · 02-22-2004, 09:14 AM

Check this thread out that's currently being talked about on Pirate 4X4.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=224952

02-06-2004, 02:35 PM	#29 (permalink)
ozzfan1JC Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Alabama Posts: 26	Thanx... I was wondering about that. See, I have just graduated from a 2wd Taco to this..... 4WD's are not my area of expertise. My brother's Taco has open diff's. One main reason I wanted to SAS my runner....I love flex.....I love to crawl.... But I might just take the advice and lock-up quick... I don't really have the money now for ARB's, so what kind of locker's would you recommend? Front and rear? My truck is 5-speed, so I think that helps with the offroading. I was actually thinking of the 4.7 transfer gears, but I need help elsewhere first. Maybe the lockers are my route out... Thanx a bunch for the info.... Josh

02-06-2004, 02:42 PM	#30 (permalink)
upndair Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Milton, WA Posts: 1,117	Where to start is one of the most challenging questions. My answer says that you also have to look at where you want to finish. Tires, Gears and lockers tend to be the typical first place to go. Base your gear choice on the FINAL tire size you plan to go to. With your rig, 5.29 gears is probably optimal if you plan on going 35s or larger. You can do lock-rites fairly inexpensively and they'll work even when you change gears. They are a cheap locker, but most guys like them. They're a little weak for the larger tires... Good aggressive tires, lock-rites and then gears. The dual t-case is an amazing option, but you're getting into some serious bucks by that point. __________________ Gibby 1994 4Runnner 6" lift: Leaf spring conversion rear, SAS front. 1180 Ramp score. DANA 60s with ARB lockers 39x13.50 IROKs SBC 350, NP203 - NP205 Allpro bumpers and rock sliders. www.faithwheelers.com

02-07-2004, 08:44 PM	#32 (permalink)
Robinhood150 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wandering around Phoenix Posts: 6,043	Standard operating procedure for 3rd gens is to lift ~2-3inches with spacers $, OME suspension lift $$, or sway a away suspension lift $$$$, and throw on 33in tires and rock sliders. At this point you'll be just as capable as the tacoma. Now, you have decide if you want to lock front and rear, or just rear. Do your research on selectable lockers Vs auto lockers, auto lockers have some quirks (especially in the front). Keep in mind it's not absolutely necessary to regear with 33s, it's still driveable. I think you'll be surprized at what you can do with just a rear locker. You can get dual transfer cases once you learn the limits of your truck. __________________ Steve. '93 4Runner V6 Auto 4x4 Robinhood's Lair. \|\| Gettin' Off 4wd Club member Lots for sale:5.29 ARB IFS third member... Click Sierra Club policy: [A reason to close trails] ...Physical soil damage, often readily visible, resulting in: a. Erosion, causing soil loss and damage to stream banks, streams, and fish habitat... Lesson...Stay on the TRAIL!

02-08-2004, 07:39 AM	#33 (permalink)
data Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arkansas Posts: 1,915	ozzfan1JC, all I have to say is.... http://www.marlincrawler.com/ __________________ 98 Limited 4x4, Rockstomper skid, Rockware Front bumper, Warn HS9500i, 1" RB BL, Tundra coils front & OME HD rear, Nuke quick discos, diff drop'd, 305/70/16 Baja Claws, Electric Locker, couple of battle scars, but nothing major :)

02-13-2004, 03:23 PM	#36 (permalink)
Mad Chemist Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 2,878	I find myself posting this about once every couple of weeks..... I keep seeing posts by people wanting to build a competent offroad vehicle, and automatically assume that they need a solid axle up front. They decide this without ever really exploring the ability of their IFS vehicle. Why spend all the time and money to do a SAS, and realize that you'd be just as happy with a rear locker? If you've got the money and know-how or know-who (someone thats going to help you), go for it. However, this is what I'd suggest. Spend a little bit of money and throw a locker in the rear of your vehicle. This is something you'd likely do anyways even if you did a SAS. From my (limited) experience, the times I've seen people not be able to get through particular obstacles has been due to 1) lack of traction (get a locker) and 2) not enough ground clearance (get a lift). Wheel with a locker in the rear for 6 months, and if you're still aching for better articulation and are getting left in the dust by your friends, go nuts and get a SAS. I'm all for making incremental changes and building up your skills in the process, instead of going on one or two runs and deciding that you have to have a tubed out buggy to have any fun offroading. __________________ -David '98 4Runner: SAW/OME lift, TJM bumper, Warn M8000 winch, Hayden tranny cooler, Trail Carnage front and belly skid plates, PIAA fogs, Rock lights, 33" MT's on Tech1 Rockcrawler rims, Lars sway bar discos, Sonoran bumpstops and rear bumper, RB 1" body lift, Daystar front bumpstops '73 FJ40: 327 SBC, York, Dual Batteries, custom tire carrier, Corbeau Baja SS bucket seats, Bestop top. TLCA#14428 Last edited by Mad Chemist; 02-13-2004 at 03:24 PM.

02-08-2004, 02:50 PM	#34 (permalink)
ozzfan1JC Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Alabama Posts: 26	Well first lemme say my mods. I first installed a revtek spacer lift in the front, and OME lift coils in the back. Now my problem is wanting to keep my front-end from turning all the time, but that's another issue. I have new model Tundra wheels, and 285/75R16 Remington Mud Brutes as rolling stock. No scrubbing until almost full flex in the rear, with no sway-bar. I am looking into lockers now. If any more advice.......just say.... Thanx people....Keep the info coming....

02-13-2004, 03:28 PM	#37 (permalink)
WATRD Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 5,109	__________________ -Rob Slightly Modified 2001 Tacoma - WATRD.COM WATTORA is becoming NWToys! Tread Lightly! certified Tread Trainer Search 100+ Toyota tech sites, including this one: Toyota Tech Search

02-13-2004, 04:16 PM	#39 (permalink)
Mad Chemist Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 2,878	I agree with what your saying Gibby. To restate/rephrase my earlier statement- if you can test the waters without potentially wasting too much money in the process, then that's what I'd push for. To take a daily driver all the way to SAS without any intermediate steps is a pretty big leap. I just see people spending alot of time on yotatech and other boards and getting all hyped up with the idea that theyhave to have SA vehicle to be "hard core" without really knowing what their vehicle can do. Its one thing if the person is an experienced wheeler, but I get the impression alot of guys just get sucked into the hype of SAS without realizing they might be happy with just wheeling what they have. I would have to disagree about the cost of a real basic lift compared to SAS, particularly for 3rd gen 4runners. 800 bucks for new coils and a pair of SAWS is a whole lot cheaper than a solid axle swap. If you go with spacers in the front instead of SAWS, it'd even be cheaper. Hell, if you're main goal was increased ground clearance, get a cheap body lift and you could run 33's. 95% of the vehicles on Yotatech have got 3 inches of lift top, probably 5% of that 95% seriously push the limits of their vehicle, and 2% of that 5% of that 95% could really justify doing a SAS. Its late on a friday afternoon, but if you do the math, you'd see a pretty small number of people that really "need" a SAS. I think my guesses are pretty close, based on a couple thousand yotatech members, and all of 2? SAS'ed third gens.... __________________ -David '98 4Runner: SAW/OME lift, TJM bumper, Warn M8000 winch, Hayden tranny cooler, Trail Carnage front and belly skid plates, PIAA fogs, Rock lights, 33" MT's on Tech1 Rockcrawler rims, Lars sway bar discos, Sonoran bumpstops and rear bumper, RB 1" body lift, Daystar front bumpstops '73 FJ40: 327 SBC, York, Dual Batteries, custom tire carrier, Corbeau Baja SS bucket seats, Bestop top. TLCA#14428 Last edited by Mad Chemist; 02-13-2004 at 04:25 PM.

02-13-2004, 04:48 PM	#41 (permalink)
WATRD Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 5,109	I am really torn on this. I agree with points that both of you make. I do think that there are a lot of folks running around with SAS stars in their eyes who haven't even touched the abilities of their IFS. But, at the same time I understand cutting to the chase and SASing out of the gate instead of spending a zillion dollars along the way. I went the gradual route, building the IFS up until it let me down, then building it up again. Five different lift combos in all. That's a lot of cast off parts. But, along the way, I learned at each stage what my rig was capable of and what it's weaknesses were. I also learned a lot about the rig by doing the work myself. Once it became time to SAS, I knew pretty much every bolt in my suspension, so I had a pretty good understanding of what needed to change to accomodate the swap. If I had it to do again, knowing what I know now, I would probably cut out the intermediate steps, but I am glad, for the most part, that I did it the way I did to get the knowledge I have. My personal peeve is a bit of a tangent from the topic, but is related. It's folks who don't even come close to pushing their IFS and don't have a clue how the parts come together, but are going to pay a shop to do an SAS for them. I pity them when they are out with their newly SAS'd rig and something breaks. Odds are good they won't have any better understanding of the SA than they did the IFS, but it will get them a lot further in before it breaks. I worry when someone who couldn't change an IFS half shaft on their own, suddenly gets the SAS bug. I am not implying that everyone must do their own swap, even though I think that would be preferred, but you should at least have a really solid understanding of how it works before you make that step. __________________ -Rob Slightly Modified 2001 Tacoma - WATRD.COM WATTORA is becoming NWToys! Tread Lightly! certified Tread Trainer Search 100+ Toyota tech sites, including this one: Toyota Tech Search

02-14-2004, 08:16 AM	#43 (permalink)
Mad Chemist Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 2,878	Wow.....I think we seriously hijacked this thread, but I hope he's learning something in the process. Anyways, good posting guys. There's certainly not one "right" way to go about this, certainly there are plenty of unsafe wrong ways. __________________ -David '98 4Runner: SAW/OME lift, TJM bumper, Warn M8000 winch, Hayden tranny cooler, Trail Carnage front and belly skid plates, PIAA fogs, Rock lights, 33" MT's on Tech1 Rockcrawler rims, Lars sway bar discos, Sonoran bumpstops and rear bumper, RB 1" body lift, Daystar front bumpstops '73 FJ40: 327 SBC, York, Dual Batteries, custom tire carrier, Corbeau Baja SS bucket seats, Bestop top. TLCA#14428

02-22-2004, 09:14 AM	#46 (permalink)
Joe Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 264	Check this thread out that's currently being talked about on Pirate 4X4. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=224952

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